DROPS Baby / 29 / 5

My Sweetie by DROPS Design

Baby onesie for Christening or special occasions, worked top down with raglan and textured rows crocheted in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Sizes 0 - 2 years.

Tags: overalls, top down,

DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-014-by
Yarn group A
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Sizes: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Sizes in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250 (300) g colour 1101, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 treble crochets in width and 9 textured rows in height (1 textured row = 1 row double crochets + 1 row treble crochets) on 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 5-6-7 (8) items.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 1.5 metres silk ribbon (approx. 5 mm wide).
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Comments (20)

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
TIP:
The onesie in the text is described with the opening and button band at the back and a row of holes for the decorative ribbon mid front, but onesies are the same front and back and can therefore be used both ways, either with the opening at the back or at the front (as shown in the photo). If you choose the opening at the front, you can work a textured row over the middle 6 stitches mid back if you do not want the row of holes.

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each row with double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. The row finishes with 1 double crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row of treble crochets.
At the beginning of each row with treble crochets the first treble crochet is replaced with 3 chain stitches. The row finishes with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row of double crochets.

TEXTURED ROWS:
* 1 row double crochets, 1 row treble crochets *, repeat from *-* (1 row double crochets + 1 row treble crochets = 1 textured row).

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 double crochet/treble crochet by working 2 double crochets/treble crochets in the same stitch.

PATTERN-1:
See diagram A.1. When rows 1-3 have been completed one time in height, you repeat rows 2 and 3 onwards.

PATTERN-2:
See diagram A.2.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 double crochet/treble crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on the hook), then work the next double crochet/treble crochet, but when working the last pull through, pull the strand through all the loops on the hook (1 double crochet/treble crochet decreased).
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ONESIE:
The piece is worked back and forth and top down from mid back – READ TIP.

YOKE:
Work 77-77-81 (85) chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn) with hook size 3 mm and BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, then work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch to the end of the row = 76-76-80 (84) double crochets on the row.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece for the raglan as follows (start at the opening – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting the marker threads): Skip the first 12-12-13 (14) double crochets (= right back piece when piece is worn), insert 1 marker thread in the next double crochet, skip the next 12 double crochets (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next double crochet, skip the next 12-12-13 (14) double crochets, insert 1 marker before the next double crochet (= mid front), skip 12-12-13 (14) double crochets (these 24-24-26 (28) double crochets = front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next double crochet, skip 12 double crochets (= sleeve) and insert the last marker thread in the next double crochet (there are now 12-12-13 (14) double crochets on the left back piece after the last marker thread).
READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
READ CROCHET INFO and work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in each double crochet, but in each double crochet with a marker thread work 2 treble crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 treble crochets = 88-88-92 (96) treble crochets on the row.
Continue by working TEXTURED ROWS – see description above (work back and forth with 1 double crochet/treble crochet in each stitch from the previous row, but on each row with double crochet from the wrong side, work 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row in the raglan lines). In addition, work PATTERN-1 – see description above, over the middle 6 stitches mid front arrow in diagram A.1 marks the marker mid front). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side (i.e. the row with treble crochets) increase to raglan as follows: Work 2 treble crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 treble crochets around the chain-space in each raglan line (= 16 treble crochets increased on the row – NOTE: Work around both chain spaces). Repeat the increases on every row from the right side a total of 1-2-3 (4) times and then every other row from the right side a total of 2 times in all sizes = 136-152-172 (192) stitches on the row.
After the last increase to raglan work 1 row with double crochets from the wrong side as before. 
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 20-22-25 (28) double crochets (= right back piece), skip the next 28-32-36 (40) double crochets (= sleeve), work 8-8-8 (6) chain stitches, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 40-44-50 (56) double crochets (= front piece), skip the next 28-32-36 (40) double crochet (= sleeve), work 8-8-8 (6) chain stitches and work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 20-22-25 (28) double crochets (= left back piece).
You have now worked a total of 7-8-9 (10) textured rows from the cast-on edge, the piece measures approx. 11-12-13 (14) cm from the shoulder and the yoke is finished. Work body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
The first row is worked from the wrong side – work 1 double crochet in each treble crochet from the previous row and 1 double crochet in each of the 8-8-8 (6) chain stitches under each armhole = 96-104-116 (124) double crochets on the row. Continue back and forth with textured rows and A.1 as before – remember CROCHET INFO! When the piece measures approx. 24-30-32 (36) cm from the neck (i.e. approx. 27-33-35 (39) cm from the shoulder) – adjust so that the last row is 1 row of treble crochets from the right side, finish both the opening for the band mid back and A.1 mid front. Insert 1 marker in the outermost stitch at the beginning and end of the row to mark the band’s opening. Continue back and forth with textured rows over all stitches.
When the piece measures 29-35-39 (43) cm from the neck (and approx. 32-38-42 (46) cm from the shoulder) divide it for the legs and each leg is finished separately.

LEG: 
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the row – MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! 
Continue with textured rows, back and forth over the first 48-52-58 (62) stitches on the row (i.e. half of the stitches).
When the leg measures 2-2-3 (3) cm from the marker, decrease 1 double crochet/treble crochet in each side – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat the decrease every 1½-2-2 (2½) cm a total of 7-7-8 (8) times = 34-38-42 (46) stitches. When the leg measures 14-17-20 (25) cm from the marker at the division, work double crochets back and forth over all stitches for 4 cm. Cut and fasten the strand. The leg measures approx. 18-21-24 (29) cm and the whole of the suit measures approx. 50-59-66 (75) cm from the shoulder.
Work the other leg in the same way.

SLEEVE:
= 28-32-36 (40) stitches. Insert 1 marker –THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
The first row is worked from the wrong side as follows: Work 4-4-4 (3) chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in each stitch and work 6-6-6 (5) chain stitches. Turn the piece, work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 2-2-2 (1) chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in each double crochet from the previous row and 1 treble crochet in each of the 4-4-4 (3) chain stitches from the beginning of the previous row = 36-40-44 (46) stitches on the row. Continue by working textured rows back and forth as before. AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 3 cm from the marker in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch in each side – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat the decreases every 6-4-3½ (4½) cm a total of 2-3-4 (4) times = 32-34-36 (38) stitches. When the sleeve measures 13-15-17 (21) cm from the marker by the armhole, work double crochets back and forth over all stitches for 4 cm. Cut and fasten the strand. The sleeve measures approx. 17-19-21 (25 cm) from the marker.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve seams edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. Sew the openings under the sleeves. If necessary, turn up the bottoms of the sleeves and legs. Sew the opening mid back from the marker where the band ends and down to the division of the legs – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

RIGHT BAND:
Start from the wrong side at the bottom of the right back piece and work PATTERN-2, i.e. work as follows: 1 double crochet around the outermost treble crochet, * work 2 treble crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 treble crochets around the next treble crochet, 1 double crochet around the next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* up along the right back piece to the neck and finish with 1 slip stitch in the corner by the neck. Turn the piece and work back as follows from the right side: 1 chain stitch (equivalent to 1 double crochet), continue by working * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around the chain-space in the middle of the treble crochet group *, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the last double crochet. Cut and fasten the strands. Fasten the band at the bottom by the division. 

LEFT BAND AND NECKLINE:
Work the first row as for the right band, but start from the right side at the bottom of the left back piece and work as for the right band up to the neck, but instead of finishing with 1 slip stitch in the corner, continue the edge around the neck as follows: work 1 double crochet in each stitch along the neck until there are 3 stitches left before the first stitch with marker thread in it (raglan line), skip these 3 stitches and work 4 treble crochets in the stitche with marker thread, skip the next 3 stitches and continue with double crochets in each stitch until there are 3 left before the next stitch with marker thread in it (raglan line), skip these 3 stitches and work 4 treble crochets in the stitche with marker thread. Continue in this way around the neck and finish with 1 slip stitch outermost on the row, turn the piece and work the next row as follows from the wrong side (around the neck): * 1 double crochet in the first/next stitch, 3 chain stitches, skip 2 double crochets *, repeat from *-* as far as the corner before the band, then work down the band as for the right band. Cut and fasten the strands.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the right band. NOTE: The buttons are buttoned through the chain-spaces on the left band - start with 1 button in the top chain-space, then there should be 1 button in every other chain-space downwards.
Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of holes in A.1 along mid front (start and stop by the neck and finish with a bow by the neck). If the suit is to be used with the opening in front, you can thread the silk ribbon between the treble crochets mid front (see photo).

Diagram

= first row is described in the text
= 1 repeat in height
= chain stitch
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain-space
= treble crochet in stitch
= middle

Comments (20)

Leave your comment!

Chris Bassett 03.02.2019 - 23:04:

Is it just me or does the increasing on the yoke of the pattern NOT add up. Following the instructions I end up with 140 sts. have I missed a decrease of 4 somewhere.

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 14:02:

Dear Mrs Basset, in 1st size you start with 88 sts, then increase 16 sts a total of 3 times in total = 88 + (3x16) = 136 sts. Happy crocheting!

Christel 27.10.2018 - 22:19:

Hej. Jag förstår inte hur det u första ökningen bara ökar med 12m. Jag har 5 märken och skall öka vid 4. Då blir det 76+16=92 Vad gör jag fel?

DROPS Design 30.10.2018 kl. 11:21:

Hej, i varje av de 4 maskor, virkas 2st+2lm+2st (1 har du redan) dvs att du ökar 3 maskor x 4 = 12+76=88. Lycka till :)

Eva 28.08.2018 - 12:19:

Dere har så flotte modeler, men så dårlig måte å skrive oppskriftene på. Så synd :-(

Shaimaa 24.07.2018 - 22:39:

Hi, im list from the part "Repeat the increases on every row from the right side a total of 1-2-3 (4) times and then every other row from the right side a total of 2 times in all sizes = 136-152-172 (192) stitches on the row." Im skipping the A.1 as i want the front opening. How many repeats in total with increases. ive reached to total rows 6 + the row after the increase total 7 not 8. With 168 sts not 152. Ive done it many times & i still get it wrong

DROPS Design 25.07.2018 kl. 08:34:

Dear Shaimaa, you first have 16 sts, then increase 12 sts = 88 sts, then inc for the raglan 16 sts a toatl of 2 sts and 16 sts a total of 2 sts = 88 + 16x2 + 16x2 = 152 sts. Happy crocheting!

Jackie 12.07.2018 - 23:45:

Jag får inte mask antalet att stämma från början, de står 77(76fm) första varvet, så långt är det ju ok, men sen ska man öka i varje markör 2st+2fm+2st, och detta ska bli 88 maskor, 4 markörer =16ökade maskor, 76+16=92, inte 88, vet inte hur jag ska få de rätt?

DROPS Design 19.07.2018 kl. 08:46:

Hei Jackie. Når du hekler 2 st + 2 fm + 2 st i hver st med merke øker du 3 staver. Du hekler 4 staver, men siden du hekler dem i 1 stav allerede er det bare 3 av dem som er økinger. Det økes derfor 12 masker på omgangen. 76 + 12 = 88. God fornøyelse.

Jackie 12.07.2018 - 22:56:

Strukturvarven, de står att ett varv fasta+1varv stolpar=1 struktur varv, men de står även upprepa, innebär det att man ska göra två varv varje gång?

DROPS Design 19.07.2018 kl. 08:45:

Hei Jackie. Når det refereres til «strukturrad» betyr dette begge radene (1 rad fm, 1 rad st). God fornøyelse

Jackie 12.07.2018 - 22:43:

"Upprepa ökningen på varje varv från rätsidan totalt 1-2-3 (4) ggr och sedan på vartannat varv från rätsidan totalt 2 ggr i alla stl = 136-152-172 (192) maskor på varvet. Efter sista ökningen till raglan virkas det 1 varv med fastmaskor från avigsidan som förut. " Betyder det tre struktur varv var av ett är utan ökning? Hur virkar jag det varvet utan ökning ? Och gör jag sista varvet med fastamaskor utan luftmaskbåge?

DROPS Design 19.07.2018 kl. 08:44:

Hei Jackie. Det stemmer at når øker på annenhver omgang fra retten 2 ganger hekler du 3 strukturrader, der den midterste av dem er uten økning. Når du ikke øker hekler du som forklart under STRUKTURRADER: 1 rad fm, 1 rad staver. Den siste raden med fastmasker (etter raglanen) inkluderer luftmaskebuer som før. God fornøyelse.

Karollne 23.04.2018 - 16:23:

Hvor i ermehullet skal jeg begynne med de 4 luftmaskene?

DROPS Design 24.04.2018 kl. 11:44:

Hej, Du hækler fra under ærmet, i de masker du hoppede over da du fortsatte med bolen. God fornøjelse!

Karoline 22.04.2018 - 22:43:

Mangler det en setning i begynnelsen av oppskriften på ermet? Jeg forstår ikke hvor i «ermehullet» jeg skal begynne...

DROPS Design 24.04.2018 kl. 11:46:

Hej igen, start med en kædemaske så tråden sidder fast i første maske midt under ærmet. God fornøjelse!

Salvo 18.02.2018 - 18:30:

Salve il non ho capito questa parte: lavorare il motivo-1 – vedere le spiegazioni sopra, sulle 6 maglie al centro sul davanti; la freccia nel diagramma A.1 coincide con il segno al centro sul davanti)

DROPS Design 18.02.2018 kl. 19:33:

Buonasera Salvo. Sulle tre maglie che precedono e che seguono il segno che ha messo al centro sul davanti, deve lavorare il diagramma A.1. La freccia coincide con il segno. Buon lavoro!

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