DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Song of the Sea

Knitted jumper with raglan, lace pattern, garter stitch and split in the side, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS 181-22
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-128
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 24, petrol

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 23 stitches and 45 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM – for garter stitch edge.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat by all 4 marker threads (= a total of 8 stitches increased). On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides in front and back pieces):
All increases are worked from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch on the inside of 2 stitches in each side of the piece as follows: Work 2 stitches garter stitch, 1 yarn over, work pattern as before until there are 2 stitches left, 1 yarn over, 2 stitches garter stitch. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (for yoke)
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 16 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 11) = 1.4. In this example, increase alternately after approx. every first and 2nd stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeve):
All decreases are worked from the wrong side (i.e. with knit)
Knit 2, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 4 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), finish with knit 2.
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JUMPER:
The yoke is worked in the round, top down, with circular needle, before dividing for the front and back pieces, which are worked back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 98-104-104-116-116-126 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk. Remove one of the strands and continue with 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above.
Work, increase and insert 4 marker threads as follows: Knit 16 stitches at the same time as you increase 11 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1, insert 1 marker thread (= left sleeve), knit 33-36-36-42-42-47 stitches at the same time as you increase 10-15-15-17-17-20 stitches evenly (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread, knit 16 stitches at the same time as you increase 11 stitches evenly (= right sleeve), insert 1 marker thread, knit 32-35-35-41-41-46 stitches at the same time as you increase 10-15-15-17-17-20 stitches evenly, insert 1 marker thread and finish with 1 stitch garter stitch (= back piece) = 140-156-156-172-172-188 stitches.
Purl 1 round. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm.
Then work as follows:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 8 stitches, A.2 over the next 8 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 2 stitches garter stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches = left sleeve), work A.1 over the next 8 stitches, work A.2 over the next 24-32-32-40-40-48 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 2 stitches garter stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches = front piece), A.1 over the next 8 stitches, A.2 over the next 8 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 2 stitches garter stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches = right sleeve), work A.1 over the next 8 stitches, work A.2 over the next 24-32-32-40-40-48 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch (= back piece)
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue with pattern and increase to RAGLAN – see description above. The increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go. Increase every 2nd round 1-2-6-6-7-7 times, then every 4th round 21-23-22-24-26-28 times (= a total of 22-25-28-30-33-35 times).
After all the increases, there are 316-356-380-412-436-468 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm.
The next round is worked as follows: Place the first 66-74-82-86-92-92 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), continue pattern over the next 92-104-108-120-126-142 stitches (= front piece), place the next 66-74-82-86-92-92 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), continue with pattern over the next 92-104-108-120-126-142 stitches (= back piece). Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeves in both sides. These markers mark the divide between the front and back pieces. The front piece, back piece and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BACK PIECE:
= 100-112-120-132-142-158 stitches. The piece is now worked back and forth. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Adjust so that the pattern matches the pattern on the yoke.
Work 5-7-7-5-6-6 stitches garter stitch, A.1 over the next 8 stitches, A.2 over the next 72-80-88-104-112-128 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 6-8-8-6-7-7 stitches garter stitch. Continue pattern in this way.
When the piece measures 5 cm from the separation, increase 1 stitch inside 2 stitches in each side of the piece (= 2 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP-2! The increased stitches are worked in garter stitch. Increase in this way every 4-5-5-5-3-4 cm a total of 5-4-4-4-6-5 times = 110-120-128-140-154-168 stitches. Continue the pattern until the piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm from the separation (the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm in total from shoulder), finish the pattern after a complete or half repeat in height. Work 5 RIDGES – see description above, over all stitches, then loosely cast off with double strand.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as for back piece.

SLEEVE:
Place the 66-74-82-86-92-92 stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on circular needle size 3.5 mm and cast on 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches in each side of the piece at the end of the next 2 rows = 74-82-94-98-108-108 stitches.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, but the wrong side should face outwards (purl from right side, knit from wrong side). When the piece measures 2 cm from the separation, decrease 1 stitch in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 2½-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 13-16-21-21-25-24 times = 48-50-52-56-58-60 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-38-38-36-35-33 cm from the separation (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Now work garter stitch back and forth over all stitches for 4 cm. Then loosely cast off with double strand. The sleeve measures 43-42-42-40-39-37 cm from the separation and down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the underarm sleeves, from the separation and down – sew inside the 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew the side seams from the separation and down – sew edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch, so that the seam is flat, but stop when you have approx.12 cm left in each side (= split). Sew the seam in the other side in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.10.2017
YOKE:...Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 8 stitches, A.2 over the next 8 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 2 stitches garter stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches = left sleeve), work A.1 over the next 8 stitches, work A.2 over the next 24-32-32-40-40-48 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 2 stitches garter stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches = front piece), A.1 over the next 8 stitches, A.2 over the next 8 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 2 stitches garter stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches = right sleeve), work A.1 over the next 8 stitches, work A.2 over the next 24-32-32-40-40-48 stitches, A.3 over the next 9 stitches, 1 stitch in garter stitch (= back piece)...

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side
symbols = knit from wrong side, purl from right side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Maria wrote:

Can the body also be knit in the round? I don't understand why it needs to be split. Thank you

04.04.2022 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maria, you can adapt the pattern to work the body in the round, but just note that there should be 12 cm vents on each side, ie you should divide piece and end front and back piece separately on the last 12 cm to keep vents. Happy knitting!

04.04.2022 - 15:06

country flag Rita wrote:

Hej! Mönstret lämnar mycket utrymme för tolkning på flera ställen tyvärr. Trots upprepade kontroller och omstart 6ggr går inte mönstret ihop efter första raglanökningen. Instruktioner varv för varv skulle göra det lättare att förstå. För svårtolkad för en rätt erfaren stickare vilket är synd då mönstret är så vackert.

13.08.2021 - 18:12

country flag Petra Wisiak wrote:

Hallo! Ich verstehe nicht, wie ich die Maschen der Raglanzunahme in das Muster einarbeiten soll. Bitte um Hilfe, danke!☺

05.12.2020 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wisiak, die neuen Maschen nach den Raglanlinien werden wie in A.1 gestrickt (= lesen Sie das Diagram links nach recht) - und vor den Raglanlinien werden die neuen Maschen wie in A.3 gestrickt (Diagram rechts nach links lesen). Stricken Sie krausrechts die Maschen, die nicht im Lochmuster gestrickt werden können (wenn Sie nicht genügend Maschen haben, um 1 Abnahme + den dazugehörigenden Umschlag zu stricken). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.12.2020 - 07:44

country flag Amy wrote:

Prachtig patroon! Ik wil deze maken, maar dan de hele mouw ook in kantpatroon. Mijn vraag is: heb ik dan meer garen nodig? Ik heb nu 125g in huis. Volgens de beschrijving is dat genoeg voor de maat die ik wil maken, maar misschien moet ik dan nog een bol bijbestellen?

21.01.2020 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Amy,

Nee hoor, je hoeft dan geen extra garen te bestellen. Je hebt genoeg aan dezelfde hoeveelheid (en misschien heb je zelfs minder nodig.)

26.01.2020 - 14:37

country flag Katja wrote:

Es steht: Die Zunahmen in jeder 2. Runde 6x (Grösse L) arbeiten. Bedeutet das, dass ich in der 2. runde 6 mal zunehmen soll? Normalerweise nimmt man doch nur an den markierten Maschen/Raglanmaschen zu, aber das sind nur 4?

03.02.2019 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katja, Sie sollen insgesamt 6 Zunahmenrunde (in jede 2. Runde) stricken, aber Siei werden jeweils 8 Maschen (= 2 für jeden Ärmel + 2 am Vorder bzw Rückenteil) zunehmen, nach diesen 6 Zunahmenrunde haben Sie 8 Maschen x 6 zugenommen. Dann in jede 4. Runde 22-24 x zunehmen (auch 8 Maschen wie zuvor). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.02.2019 - 12:06

country flag Vibeke wrote:

Str. Xl

28.09.2018 - 15:09

country flag Vibeke wrote:

Hej Jeg kan simpelthen ikke gennemskue hvori den rettelse I har beskrevet består. Jeg ender med at få 2 masker for meget når jeg er igennem første mønster pind Mvh. Vibeke

26.09.2018 - 17:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vibeke, hvilken størrelse strikker du, så skal vi prøve at guide dig igennem første mønsterpind :)

28.09.2018 - 14:47

country flag Agnès wrote:

Merci 😊

10.03.2018 - 08:16

country flag Agnès wrote:

Bonjour, après plusieurs digressions vers d'autres ouvrages , j'ai repris celui-ci et je me heurte au rabattement des mailles avec le fil en double! Pouvez-vous m'indiquer un lien, une vidéo expliquant cette " technique ". Merci de votre aide.

03.03.2018 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Agnès, pour rabattre avec le fil en double, prenez simplement le fil d'une autre pelote (ou bien l'autre extrémité de la même pelote) et rabattez les mailles comme d'habitude, mais en utilisant les 2 fils. Bon tricot!

05.03.2018 - 08:43

Ksana wrote:

In Yoke - 104 sts - deviding is described (for M) like this: 16-36-16-35... which doent make 104. where was 1 st gone? Thank you for explaining

13.01.2018 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ksana, when doing the first row, after the last marker (after the 35 stitch) the pattern tells you to knit one stitch with garter stitch, that makes up the 104th stitch. Happy Knitting!

13.01.2018 - 21:35