DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Allie Woof the Dog

Knitted toy dog in garter stitch and moss stitch, with collar. The piece is worked in DROPS Big Merino.

DROPS Children 30-24
DROPS Design: Pattern no mb-001-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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Measurements: Length: approx. 41 cm (without tail). Circumference: approx. 29 cm (without padding).
Materials:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g colour 06, forget-me-not
50 g colour 05, mocca
+ left-overs for flower and eyes in each of the following colours:
01 off white, 04 black, 10 amethyst, 11 plum

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM – for flowers.

ACCESSORIES: Padding to fill.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn over twisted to prevent hole.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP:
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
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DOG:
All parts are worked back and forth on needle and sewn together to finish.

MUZZLE AND HEAD:
Cast on 8 stitches with needle size 4.5 mm and forget-me-not and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with knit 1 = 15 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 1, purl 13 (yarn overs purled twisted to prevent holes), knit 1.
ROW 3 (= right side): * Knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 14 times and finish with knit 1 = 29 stitches.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit 1, purl 27 (yarn overs purled twisted to prevent holes), knit 1.
ROW 5 (= right side): Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 *, work from *-* a total of 13 times, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 44 stitches.
Continue by working stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, in each side until the muzzle measures approx. 4 cm from the cast-on edge.
Insert 2 markers in the piece, without working the stitches, as follows: The first marker is inserted after the first 19 stitches on the row, 2nd marker inserted after the next 6 stitches on the row (after the last marker, there are 19 stitches on the row).
Continue working in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 1 stitch before the first marker and 1 stitch after the 2nd marker – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat the increases on the next row from the right side = 48 stitches on the row. Continue with garter stitch until the head measures 11 cm from the cast-on edge. On the next row from the right side decrease 8 stitches evenly on row (knit every 5th and 6th stitch together) = 40 stitches. Knit 5 rows (the last row is from the wrong side). Continue by working the body as described below (without cutting the strand).

BODY:
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 12 stitches evenly on row (increase 1 stitch after approx. every 3rd stitch) = 52 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch knitted in each side
Continue by working A.1 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When A.1 measures 9 cm (the whole piece measures approx. 22 cm), work A.2 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When A.2 measures 15 cm (the whole piece measures approx. 37 cm), insert 6 marker threads as follows from the right side (do this without working the stitches): First marker thread inserted after the first 10 stitches on the row, then insert the next 5 marker threads with 8 stitches between each (after the last marker thread there are 2 stitches left on the row).
Continue A.2. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch before each marker thread – read DECREASE TIP (= 6 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 5 times = 22 stitches. On the next row from the right side knit all stitches together, 2 and 2 = 11 stitches left on needle. The dog measures approx. 41 cm from the cast-on edge. Continue by working tail as described below (without cutting the strand).

TAIL:
Work garter stitch back and forth over the 11 stitches until the tail measures approx. 8 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch at the end of every row by knitting the last 2 stitches together until there are 4 stitches left on the needle (the tail measures approx. 11 cm). Cut the strand, pull it through the stitches, tighten and fasten well.
The whole dog measures approx. 52 cm including the tail.

EAR:
Cast on 7 stitches with needle size 4.5 mm and forget-me-not and work garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME after 1 ridge increase 1 stitch in each side on the inside of the 1 edge stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 4 times = 15 stitches. Continue with garter stitch until the ear measures 6 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the row and 1 stitch at the end of the row by knitting the 2 first and 2 last stitches on the row together (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat the decreases when you have worked 3 rows. Then decrease in the same way every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 2 times = 7 stitches left on needle. Cast off. Cut the strand long enough to be able to use it to sew on the ear. Work the other ear in the same way.

LEG:
Cast on 12 stitches with needle size 4.5 mm and forget-me-not.
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, knit 2 *, work from *-* a total of 5 times, 1 yarn over, knit 1 = 18 stitches.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit 1, purl 16 (yarn overs purled twisted to prevent holes), knit 1.
Continue by working A.1 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Cast off when the leg measures approx. 6 cm. Cut the strand long enough to be able to use it to sew on the leg. Tack a strand up and down through the stitches along the cast-on edge at the bottom of the leg, tighten the strand so that the opening is closed and fasten the strand well.
Work one more leg in the same way. Then work 2 more legs in the same way but working A.2 instead of A.1 (= a total of 4 legs, 2 with A.1 and 2 with A.2).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the dog together all the way from the tip of the muzzle, along the body to the end of the tail - sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so that the seam is flat, but leave an opening in the middle underneath to be able to fill with padding.
Fill the dog with padding and sew the opening shut.
Embroider 2 eyes with black in the middle of the head and a nose with mocca at the tip of the muzzle – see photo.
Sew on the ears on each side of the head (there should be approx. 5 cm between the ears on top of the head).
Fill each leg with padding and sew the legs onto the underneath of the body – see photo for positions.

COLLAR AND LEASH:
NOTE: Due to the length of the leash, it should only be made for children over the age of 3 years:
Cast on 160 stitches with needle size 4.5 mm and mocca. Work 3 ridges and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches). Fold the one end double so that you make a small loop (large enough for the hand which will hold the leash) and fasten down with small stitches. Lay the other end around the neck of the dog and fasten with a couple of small stitches to make the collar.

SMALL CROCHET FLOWER:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and plum and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
ROUND 1: * Work 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the ring *, work from *-* a total of 4 times, work 3 chain stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch around the ring = 5 petals. Cut the strand and pull it through the stitch on the hook.
Sew the flower onto the leash as decoration, by the hand loop.

LARGE CROCHET FLOWER:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and off white and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
ROUND 1: Work 1 chain stitch, work 5 double crochets around the ring, change to amethyst and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked at the beginning of the round.
ROUND 2: Work with amethyst in each double crochet from the previous round as follows: 1 double crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch and 1 double crochet, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked at the beginning of the round = 5 petals. Cut the strand and pull it through the stitch on the hook.
Sew the flower onto the leash as decoration by the hand loop. Work one more flower in the same way and fasten to the collar mid front of dog’s neck.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Dorota wrote:

Super przepisy i poradniki Pozdrawiam

26.08.2022 - 10:03

country flag Soledad wrote:

Muchas gracias por compartir su s patrones

05.02.2022 - 02:41

country flag Sylvia Lipnick wrote:

I don't see how to purl the yarn-overs twisted, as the pattern calls for. I've tried it several ways, and each way there are huge holes!

07.11.2021 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sylvia, To purl a yarn over twisted you purl in the back of the loop (the same applies to knitting twisted). Happy knitting!

08.11.2021 - 07:20

country flag June Schrader wrote:

I would love to download this pattern (Allie Woof) plus other animal patterns as I am 80years old and do knitting for as many underpriveliged children as possible Can you help Thankimg you JUNE

05.07.2021 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear June, to download the pattern, click on the "print this pattern" button, then "go to pattern" and then save as PDF. Happy Stitching!

05.07.2021 - 21:42

country flag Sue Burt wrote:

I am trying to purchase several patterns from your website , which i have saved to favs.. I go to Purple sheep yarn site and I am transfered back to our website but can find nowhere to purchase the patterns which are available as Don loads. Please advise, Thank you Sue

26.04.2021 - 13:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Burt, our patterns are free and can only be printed - by choosing a virtual printer, you will also be able to save them as a .pdf file. Happy knitting!

26.04.2021 - 14:44

country flag Vivi wrote:

Good morning, I have abundant Andes yarn left. Can I use them instead of Big Merino? Thank you.

11.10.2020 - 01:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vivi, yes, you can substitute the yarn, however please make a swatch, check your gauge and if they do not match what is given in the pattern, your little dog will be smaller (or bigger. Also, be aware that while the Big Merino is superwash, Andes is not, so it might felt when thrown into a washing machine (or get chewed on). I hope this helps! Happy Crafting!

11.10.2020 - 06:35

country flag Saroj wrote:

I would like to make this pattern in crochet. Would like your help if I can. Can I work this pattern With the seams. Can it be made with velvet yarn., the main body.

19.07.2020 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Saroj, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request - please contact the store where you bought the yarn for any individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

20.07.2020 - 09:55

country flag Sara wrote:

Vad betyder detta "Sätt 2 markörer i arbetet utan att sticka maskorna"? Betyder det att man helt enkelt trär på markören på stickan och flyttar över den varje varv så att den alltid är mellan samma maskor men alltid på det nya varvet? Jag har försökt klura ut varför man behöver dem för Nos & Huvud, men blir inte riktigt klok på det. Man ser ju på nästa varv att man gjort en ökning genom omslag eftersom ökningen inte ser ut som en vanlig rät maska. Tack på förhand! :)

02.03.2020 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ja då sätter du bara markörer i arbetet utan att sticka ett varv när du gör det (det är bara för att nästa förklarade varv i texten ska vara från avigsidan). Markörerna flyttar du bara med upp i kommande varv och du ser i texten att de markerar var du ska göra ökningar på de nästa 2 varven. Lycka till!

03.03.2020 - 14:38

country flag Johanna wrote:

Hallo! Ich wollte diesen tollen Hund stricken, da ein Familienmitglied jetzt schwanger ist. Aber ich denke, dass 50 cm vielleicht ein bisschen zu gross für das Baby wird, auch wenn das Baby 1-2 Jahre alt ist... Könnte ich die Beschreibung einfach halbieren, oder wird das nicht funktionieren? Müsste ich dann auch was anderes beachten, zB dünnere Wolle und Nadeln? Vielen Dank im Voraus!

02.03.2020 - 16:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Johanna, wenn Sie eine dünnere Wolle stricken, dann wird die Maschenprobe unterschiedlich und der Hund kleiner - Siehe FAQ, Maschenprobe hier - Ihr DROPS Laden wird Ihnen gerne weiter helfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.03.2020 - 09:33

country flag Johanna wrote:

Hej! Tänkte sticka denna fina hund då en familjemedlem väntar barn. Tänker att 50 cm blir väldigt stort för en liten bebis, även när bebisen är några år gammalt. Kan man halvera beskrivningen rätt av eller kommer det att bli konstigt? Måste jag tänka på något annat i sådana fall, typ att använda tunnare garn och stickor? Tack så mycket på förhand!

02.03.2020 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Johanna, tycker inte den är för stor ;) Men du kan ju också sticka Arnie the Caterpillar fast lite kortare

03.03.2020 - 15:29