DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 6.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Orange Dream Top

Top knitted top down with raglan, lace pattern on yoke and A-shape in DROPS Safran. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 178-45
DROPS design: Pattern e-255
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 28, orange

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges in garter stitch.
----------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 6.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

ELEVATION:
Work as follows from beginning of round (= mid back), knit the first 7-7-7-8-8-8 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and knit 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and knit 21-21-21-24-24-24 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and knit 28-28-28-32-32-32 stitches. Continue back and forth like this by working 7-7-7-8-8-8 stitches more every time until the middle 70-70-70-80-80-80 stitches has been worked, turn and work back until beginning of round before continuing.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 104 stitches) and divide number of stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 5.2. In this example increase after approx. every 5th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next round purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before A.1, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, A.1 (marker thread is in the middle of A.1), knit 2, make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between sleeves and body. Knit the increased stitches until they fit the pattern.
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS WHEN INCREASING 2 STITCHES ON EACH SIDE OF STITCH WITH MARKER THREAD:
Begin before stitch with marker thread, pick up loop before stitch and knit loop twisted, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), make 1 yarn over, pick up loop before next stitch and knit loop twisted (= 4 stitches increased). On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS WHEN INCREASING 1 STITCH ON EACH SIDE OF STITCH WITH MARKER THREAD:
Begin before stitch with marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes.

KNITTING TIP:
When increasing for raglan on every 4th round, the holes in raglan line will be further apart than when increasing on every other round. To avoid this work holes on the rounds (every other round) without increase as follows:
Begin 2 stitches before stitch with marker thread, knit 2 tog, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes.

----------------------------------------------------------

TOP:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeve edges in the round on double pointed needles. Beginning of round = mid back.

YOKE:
Cast on 104-104-104-124-124-124 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Safran. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 20 stitches evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 124-124-124-144-144-144 stitches. Purl 1 round.
For better fit work a small ELEVATION at the back of neck - see explanation above. When elevation has been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 2 rounds.
Insert 4 marker threads in piece, begin from beginning of round (without working the stitches): Insert first marker thread in 21st-21st-21st-26th-26th-26th stitch on round, insert second marker thread in 42nd-42nd-42nd-47th-47th-47th stitch on needle, insert third in 83rd-83rd-83rd-98th-98th-98th stitch on needle and insert fourth marker thread in 104th-104th-104th-119th-119th-119th stitch on needle. There are now 40-40-40-50-50-50 stitches between stitches with marker thread on front and back piece and 20 stitches in all sizes on each sleeve.
Work next round as follows: Work A.1 (= 5 stitches) over the next 20-20-20-25-25-25 stitches on half back piece (= 4-4-4-5-5-5 repetitions of 5 stitches), increase 2 stitch on each side of stitch with marker thread for RAGLAN – see explanation above, work A.1 over the 20 stitches on sleeve (= 4 repetitions of 5 stitches), increase 2 stitches on each side of stitch with marker thread, work A.1 over the 40-40-40-50-50-50 stitches on front piece (= 8-8-8-10-10-10 repetitions of 5 stitches), increase 2 stitches on each side of stitch with marker thread, work A.1 over the 20 stitches on sleeve, increase 2 stitches on each side of stitch with marker thread, work A.1 over the next 20-20-20-25-25-25 stitches on half back piece.

Continue pattern and increase for raglan in every transition between body and sleeves as follows:
Increase 2 stitches on each side of stitches with marker thread on every other round 6-6-6-8-8-10 times in total (first increase is already done), then increase 1 stitch on each side of stitches with marker threads every other round 8-8-8-9-9-10 times in total. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When increase has been done 14-14-14-17-17-20 times in total, there are 284-284-284-344-344-384 stitches on round and piece measures approx. 10-10-10-12-12-14 cm from cast-on edge (measured mid front). Then knit the stitches. AT THE SAME TIME continue increase for raglan and increase 1 stitch on each side of stitches with marker threads every other round 0-7-12-4-13-12 times in total and then every 4th round 6-4-3-7-4-5 times in total – READ KNITTING TIP. After last increase for raglan there are 332-372-404-432-480-520 stitches on round and piece measures approx. 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm from cast-on edge (measured mid front).
Work next round as follows: Work the first 47-52-56-62-68-73 stitches as before (= half back piece), slip the next 72-82-90-92-104-114 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-13-15 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 94-104-112-124-136-146 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 72-82-90-92-104-114 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 7-7-9-9-13-15 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 47-52-56-62-68-73 stitches as before. Finish body and sleeves separately. Remove the marker threads in piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 202-222-242-266-298-322 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 7-7-9-9-13-15 stitches cast on under each sleeve and move the marker threads upwards when working. Continue in stocking stitch in the round, in addition work A.1 over the middle 5 stitches in each side (stitch with marker thread is middle stitch in A.1). When piece measures 3 cm, increase 2 stitches in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6-6-6-5-5-4 cm 5-5-5-6-6-7 times in total = 222-242-262-290-322-350 stitches. When piece measures 32 cm, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 3 ridges over all stitches. Switch back to circular needle size 3 mm and cast off by knitting. Top measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Slip the 72-82-90-92-104-114 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 7-7-9-9-13-15 stitches cast on under sleeve = 79-89-99-101-117-129 stitches on needle. Work 3 ridges in the round. Switch back to double pointed needles size 3 mm and cast off by knitting. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit the yarn over to make holes.
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Orange Dream Top

Cora, Germany

178-45 Orange Dream Top

Irina, United States

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 178-45

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Claudia wrote:

Beim Stricken der Erhöhung ergeben sich bei mir unschöne Löcher - warum ist das so? Habe recherchiert und bin auf das Stricken von Doppelmaschen gekommen, die hier aber gar nicht erwähnt werden. Wird das einfach vorausgesetzt, dass man das weiß oder wurde darauf vergessen es zu erwähnen? Schade drum, jetzt muss ich nochmal neu beginnen!

25.08.2023 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, für die Erhöhung wird die Technick von Doppelmaschen nicht benutzt - die verkürzten Reihen werden mit dieser Technick gestrickt, dh wenden, Faden ziehen um ein Loch zu vermeiden und weiter stricken - aber gerne können Sie damit stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.08.2023 - 13:12

country flag Sheila wrote:

If I have 144 stitches when I switch to 3mm needles and place markers at the26th, 98th, 119th stitch I have 21 and 51 stitches between not the 20 and 50 mentioned in the pattern..I am new to circular knitting can you help me please, I am obviously misinterpreting the pattern. With thanks

18.06.2023 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sheila, you should have: 25 stitches, marker in next stitch, 20 stitches, marker in next stitch, 50 stitches, marker in next stitch, 20 stitches, marker in next stitch. There should be 25 stitches left after the last marker. In total : 140 stitches + 4 stitches with markers= 144 stitches. Happy knitting!

18.06.2023 - 19:53

country flag Betty Coussens wrote:

Hierbij mijn antwoord op jullie respons (in het Engels) op mijn vraag gesteld op 3 mei. Deze vraag is gesteld in het Nederlands. Ik woon echter in Portugal. Vandaar dat ik als land Portugal had opgegeven.

04.05.2023 - 23:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Betty,

Je vraag was inderdaad over het hoofd gezien, omdat het land als Portugal stond ingesteld. Hierbij het antwoord: je neemt de lus op tussen 2 steken, deze zet je op de linker naald en dan brei je deze lus gedraaid. Vlak daarna maak je ook nog een omslag. Door de lus gedraaid te breien is er 1 steek gemeerderd en door de omslag te maken is er nog een steek gemeerderd. (De omslag brei je op de volgende naald normaal)

<

08.05.2023 - 20:59

country flag Betty Coussens wrote:

Ik begrijp niet hoe ik aan beide kanten van de markeerdraad 2 steken moet meerderen voor de raglan. Ik heb al allerhande varianten geprobeerd (lus tussen de 2 steken, onder de steek, manier van insteken) maar ik slaag er niet om het juiste resultaat te bekomen. Ik vind ook geen passend videofilmpje als hulpmiddel. Is het mogelijk om alsnog een videofilmpje te maken zodat het duidelijk wordt.

03.05.2023 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Can you be so kind as to choose the flag of your language in order to get a prompt reply from our team? Thank you in advance.

04.05.2023 - 13:41

country flag Aggy wrote:

Skal forhøyningen strikkes i riller siden det strikkes rett hele tiden?

05.04.2023 - 05:00

country flag Leanyjack wrote:

If I wanted to knit the lace yoke in a different colour (in the medium size) approximately how much yarn would I need, for the yoke?

27.03.2023 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Leanyjack, as we worked this top with only one colour, we cannot say how much yarn you would need - please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone, they will be able to assist you there. Happy knitting!

28.03.2023 - 10:02

country flag Maryse wrote:

Besoin d’aide car je n’arrive pas droit dans mes ajourés. Lorsque je tricote les augmentations double de chaque côté de mes marqueurs, au rang suivant aucune augmentation. J’ai donc avant mon marqueur deux mailles de plus, à combien de mailles dois continuer à me rendre pour faire le motif A1? est-ce lorsque j’ai 5 mailles avant la maille du marqueur ou ? Gros gros merci!!!

13.02.2023 - 04:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Maryse, lorsque vous augmentez pour le raglan, ne tricotez en point fantaisie que si vous avez suffisamment de mailles pour agrandir le point ajouré, autrement dit, pour mieux vous situer, mettez un marqueur avant le 1er A.1, et tricotez les mailles augmentées avant ce A.1 en jersey jusqu'à ce que vous puissiez tricoter le motif ajouré, continuez A.1 comme avant jusqu'aux augmentations que vous tricotez soit en jersey soit dans un nouveau motif ajouré. Continuez ainsi tout le tour, pour chaque pièce (dos, devant et manches). Bon tricot!

13.02.2023 - 11:24

country flag Anja wrote:

Hallo, was genau ist mit MASCHENPROBE BEACHTEN gemeint? Worauf soll geachtet werden? Danke und viele Grüße

28.09.2022 - 19:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, Ihre Maschenprobe soll 24 Maschen x 32 Reihen glatt rechts = 10 x 10 cm sein; wenn Sie dann das Top stricken, müssen Sie immer noch 24 Maschen x 32 Reihen = 10 x 10 cm haben, und nicht locker oder enger stricken, sonnst werden die Maßen nicht mehr stimmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.09.2022 - 08:28

country flag Nina Fabricius wrote:

Jeg har i forsommeren 2022 strikket denne top. Pasformen er perfekt. Det, som har irriteret og skuffet mig, er, at jeg valgte at strikke i marine (9) Safran, og at garnet er falmet på forstykket i vandrette striber, typisk der hvor toppen folder, når man sidder. Ligeledes er det falmet, hvor brysterne er højest! Dette er en kommentar, men alligevel vil jeg spørge, om jeg en anden gang tør bruge marineblåt Safran?

25.09.2022 - 13:56

country flag Anneke Seigers wrote:

Excuses, de vorige vraag niet goed opgesteld. Ik heb een proeflapje gemaakt, omdat ik andere wol gebruik en kom uit op naald 4 mm. Moet ik dan voor het begin naald 3,5 gebruiken I.p.v. 2,5?

22.03.2022 - 10:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

Ja, je kan inderdaad dan naald 3,5 gebruiken (een halve maat kleiner)

24.03.2022 - 11:55