DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Cozy Weekend

Knitted jumper with cables and high collar. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Snow.

DROPS 181-13
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-604
Yarn group E or C + C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
550-600-700-750-800-900 g colour 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group E)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 10 MM – or the size needed to get 9 stitches and 12 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 9 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 10 stitches and 14 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.20€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

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JUMPER:
The jumper is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. The piece is divided when you decrease for the armhole and the back and front piece are finished back and forth separately. Knit up stitches around the armhole for sleeves and continue working back and forth down the sleeve. The collar is worked with short circular needle to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 99-107-115-123-131-143 stitches with circular needle size 9 mm and Snow. Knit 1 round, then work rib in the different sizes as follows:
S-L- XXL-XXXL:
* Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the first 12-16-20-24 stitches, knit 2, work A.1 (= 25 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 * over the remaining 60-72-84-92 stitches.
M-XL:
* Purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the first 16-20 stitches, work A.1 (= 25 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 64-76 stitches and finish with knit 2 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue rib in this way until the piece measures 6 cm. Change to circular needle size 10 mm. Work 0-0-0-0-0-1 stitch stocking stitch, the round now begins here, insert 1 marker thread (the round is now displaced 0-0-0-0-0-1 stitch). The next round is worked as follows: Work stocking stitch over the first 14-16-18-20-22-25 stitches, A.2 (= 25 stitches) over A.1, stocking stitch over the next 14-16-18-20-22-25 stitches, insert 1 marker thread (= front piece), work stocking stitch over the last 46-50-54-58-62-68 stitches.
Continue the pattern upwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm cast off stitches for armhole on the next round as follows (adjust so that the next round is 1st-3rd-5th-7th-9th-11th or 13th round in A.2): Cast off the first 2-2-2-2-2-3 stitches on the round, work the next 49-53-57-61-65-69 stitches as before (= front piece), cast off the next 4-4-4-4-4-6 stitches, work until there are 2-2-2-2-2-3 stitches left, cast off these stitches. Cut the strand. Each part is now finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 42-46-50-54-58-62 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch over all stitches (the first row is worked from the wrong side). When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm from where you cast off stitches for armhole (the piece measures a total of 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm) cast off the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately = 13-15-16-18-19-21 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch and decrease 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 12-14-15-17-18-20 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from where you cast off stitches for armhole (the piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm). Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 49-53-57-61-65-69 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 48-50-50-52-52-54 cm (the first row is worked from the wrong side). Now place stitches on 1 thread for the neck as follows: Work 16-18-19-21-22-24 stitches as before, work the next 17-17-19-19-21-21 stitches as before but decrease 7 stitches evenly over these stitches, then place them on a thread (= 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches on the thread), work the remaining 16-18-19-21-22-24 stitches as before.
Each shoulder is now finished separately. Continue with knit and purl as before over the remaining stitches in A.2 and cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 12-14-15-17-18-20 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, match with the back piece. Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting stitches.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve are worked back and forth, top down. Knit up 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches along the armhole in the outermost stitch/row with circular needles size 10 mm and Snow. Work stocking stitch. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the piece (= 2 stitches decreased) Decrease in this way every 9-7-5-6-5-4 cm a total of 5-6-7-6-7-8 times = 24-24-24-28-28-28 stitches. When the piece measures 45-44-43-41-40-39 cm, change to circular needles size 9 mm and work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2). When the sleeve measures 50-49-48-46-45-44 cm, change to double pointed needles size 10 mm and cast off with knit over all stitches.

NECK:
The piece is worked in the round. Knit up 56-56-60-60-64-64 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread) on short circular needle size 9 mm and Snow. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) for 12 cm. Cast off LOOSELY with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeves, sewing in the outmost loop of outermost stitch.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side. knit from the wrong side
symbols = place 5 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, knit 5 stitches, knit 5 stitches from the cable needle
symbols = place 5 stitches on the cable needle at the back of the piece, knit 5 stitches, knit 5 stitches from the cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Dorothy wrote:

I wish your paterns were more condensed i have to print out so many pages. can they be easier to read love most of your top down patterns

13.04.2023 - 22:18

country flag Anne-Marie Madsen wrote:

Tak for svaret … DET ER LØBELÆNGDEN, jeg ønsker at få svar på. Så jeg kan lære noget mere om at skifte garn.

27.03.2023 - 13:13

country flag Anne-Marie wrote:

Cozy Weekend med Snow gruppe E vil jeg gerne strikke i c+c . Hvordan regner jeg forbruget ud. Er det løbelængde jeg beregner fra. Og når jeg sætter c+c sammen forbliver løbelængden den angivet, fra c, eller bliver den kortere? Bedste hilsner fra Anne-Marie

23.03.2023 - 12:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Marie Til høyre eller under bildet vil du finne en link til: Garnforbrug ved alternativt garn – Brug vores garn-omregner her. Klikk på den og fyll inn informasjon. Velg DROPS Snow (det garnet du vil erstatt) og i f.eks str S er det brukt 550 gram og det strikkes med 1 tråd. Klikk på Finn alternativ. I garngruppe C kommer det opp 8 alternativer (2 tråder) og antall gram du må bruke. mvh DROPS Design

27.03.2023 - 11:46

country flag Maria Paola Gastaldi wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei eseguire il modello lavorando davanti e dietro separatamente il numero delle maglie è lo stesso o devo mettere 46 maglie per il dietro e 53 per il davanti? Grazie

17.09.2021 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Paola, purtroppo in questa sede non possiamo riprogettare il modello per la lavorazione in piano, ma può sicuramente rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

17.09.2021 - 20:04

country flag Jackie Manley wrote:

What is the quantity of wool I need to do this jumper

04.01.2021 - 10:44

country flag Susan Haugaard wrote:

Hej, Har lige læst opskrift igennem, og forstår ikke, at man skal skifte til strømpepinde 10, inden man lukker af? Man strikker jo frem og tilbage på rundpind 9 /10 på ærmet? Hvis jeg kan udgå at købe 4 slags pinde til enkelt trøje.

11.11.2019 - 12:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Susan. Her er det blitt feil oversatt i den danske oppskriften, du kan bruke rundpinne nr 10 til å felle av (du kan også felle av med settp nr 9, bare da husk å felle av løst). mvh DROPS design

11.11.2019 - 15:06

country flag Mimi wrote:

Hi, I am a bit confused about the sleeves. Do I pick up stitches aound the whole armhole, work back and forth and then sew the edges of the sleeves only or do I work them separately back and forth and then sew them on? I am doing the XL size. Thanks

20.05.2019 - 17:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mimi, you pick up the stitches for sleeves along armholes and work back and forth and sew then the first 4 cm of the sleeve to the cast off sts for armholes then sew the sleeve to the wrist edge. Happy knitting!

21.05.2019 - 09:26

country flag Patrycja wrote:

Witam, w jaki sposób zamykać oczka na dekolt w tym wzorze? Czy redukując oczka mam przerobić 2o. razem?

23.02.2019 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Patrycjo! Aby zamknąć oczka na dekolt tyłu, zamykasz 1 raz 1 o. z każdej strony dekoltu - aby zamknąć 1 o. należy przerobić 2 o. razem. Z przodu zaś zamykamy na początku każdego rzędu od strony dekoltu: 1 raz 2 oczka (przerabiając 3 o. razem) i 2 razy 1 oczko (2 o. razem). Powodzenia!

25.02.2019 - 07:18

country flag Renie wrote:

3. At the beginning it should also say that the back piece is only knitted in stocking stitch (that's why there are less stitches than for the front piece with the special). 4. At the beginning of "Front Piece" please say that the cable stitch pattern A.2 requires more stitches (so you prevent another possible confusion). 5. The description of the first round re.: the front piece (when A.2 cable pattern begins) should be directly placed under "Front Piece", it only belongs there.

16.12.2018 - 09:07

country flag Renie wrote:

2. I understand why those quite simple ribs are being made an extra pattern "A.1". But by placing it directly under the main pattern A.2 without a certain note right by the pattern (NOT only in the text, the description) that A.1 is only to be knitted for 6 cm whereas A.2 is to be repeated until the respective piece ends (at the shoulders), this seems to confuse, obviously. Additionally, what about a small space between A.1 and A.2 for better optics? -> 3.

16.12.2018 - 08:43