DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-1378
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-244
Yarn group C or A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43

Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g for all sizes in color 8908, aqua blue
100 g for all sizes in color 8911, sea blue
100 g for all sizes in color 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM / G/6– or the size needed to get 17 single crochets and 20 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO-1 (when working in the round):
Each round starts with 1 chain stitch which replaces the first single crochet and each round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

CROCHET INFO-2 (when working back and forth):
Each row starts with 1 chain stitch, the chain stitch does not replace the first single crochet.

COLOR CHANGE:
To get a neat transition when changing colors, work the last single crochet before the color change as follows: Insert the hook into the last stitch, pick up the strand, make a yarn over with the new color and pull it through all the loops on the hook. Continue with the new color.

2 SINGLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
* Insert the hook in to the next stitch, pick up the strand *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a yarn over and pull the yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 single crochet decreased).
----------------------------------------------------------

SLIPPER:
The piece is started by working in the round from the sole, bottom up. Then it is worked back and forth.

SOLE:
ROUND1: Work a row of 21-25-29 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn with) with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and sea blue.
Work 4 single crochets in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, insert the first marker in the middle of these 4 single crochets, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 18-22-26 chain stitches, work 4 single crochets in the last chain stitch, insert the second marker in the middle of these 4 single crochets, continue working around on the other side of the chain-stitch row, work 1 single crochet in each of the 18-22-26 stitches, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet = 44-52-60 single crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 2: READ CROCHET INFO-1. Work * 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, work 2 single crochets in each of the next 2 stitches (the marker will continue to sit between these stitches) *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, work 1 single crochet in each stitch the rest of the round = 4 single crochets increased.
ROUND 3: Work as for round 2 = 52-60-68 single crochets.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 single crochet in each stitch until there are 4 stitches left before the marker, 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 single crochets in each of the next 2 stitches (the marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 single crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, work 1 single crochet in each single crochet the rest of the round = 8 single crochets increased.
ROUND 5 AND ONWARDS: Work as for round 4, 2-2-1 times then work as for round 2, 1-1-3 times = 80-88-96 single crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.
Use only the first marker from here. NOTE: If the marker has moved, it must be adjusted so that it sits mid front of the toe.

EDGE OF SOLE:
Start the next round in the middle of the one side, in other words, start in the 21st-23rd-25th single crochet before the marker. Work towards the toe with off white as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 single crochet in the back loop of each single crochet.
ROUNDS 2-3: Now work normal single crochets through both loops - work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
ROUND 4: Now work a half stripe at the end of the round on the heel as follows: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 40-44-48 single crochets, change to sea blue – READ COLOR CHANGE and work 1 single crochet in each of the last 40-44-48 single crochets.
ROUNDS 5-6: Change to off white. Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet = 80-88-96 single crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

TOP OF TOE – SEMI-CIRCLE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue working back and forth - READ CROCHET INFO-2!
ROW 1: Work 6 single crochets around the ring.
ROW 2: Work 2 single crochets in each single crochet = 12-12-12 single crochets.
ROW 3: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
ROW 4: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 2 stitches, * 2 single crochets in the next stitch, 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, work 2 single crochets in the last stitch = 16-16-16 single crochets.
ROW 5: Work 1 single crochet in the first single crochet, * 2 single crochets in the next single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 single crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, work 2 single crochets in the next single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the last 2 stitches = 20-20-20 single crochets.
ROW 6: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 2 single crochets, * 2 single crochets in the next single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 single crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, work 2 single crochets in the next single crochet, work 1 single crochet in each of the last 2 stitches = 24-24-24 single crochets – do not cut the strand! Sizes 5/6½ and 7½/9 (EU 35/37 and 38/40) are continued from ALL SIZES.

SIZES 9½/10½ (EU41/43):
ROW 7: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 3 single crochets, * 2 single crochets in the next single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 5 single crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, work 2 single crochets in the next single crochet, work 1 single crochet in each of the last 2 stitches = 28 single crochets – do not cut the strand!

ALL SIZES:
Work another row across, starting from the right side, i.e. around each row (= 6-6-7 rows on each side of the chain-stitch ring). Work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1: Skip the first row, work 1 single crochet around each of the next 5-5-6 rows, work 1 half double crochet around the chain-stitch ring, work 1 single crochet around each of the next 5-5-6 rows, skip the last row, finish with 1 slip stitch in the start of the previous row = 11-11-13 stitches.
ROWS 2-5: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
Change to sea blue – the next round for assembly starts here – from the right side!

ASSEMBLY (the edge of the sole and the semi-circle):
Lay the semi-circle on top of the edge of the sole, the middle of the semi-circle (= 12-12-14 single crochets on each side) should meet the marker mid front of the edge. Work 1 round with sea blue in the round as follows: Remember CROCHET INFO-1! Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet/around every row through both layers = 80-88-96 single crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

BAND:
Work a small band which will later be worked together with the last row of the side piece. Work back and forth with off white as follows:
ROW 1: Work 5 chain stitches, turn and work 1 single crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches = 4 single crochets.
ROWS 2-11: Remember CROCHET INFO-2! Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the band to one side.

SIDES/BACK PIECE:
Work a side piece back and forth from the last round on the edge. You no longer work over the 24-24-28 single crochets mid front.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work with aqua blue. Work 1 single crochet in each of the remaining 56-64-68 single crochets.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 2 SINGLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – see description above, 1 single crochet in each single crochet until there are 2 single crochets left on the row, work 2 single crochets together (= 2 single crochets decreased).
ROW 3: Work 2 single crochets together, 1 single crochet in each of the next 21-25-27 single crochets, 2 single crochets together, 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 single crochets, 2 single crochets together, 1 single crochet in each of the next 21-25-27 single crochets, finish with 2 single crochets together (= 4 single crochets decreased) = 50-58-62 single crochets.
ROW 4: Repeat row 2 = 48-56-60 single crochets.
ROW 5: Work 2 single crochets together, 1 single crochet in each of the next 18-22-24 single crochets, 2 single crochets together, 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 single crochets, 2 single crochets together, 1 single crochet in each of the next 18-22-24 single crochets, finish with 2 single crochets together (= 4 single crochets decreased) = 44-52-56 single crochets.
Continue by repeating row 2, 7-9-9 more times = 30-34-38 single crochets on the last row.
Then work 6-6-6 rows with 1 single crochet in each single crochet = a total of 18-20-20 rows.
The last row is worked together with the band from the right side as follows: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 13-15-17 single crochets, fold the band in 2 and work 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 single crochets through all 3 layers, then work 1 single crochet in each of the last 13-15-17 single crochets. Do not cut the strand!

FRONT EDGE FOR SHOE LACES:
Work 1 edge down the rows which were decreased as follows: Work * 2 chain stitches, skip 1 row, work 1 single crochet around the next row *, repeat from *-* along the whole of the slanted edge, finish with 1 slip stitch in the last row = 9-10-10 chain-spaces. Cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 edge on the other side in the same way, but in reverse, i.e. start at the bottom with 1 slip stitch in the first row, finish with 1 slip stitch in the top.

FLAP:
Work a flap, continuing back and forth in the 11-11-13 single crochets which were worked across on top of the semi-circle. Work with aqua blue.
ROW 1: Remember CROCHET INFO-2! Work 2 single crochets in the first single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 9-9-11 stitches, work 2 single crochets in the last single crochet = 13-13-15 single crochets.
ROW 2: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
Repeat row 2, 17-19-19 more times, then work as follows: * Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet, turn and work 2 single crochets together, 1 single crochet in each single crochet until there are 2 single crochets left, work 2 single crochets together (= 2 single crochets decreased) *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4 times = 7-7-7 single crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

DECORATION:
Work 3 chain stitches with off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUND 1: Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet), work 11 double crochets around the ring, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch, change to sea blue.
ROUND 2: Remember CROCHET INFO-1. Work 2 single crochets in each double crochet = 24 single crochets.
Sew the decoration with small, neat stitches, to the middle of one side of the side piece.

CORD:
Work a twisted cord as follows: Cut 2 strands off white of 4 metres. Twist them together until they resist, fold them double and they will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. Thread the cord through the row of chain stitches (every other chain-space) in the same way as you thread a shoe lace.

Work 1 more slipper in the same way, but sew the decoration on the opposite side of the side piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 30.05.2022
New yarn amount: DROPS Nepal from Garnstudio 100 g for all sizes in color 0100, off white
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-1378

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Mireille wrote:

Bonjour , Je suis en train de tricoter le patron ne-244 ( pantoufle genre converse ) et au 1tour j’ai fait la premiere partie en placant mon deuxieme marqueur mais quand je crochete 1 m serree dans ch 22 ml et en terminant par 1 m coulee c’est supposer darriver a 52 ms mais moi j’arrive a 32 ms je ne comprend pas merci

09.07.2018 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mireille, crochetez ainsi: 4 ms dans la 2ème ml (= 4 ms, 2 ml), 1 ms dans les 22 ml suivantes (= 22 ms/ml), 4 ms dans la ml suivante (4 ms, 1 ml), 1 ms dans les 22 ml suivantes (= 22 ms/ml) = 4+22+4+22= 52 ms (2+22+1=25 ml). Vous devez avoir 4 ms de chaque côté et 22 ms le long des 2 côtés de la chaînette - cette vidéo montre comment crocheter des 2 côtés de la chaînette. Bon crochet!

10.07.2018 - 08:24

country flag Vicki wrote:

I am a bit confused on round 5 and onward do i repeat round 4 3x then round 2 4 x please help

27.06.2018 - 15:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vicki, in the first 2 sizes you will repeat row 4 2 more times, ie work as round 4 increasing 8 sts on each round; then work round 2 one more time increasing 4 sts on the round = you will have 80-88 sts after last round. Happy crocheting!

27.06.2018 - 16:31

country flag AIFA wrote:

Bonjour,\r\npour le dessus du pied, aprés avoir fait les 13 mailles sur les rangs, on continue autour de quel mailles pour les rangs 2-5, juste avant lassemblage ?

11.06.2018 - 20:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjouir Aifa, vous continuez sur ces mêmes 13 ms jusqu'au rang 5: tournez à la fin du 1er rang et crochetez 1 ms dans chacune de ces 13 ms. Bon crochet!

12.06.2018 - 09:03

country flag Sonia B. wrote:

Bonjour, je crois qu'il y a une petite erreur au début, section SEMELLE, RANG 1: La séquence juste avant de placer le 2e marqueur ne devrait-elle pas se terminer plutôt par "4 mailles serrées dans la dernière maille en l'air"? C'est écrit "dans la dernière maille serrée". Merci.

04.05.2018 - 01:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sonia et merci, au tour 1 de la semelle on crochète effectivement dans les mailles en l'air, la correction a été faite. Bon crochet!

04.05.2018 - 09:05

country flag Sonia B. wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas la section "Toutes les tailles" au RANG 1: sauter le premier rang [...], sauter le dernier rang, terminer par 1 maille coulée au début du rang précédent = 11-11-13 mailles. Que veut-on dire par "sauter le premier et le dernier rang"? Merci.

04.05.2018 - 01:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sonia, on crochète ici le long du bord droit du demi-cercle que l'on vient de faire, en crochetant le long des débuts/fins de rangs du demi-cercle: on va sauter le 1er rang pour crocheter la 1ère ms dans le 2ème rang et continuer jusqu'à l'avant-dernier rang du demi-cercle. Bon crochet!

04.05.2018 - 09:16

Marisela Rojas wrote:

Buen dia, esta muy lindo este trabajo y en general me encanta su pagina, mi pregunta seria como le agrego una suela firme o hacer ese botin con suela dura paea evitar humedecer los pies o lastimarse, en otras palabras de uso cotidiano

28.03.2018 - 12:28

country flag Pascale Boyer wrote:

Serait-il possible d'avoir ce modèle pour bébé et enfant? Ce type de chaussette est très populaire mais difficile d'avoir des tailles plus grande que bébé naissant. Merci.

16.02.2018 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boyer, votre demande a été transférée à nos stylistes. Bon crochet!

16.02.2018 - 16:34

country flag Lisbeth Larsen wrote:

Opskriften passer. Til gengæld passer garnangivelsen IKKE: Der er for lidt af den naturfarvede, hvis man følger farvesammensætningen. Mangler til den ene bagstrop og snørrebånd! Til gengæld er der RIGELIGT i de andre farver, hvor jeg har 2 nøgler af den aqua og 1 nøgle af den havblå til overs. Har hæklet den mindste størrelse. MEN hellere for meget end for lidt! med venlig hilsen Lisbeth

16.02.2018 - 15:29

country flag Thérèse Briand wrote:

Je ne comprends pas ou placer les marqueurs!! Je fais le modèle de 27 cm et je fini avec avec 112 mailles. et non 96 mailles.

12.02.2018 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Briand, les marqueurs se trouvent aux extrémités du chausson (côté pointe et côté talon), entre les augmentations, vous devez toujours avoir le même nombre de mailles de chaque côté de chaque marqueur. À la fin du tour 3, vous avez 68 m, puis vous crochetez 2 fois le tour 4, (= on augmente 2 x 8 m = 84 m), puis répétez 3 x le tour 2= 3x4 augm = +12 m, soit 84+12= 96m. Bon crochet!

13.02.2018 - 08:55

Tameka Jackson wrote:

Hey everyone I’m a little confused at one part of the pattern. I’m doing the toe and once it gets to the all sizes continuation you completely lose me sorry. Can anyone explain it slightly different or include a photo? I’d really appreciate it

26.01.2018 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jackson, when the semi-circle has been done, you will now crochet along the beginning of semi-circle, ie along the straight edge of the semi-circle, working 1 st in each beg/end of row and 1 st in the ring of chains. Work then a total of 5 rows along this side (opposite of the rounded side of toe). Happy crocheting!

29.01.2018 - 08:44