Romania

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 19.00 RON /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 95.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Hello Kitten

The set consists of: Hat for baby with garter stitch, wave pattern and earflaps. Wrap-around jacket and trousers with garter stitch and lace pattern. Sizes premature – 4 years. The set is knitted in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Baby 29-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-072-by
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------
The whole set uses approx. (250) 250-300-300-350 (350-400) g DROPS Baby Merino.
-----------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head size:
approx. (28/32) 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g in all sizes in colour 26, light old pink

The piece can also be worked with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows of garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
-----------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Sizes in cm: (40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 150-150-150-150 (200-200) g colour 26, light old pink

The piece can also be worked in yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows of garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – edge and tie cord.
-----------------------------------------------------

TROUSERS:
Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Sizes in cm: (40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 150-150-150-150 (200-200) g colour 26, light old pink

The piece can also be worked in yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows of garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – tie cord.
----------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

More like this:
Baby Baby Cardigans Newborn Sets Baby Trousers & Shorts Baby Accessories Baby Hats Baby Bonnets assembly free bottom up garter stitch seamless sleeves top down v-neck wave pattern wrap-around

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 19.00 RON /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 95.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagram A.1.
Jacket: See diagram A.2.
Trousers: See diagram A.3.
The diagrams show all the rows in the patterns seen from the right side. Choose the diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for hat):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), work garter stitch until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for jacket):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch and A.2 (for the right front piece): Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch and A.2 (for the left front piece): Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3 (for the trousers):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, then knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 2 stitches (the marker sits between these 2 stitches) and then knit 2 stitches twisted together (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for the trousers):
Increase 2 stitches by making 1 yarn over on each side of 2 stitches, on the next round, the yarn overs are knitted twisted to prevent holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
The hat is worked back and forth, top down. Cast on (79) 89-99-103-107 (115-121) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Baby Merino. Work GARTER STITCH – see description above, until the piece measures 3 cm. Then work as follows: (25) 28-32-34-35 (39-42) stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over (29) 33-35-35-37 (37-37) stitches and work (25) 28-32-34-35(39-42) stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work in this way until the piece measures (14) 14-15-16-16 (18-19) cm. Work 2 ridges. On the next row from the right side, cast off for the earflaps as follows: Cast off the first (5) 8-10-10-9(11-12) stitches, knit the next (20) 20-22-24-26 (28-30) stitches (= first earflap) and place these stitches on a thread, cast off the next (29) 33-35-35-37 (37-37) stitches, knit over the next (20) 20-22-24-26 (28-30) stitches (= 2nd earflap) and place these stitches on a thread, cast off the last (5) 8-10-10-9 (11-12) stitches. Cut the strand.

EARFLAPS:
= (20) 20-22-24-26 (28-30) stitches. Place the stitches from one of the threads back on the needle, work garter stitch and decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece – READ DECREASE TIP-1, as follows: Decrease 1 stitch in each side of the piece every 4th row a total of (6) 6-5-5-6 (6-7) times and 1 stitch in each side of the piece every 2nd row a total of (2) 2-4-5-5 (6-6) times = 4 stitches. The earflap measure approx. (6) 6-6-6-7 (8-8) cm. Cast off and fasten the strand. Repeat on the other earflap.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sides together, sewing edge to edge in the outermost stitch. Fold the hat so that this seam is mid back and then sew the cast-on edge together the same way.

TIE CORD:
Cut 6 strands of approx. 60 cm and thread them halfway through the tip of the earflap, in other words, there will be 12 strands to plait. Plait 1 plait. Tie 1 knot at the bottom. Do the same in the other earflap.
---------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Start with one of the front pieces, cast on stitches for the sleeve and work up to the shoulder. Work the other front piece, work the 2 front pieces together and work down the back piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
LOOSELY cast on (34) 37-44-48-52 (55-62) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Baby Merino and work 3 RIDGES – see description above (first row = right side).
Work as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 over 6 stitches and work garter stitch to end of row. Continue pattern in this way until the piece measures (9) 12-16-16-17 (20-23) cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side.
Work 1 short row (starting from the right side) as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2, turn the piece, tighten the strand and work back from the wrong side as before. Turn the piece.

READ THE WHOLE OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! YOU CAST OFF FOR THE NECK AT THE SAME TIME AS YOU CAST ON STITCHES FOR THE SHOULDER/SLEEVE.
DECREASE FOR NECK:
Decrease 1 stitch for the neck inside 1 edge stitch and A.2 at the beginning of the row – READ DECREASE TIP-2.
Decrease in this way every 2nd row a total of (18) 18-22-24-26 (28-32) times, then decrease every 4th row a total of 2 times.
SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
When the piece measures (12) 15-19-20-21 (24-27) cm cast on new stitches at the end of each row from the right side (= towards the side) for the sleeve as follows: Cast on (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times and (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches a total of 1 time.
After all increases and decreases there are (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) stitches on the row for the shoulder/sleeve.

Continue with garter stitch and A.2 until the piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm – adjust so that you finish with the 4th row in A.2, now continue by working garter stitch over all stitches. Insert 1 marker = mid top of shoulder.
Cast on 2 new stitches at the end of the row towards the neck (= from the wrong side) a total of 2 times = (46) 56-67-74-83 (94-106) stitches (last row = wrong side). Place all the stitches on a thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
LOOSELY cast on (34) 37-44-48-52 (55-62) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Baby Merino and work 3 ridges (first row = right side).
Continue as follows from the right side: Work garter stitch until there are 7 stitches left on the needle, A.2 over 6 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue the pattern in this way until the piece measures (9) 12-16-16-17 (20-23) cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side.
Work 1 short row (starting from the wrong side) as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2, turn the piece, tighten the strand and work back from the right side. Turn the piece and work back from the wrong side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! YOU DECREASE FOR THE NECK AT THE SAME TIME AS YOU CAST ON STITCHES FOR THE SHOULDER/SLEEVE.
DECREASE FOR THE NECK:
Decrease 1 stitch for the neck before A.2 and 1 edge stitch at the end of the row.
Decrease in this way every 2nd row a total of (18) 18-22-24-26 (28-32) times, then decrease every 4th row a total of 2 times.
SHOULDER/SLEEVE:
When the piece measures (12) 15-19-20-21 (24-27) cm cast on new stitches at the end of each row from the wrong side (= towards the side) for the sleeve as follows: Cast on (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times and (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches a total of 1 time.
After all increases and decreases there are (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) stitches on the row for shoulder/sleeve.

Continue with garter stitch and A.2 until the piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm – adjust so that you finish with the 4th row in A.2, now continue by working garter stitch over all stitches. Insert 1 marker = mid top of shoulder.
Cast on 2 new stitches at the end of the row towards the neck (= from the right side) a total of 2 times = (46) 56-67-74-83 (94-106) stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.

BACK PIECE:
Knit over the left front piece from the right side (= (46) 56-67-74-83 (94-106) stitches), cast on (8) 8-10-10-12 (14-16) new stitches (= back of neck) and knit the right front piece on to the circular needle (= knit from the right side) = (100) 120-144-158-178 (202-228) stitches.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM THE MARKERS ON THE SHOULDERS.
Continue with garter stitch back and forth on the needle.
When the piece measures (6) 7-7-7½-8 (9-9) cm cast off sleeve stitches as follows: Cast off at the beginning of each row in each side of the piece as follows: (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches 1 time and (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times = (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm – fold the piece double at the markers on the shoulders and make sure that the front and back pieces are the same length – the loosely cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side and sleeve seams edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet with hook size 2.5 mm around the whole opening of the jacket as follows (from the right side):
Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 2 stitches/rows, 1 double crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* around the whole jacket, but in each of the corners (where the decreases for the neck start on the front pieces) work the tie cord as follows: 1 double crochet in the tip, work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in the tip of the front piece again. The round is finished with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.
Make 2 loose tie cords: Work chains for approx 20-25 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut the strand and make 1 more tie cord the same way. Fasten 1 tie cord on the inside on right side and 1 tie cord on the outside on the left side. Make sure to place the ties at the same height as the tie on the outside.
---------------------------------------------------------

TROUSERS:
The piece is worked in the round, top down. The round starts mid back.
Cast on (88) 96-104-120-128 (136-144) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Merino. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid back) and 1 marker after (44) 48-52-60-64 (68-72) stitches (= mid front).
Work rib as follows from mid back: knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with purl 2 and knit 1.
When the rib section measures 4 cm work a row of holes for the tie cord as follows: * knit 1, 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 2, 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* the whole round. Work 1 round of rib with knit 2 / purl 2.
Work an elevation at the back of the rib section as follows: Work (7) 7-9-9-9 (9-9) stitches, turn, tighten the strand, work (14) 14-18-18-18 (18-18) stitches back, turn, tighten the strand, work (20) 20-26-26-26 (26-26) stitches, turn, tighten the strand, work (26) 26-34-34-34 (34-34) stitches back. Continue in this way by working (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) more stitches each time you turn until you have worked a total of (50) 50-66-66-82 (82-82) stitches. Turn. Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work as follows from mid back: Work (17) 19-21-25-27 (29-31) stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, A.3 (= 10 stitches), work (34) 38-42-50-54 (58-62) stitches in garter stitch, A.3 over 10 stitches, work (17) 19-21-25-27 (29-31) stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures (10) 12-13-16-15 (16-17) cm mid front, increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 middle stitches at the front and back – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 2nd round a total of (8) 8-8-8-12 (12-12) times = (120) 128-136-152-176 (184-192) stitches.
When the piece measures (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm mid front (you should now have finished the increases) cast off stitches for the gusset on the next round of knit as follows: Start mid back and cast of the first (6) 6-6-6-8 (8-8) stitches, work garter stitch until there are (6) 6-6-6-8 (8-8) stitches left before the marker in front and cast off (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches, work garter stitch until there are (6) 6-6-6-8 (8-8) stitches left on the round, cast off the last (6) 6-6-6-8 (8-8) stitches. Place the stitches for one of the legs on a thread and finish each leg separately.

LEG:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
= (48) 52-56-64-72 (76-80) stitches. Divide the stitches on to 4 double pointed needles size 3 mm and insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= inside leg). Continue with garter stitch and A.3 in the side as before for (1) 1-1-2-2 (2-3) cm – adjust so that the next round is 1 round of knit.
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – READ DECREASE TIP-3, as follows:
SIZE PREMATURE - 12/18 MONTHS: On every 4th round.
SIZE 2 YEARS: On every 6th round.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: On every 8th round a total of (8) 10-10-12-12 (12-12) times = (32) 32-36-40-48 (52-56) stitches.
Work until the piece measures (24) 28-32-38-42 (48-55) cm, now continue with A.3 as before but the garter stitches are worked in rib with knit 2/purl 2 until the piece measures approx. (26) 30-34-40-44 (50-57) cm from the cast-on edge – adjust so that the last round is the 4th round in A.3. Work rib over all stitches until the piece measures (27) 31-35-41-45 (51-58) cm from cast-on edge. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Place the stitches from the other leg back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and work as for the first leg.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches cast off between the legs, to each other.

TIE CORD:
Crochet a tie cord on the waist with hook size 2.5 mm as follows: Work chain stitches for approx. 110 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch, cut and fasten the strand. Tread the tie cord through the holes made in the rib and tie it at the front.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= no stitch, skip this square
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= knit 2 stitches together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 stitches, pass the slipped stitch over
	= knit 3 stitches together

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Comments / Questions (67)

Marjolaine wrote:

Bonjour, je viens de finir le gilet, merci pour vos réponses toujours très rapides ! Mes coutures côtés sont très bien en revanche mes coutures sous les manches sont très laides, du au fait qu'on augmente 4 mailles par 4 mailles et que cela fait des escaliers... alors que de l'autre côté (celui où l'on rabat cela est plus joli) j'ai beau chercher je n'ai pas trouvé de solution de couture satisfaisante.... auriez vous une astuce ou un tuto ? Merci beaucoup !

05.12.2023 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marjolaine, pour la couture sous les manches, vous pouvez assembler les mailles en suivant l'une des 2 techniques que l'on montre dans cette vidéo. Bon tricot!

06.12.2023 - 08:19

Bonjour, je suis en train de réaliser le modèle en taille 1/3 mois et j\\\'arrive à la fin du devant droit. Vous dites qu\\\'il doit rester 52 mailles quand toutes les augmentations et diminutions sont faites mais j\\\'en compte 54 (37 mailles de montage -18 diminutions + 35 augmentations = 54) ou alors je fais une erreur quelque part ? \\r\\nMerci pour votre réponse ^^ marjolaine

21.11.2023 - 23:43

Bonjour Marjolaine, notez que la taille 1/3 mois est la 3ème taille, autrement dit vous devriez monter 44 mailles, les 37 mailles sont pour la taille 0/1 mois; vous montez ainsi 37 mailles et diminuez 20 mailles pour l'encolure (soit 18 fois tous les 2 rangs + 2 fois tous les 4 rangs) et montez 35 mailles au total = 52 mailles. Bon tricot!

22.11.2023 - 09:27

Judy Taylor wrote:

I can't get the image of the pattern, for A1, A2 or A3 to load. Can you help?

16.10.2023 - 17:05

Dear Mrs Taylor, it might have been a temporary bug, diagrams should be visible, try to refresh the page (with ctrl + F5 for example). Happy knitting!

17.10.2023 - 09:07

Ana wrote:

Puedo hacer el gorrito con agujas rectas?,. Gracias

29.01.2023 - 11:50

Hola Ana, en principio puedes usar agujas rectas. La aguja circular se utiliza para trabajar más cómodamente con un alto número de puntos.

29.01.2023 - 20:34

Bonnardel Danielle wrote:

Je pourrais avoir l'explication en français svp

30.11.2022 - 09:09

Bonjour Mme Bonnardel, volontiers, tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo pour changer la langue et ainsi trouver les explications en français. Bon tricot!

30.11.2022 - 11:50

Grete Rasmussen wrote:

Drops Baby 29-9 \\r\\nHue , Kan overhovedet ikke løse gåde ! \\r\\nJeg syr huen sammen , flette de 2stk snore ? Bindebånd ?\\r\\nSkal ørene bare stritte ud \\r\\nVh . Grete Rasmussen

10.09.2022 - 20:07

Natalie wrote:

Jeg er i gang med at strikke bukserne, og kan simpelthen ikke finde ud af om jeg stadig skal strikke rundt, efter ribben, eller om jeg skal strikke frem og tilbage?

08.03.2022 - 12:01

Hei Natalie. Når du skal strikke forhøyningen bak, strikkes det frem og tilbake over de maskene det står i oppskriften. Når forhøyningen er ferdig strikkes byttes det til rundpinne 3 og det strikkes rundt igjen. mvh DROPS Design

14.03.2022 - 10:34

Ghislain Francine wrote:

J'ai bien tricoté le bonnet, mais je n'arrive pas à le monter, comment faut-il procéder?

13.02.2022 - 16:33

Bonjour Francine, vous allez assembler le bonnet au milieu dos, autrement dit les côtés du bonnet doivent être cousus entre eux de haut en bas (du rang de montage jusqu'aux mailles rabattues), puis vous pliez le bonnet pour que cette couture soit au milieu dos du bonnet. Et vous assemblez maintenant les mailles du montage entre elles (comme pour une couture d'épaules). Bonne continuation!

14.02.2022 - 10:33

Plasman Dominique wrote:

Bonjour, encore une petite question concernant ce bonnet . Je dois terminer de tricoter A1 à 16 cm de hauteur (taille 1 an). Je mesure où ? (au milieu de mon tricot, à l'endroit le plus "long " du motif j'ai bien 16 cm, mais sur la partie centrale j'ai un cm de moins et sur les côtés, 2 cm de moins. A quel endroit dois je mesurer la hauteur avant de tricoter les 2 côtes mousse. Merci pour ce modèle et pour votre aide.

18.11.2021 - 16:47

Bonjour Mme Plasman, mesurez au plus court, la partie qui descend un peu sur le front - si vous en avez la possibilité, n'hésitez pas à essayer pour ajuster la longueur si besoin. bon tricot!

24.11.2021 - 09:53

Dominique Plasman wrote:

Bonjour, pour le bonnet j'ai bien tricoté 3 cm de points mousse après avoir monté les mailles. Sur la photo de votre modèle j'ai l'impression que ce bord mousse es beaucoup plus petit (2 cm ?) Je me trompe ? Cordialement

16.11.2021 - 12:25

Bonjour Mme Plasman, le bonnet se tricote de haut en bas, on ne voit pas vraiment bien les 3 premiers cm du haut sur la photo - il se termine par 2 côtes mousse (que l'on voit bien sur la photo côté front/visage, juste avant les cache-oreilles. Bon tricot!

16.11.2021 - 13:36