DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Laila

The set consists of: Knitted hat and poncho with cables and rib. Sizes S – XXXL. The set is worked in DROPS Nepal.

DROPS 182-18
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-261
Yarn group C or A + A
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For the complete set there will be enough with approx. 400-450-500 g DROPS Nepal.
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HAT:
Sizes: S/M – M/L
Fits head size: 54/56 - 56/58
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g for both sizes in color 8783, forget-me-not.

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.
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PONCHO:
Sizes: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Circumference at top: 73-92-101 cm / 28 3/4"-36 1/4"-39 3/4''
Height: 42-44-46 cm / 16½"-17 1/4"-18"
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-350-400 g color 8783, forget-me-not.

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3
Poncho: See diagrams A.1, A.2, A.4 and A.5
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
INCREASE TIP (for poncho):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn over twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for poncho):
Decrease as follows at the end of the section with stockinette stitch:
Work until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 stitches together.
Decrease as follows at the beginning of the section with stockinette stitch:
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch over.
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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up.
Cast on 88-92 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and Nepal. Knit 1 round, then work as follows: * Purl 1-2, work PATTERN according to diagram A.1 (= 21 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 4 times. When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height, work as follows: * Purl 1-2, A.2 (= 21 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 4 times. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.2 has been completed 3 times in height work as follows: * Purl 1-2, A.3 (= 21 stitches) *, work from *-* 4 times. When A.3 has been completed 1 time in height, there are 32-36 stitches on the round. Work all stitches together, 2 and 2 = 16-18 stitches. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

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PONCHO:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up.
Cast on 296-320-344 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and Nepal. Knit 1 round, then work as follows: * Purl 1, A.1 (= 21 stitches), purl 1, rib (knit 3 /purl 3) over the next 48-54-60 stitches, knit 3 *, work from *-* 3 more times. Work A.1 1 time in height, then change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and continue working as follows: * Purl 1, A.2 (= 21 stitches), purl 1, stockinette stitch over the next 51-57-63 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 5 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 46-52-58 stitches stockinette stitch) *, work from *-* 3 more times = 276-300-324 stitches. Repeat A.2 upwards. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' decrease 1 stitch in each side of each section of stockinette stitch (= 8 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 3 cm / 1'' a total of 12 times. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures approx. 16-18-20 cm / 6 1/4"-7"-8'' (adjust after a complete repeat of A.2) continue by working A.4 over all A.2, continue with purl 1 in each side of A.4 and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches. When A.4 has been completed 1 time in height (the decreases in stockinette stitch are now finished) there are 124-148-172 stitches on the round. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Continue as follows: * Purl 1, A.5 (= 7 stitches), purl 1, rib (knit 2 / purl 2) over the next 20-26-32 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-2-0 stitches – read INCREASE TIP, knit 2 *, work from *-* 3 more times = 124-156-172 stitches. Continue with rib and A.5 until A.5 has been worked 1 time in height, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The piece measures approx. 42-44-46 cm / 16½"-17 1/4"-18''.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 stitches together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Gitte wrote:

Hvad betyder det når der i opskriften f.eks. står - Strik A.1 1 gang i højden eller Når A.4 er strikket 1 gang i højden? Hvad menes med højden? På forhånd tak.

12.11.2023 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gitte. Ta en titt på diagrammene. Diagram A.1 består av 21 masker (i bredden) og 5 pinner/rader i høyden. Når det i en oppskrift står at man skal strikke et diagram 1 gang i høyden, betyr det at man strikker diagrammet 1 gang. Ofte vil man gjenta diagrammet og da kan det f.eks står: Strikk diagram A.1 3 ganger i høyden, da skal man strikke 15 pinner/rader av A.1. mvh DROPS Design

13.11.2023 - 14:24

country flag Alessandra Manciocchi wrote:

È possibile avere il diagramma A.2 per essere fatto in top down?

10.10.2023 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Alessandra, questo modello è stato progettato per essere lavorato dal basso verso l'alto. Buon lavoro!

14.10.2023 - 23:40

country flag Mariarosaria Bello wrote:

Buongiorno nella precedente domanda intendevo i buchi del diagramma A2 e A4 sul mio lavoro non si vedono, dalle spiegazioni ho capito che i gettati dei diagrammi A2 e A4 sono da lavorare a diritto ritorto sbaglio?

03.10.2022 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mariarosaria, i diagrammi mostrano tutti i ferri del lavoro e nei ferri pari si lavora tutto a diritto. Buon lavoro!

03.10.2022 - 16:06

country flag Mariarosaria Bello wrote:

Buongiorno perché quando lavoro i gettati a diritto ritorto i miei buchetti non sono così grandi come nella foto? Grazie

01.10.2022 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Mariarosaria, i buchi che vede nella foto sono dovuti ai gettati lavorati nei motivi A.2 e A.4. Gli altri gettati sono aumenti invisibiki, quindi è corretto che non si vedano. Buon lavoro!

01.10.2022 - 14:20

country flag Mariarosaria Bello wrote:

Cosa vuol dire lavorare A1 una volta un altezza?

23.09.2022 - 14:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariarosaria, significa che deve lavorare tutti i ferri del diagramma A.1. Buon lavoro!

27.09.2022 - 21:58

country flag Tiziana wrote:

Buongiorno Ho iniziato il lavoro con 344 maglie...fatto il primo giro a diritto e nel secondo mi dice di fare 1 rovescio,A1,1 rovescio ,coste 3 diritte e 3 rovesci per le 60 maglie successive, 3 diritti per 3 volte ...il totale e di 255 maglie ...le altre 89 come devo farle ??? Grazie

26.10.2021 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Tiziana, deve ripetere tutta la parte tra gli asterischi 3 volte, non solo le ultime 3 maglie. Buon lavoro!

26.10.2021 - 19:38

country flag Christiane wrote:

Kan het zijn dat er in de poncho maar drie motieven zijn

01.02.2021 - 17:46

country flag Nina wrote:

Can this poncho be done with an button opening in the front for ease of taking on and off?

26.10.2020 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nina, probably but we are unfortunately not able to adjust each pattern to each individual request - do not hesitate to contact your yarn store - even per mail or telephone- for any further individual assistance. Happy knitting!

27.10.2020 - 13:47

country flag Enza wrote:

Quando il lavoro misura 6 cm diminuire 1 maglia a ogni lato di ogni sezione a maglia rasata (= 8 diminuzioni) – leggere il SUGGERIMENTO PER LE DIMINUZIONI. Diminuire ogni 3 cm per un totale di 12 volte?Che vuol dire?

30.08.2020 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Enza. Ci sono 4 gruppi con 46-52-58(a seconda della taglia) maglie a maglia rasata. Deve diminuire 1 maglia all'inizio e alla fine di ognuno di questi gruppi. Per diminuire deve vedere le indicazioni riportate al paragrafo SUGGERIMENTO PER LE DIMINUZIONI, all'inizio delle spiegazioni. Diminuisce così ogni 3 cm per 12 volte. Buon lavoro!

31.08.2020 - 14:17

country flag Arantxa wrote:

Soy principiante y no termino de entender tantos diagramas diferentes en relación con la fotografía. Yo he hecho 320 puntos y 4 cm de punto elástico y a partir de ahí he seguido las indicaciones, la primera efectivamente da 320 puntos, pero después no entiendo dice tejer A1. 1 vez en altura, qué significa, 21 puntos (A1) no da un número entero en 320 puntos. Necesito mayor detalle en la explicación. Muchas gracias por su ayuda.

19.02.2020 - 13:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Arantxa. Se trabajan 5 filas del diagrama A.1 una vez ( =una repetición de A.1 en vertical), después se trabaja según las explicaciones del patrón.

29.02.2020 - 23:51