DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 4.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Namdalen

Set consists of: Knitted hat with texture and jumper with round yoke, raglan and texture, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL Set is knitted in DROPS Puna.

DROPS 179-1
DROPS design: Pattern pu-014
Yarn group B
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For the entire set use approx. 500-550-600-650-700-750 g DROPS Puna.
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JUMPER:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 10, old pink

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
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HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g for all sizes in color 10, old pink

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 4.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Hat: See diagrams A.3 and A.4.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 240 stitches) and divide number of stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 8) = 30. In this example increase after approx. every 30th stitch.
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. Repeat at the remaining marker threads on round (= 8 stitches increased on round). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Beginning of round = mid back. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

Cast on 114-120-126-132-138-144 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Puna. Knit 1 round. Then work PATTERN - see explanation above, according to diagram A.1 (= 38-40-42-44-46-48 repetitions of 3 stitches on first round). When 6 rounds have been worked of diagram (to and with round marked with arrow in diagram) switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue until A.1 has been worked vertically. There are 228-240-252-264-276-288 stitches on round and piece measures 10 cm / 4'' from cast-on edge. Work 2 rounds in stockinette stitch and increase 2-8-16-24-20-34 stitches evenly on last round – read INCREASE TIP - see explanation above = 230-248-268-288-296-322 stitches. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Insert 4 marker threads in piece without working as follows: Insert 1st marker thread after 34-36-39-43-46-51 stitches, 2nd marker thread after another 47-52-56-58-56-59 stitches, 3rd marker thread after another 68-72-78-86-92-102 stitches, and 4th marker thread after another 47-52-56-58-56-59 stitches. There are now 34-36-39-43-46-51 stitches left on round. Continue in stockinette stitch and on next round begin increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above. Increase like this every 4th round 6-8-9-10-12-13 times in total = 278-312-340-368-392-426 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch without increasing stitches until piece measures 23-25-27-29-31-33 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13" from cast-on edge.
Work next round as follows: Work first 40-44-48-53-58-64 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 59-68-74-78-80-85 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 80-88-96-106-116-128 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 59-68-74-78-80-85 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under sleeve, work the remaining 40-44-48-53-58-64 stitches on round (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 176-192-212-232-256-280 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast-on under sleeves in each side (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches on each side of marker thread). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', work A.2 (= 6 stitches) mid under each sleeve so that there are 3 stitches of diagram on each side of marker thread. For every time A.2 has been worked vertically, 4 stitches have been increased on round. Work the new stiches in stockinette stitch. Continue like this until A.2 has been worked 11 times vertically = 220-236-256-276-300-324 stitches. Piece measures approx. 27 cm / 10½''. Knit 1 round while increasing 20-22-23-24-27-30 stitches evenly = 240-258-279-300-327-354 stitches. Knit 1 round. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Now work rib = knit 1/purl 2 until rib measures 4 cm / 1½''. Switch back to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Knit 1 round and loosely bind off by knitting. To avoid a tight bind-off edge use a larger needle or make a yarn over that is casted off after approx. every 4th stitch. Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.
Slip the 59-68-74-78-80-85 stitches from stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 67-76-84-88-92-97 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= mid under sleeve). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-3rd round 11-14-16-18-19-20 times in total = 45-48-52-52-54-57 stitches. Knit 1 round while decreasing 0-0-1-1-0-0 stitches = 45-48-51-51-54-57 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 35-33-32-30-28-27 cm / 13 3/4"-13"-12½"-11 3/4"-11"-10½" (NOTE: shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Now work rib = knit 1/purl 2 until rib measures 4 cm / 1½''. Switch back to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Knit 1 round. Then bind off by knitting. To avoid a tight bind-off edge use a larger needle or make a yarn over that is casted off after approx. every 4th stitch. Sleeve measures approx. 39-37-36-34-32-31 cm / 15 1/4"-14½"-14 1/4"-13½"-12½"-12 1/4". Work the other sleeve the same way.

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HAT:
Worked in the round, top down on double pointed needles. Switch to a short circular needle when increasing.

Cast on 11-12 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Puna. NOTE! Leave approx. 30 cm / 11 3/4'' yarn end to tighten the hat at the top when finished.
ROUND 1: Knit all stitches.
ROUND 2: Knit 1-1, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* = 21-23 stitches.
ROUND 3: Knit all stitches. Knit all yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Now work PATTERN – see explanation above, as follows:
Work diagram A.3 (= 1 stitch on first round) 21-23 times on round. When A.3 has been worked vertically, there are 126-138 stitches on round. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Work diagram A.4 (= 6 stitches) over every repetition of A.3. When A.4 has been worked 5 times vertically, piece measures approx. 26 cm / 10 1/4''.
Work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) until hat measures 28-28 cm / 11"-11''. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Fasten off. Tighten together top of hat by basting yarn up and down in one and one stitch, tighten, fasten yarn.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = insert needle down between 4th and 5th stitch, pull yarn through (= 1 new stitch), knit 1, purl 2, knit 1
symbols = knit the new stitch from previous round and next stitch (= 2 stitches) together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round purl yarn over twisted.
symbols = at beginning of this round (= 19th and 31st round in A.1 and 7th round in A.4 knit first 1 stitch (not shown in diagram), then repeat the 6 stitches in diagram in the round on round. Work next round (= 20th and 32nd round in A.1 and 8th round in A.4) as follows: Skip first knit stitch in diagram and work the remaining 6 stitches, then repeat all 7 stitches the entire round (i.e. the last stitch worked on round is a purl stitch). Continue the remaining rounds as shown in diagram).
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit the yarn over to make holes.
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
symbols = when this round has been worked, switch to circular needle size 4 mm
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Marcela wrote:

Dobrý den. Jak docílím výstřihu 3 cm, který je zobrazen na rozkresu? Když budu plést podle návodu, budu mít přední i zadní díl stejný. Myslela jsem, že někde budou použity zkrácené řady. Děkuji za odpověď.

07.01.2024 - 18:14

country flag Mickael wrote:

Bonjour je suis au 19e rang du motif A1 je fais la première maille endroit comme indiqué et je répète tout le long les 6 mailles du motif mais je me retrouve à la fin avec deux mailles je ne sais pas quoi faire je démarrer avec 264 mailles je suis en taille XL

06.12.2023 - 08:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mickael, le diagramme est juste un peu décalé mais vos mailles vont s'aligner, tricotez simplement les mailles comme indiqué dans le diagramme. Retrouvez la vidéo de A.1 ici. Bon tricot!

15.02.2024 - 08:59

country flag Lisa wrote:

In working chart A.1, when I'm at the end of R 19 I have 3 stitches left before the marker (as it comes it would be K-P-P). I followed the video for the beginning of the R and knit the first stitch. Everything else looks right. It almost looks like I need to do one more pull through between 4-5 stitches, then K-P-P-K, but that would be going over the end of R marker to achieve that. Thanks for your help.

21.04.2023 - 05:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, make sure that you get (K1, P2, K1, P2) on previous round, then work: (K1 = first stitch in diagram, will be worked at the end of the round); *P2, insert needle down between 4th and 5th stitch, pull yarn through (= 1 new stitch), knit 1, purl 2, knit 1 (this knit 1 is the first stitch next repeat*, repeat from *-* all the round; on last repeat you will end working the first stitch of the round together with the last repeat (K1, p2, k1). See also time code approx. 09:00 in this video. Happy knitting!

21.04.2023 - 08:27

country flag Domi wrote:

Bonjour, j’aimerais faire ce modèle (pull et bonnet) en kid Silk et alpaca. Est ce possible et combien me faudrait il de laine . Merci pour votre réponse

29.03.2023 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Domi, un mélange kid-Silk + Alpaca correspond à une épaisseur de laine du type groupe de fils C, or, ce modèle se tricote en Puna, groupe du fils B, vous ne pourrez pas utiliser ce mélange car votre tension serait différente. Retrouvez ici tous les modèles de tension 17-16 m où vous pourrez utiliser ce mélange (utilisez alors le convertisseur pour calculer les nouvelles quantités correspondantes). Bon tricot!

11.04.2023 - 09:40

country flag Pelletier wrote:

Les augmentations sous les bras sous les bras se font en tricotant le diagramme A2, donc avec des jetés. Au tour suivant, dois-je tricoter les jetés torses ? Il me semble que si je tricote les jetés normalement, les trous que cela va créer font faire bizarre sur les côtés du pull. Que feriez-vous?

01.01.2023 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pelletier, les jetés de A.2 se tricotent normalement, à l'endroit pour qu'ils forment des jours, vous aurez ainsi une ligne de 2 jours sous chaque manche, le long des côtés. Vous pouvez bien sûr les tricoter torse si vous ne voulez pas de trous. Bon tricot!

02.01.2023 - 15:56

country flag Claudia wrote:

Buongiorno, mi piace tantissimo questo modello è approfittando dell' Alpaca party volevo ordinare questo stesso filato ma non trovo il colore nel puna

21.09.2022 - 23:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, questo colore non è più presente nella cartella colori di Puna, ma può scegliere tra gli altri bellissimi colori!. Buon lavoro!

22.09.2022 - 16:14

country flag Catherine Vaesken wrote:

Lorsque vous dites : sauter la premiere maille endroit du diagramme et tricoter les mailles restantes , est ce que je dois passer cette premiere maille sur l'aiguille de droite sans la tricoter , merci de votre reponse

08.06.2021 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vaesken, tout à fait, elle sera tricotée à la fin du tour avec les 2 dernières mailles du diagramme (= quand on tricote: piquer l’aiguille entre la 4ème et la 5ème maille, ramener une boucle (= 1 nouvelle maille), tricoter 1 maille endroit, 2 mailles envers, 1 maille endroit). Bon tricot!

08.06.2021 - 11:38

country flag åse wrote:

Denne genseren ble mislykket for meg, dessverre. Den ble altfor vid i bolen på grunn av økningene i siden. Jeg synes også den ble vid i halsen og "bumsete". Jeg har ellers strevd mye med telling, og fulgt oppskriften. Nå ser jeg ingen annen utvei enn å rekke hele genseren opp igjen, og strikke en annen modell som er enklere, og går høyere opp bak i nakken.

31.12.2019 - 11:20

country flag IvyLeaguer wrote:

I have a question on the reason for knitting diagram A.2. for body (waist down). It looks like knitting A.2. creates holes (in addition to increasing the number of stitches) -- why do we do that? Why do we want holes? Is this for decoration?

22.07.2019 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear IvyLeaguer, yes, this pattern is mostly for decoration - the row of holes creates the "side" and helps opical shaping. If you dont want to make it, just make stocking st instead. Happy knitting!

22.07.2019 - 16:41

country flag IvyLeaguer wrote:

Under the Increase Tip, it states: "Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes." How do we "work yarn overs twisted" in the next round, when we are working in the round?

07.06.2019 - 06:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ivy, please see our video how to knit A.1 HERE. Happy knitting!

07.06.2019 - 07:02