DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Blueberry Fizz

The set consists of knitted jumper with round yoke, multi-coloured Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. Hat with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. The set is worked in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS 180-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-794
Yarn group A
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There will be enough yarn for the whole set with approx.:
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 6736, navy/purple
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour 3800, old pink
50 g in all sizes in the following colours:
2020, light camel
6309, medium petrol
7233, olive
7238, dark olive
7240, petrol
7323, aqua grey
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JUMPER:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 6736, navy/purple
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour 3800, old pink
50 g in all sizes in following colours:
2020, light camel
6309, medium petrol
7233, olive
7238, dark olive
7240, petrol
7323, aqua grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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HAT:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
50 g in both sizes in following colours:
2020, light camel
3800, old pink
6309, medium petrol
6736 navy/purple
7233, olive
7238, dark olive
7240, petrol
7323, aqua grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM – for rib.
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Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Alpaca 607, 618, 2020, 7139, 2915, 2925, 6309, 2923
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 120 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 16) = 7.5.
In this example, decrease by alternately knitting together every 6th and 7th stitch and every 7th and 8th stitch.
If you are increasing, make 1 yarn over alternately after approx. every 7th and 8th stitch, on the next round work the yarn overs twisted into the pattern so that there are no holes.

ELEVATION (for back of neck in jumper):
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid back. Start from the right side with old pink and knit 8-8-8-9-9-10 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 16-16-16-18-18-20 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 24-24-24-27-27-30 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 32-32-32-36-36-40 stitches. Continue back and forth in this way by working 8-8-8-9-9-10 more stitches each time you turn (remember to tighten the strand when you turn) until you have worked back and forth over a total of 64-64-64-72-72-80 stitches and the last row is from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back.

PATTERN: 
Jumper: See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.
Hat: See diagram A.2.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when you work pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle, top down, change to double pointed needles when necessary.  

NECKLINE:
Cast on 120-124-128-136-140-148 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and old pink. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm knit 1 round where you decrease 16 stitches in all sizes evenly on the round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 104-108-112-120-124-132 stitches. Continue by working the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP!
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 round. For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above. When the elevation has been completed, work A.1 in the round (= 26-27-28-30-31-33 repeats of 4 stitches).
Continue the pattern in this way and at the same time increase on each round marked with an arrow in A.1 as described below – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Arrow-1: Increase 36-40-44-48-52-56 stitches evenly on round = 140-148-156-168-176-188 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 36-38-40-44-48-50 stitches evenly on round = 176-186-196-212-224-238 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 28-34-36-40-48-50 stitches evenly on round = 204-220-232-252-272-288 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 28-34-40-40-44-48 stitches evenly on round = 232-254-272-292-316-336 stitches.
Arrow-5: Increase 26-34-34-38-44-48 stitches evenly on round = 258-288-306-330-360-384 stitches.
Arrow-6: Increase 26-32-34-38-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 284-320-340-368-400-424 stitches.
Arrow-7: Increase 24-28-32-36-40-40 stitches evenly on round = 308-348-372-404-440-464 stitches.
Arrow-8: Increase 20-20-28-28-32-32 stitches evenly on round = 328-368-400-432-472-496 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed in height, the piece measures approx. 24-24-24-28-28-28 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. Continue with stocking stitch and navy/purple until the piece measures 24-25-26-28-30-32 cm from the cast-on edge mid front (if the knitting tension is right in height, this measurement is reached in S and XL when A.1 has been completed).
The next round is worked as follows: Knit 49-54-58-64-71-77 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 67-77-85-89-95-95 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), knit the next 97-107-115-127-141-153 stitches (= front piece), place the next 67-77-85-89-95-95 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve) and knit the remaining 48-53-57-63-70-76 stitches (= ½ back piece). Cut the strand.
Body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 210-230-250-274-306-334 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve in each side. Start the round by one of the marker threads and work stocking stitch in the round with navy/purple. When the piece measures 1-1-2-2-2-2 cm from the separation, increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 8th round (approx. every 2½ cm) to finished length (if the knitting tension is right in height, increase 13 times in each side).
When the piece measures 32-33-34-34-34-34 cm from the separation, there are approx. 262-282-302-326-358-386 stitches on the needle. Work 4 ridges in the round over all stitches. Then cast off with knit, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off (the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 67-77-85-89-95-95 stitches from the thread in one side of the piece on short circular needle size 3 mm, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve with navy/purple = 75-85-95-99-107-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches under the sleeve. Start the round here and work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm from the separation, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 2½-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 12-16-19-20-23-23 times = 51-53-57-59-61-63 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 34-34-33-32-30-28 cm from the separation (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 17-19-19-21-19-21 stitches evenly on round = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round (= knit 2 /purl 2). When the rib measures 8 cm (or desired length) cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you cast off (yarn overs cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 42-42-41-40-38-36 cm from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Cast on 128-136 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 and old pink. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 /purl 2). When the rib measures 4 cm change to circular needle size 3 mm. Work 2-4 rounds stocking stitch – AT THE SAME TIME on the first round, increase 2-4 stitches evenly on round = 130-140 stitches. Continue by working A.2 (= 13-14 repeats of 10 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When you have worked 5 rounds in A.2 there are 156-168 stitches on the needle. On the round marked with arrow-9 in A.2 decrease 12-16 stitches evenly on round – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 144-152 stitches. Continue A.2 (= 18-19 repeats of 8 stitches). When A.2 has been completed there are 36-38 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round with navy/purple where all the stitches are knitted together 2 and 2 = 18-19 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 24-25 cm top down.

Diagram

symbols = olive
symbols = dark olive
symbols = light camel
symbols = aqua grey
symbols = medium petrol
symbols = navy/purple
symbols = petrol
symbols = old pink
symbols = increase/decrease round
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to prevent a hole
symbols = Knit 2 together with navy/purple
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Susan wrote:

Someone is selling this and others of your patterns on Etsy as heritage patterns

01.03.2024 - 11:53

country flag Bernike Pasveer wrote:

De ikoontjes in het telpatroon komen niet helemaal overeen met de uitleg ervan, in het bijzonder vind ik het tekentje in o.a. de eerste twee naalden van A1 (maten s.m.l) niet terug in de uitleg. Het lijkt op het sterretje (dat geel-groen moet zijn), maar het is niet hetzelfde. Groet, Bernike

11.12.2023 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bernike,

Het is geel/groen, maar het lijkt inderdaad een beetje anders doordat de symbooltjes in het telpatroon tegen elkaar aan zitten.

13.12.2023 - 21:19

country flag Jackie Harmer wrote:

I’m disappointed to see that most of the colours stated in the pattern are no longer available and am considering using Baby Merino wool. I have a problem with some wools causing itching to my skin. I know that Merino is usually ok. Is Alpaca as kind to the skin as Merino or might it be slightly more itchy?

01.10.2023 - 12:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Harmer, please feel free to contact your DROPS store to check with them all colours - they will be able also to provide you any assistance for choosing the best matching yarn. Happy knitting!

02.10.2023 - 10:29

country flag Neil Chris wrote:

J'aimerais faire le pull avec les couleurs orangées/bleu de l'échantillon que vous montrez à la fin des modèles. Pouvez vous me donnez les couleurs que vous avez employées, je trouves ce là très joli

24.02.2023 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chris, tout à fait, ce sont les couleurs DROPS Alpaca 607, 618, 2020, 7139, 2915, 2925, 6309, 2923. Bon tricot!

27.02.2023 - 09:12

country flag Tara wrote:

Het lijkt wel een heel ander model als op de foto...ander patroon

19.02.2023 - 17:40

country flag Margot Robartes wrote:

Why does this pattern Black Berry Fizz pattern no z - 794, when neck Ribbing is completed, you then need to DECREASE stitches before starting the Yoke. Whilst the pattern Heim, pattern no z - 869, when the ribbing is completed you have to increase stitches before starting the Yoke???

21.05.2022 - 02:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Margot, this is due to the height of the rib. Pattern 180-7 has a low neck edge, so we cast on more stitches so that it doesn't tighten and we need to decrease these stitches to work a normal yoke. In the other pattern, the yoke is higher, so we cast on less stitches, so that it's more easily adjusted around the neck. Then you need to increase stitches to obtain the necessary ones for the yoke. Happy knitting!

22.05.2022 - 22:47

country flag Anja wrote:

Ich habe das Model Blueberry Fizz in XL exakt nach Strickanleitung gestrickt. Als unterer Abschluss des Rumpfteils sind 4 Krausrippen über die gesamte Maschenzahl vorgesehen. Leider klappt dieser Abschluss um 180 Grad um und steht hoch, statt nach unten zu hängen. Was kann ich da anders machen? Vielen Dank für einen Tipp!

14.09.2021 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, Sie können den Pullover mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß!

14.09.2021 - 16:15

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Bonjour, mon échantillon de jersey fait 23x31 , mais je suis entre la taille M’et L , mon tour de poitrine est de 100 cm . Que faire ? prendre une aiguille de 2,5 ou garder le 3 ? Merci !

18.02.2021 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, gardez les aiguilles no 3. Bon tricot!

18.02.2021 - 18:03

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Bonjour, ce pull me plaît beaucoup pour son motif jacquard mais je n’aime pas trop la forme du bas en trapèze . Comment faire pour le tricoter plus droit ?

20.11.2020 - 12:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, le pull se tricote de haut en bas, si vous ne souhaitez pas la forme trapèze, il vous suffira de ne pas faire les augmentations sur les côtés, les mesures du bas seraient dans ce cas identiques à celles du haut = 44-48-52-57-64-70 cm au lieu de 55-59-63-68-75-80 cm. Bon tricot!

20.11.2020 - 14:33

country flag Clare D wrote:

I'd like to make this but without the fair isle pattern - perhaps in a multicolour yarn? What is the total weight of (single or multi-colour) yarn I'd need?

10.12.2019 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Clare D, since we have worked this pattern with a fair isle pattern, we unfortunately don't have the amount of yarn of a single colour - you can add every colour, you would probably require less - check here jumper pattern with round yoke to inspire you. Happy knitting!

10.12.2019 - 16:08