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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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= knit | |
= purl | |
= 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs so that there are holes | |
= 2 yarn overs between 2 stitches, on the next round drop the first yarn over and knit the other | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over (= 2 stitches decreased) |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Spring Forest |
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Jumper with wave pattern and raglan, worked bottom up with 2 strands DROPS Delight. Sizes: S - XXXL.
DROPS 178-27 |
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. CHANGING THE STRAND TIP: So that the transitions between colours in Delight are as neat as possible when changing balls, it is important to find a ball which starts with the colour the previous ball ended with. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.9. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. INCREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve): Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. DECREASE TIP: Decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 stitches together. To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide the number of stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 5) = 17.6. In this example you work approx. every 17th and 18th stitch together. RAGLAN: Decrease to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves. NOTE: In sizes S, M and XXL decreases are different on the body and sleeves as described in the text. Decrease as follows after A.9: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased). Decrease as follows before A.9: Start 2 stitches before A.9 and knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, from the bottom up. The sleeves are worked with double pointed needles. BODY: Cast on 270-297-324-351-378-405 stitches with circular needle size 5.5 mm with 1 strand in each colour (= 2 strands). Work A.1 (= 27 stitches) 10-11-12-13-14-15 times in width. When the whole of A.1 has been completed in height there are 230-253-276-299-322-345 stitches on the round. Work A.2 (= 23 stitches) over each repeat of A.1. Continue in this way until A.2 has been completed 3-3-3-3-3-4 times in height – READ CHANGING THE STRAND TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work A.3 (= 23 stitches) 1 time in height. When the whole of A.3 has been completed in height there are 210-231-252-273-294-315 stitches on the round. Work A.4 (= 21 stitches) 2 times in height in all sizes. Work A.5 (= 21 stitches) 1 time in height. When the whole of A.5 has been completed in height there are 190-209-228-247-266-285 stitches on the round. Work A.6 (= 19 stitches) 3 times in height in all sizes. Then work A.7 (= 19 stitches). When A.7 has been completed in height there are 150-165-180-195-210-225 stitches on the round. Knit 1 round where you decrease 10-11-14-13-8-5 stitches evenly along the round = 140-154-166-182-202-220 stitches. Then work the next round as follows: Knit 32-35-38-42-47-52 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the last stitch knitted, cast off 6 stitches for the armhole, knit 64-71-77-85-95-104 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the first and last stitch knitted, cast off 6 stitches for the armhole, knit 32-36-39-43-48-52 stitches and insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch knitted. Put aside and work sleeves. SLEEVES: Cast on 32-34-36-40-42-46 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with 1 strand in each colour (= 2 strands). Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.8. When A.8 has been completed 1 time in height change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and allow the marker thread to follow the work upwards. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 10-12-7-5-5-10 cm increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 7th-5th-5th-5th-4th-4th round a total of 10-12-14-14-14-14 times = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. When the piece measures 46-44-44-42-41-40 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) cast off 6 stitches mid under the sleeve (i.e. cast off 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 46-52-58-62-64-68 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work the other sleeve in the same way. YOKE: Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where you have cast off stitches for the armholes (do this without working the stitches) = 220-246-270-294-318-344 stitches on the needle. There are now 4 marker thread in the piece (1 marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves). Continue by working stocking stitch and A.9 in each transition between body and sleeves (the stitches with marker threads are the middle stitches in A.9). AT THE SAME TIME on the first round start the decreases to RAGLAN – see the description above. NOTE: Decreases vary in the different sizes. SIZES S, M AND XXL: The decreases are different on body and sleeves. FRONT AND BACK PIECES: Decrease 1 stitch every 2nd round (= 4 stitches decreased on the round) a total of 18-20-25 times. SLEEVES: Decrease 1 stitch every 4th round a total of 2-2-1 times and every 2nd round (= 4 stitches decreased on the round) a total of 13-16-23 times. Change to short circular needle size 5.5 mm when the number of stitches has been sufficiently reduced. SIZES L, XL AND XXXL: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of each A.9 (= 8 stitches decreased on the round). Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 21-23-26 times. Change to short circular needle size 5.5 mm when the number of stitches has been sufficiently reduced. ALL SIZES: When all the decreases have been completed there are 88-94-102-110-122-136 stitches on the round. Work 1 round where you decrease 5-8-12-16-24-34 stitches evenly along the round – READ DECREASE TIP = 83-86-90-94-98-102 stitches. Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above and cast off. Make sure the cast-off edge is not tight! ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (45)
Karin wrote:
Die 270 M Anschlag sind für die kleinste Größe. Ich benötige die Größte. Wenn ich die Maschenprobe für das Wellenmuster zugrunde lege, dann ergibt sich folgendes, bei den angegeben Maßen, in meinem Fall 86 cm = 172 cm Umfang: 20 M = 10 cm, 20 x 17,2 = 344 Maschen und nicht wie in der Anleitung angegeben 405 Maschen. Was ist jetzt richtig?
11.12.2017 - 20:23DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Karin, genau diese Maschenanzahl (also 345 M) haben Sie nach A.1. Schlagen Sie 405 M in der letzten Größe, dann stricken Sie die 5 Runden M.1, dann haben Sie 345 M (4 M werden in der 3. Reihe A.1 in jedem Rapport abgenommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
12.12.2017 - 07:58Karin wrote:
Kann es sein, dass die Maschenprobe nicht zu diesem Modell gehört? Nach der angegeben Maschenprobe, ohne dass Muster zu berücksichtigen, müsste man bei der größten Größe 275 Maschen anschlagen. Oder habe ich irgendwo einen Denkfehler?
10.12.2017 - 02:33DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Karin, es werden 270 M angeschlagen, dann A.1 gestrickt. Nach A.1 bleiben 230 M und mit 20 M im Wellenmuster = 10 cm, haben Sie dann 115 cm Umfang, dh wie in der Skizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
11.12.2017 - 09:43Tone wrote:
Alle som klager på at denne er for kort har rett. Her må det strikkes flere A6 for å få rette lengden. Dere ber om tilbakemeldinger men når dere får det så gidder dere ikke ta det til etterretning. Skjerp dere. Når så mange gir tilbakemelding på at lengden ikke stemmer så kan ikke det være en tilfeldighet. Mvh. Tone Sundland
21.11.2017 - 12:34Dorthe wrote:
Kommer der en rettelse til denne opskrift. Jeg har her 10 dage stadig ikke hørt noget fra jer....
23.10.2017 - 11:40Dorthe wrote:
Følger man opskrift bliver længde op til ærmegab 23 cm. Iflg stregtegning skal længden være 37 cm op til ærmegab så der er en STOR fejl i opskriften. Bittert at have brugt penge på en ubrugelig opskrift og penge på garn også......
12.10.2017 - 10:52Dorthe wrote:
Der mangler noget i opskriften. Blusen er alt alt for kort. Ikke i orden at I ikke får mønstret rettet til når det er nævnt flere gange i kommentarfeltet.
11.10.2017 - 22:21Nadine Breton wrote:
Je n'ai jamais tricoté avec des aiguilles circulaires j'appréhende de me lancer.. comment faire pour tricoter vos modèles avec des aiguilles droites merci
14.08.2017 - 14:07DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Nadine . Ici vous trouvez comment adapter un modèle sur aiguille circulaire pour des aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!
17.08.2017 - 22:18Andrea wrote:
Strickanleitung fehlerhaft!
31.07.2017 - 18:38DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Andrea, können Sie bitte mehr sagen? Was für Fehler, Größe, usw damit wir prüfen können. Danke im voraus!
01.08.2017 - 12:32Helen Singleton wrote:
Hi Drops, I am really beginning to hate your website!!! Every time I visit you have ANOTHER beautiful pattern that is available in larger sizes and I really don't think that I will live long enough to knit them all. I should just stop visiting you but I am addicted and always wanting to see what further delights you have to knit. Thank you so much for putting the pleasure back into knitting things for myself again. Regards Helen
30.06.2017 - 22:22FOUANON Pascale wrote:
Bonjour, je suis en train de tricoter spring forest en taille S et j'ai un souci avec la taille finale : en ajoutant tous les rangs A1, A2...., j'arrive au nombre de 69 rangs jusqu'à l'emmanchure. Si je prends l'échantillon 20 m x 24 rangs = 10 cms, soit pour 72 rangs (3X24) cela fait 30 cms, or, le schéma indique 51 cms (54-3), il manque donc 21 cms ??? Y aurait -il une erreur par exemple en A2 qu'il faudrait tricoter non pas 3X mais 9X voire 10X ??? Merci de votre réponse ! Pascale
08.05.2017 - 15:07DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Fouanon, les 54 cm sont la hauteur totale - le 3 cm du bas - les 18 cm d'emmanchure + 1 + 5 cm pour les manches = 27 cm de hauteur jusqu'aux emmanchures. Bon tricot!
08.05.2017 - 16:10