DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Fleetwood

The set consists of: Knitted poncho with cables and lace pattern, worked top down and wrist warmers with cables. Sizes S - XXXL. The set is worked in DROPS Big Merino.

DROPS 184-30
DROPS Design: Pattern no mb-038
Yarn group C
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PONCHO:
Sizes: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-750-800 g colour 06, forget-me-not

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables
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WRIST WARMERS:
Size: One size
Materials:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g colour 06, forget-me-not

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
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PONCHO:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Cast on 132-138-144 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Big Merino. Knit 1 round, then work rib, knit 2 / purl 4, over all stitches. Work rib for 18 cm, then work 1 RIDGE over all stitches – see description above. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Then knit 1 round where you decrease 26-24-22 stitches evenly on round = 106-114-122 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, 1 at the beginning of the round and 1 after 53-57-61 stitches = in the sides. Knit 1-2-3, A.1(= 10 stitches), knit 1-2-3, A.2 (= 29 stitches), knit 1-2-3, A.3 (= 10 stitches), knit 2-4-6, A.1, knit 1-2-3, A.2, knit 1-2-3, A.3, knit 1-2-3. Continue this pattern, at the same time increase 1 stitch on each side of each A.1/A.3 (= 8 stitches increased). Increase by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. Increase every 2nd round 10-14-17 times, then every 4th round 5 times and every 6th round 5 times (in total 20-24-27 times) = 266-306-338 stitches. Change to longer circular needle when necessary. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 35-39-43 cm (measured without the neck) work garter stitch over 6 stitches in each side (= 3 stitches on each side of the marker threads). NOTE! make sure the first row of garter stitch is on a row where you are working pattern in A.2. When you have worked 2 ridges place the first 133-153-169 stitches on a thread for the back piece and continue over the last 133-153-169 stitches on the needle (= front piece). You are now working back and forth on the needle. Continue pattern as before, 3 stitches in each side are now worked in GARTER STITCH – see description above. When you have worked 16 cm from the split, work the knitted stitches in A.1/A.3 together 2 and 2 (= 127-147-163 stitches). Then work 1 ridge over all stitches, on the last row of the ridge, increase 25-29-31 stitches evenly on row = 152-176-194 stitches. Continue by working as follows – from the right side: 3 stitches garter stitch,* knit 2, purl 4 *, repeat from *-* until there are 5 stitches left, knit 2 and work 3 stitches garter stitch. On every 4th row (every other row on the right side) knit over all stitches so that the rib does not tighten. Work rib for 4 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 133-153-169 stitches on the thread back on the needle and work as for front piece.
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WRIST WARMERS:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on 42 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and Big Merino. Knit 1 round, then work rib, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, * knit 2, purl 4 *, repeat from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 stitches. Continue this rib until the piece measures 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and continue as follows: A.1 over the first 10 stitches, rib as before over the remaining 32 stitches. Continue this pattern until the piece measures 18 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib as follows: Purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, * knit 2, purl 4 *, repeat from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 stitches. Work rib for 4 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the strands well.

Work one more wrist warmer in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.04.2018
Number of sts between the marker threads in each side has been corrected.
Diagram A.1 has been corrected

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 stitches together
symbols = slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Karen Owen wrote:

I am reading through the drops design, patt no mb-038, Fleetwood and don't understand what is meant by ' k1-2-3 '? I understand the charts for the pattern after this. I've tried YouTube which doesn't really help. Could you please explain it to me? Thanks

03.03.2024 - 23:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, the numbers in the sequence are for each size. In the smallest size, you k1, in the medium size, k2; in the largest size, k3. For more information on how to follow our patterns, please read the following lesson: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=79&cid=19. Happy knitting!

03.03.2024 - 23:54

country flag Malti Oberoi wrote:

I am makeing Fleetwood and got stuck in A2 design first row. so after first 14 stiches is it p 1 yarn forward p1 then p1 again yarn forward and p1. after that next 14 stiches?

29.02.2024 - 01:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Oberoi, after the first 14 sts, work: 1 yarn over, purl 1, 1 yarn over, then work the last 14 sts as shown in diagram. Happy knitting!

29.02.2024 - 08:32

country flag Maria wrote:

Co oznacza przerabiać ściegiem francuskim ponad 6 oczkami

09.03.2023 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Mario, to znaczy, że w robótce przerabianej w tę i z powrotem musisz przerabiać te 6 konkretnych oczek w każdym rzędzie na prawo (jeżeli robótka jest wykonywana na okrągło to w jednym okrążeniu przerabiasz te oczka na prawo, a w kolejnym na lewo, itd.). Pozdrawiamy!

10.03.2023 - 08:21

country flag Pascale BABIN wrote:

Re-bonjour, J'ai refais un échantillon avec des aiguilles n° 6 (même nombre de mailles et de rangs) et j'arrive à 10 cm x 10 cm. J'aimerais faire un poncho un peu plus long. Pouvez-vous m'indiquer à quel endroit des explications je dois faire plus de rangs ? Je vous remercie. Pascale

29.09.2022 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Babin, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande; vous pourrez probablement rallonger la partie tricotée en allers et retours pour chaque côté (en fonction de ce que vous souhaitez); n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin, ils pourront vous aider, même par mai ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

30.09.2022 - 08:08

country flag Pascaline DUBS wrote:

Je veux bien aussi le nombre de pelotes nécessaires pour les manchettes, s'il vous plaît

16.01.2022 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dubs, vous trouverez les quantités requises pour chaque taille dans l'en-tête, autrement dit, il vous faut ici 100 g (taille unique) DROPS Big Merino /50 g la pelote = 2 pelotes Big Merino. Bon tricot!

17.01.2022 - 09:18

country flag Pascaline wrote:

Bonjour Vous serait il possible de préciser le nombre de pelotes nécessaires par taille, s'il vous plaît ?

16.01.2022 - 18:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, S/M: 13 pelotes ; L/XL: 15 pelotes; XXL/XXXL: 16 pelotes. Bon tricot!

16.01.2022 - 20:43

country flag Enrica wrote:

Buongiorno, sono riuscita a fare il pocho come modello vs. ma, il lavoro a buchi vicino alle trecce mi viene male, chiedevo se è possibile aumentare in altro modo senza i buchi. Grazie e buona giornata.

24.11.2021 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Enrica, gli aumenti sono lavorati con gettati lavorati a ritorto sul ferro successivo. Se preferisce può utilizzare un altro tipo di aumento. Buon lavoro!

26.11.2021 - 00:24

country flag Nicoletta wrote:

Buonasera, per il poncho non riesco a capire il seguente passaggio verso la fine del lavoro: 'Poi lavorare 1 costa su tutte le maglie, sull’ultimo ferro della costa, aumentare 25-29-31 maglie in modo uniforme sul ferro'. Ho fatto il giro a dritto lavorando A.1/A.3 insieme 2 a 2 a diritto. Adesso devo fare un giro a rovescio o lavoro sempre a dritto aumentando le maglie (con gettato?). Grazie mille Nicoletta

06.07.2021 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nicoletta, lavorare "1 costa" significa lavorare 2 ferri/giri a maglia legaccio, per cui deve lavorare un giro a diritto aumentando le maglie come indicato e poi un giro a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

07.07.2021 - 18:55

country flag Zayda Zarza wrote:

Me encantó este modelo, el patrón es muy claro y exacto, tiene su grado de dificultad pero queda hermoso, gracias por compartir su conocimiento, espero seguir haciendo más modelos de su sitio. Me gustaría compartir una foto de mi capa, pero no sé donde pueda hacerlo.

03.03.2021 - 03:09

country flag Karina Engel wrote:

Hvorfor er der valgmulighed/str.indikation både ift. antal masker der skal slåes op, ind- og udtagning + på diagrammet m.m når det er en onesize ?

16.02.2020 - 12:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karina, Vi har 3 størrelser i Poncoen men kun en i pulsvarmerne. God fornøjelse!

18.02.2020 - 10:53