DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Vintermys

Knitted jumper with multi-coloured Norwegian pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.

DROPS 179-28
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-263
Yarn group C or A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 0501, grey
200-200-250-250-250-300 g colour 1101, white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
----------------------------------------------------------
You can replace the DROPS Nepal colours used in this pattern with many other colour combinations. Check the pattern pictures for inspiration and the Comments section to find out the exact colour numbers in the samples.
----------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.5).

MOSS STITCH:
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat round 2.

DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 312 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 48) = 6.5. In this example, you knit alternately every 5th and 6th stitch and every 6th and 7th stitch together.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing its elasticity when working pattern, it is important that the strands do not tighten at the back of the piece. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 1 stitch before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker sits in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

CAST OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with ½ needle size larger.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes, then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed/ short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 228-258-258-282-282-312 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and grey. Knit 1 round. Then work as follows: * Knit 3, 3 stitches MOSS STITCH – see description above *, repeat from *-* to end of round. Work in this way for 5 cm. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 36-42-42-42-42-48 stitches evenly on round - read DECREASE TIP above = 192-216-216-240-240-264 stitches. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round and 1 marker after 96-108-108-120-120-132 stitches (= the sides) and allow the markers to follow your work upwards. Continue with stocking stitch – REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm work pattern as follows:
Work A.1 in the round (= 24-27-27-30-30-33 repeats of 8 stitches) – read PATTERN and KNITTING TIP above. When the whole of A.1 has been completed in height, work A.2 in the round (= 64-72-72-80-80-88 repeats of 3 stitches). When the whole of diagram A.2 has been completed in height, work pattern as follows: Work A.3a (= 18 stitches) 0-1-1-0-0-1 time, work A.3b (= 24 stitches) 8-8-8-10-10-10 times and A.3c (= 6 stitches) 0-1-1-0-0-1 time. When the whole of diagram A.3 has been completed in height, the piece measures approx. 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm.
Work the next round as follows: Work A.4 (= 64-72-72-80-80-88 repeats of 3 stitches) to end of round. Continue in the round according to A.4 until the piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm – finish after working a round marked with arrow in the diagram. Work the next round in A.4 and cast off 5-5-5-9-9-9 stitches in each side for armholes (= 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches before/3-3-3-5-5-5 stitches after both markers). Front and back pieces are now worked back and forth separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 91-103-103-111-111-123 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side). Continue back and forth until the whole of diagram A.4 have been completed 1 time in height, with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, in each side. Now work pattern as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.5a (= 4 stitches) a total of 22-25-25-27-27-30 times in width, work A.5b (= 1 stitch) and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the whole of diagram A.5 has been completed in height, continue working in stocking stitch and grey with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until finished length. When the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm cast off the middle 25-25-27-27-27-29 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 32-38-37-41-41-46 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm and cast off - read CAST OFF TIP. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 91-103-103-111-111-123 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side). Continue in the same way as for back piece until the piece measures 60-62-64-65-67-69 cm. Now place the middle 13-13-15-15-15-17 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 32-38-37-41-41-46 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm and cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed/short circular needle.
Cast on 36-36-42-42-42-42 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and grey. Knit 1 round. Then work as follows: * Knit 3, 3 stitches moss stitch *, repeat from *-* to end of round. Work like this for 3 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit 1 round where you decrease 4-2-6-6-4-2 stitches evenly on round = 32-34-36-36-38-40 stitches. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve) and allow the marker to follow your work upwards. Continue with stocking stitch. When the piece measures 4-6-6-6-5-8 cm increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 4-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm a total of 11-12-12-14-15-15 times = 54-58-60-64-68-70 stitches. When the piece measures 46-43-44-42-43-41 cm cast off the middle 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches (= 4-4-4-5-5-5 stitches on each side of the marker) and work a small sleeve cap back and forth on needle. Work stocking stitch and cast off at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Cast off 5-5-6-5-6-6 stitches 2 times and cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 48-45-46-44-45-43 cm. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edges. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 66-78 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread in front) with double pointed needles size 4.5mm and grey. Knit 1 round where you adjust the number of stitches to 66-66-72-72-78-78 stitches. Then work as follows: * Knit 3, 3 stitches moss stitch *, repeat from *-* to end of round. Work like this for 6 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

symbols = white
symbols = grey
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 179-28

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Blanc wrote:

Bonjour, comment tricoter le jacquard en aller/retour après la séparation. Comment tricoter sur l'envers ? Les couleurs comme elles se présentent où y a t-il une technique ? Merci de votre aide

12.12.2023 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blanc, notez la dernière maille tricotée sur l'endroit dans le diagramme et lisez désormais le diagramme de gauche à droite sur l'envers (et toujours de droite à gauche sur l'endroit), en commençant par la maille appropriée pour bien continuer le diagramme. Bon tricot!

12.12.2023 - 17:06

country flag Aleksandra wrote:

Tak, już doszłam do tego. Obudziłam się rano i mnie olśniło🤦‍♀️ . Myslalam właśnie ze muszę odejmować oczka przez całe okrążenie, równomiernie. Bardzo dziekuje za odpowiedz. Uwielbiam Waszą stronę. Jest skarbnicą wiedzy. Pozdrawiam

12.04.2021 - 22:32

country flag Aleksandra wrote:

Witam, mam problem z odejmowaniem oczek w pierwszym rzędzie zaraz za ściągaczem. We wzorze jest napisane ze muszę odjąć 36 o. Wg moich obliczeń muszę przerobić co 5i 6 o razem. Ale wtedy wychodzi mi ze odjelam 38 o. I zarazem nie zgadza mi się ogólna liczba oczek które powinny zostać na drugie. Zamiast 228o. początkowych minus 36o. odjętych =192o. mi wychodzą 228 o. początkowe minus 38o. odjętych =190 o. Co robię nie tak?

09.04.2021 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Olu, jak równomiernie dodawać/zamykać oczka znajdziesz TUTAJ. Pamiętaj, że jak zamykasz np. przerabiając każde 5-te i 6-te oczko to jest to wartość przybliżona, to nie wychodzi prawie nigdy tak idealnie. Kurs, który ci załączam doskonale to opisuje. Pozdrawiam!

12.04.2021 - 09:25

country flag Jena Norgaard Rethmeier wrote:

Hej, hvis bag og forside har 96 masker og der skal lukkes 5 masker i hver side til ærmegab hvordan kan der så blive 91 masker tilbage? 5 plus 5 giver 10... og det betyder 86 masker tilbage. Jeg forstår ikke hvordan I tæller.

19.01.2019 - 23:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jena, du har 96 + 96 =192m lukker 5 m af i hver side (ialt 10m) = 182 m deler med 2 = 91 masker på for og bagstykke. God fornøjelse!

07.05.2019 - 11:57

country flag Adriana Kesselman wrote:

I NEED HELP INTERPRETING CHART A.4. SINCE I WILL BE KNITTING BACK AND FOR, HOW MANY ROWS OF KNITTING DOES EACH SQUARE REPRESENT? AS I UNDERSTAND IT, SOME ROWS WITH PATTERNS IN DIFFERENT COLOUR WILL FALL ON A PURL ROW? AND WHAT DO THE ARROWS MEAN?

22.05.2018 - 20:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kessselman, 1 square in diagram = 1 stitch x 1 row. Diagrams shows all rows in pattern. Happy knitting!

23.05.2018 - 07:57

country flag Heidi wrote:

Hei. Jeg er nybegynner og trenger nå litt hjelp. Jeg har strikket A1 og A2, (størrelsen jeg strikker er M), men så skjønner jeg ingenting. Hvem av de neste skal strikkes nå? Det står A3a 1 gang, og så A3b 8 ganger og deretter A3c 1 gang? Hvilke skal jeg velge? Regner med at det også er etter størrelsen? Ser frem til et snarlig svar så jeg kan komme videre.

09.04.2018 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Heidi, Når du er ferdig med A.1 og A.2 skal neste omgangen strikkes med A.3 mønstrene (A.3a, A.3b og A.3c) i den rekkefølgen skrevet i oppskriften. Så på neste omgang, når du strikker M størrelse, begynner du med A.3a (=18 masker) 1 gang, også A.3b (=24 masker) 8 ganger etter hverandre og avslutte omgangen med A.3c (= 6 masker) 1 gang. Da har du strikket første omgang og fortsetter slik fram til du er ferdig med A.3 i høyden. God fornøyelse!

10.04.2018 - 08:08

country flag Marilyn Walton wrote:

Can you tell me how much yarn this pattern would need if it is knitted in one colour, i.e. without the fair-isle pattern, and whether this would alter the number of stitches required? The measurements seem to be much larger than for similar styled jumper patterns on the website.

18.12.2017 - 21:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Walton, we are unfortunately not able to adjust each our patterns to every individual request. You can get help from our other pattern for jumpers in yarn group C (see here, check the measurement chart for same shape. You are also welcome to contact your DROPS store for any further individual assistance, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

19.12.2017 - 08:20

country flag Sally Stephenson wrote:

This pattern seems huge, I started to knit it and realised it was going to swamp me. I am a UK 16/XL, but now starting again as L. Is this OK? Or am I missing something?

08.10.2017 - 10:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally, since every person knits slightly differently, it s very important to check your gauge by kniting a small swatch, wash it, dry it and compare with the number of stitches and rows given in the pattern and, if necessary adjust the size of the needle you are using, and/or the size you are knitting. Happy crafting!

08.10.2017 - 22:14

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Colour combinations shown are: A) DROPS Nepal 2923, 0100 B) DROPS Nepal 8910, 0500

27.09.2017 - 11:08

country flag Frøy wrote:

Fin genser, men "vintermys"? Hvis det ikke handler om å knipe sammen øynene om vinteren blir det vel "vinterkos" på norsk ... "mys" er svensk ;)

19.07.2017 - 23:34