DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 29-14
DROPS design: Pattern z-097-by
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Width: approx. 66 cm Length: approx. 87 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300 g colour 100, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A”) - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 30 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically. 1 repetition of pattern according to diagram A.2 measures approx. 4½ cm in width and 4½ cm vertically. 

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Baby Baby Blanketslace
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch at the end of every purl section (after last purl stitch) by picking up loop between 2 stitches in transition between knit and purl. Purl loop twisted to avoid holes. On next increase, increase after every knit stitch and purl loop twisted

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
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BLANKET:
Cast on 287 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Alpaca. Purl 1 row from wrong side. On next row from right side work rib as follows: 3 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - * knit 1, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, finish with knit 1 and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
When piece measures 2 cm, decrease all 3 purl (seen from right side) to 2 purl = 217 stitches.
When piece measures 3 cm, decrease every other 2 purl to 1 purl = 182 stitches.
When piece measures 4 cm, decrease the remaining 2 purl to 1 purl = 147 stitches.
When rib measures 6 cm - adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm.
Work next row as follows from right side: 3 stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over the next 140 stitches (= 14 repetitions of 10 stitches), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and finish with 3 stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.2 over A.1. When piece measures 75 cm (= 6 cm rib, 1 repetition of A.1 and approx. 14 repetitions of A.2 vertically), work A.1 over A.2. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, insert 1 marker in piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Switch to circular needle size 3 mm.
On next row from right side work rib as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, finish with knit 1 and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
When piece measures 2 cm, increase every other 1 purl to 2 purl - READ INCREASE TIP = 182 stitches.
When piece measures 3 cm, increase the remaining 1 purl to 2 purl = 217 stitches.
When piece measures 4 cm, increase all 2 purl to 3 purl = 287 stitches.
When piece measures 6 cm, purl 1 row from wrong side. Cast off. Piece measures approx. 87 cm in total.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Renee wrote:

Mindering op 4cm gaat volgens mij niet. Er staat dan 1 recht 1 averecht op de naald. Minderen van 2 averecht samenbreien is niet mogelijk.

05.03.2022 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Renee,

Op een hoogte van 3 cm heb je al een aantal averechte delen geminderd van 2 naar 1 averecht. Op een hoogte van 4 cm minder je de andere averechte delen. M.a.w.: op 3 cm minder je het ene averechte deel wel en het andere averechte deel niet en op 4 cm minder je de overgebleven averechte delen.

07.03.2022 - 13:19

country flag Inge Nyegaard Schultz wrote:

Er det muligt at købe opskriften på papir.

01.03.2021 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inge. Nei, men du kan printe den ut. Trykk på print ikonet. mvh DROPS design

03.03.2021 - 13:36

country flag Anette Hans wrote:

Hvordan strikker jeg det her tæppe, Drops design Model z-097-by Jeg vil gerne have hjælp til hele opskriften hvordan jeg gør det. Når arb måler 2 cm tages alle 3 vrang (set fra retsiden) ind til 2 vrang = 217 masker. Når arb måler 3 cm tages hver 2. 2 vrang ind til 1 vrang = 182 masker. Når arb måler 4 cm tages de resterende 2 vrang ind til 1 vrang = 147 masker.

08.10.2020 - 08:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anette. Du har 287 masker og skal felle til 147 masker over flere rader. Når arbeidet måler 2 cm strikkes alle 3 vrang partiene (sett fra retten) til 2 vrang ved å strikke 2 vrang sammen, 1 vrang = 2 vrang masker der det tidligere var 3 vrang masker. Når arbeidet måler 3 cm felles annenhver 2 vrang til 1 vrang ved å strikke 2 vrang sammen og når arbeidet måler 4 cm felles de resterende 2 vrang til 1 vrang ved å strikke 2 vrang sammen. Se gjerne hjelpevideo om hvordan man strikker 2 vrang sammen. God Fornøyelse!

12.10.2020 - 11:30

country flag Jette Bach wrote:

Hvis jeg blot strikker A1 efter A2, hvor jeg starter A1 med række 1 (slå om, 2 ret sammen, 5 ret, 1ret løs af, 1 ret, tag den løs over den 1 ret, ...), så slutter mønsteret med "spidsen" før ribben.

04.05.2020 - 18:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette, det er sådan tæppet ser ud i den anden ende, men om du vil have det ens i begge sider, må du gerne afslutte efter de første 8 pinde i A.1. God fornøjelse!

05.05.2020 - 10:26

country flag Jette Bach wrote:

Jeg er ved at være færdig. Er det korrekt at a2 skal strikkes lige inden ribben. Jeg synes blot at så kommer ribben til at være lige over spidsen i a2 er det korrekt opfattet?

03.05.2020 - 17:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jette. Nei, når arbeidet måler 75 cm (= 6 cm vrangbord, 1 rapport av A.1 og ca 14 rapporter av A.2 i høyden), strikkes A.1 over A.2. Når A.1 er strikket 1 gang i høyden, strikkes vrangborden. God Fornøyelse!

04.05.2020 - 15:17

country flag Pia Sørensen wrote:

Som jeg forstår det så skal A1 kun stikkes i starten og i slutningen af arbejdet, så det er A2 der kører hele vejen igennem selve tæppet, er det rigtigt

02.11.2019 - 08:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, ja det stemmer :)

05.11.2019 - 09:04

country flag Helle wrote:

Kan man undlade ribkanten foroven og forneden og bare strikke en kant i retstrikning ligesom der er i siderne.

26.05.2019 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helle. Ribkanten danner et slags viftemønster, som du ikke like lett oppnår ved å strikke rettstrikkning. Om du helst vil strikke rettstrikning kan du vurdere å strikke kanten rett, og da legge opp 147 masker, og så strikke hele kanten uten fellinger. God fornøyelse

27.05.2019 - 11:38

country flag Nina wrote:

Når jeg laver ribben, skal jeg så lave 3 ret og en vrang fra vrangsiden?

24.05.2019 - 08:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nina. Ja, du strikker rett over rett, og vrang over vrang, så da blir det 3 rett og 1 vrang når du strikker fra vrangsiden. God fornøyelse

24.05.2019 - 08:38

country flag Gitte Joensen wrote:

Jeg er lige gået igang med tæppet - jeg synes overhovedet ikke kanten ligner rib (er på række 3) skal jeg på alle pinde strikke 1 R, 3 vr - eller skal jeg gøre det omvendt på vrangsider - altså 1 vr, 3 R ?

15.01.2019 - 20:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gitte. Ja, når du strikker fra vrangen må du strikke motsatt. Om du tenker at du hele tiden skal strikke rett over rett, og vrang over vrang vil varngborden bli riktig (med unntak av 3 masker retstrikk i hver side). God fornøyelse.

23.01.2019 - 14:25

country flag Maj-Britt Höckert Notini wrote:

önskar klara av detta mönster

14.08.2018 - 11:05