DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 181-8
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-603
Yarn group E or C + C
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BAG:
Measurements:
Circumference: approx. 92 cm
Height: approx. 46 cm
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
150 g 21, blue violet
150 g 23, tan
150 g 01, off white
100 g 15, dark blue
100 g 47, light beige
100 g 48, beige

The bag in the picture weighs 438 g.

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group E)" – see the link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 13 treble crochets and 6 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

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PURSE:
Measurements: approx. 15 cm long and 11 cm high.
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from GARNSTUDIO (belongs to yarn group E)
Use left-over yarn of the following colours: 21, blue violet, 23, tan, 01, off white, 15, dark blue and 47 light beige.

The purse in the picture weighs 66 g.

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group E)" – see the link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 13 double crochets on 10 cm in width.
DROPS CEDAR BUTTON NO.511 - 1 piece.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. 1 square = 1 treble crochet.

COLOUR PATTERN (for bag): 
When changing colour, work as follows: Work the last treble crochet before the colour change, but wait with the last pull through. Change to the next colour and work the last pull through before continuing in this colour. If the next round starts with a new colour, work the last slip stitch with the new colour at the end of the round. When working with several colours on one round, lay the strands you are not using over the stitches from the previous round, you work around these strands so that they are hidden and brought along.

CROCHET INFO-1:
The first treble crochet on the round is replaced by 3 chain stitches, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

CROCHET INFO-2:
Start the round with 1 chain stitch. This does not replace the first double crochet, but is in addition to. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: Work 1 treble crochet but wait with the last pull through (= 2 loops on the hook), then work the next treble crochet, but when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all 3 loops on the hook.
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BAG:
The bag is worked in the round, bottom up.
Work 5 chain stitches with Snow and blue violet with hook size 4.5 mm. Form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue working in the round according to diagram A.1 (work 11 repeats of A.1 in width) – READ COLOUR PATTERN!
ROUND 1: Work 11 treble crochets around the ring – READ CROCHET INFO-1!
ROUND 2: Work 2 treble crochets in each treble crochet = 22 treble crochets.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 treble crochet in the first treble crochet, 2 treble crochets in the next treble crochet *, repeat *-* to end of round = 33 treble crochets.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 treble crochet in each of the first 2 treble crochets, 2 treble crochets in the next treble crochet*, repeat *-* to end of round = 44 treble crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUNDS 5-11: Continue with increases and pattern as before, i.e. each round you work 1 treble crochet more between increases = 121 treble crochets on the round.
Continue working in the round but without increases according to diagram A.2 (work 15 repeats of A.2 in width), AT THE SAME TIME on the first round, decrease 1 treble crochet READ DECREASE TIP! = 120 treble crochets.
NOTE! On the last round of A.2 (marked with an arrow in the diagram) do not work treble crochets. Work as follows with dark blue: 1 chain stitch (replaces 1 double crochet), * 3 chain stitches, skip 2 treble crochets and work 1 double crochet in the next treble crochet*, repeat from *-* to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strands. 

STRAPS: 
Cut 4 strands of each colour of 120 cm = 24 strands. Lay the strands together and tie a loose knot, leave approx. 12 cm yarn before the knot. Divide the strands into 3 bunches with 8 strands in each bunch. Plait the 3 bunches together until there are approx. 25 cm left of the strands. Divide the strands in two. Thread the 2 parts through the bag (from inside out) on the third round from the top, leave 1 treble crochet between each part. Tie the parts together on the outside of the bag. Pick up the knot at the beginning of the plait and fasten this end to the bag in the same way but opposite side. Make one more plait in the same way and fasten it on the other side of the bag. Cut the ends of the strands so that they are the same length.

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PURSE:
The purse is worked in the round, bottom up. Work 21 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm with blue violet.
ROUND 1: Work 3 double crochets in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, then work 1 double crochet in each chain-stitch row until there is 1 chain stitch left (= 18 double crochets), work 3 double crochets in this stitch. Now you are going to work the under-side of the chain-stitch row (the under-side of the double crochets you have just worked). Work 1 double crochet in each stitch (= 18 double crochets) and finish the round by working 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet. There are now 42 double crochets on the round.
ROUND 2: READ CROCHET INFO-2! Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round, change to dark blue and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 3: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round, change to tan and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 5: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round, change to light beige and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 6: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 7: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round, change to off white and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 8: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round, change to light beige and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 9: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 10: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round, change to tan and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 11: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to mid front of piece, now work a buttonhole as follows: Work 2 chain stitches and skip 2 double crochets. Then continue with double crochets to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 12: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet as far as the chain stitches, around the chain stitches work 2 double crochets, continue with double crochets to end of round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 13: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet to end of round and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round. Cut and fasten the strands. Fasten the button on the inside of the purse on the opposite side to the buttonhole.

CORD:
Cut 2 strands of 40 cm in each colour = 10 strands. Tie the ends together at one end (leave approx. 6 cm before the knot) and divide into 3 bunches. Plait the strands, pull the end without the knot through the double crochet row in one side of the purse. Pick up the knot in the other end, lay all strands together and tie a knot. Cut the ends of the strands so that they are the same length.

Diagram

symbols = blue violet
symbols = dark blue
symbols = tan
symbols = light beige
symbols = off white
symbols = beige
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Marlaine DeForge wrote:

When on the increase round and changing colors , does the increase count as 1 or 2 stitches ? I’m counting the increase as 2 and the pattern isn’t lining up correctly. Thank you .

24.09.2021 - 02:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs DeForge, crochet the diagram increasing at the same time (the diagram shows the increased stitches): on first round in A.1 crochet 11 trebles with blue violet, then crochet 2 tr in each st (= 2 sts in each A.1), then inc in every other st (= 3 sts in each A.1) and so on. Hope this will help, happy crocheting!

24.09.2021 - 07:44

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno vorrei fare questo modello ma con il filato paris mi aiutate per favore con quantitarivi del filato nelle tonalita del rosso ?(o avete per caso gia predisposto qualcosa voi?) vi ringrazio sin da ora per l'aiuto patrizia

29.05.2020 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia. A questa pagina trova le indicazioni per la sostituzione dei filati. E’ riportato anche un esempio per sostituire un filato del gruppo E (eskimo) con Paris. Per un aiuto più personalizzato (anche per la combinazione dei colori) può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

29.05.2020 - 09:23

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno vorrei farte questa borsa ma con il filato paris e' possibile ?potrei avere problemi con le dimensioni (filato/uncinetto)?e i quantitativi come posso calcolarli?grazie per l'aiuto buona giornata e buon lavoro patrizia

29.05.2020 - 08:44

country flag Marinella Massaro wrote:

Grazie per la risposta . saluti, marinella

15.04.2019 - 19:47

country flag Marinella Massaro wrote:

Buongiorno , ora vivo in Argentina , nella Patagonia , ed essendoci basse temperature , lavoro solo la lana .Mi sono specializzata in Fair Isle , con ferri circolari , in genere . Sempre osservo gli schemi . Questo modello si potrebbe fare ai ferri , con gli aumenti inframezzati lungo i giri per lo schema A 1 e poi proseguire diritto con lo schema A 2 , o lo vedete troppo complicato ? Grazie Marinella

13.04.2019 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Marinella. In base alla sua esperienza, è possibile riprodurre ai ferri il motivo jacquard. Il risultato finale potrebbe però essere leggermente diverso per via della diversa dimensione tra un punto lavorato all’uncinetto ed uno lavorato ai ferri. Buon lavoro!

13.04.2019 - 16:21

country flag Baerfuss wrote:

Hallo, Danke für Ihre Antwort. Ich habe die Zunahmen genau so gemacht und es geht trotzdem nicht auf. Ich habe die ganzen Maschen sogar schon auf einem karierten Papier aufgezeichnet und komme auch so nicht hin, dass das Muster stimmt. Es ergibt die 99 Maschen, aber das Ende stimmt nicht.

03.09.2018 - 16:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Baerfuss, vielleich können Sie Markierer zwischen jedem Rapport einsetzen, so wird es einfacher jedes Rapport zu folgen and prüfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

04.09.2018 - 10:49

country flag Anne Baerfuss wrote:

Hallo, ich bin dabei, mir dies Tasche zu häkeln. Nun bin ich bei Reihe 9 angelangt, aber mir geht das Muster nicht auf. Beginnt mit 1 Masche dunkelblau, dann 5 Maschen in blauviolett, 3 Maschen in dunkelblau, 5 Maschen in blauviolett etc. Am Ende der Reihe geht es dann aber nicht auf. Interpretiere ich etwas falsch? Ich bin da bei 3 Maschen in dunkelblau und dann bleibt mir noch genau eine Masche der Vorreihe übrig. Eigentlich sollte doch der Schluss dann 2 dunkelblaue Maschen sein, oder?

02.09.2018 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Baerfuss, vergessen Sie die Zunahmen nicht: bei der 9. reihe in A.1 haben Sie: 1 M in dunkelblau, 5 M in blauviolett, 1 M in dunkelblau und 1 Zunahme (= 2 M in dunkelblau). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.09.2018 - 15:42

country flag Dorotea wrote:

Non mi è chiaro se nei giri da 5 a 11 bisogna usare il diagramma A1

14.10.2017 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Dorotea. Sì deve continuare a seguire il diagramma A.1 fino al giro 11. Buon lavoro!

14.10.2017 - 21:25

Jan wrote:

Most of your patterns specify if the terms are UK or US. This one does not. Which is this written in? I can guess, but I'd rather be sure. Thank you!

13.07.2017 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jan, This pattern is found in both UK and US English, so you can choose, but if the one you are looking at has both cm and inch measurements it is US. If there are only cm measurements it is UK. Happy crocheting!

14.07.2017 - 08:52

Imene wrote:

I'm from Algeria, and i love your designs ❤️ Thank you for sharing them.

14.06.2017 - 19:00