DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

So Charming

The baby set is made up of: Dress for Christening or special occasions, worked top down with raglan and open fan pattern in DROPS Safran. Crochet hat with flower squares and fan edge in DROPS Safran. Sizes 0 - 2 years.

DROPS Baby 29-3
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-075-by
Yarn group A
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DRESS:
Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2) years
Sizes in cm: 52/68 - 68/80 - 80/86 (92)
Full length:
35-40-44 (49) cm (dress of normal length)
67-72-76 (81) cm (long dress)
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200 (200) g colour 17, white (for dress of normal length)
350-400-450 (500) g colour 17, white (for long dress)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM – or the size needed to get 22 treble crochets in width and 8 textured rows in height on 10 x 10 cm.
A.1B measures 5.5 cm in width and rounds 1-4 in A.1B measure approx. 4 cm in height.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (white) NO 600: 3 items for all sizes.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 2.5-3 metres silk ribbon (approx. 15 mm wide).

HAT:
Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2) years
For head measurements: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50) cm
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100-100 (100) g colour 17, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 half treble crochets in width and 19.5 rows in height on 10 x 10 cm.
1 flower square measures 11 x 11 cm in sizes 0/6 + 6/12 + 12/18 months and 12 x 12 cm in size 2 years.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 1 metre silk ribbon (approx. 5 mm wide).
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DRESS:

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round/row of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. When working in the round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round. When working back and forth, finish the row with 1 double crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row of treble crochets.
At the beginning of each round/row of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. When working in the round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round. When working back and forth finish the row with 1 treble crochet in the chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row of double crochets.

TEXTURED ROWS
* 1 row/round double crochets, 1 row/round treble crochets *, repeat from *-* (1 row/round double crochets + 1 row/round treble crochets = 1 textured row).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 double crochet/treble crochet by working 2 double crochets/treble crochets in the same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
To work out how often you should increase on the round, count the total number of stitches on the round (e.g. 136 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 57) = 2.4. In this example, you increase approx. alternately every 2nd and 3rd stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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DRESS:
The piece is worked top down. It is worked back and forth from mid back until after the split mid back, then the piece is continued in the round to desired length (normal dress length or long dress) – see description in text.

YOKE:
Work 94-99-104 (104) chain stitches (including 1 stitch to turn) with hook size 3.5 mm and Safran. The first row is worked as follows: 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, * 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* until there are 0-1-2-2 chain stitches left and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the 0-1-2-2 last chain stitches = 70-74-78 (78) double crochets on the row.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece to raglan as follows (start mid back – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting the marker threads): Skip 10-11-12 (12) double crochets (= right back piece when the garment is worn), insert 1 marker thread in the next double crochet, skip 13 double crochets (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next double crochet, skip 20-22-24 (24) double crochets (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next double crochet, skip 13 double crochets (= sleeve) and insert the last marker thread in the next double crochet (there are now 10-11-12 (12) double crochets on the left back piece after the last marker thread.
READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
READ CROCHET INFO and work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in each double crochet, but in each double crochet with a marker thread work 2 treble crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 treble crochets = 82-86-90 (90) treble crochets on the row. 
Continue by working TEXTURED ROWS – see description above (work back and forth with 1 double crochet/treble crochet in each stitch from the previous row, but on every row with double crochet from the wrong side work 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row in the raglan lines). 
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side (i.e. row of treble crochets) increase to raglan as follows: Work 2 treble crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 treble crochets around each chain-space in each raglan line (= 16 treble crochets increased on the row – NOTE: Work around both chain-spaces). Repeat the increase on each row from the right side, a total of 4-5-5 (6) times = 146-166-170 (186) stitches on the row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
After the last increase to raglan work 1 row with double crochets from the wrong side as before (with 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row). 
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 20-23-24 (26) treble crochets (= right back piece), skip the next 33-37-37 (41) double crochets (= sleeve), work 8-6-10 (10) LOOSE chain stitches, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 40-46-48 (52) double crochets (= front piece), skip the next 33-37-37 (41) double crochets (= sleeve), work 8-6-10 (10) LOOSE chain stitches and work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 20-23-24 (26) double crochets (= left back piece).
The yoke is now finished and the piece is continued in the round.

BODY: 
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Start mid back with the right side out (beginning of the round = mid back) and work 1 round of double crochets (work 1 double crochet in each treble crochet from the previous round and 1 double crochet in each chain stitch under each sleeve – remember CROCHET INFO) = 96-104-116 (124) double crochets on the round. Now work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 treble crochet in each double crochet, but increase 6-4-4 (8) treble crochets evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP-1 and 2 = 102-108-120 (132) treble crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in each treble crochet.
ROUND 3 (= row of holes for the silk ribbon): * 1 treble crochet in the first/next double crochet, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 double crochets *, repeat from *-* the whole round = 34-36-40 (44) treble crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each treble crochet and 3 double crochets around each chain-space = 136-144-160 (176) double crochets.
ROUND 5: Work double crochet and increase 57-61-57 (53) double crochets evenly along the round = 193-205-217 (229) double crochets.
Continue by working pattern according to A.1, i.e. work A.1A over the first stitch, then work 16-17-18 (19) repeats of A.1B.
When rounds 1-5 have been completed once, repeat rounds 2-5 onwards until the piece measures approx. 23-28-32 (37) cm from the shoulder, if you are making the dress of normal length or until the piece measures approx. 35-40-44 (49) cm from the shoulder if you are making the long dress – NOTE: Adjust so that you finish after a complete repeat in height. Continue working as follows (follow the description for the dress of normal length or the long dress):

DRESS OF NORMAL LENGTH:
Now repeat rounds 2-5 in A.2A and A.2B in the same way until you have worked a total of 3 repeats in height of A.2 (or to desired length). Cut and fasten the strand. The dress measures approx. 35-40-44 (49) cm from the shoulder down.

LONG DRESS:
Now repeat rounds 2-5 in A.2A and A.2B in the same way until you have worked a total of 8 repeats in height of A.2 (or to desired length). Cut and fasten the strand. The long dress measures approx. 67-72-76 (81) cm from the shoulder down.

BOTH DRESSES:

SHAPING THE NECKLINE:
For a better fit you can work a small elevation at the back of the neck. Insert 1 marker thread in the stitch in each “corner” of the neck, i.e. at the start of each raglan line and insert 1 marker mid front.
Work with hook size 3.5 mm and Safran as follows: Start mid back and work 1 double crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with the marker thread, work 1 half treble crochet in the next stitch, 1 treble crochet in the stitch with the marker thread and 1 half treble crochet in the next stitch, continue by working 1 double crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with the marker thread, 1 half treble crochet in the next stitch, 1 treble crochet in the stitch with the marker thread and 1 half treble crochet in the next stitch, continue by working 1 double crochet in each stitch until there are 4-5-5 (5) stitches left before the marker mid front. Turn the piece and work 1 double crochet in each double crochet back to mid back, but by each marker thread work 3 double crochets together, i.e. work 1 double crochet in the half treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double crochet in the treble crochet stitch with the marker thread, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double crochet in the next half treble crochet, but now pull the last yarn over through all 4 stitches on the hook (= 2 double crochets decreased). Cut the strand and repeat from mid back to mid front and back again to mid back in the other side.

BUTTON BANDS AT THE BACK:
Work along the left opening mid back as follows: 1 double crochet around each double crochet row and 2 double crochet around each treble crochet row. Work a total of 4 rows of double crochets back and forth, cut and fasten the strand.
Along the right opening mid back work buttonholes as follows (start from the right side by the neckline): Work 3 double crochets (1 double crochet around the double crochet row and 2 double crochets around the treble crochet row), 4 chain stitches (= 1 buttonhole), skip approx. 1 cm, work double crochets to approx. the middle of the band, 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm, work double crochets until there is 1 cm left on the band, 4 chain stitches and fasten with 1 double crochet in the last stitch. Cut and fasten the strand. Fasten the buttons to the band on the left side.

PICOT EDGE AROUND NECK:
Work around the neck as follows: 1 double crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip 2 stitches, 1 double crochet in the next stitch*, repeat from *-* the whole row, cut and fasten the strand.

FAN EDGE AROUND THE SLEEVE:
Work around the sleeve opening as follows: 1 double crochet in each of the 8-6-10 (10) stitches mid under the sleeve and 1 double crochet in each of the 33-37-37 (41) double crochets over the sleeve = 41-43-47 (51) double crochets on the round. Continue by working as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 treble crochet in each double crochet, but increase 1-5-1 (0) treble crochets evenly along the round = 42-48-48 (51) treble crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in each treble crochet.
ROUND 3 (= row of holes for the silk ribbon): * 1 treble crochet in the first/next double crochet, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 double crochets *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 14-16-16 (17) treble crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each treble crochet and 3 double crochets around each chain-space, but 7-3-3 (7) times on the round, work only 2 double crochets around the chain-space = 49-61-61 (61) double crochets.
Continue working pattern in the round according to diagrams A.1A and A.1B in the same way as on the body = 4-5-5 (5) fans on the round. When rounds 1-5 have been completed once, cut and fasten the strand. Repeat around the other sleeve.

SILK RIBBON:
Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of holes under the yoke – start and finish mid front and tie a bow mid front.
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HAT:

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round of half treble crochets, replace the first half treble crochet with 2 chain stitches, the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches, the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3 and A.4.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on the hook), then work the next double crochet, but when you make the last pull through, pull the strand through all the loops on the hook – you have now decreased 1 double crochet.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 half treble crochet by working 2 half treble crochets in the same stitch.
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HAT:
The hat is made up of 3 flower squares which are sewn together in a row. Then you work a circle which becomes the back of the hat and which is sewn to the hat itself. Then you work an edge at the bottom of the hat before working a fan edge at the front.

FLOWER SQUARE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm and Safran and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue working in the round according to diagram A.3 – READ CROCHET INFO AND REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
When A.3 has been completed there are 22 half treble crochets on each of the sides and 2 chain stitches in each corner. The square measures approx. 11 x 11 cm and is finished now in sizes 0/6 + 6/12 + 12/18 months. Cut and fasten the strand in these sizes. In size 2 years work one more round as described below.

SIZE (2) YEARS:
Work 2 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 half treble crochet), continue by working 1 half treble crochet in each half treble crochet from the previous round (around the chain-space in the corner work 2 half treble crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 half treble crochets), finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. There are now 26 half treble crochets along each side and 2 chain stitches in each corner. The square now measures approx.12 x 12 cm. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work 2 more flower squares for all sizes. Place the 3 squares in a row and sew them together, two and two with small neat stitches – sew with a stitch in each stitch.

CIRCLE AT THE BACK OF THE HAT (this part will be sewn onto the squares):
Work 4 chain stitches and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue as follows – READ CROCHET INFO and INCREASE TIP:
ROUND 1: 9 half treble crochet around the ring.
ROUND 2: 2 half treble crochets in each stitch = 18 half treble crochets.
ROUND 3: * 1 half treble crochet in the first/next stitch, 2 half treble crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 27 half treble crochets.
ROUND 4: * 1 half treble crochet in each of the first/next 2 stitches, 2 half treble crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 36 half treble crochets.
ROUND 5: * 1 half treble crochet in the first/next stitch, 2 chain stitches, skip 1 stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 18 half treble crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 6: * 2 half treble crochets around the first/next chain-space, 1 half treble crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 54 half treble crochets.
ROUND 7: * 1 half treble crochet in each of the first/next 5 stitches, 2 half treble crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 63 half treble crochets.
ROUND 8: * 1 half treble crochet in each of the first/next 6 stitches, 2 half treble crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 72 half treble crochets.
ROUND 9: * 1 half treble crochet in each of the first/next 7 stitches, 2 half treble crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 81 half treble crochets. Size 0/6 months finishes here (the piece measures approx. 10 cm in diameter).
ROUND 10: * 1 half treble crochet in each of the first/next 8 stitches, 2 half treble crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 90 half treble crochets.
ROUND 11: * 1 half treble crochet in each of the first/next stitch, 2 chain stitches, skip 1 stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 45 half treble crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 12: Work 2 half treble crochets around each chain-space = 90 half treble crochets. Sizes 6/12 + 12/18 months finish here (the piece measures approx. 12 cm in diameter).

SIZE (2) YEARS:
ROUND 13: * 1 half treble crochet in each of the first/next 9 stitches, 1 half treble crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 99 half treble crochets. Size (2) years finishes here (the piece measures approx. 13 cm in diameter).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the one long side of the row of squares to the circle, with 1 stitch in each stitch – make sure the seam is not tight. There will be an opening at the bottom of the hat of 9-18-18 (15) stitch.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HAT:
Start from the right side with 1 slip stitch in the outermost corner of the row of squares and then work along the whole of the bottom edge of the hat with 1 double crochet in each stitch = 57-66-66 (71) double crochets, turn the piece. Continue working 0-0-1 (2) rows of 1 half treble crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-0-0 (1) half treble crochet evenly spaced = 57-66-66 (72) half treble crochets. Work 1 row of treble crochets (work 1 treble crochet in each stitch). Finally work 0-0-1 (2) rows of half treble crochets and 1 row of double crochet. Cut and fasten the strand.

FAN EDGE IN THE FRONT OF THE HAT:
Start from the wrong side in the bottom corner at the front of the hat and work as follows – remember CROCHET INFO:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): 1 slip stitch in the outermost stitch, 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 treble crochet), continue by working 1 treble crochet in each stitch/row/row of half treble crochets, 2 treble crochets around each treble crochet row at the bottom of the hat and 1 treble crochet around each chain-space in the corners of the squares = approx. 80-80-84 (100) stitches, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work a row of double crochets where the number of stitches is adjusted to 81-81-81 (99) stitches (divisible by 6 + 3) – READ DECREASE TIP/INCREASE TIP.
Then work fan edge according to A.4. When A.4 has been completed, cut the strand and fasten it.

Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of treble crochets at the bottom of the hat and all the way to the fan edge.
If you would like further decoration, you can thread silk ribbon up and down through the treble crochet row at the front of the hat as well. This silk ribbon is not tied, so the ends need to be folded in and fastened on the wrong side of the piece.

Diagram

symbols = this round is described in the text
symbols = the round starts with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet in the top of picot
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = 1 picot: 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the first chain stitch worked
symbols = 1 picot: 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the first chain stitch worked
symbols = treble crochet around chain-space
symbols = treble crochet in stitch from previous round
symbols = the round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round
symbols = double crochet worked in this treble crochet
symbols = 4 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch (the round starts and ends at point)
symbols = slip stitch in stitch
symbols = the round starts with 1 double crochet in the first double crochet from the beginning of the previous round, but work behind last round. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet
symbols = double crochet in stitch, but work behind the last round (the chain-row worked on this round should be behind the leaf from previous round).
symbols = the round starts with 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet around first chain stitch/chain-space and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet from beginning of the round
symbols = half treble crochet in stitch/around chain-space
symbols = 1 double crochet + 1 half treble crochet + 1 treble crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 treble crochet + 1 half treble crochet + 1 chain stitch around first/next chain stitch
symbols = 3 treble crochets + 1 chain stitch + 3 treble crochets in same double crochet
symbols = the round starts with 3 chain stitches + 3 treble crochets + 1 chain stitch + 4 treble crochets in first stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
symbols = 4 treble crochets + 1 chain stitch + 4 treble crochets in same double crochet
symbols = double treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches, bend the treble crochet group forwards and allow the chain-space to lie behind the treble crochet group
symbols = 5 chain stitches, bend the treble crochet group forwards and allow the chain-space to lie behind the treble crochet group
symbols = 1 double treble crochet around chain stitch in middle of treble crochet group from the 4th round
symbols = 1 picot: Work 1 double crochet around first/next chain stitch, 2 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch worked
symbols = this row is the last row on the hat before A.4
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (80)

country flag Aneta wrote:

Mamma mia proprio non riesco comminciare non capisco niente. Poi ho filo piu fino ...😭

12.02.2021 - 00:20

DROPS Design answered:

Możemy pisać po polsku? Nie znam włoskiego niestety

12.02.2021 - 09:38

country flag Maria wrote:

Kjolen. Jeg er nået til ryg og forstykke og er i tvivl om, om jeg skal hækle tilbage med fastmasker eller jeg skal hoppe over på højre bagstykke og hækle videre derfra? Håber I forstår 🙏🏻

03.01.2021 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maria, ikke helt sikker på hvad du mener. Men du skal nu hækle med start fra midt bagpå, og hækle 1 omgang fastmasker hele vejen rundt fra retsiden inden du følger opskriften fra 1.OMG God fornøjelse!

14.01.2021 - 13:31

country flag Sandra Torchia wrote:

I am having great difficulty with the chart. The row 1 appears to have “1 picot: 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked” the chart show this stitch between two single crochets in the previous row. How do you do that?

18.10.2020 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Torchia, could you please tell us which diagram you are talking about? I'm not sure to understand what you mean here sorry. Thanks for your comprehension.

19.10.2020 - 09:34

country flag Maren wrote:

Hei, jeg har litt problemer med å forstå starten når det kommer til trådmarkeringene? er det noen som har bilde eller video av hvordan/hvor de settes, for det jeg har prøvd ser ikke riktig ut.

12.09.2020 - 00:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maren. Litt usikker på hva du mener. Når du hekler bærestykket og har 70-74-78 (78) fm på raden, settes det 4 merketråder. Tell de maskene som står i oppskriften og sett et merke i de aktuelle maskene. I de maskene med merketråd skal det økes til raglan. Fremdeles problemer, send oss en ny melding og da gjerne hvilken str du hekler og mer nøyaktig problemstilling. God Fornøyelse!

14.09.2020 - 10:30

country flag Joy Niklas wrote:

Making the hat. The edging instructions say to increase half doubles evenly spaced, but the total number of stitches does not change. What should the total be? Thanks.

11.09.2020 - 03:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Niklas, in the first 2 sizes, there is no increrase on this row, that's the reason why the number of sts is the same at the end of this row (you increase only in the 3rd and 4th size). Happy crocheting!

11.09.2020 - 08:12

country flag Ditte wrote:

Hej! Jeg er lidt forvirret over det tegn i A.1A som række 2 og 3 starter med. Jeg synes ikke at jeg finder en helt magen til i beskrivelsen? Mvh. Ditte

03.08.2020 - 20:11

country flag Jennifer wrote:

Hi, just double checking, but we are increasing 57 every time we repeat round 5?

03.08.2020 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jennifer, no, these 57 increases will be worked only once, ie when you work the round 5 - then work A.1A at the beg of round + repeat A.1B a total of 16 times in the round to the end. Happy crocheting!

04.08.2020 - 09:27

country flag Svava wrote:

Hvað á heklið að mælast þegar búið er að auka 70 - 146 lykkjur í 0-6 manaða stærðinni til að sjá hvort að hekl flestan sé rétt?

28.07.2020 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Blessuð Svava. Mælingar passa við mælingu sem gefin er upp í mynsturteikningu í mælistikunni þegar þú mælir frá öxl og niður, svo fylgdu þeim 😊

30.07.2020 - 12:40

country flag Sandra wrote:

Kjolen 0-6 mrd: Jeg starter med at hækle 94 lm. 1 fastmaske i 2 lm. Og så 1 fastmaske i hver af de 3 næste luftmasker, spring over 1 luftmaske, rækken ud. Når jeg hækler de sidste 3 fm får jeg 1 lm tilbage, som jeg ikke ved hvad jeg skal gøre ved? Med den får jeg 71 fm og ikke 70. Jeg har talt og talt, og bliver ved med at få 71 fm. Hvad gør jeg forkert? Mvh Sandra

19.07.2020 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sandra, det er svært at vide hvor det går galt, men du må prøve at flytte en af fm, så du får 70, ellers vil resten af mønstret ikke stemme :)

31.07.2020 - 09:41

country flag Pia Vind wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke diagram A.1B. Hvordan skal række 2,3,4 og 5 forståes?

25.05.2020 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia, 2. række starter du med lm ifølge diagrammet hækler 1 fm i toppen af picot, 5 lm, 1 fm i toppen af picot, 5 lm osv. 3. række starter du med lm ifølge diagrammet, 1 fm om lm-buen, 8 stangmasker om lm-buen, 1 fm om næste lm-bue, 6 lm, 1fm om næste lm-bue og så 8 st om næste lm-bue igen osv... God fornøjelse!

27.05.2020 - 13:40