DROPS / 176 / 26

Sunny Date by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with lace pattern, worked in square in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-102
Yarn group B
Sizes: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
750-800-900 g colour 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

See diagrams A.1 to A.12. The diagrams show the pattern seen from the right side. Choose the diagram needed for the right size when you are working according to A.2, A.3 and A.4.

INCREASE TIP (for the sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 3 (the stitch with the marker thread sits in the middle of these 3 stitches), make 1 yarn over.

The piece is worked in square on double pointed needles/circular needle, from the middle of the back and outwards. Then work the front pieces back and forth in each side.

Cast on 12 stitches in all sizes with double pointed needles size 4 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work according to A.1 (= 4 repeats on the round) and switch to circular needle when there is increase enough stitches. When A.1 is finished 1 time in height there are 236 stitches on the round. Continue working as follows: * A.2 (= 7 stitches), A.3 over the next 48 stitches (= 8 repeats in width), A.4 over the next 4 stitches *, work from *-* in total 4 times. NOTE! Choose the diagram for the right size. On the last round in A.2, A.3 and A.4 (there are now 324-372-420 stitches on the round) work as follows: Work the first 83-95-107 stitches, cast off the next 38-42-46 stitches (= armhole), work the next 163-191-219 stitches, cast off the next 38-42-46 stitches (= armhole) and work the last 2 stitches. On the next round (= the last round in A.2, A.3 and A.4) cast on 38-42-46 new stitches over the cast-off stitches = 332-380-428 stitches.

Continue to work as follows: * A.5 (= 5 stitches), A.6 over the next 72-84-96 stitches (= 6-7-8 repeats in width), A.7 (= 6 stitches) *, work from *-* in total 4 times. Continue with A.5, A.6 and A.7 until the diagrams are worked 1 time in height = 572-620-668 stitches on the round. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, over all the stitches (without increases), then cast off the first 143-155-167 stitches, place the next 143-155-167 stitches on a thread (knit them first), cast off the next 143-155-167 stitches, keep the last 143-155-167 stitches on the needle and continue working back and forth over these stitches (= right front piece).

The piece is worked back and forth without increases in the side. Work as follows, from the right side: A.8 A (= 4 stitches), A.8 B over the next 132-144-156 stitches (= 11-12-13 repeats in width), A.8 C (= 7 stitches). Work A.8 1 time in height, then work A.9 A-C over A.8 A-C. When A.9 has been worked 6-7-8 times in height, work A.10 A-C over A.9 A-C. Cast off with knit.

Place the stitches from the thread in the other side back on the needle. Work in the same way as the right front piece, but the first row in A.8 has already been worked, start from the wrong side on the 2nd row in the diagram.

The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-48-54 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work A.11 over all stitches. When A.11 has been worked 1 time in height continue working stocking stitch, on the first round adjust the number of stitches to 45-49-55 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch on the round = mid under the sleeve. When the piece measures 10 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase every 2½-2-2cm in total 16-18-19 times = 77-85-93 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 41-40-40 cm work A.12 over the middle 13 stitches on the round (= mid on top of the sleeve). Cast off when the sleeve measures 53-52-52 cm. Work 1 more sleeve.

Sew in the sleeves. Use a needle to sew and close up the hole mid back (= cast-on edge).

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 24.05.2017
A small edit in Diagram A.8.
Updated online: 29.08.2017
Diagram A.5 row 24 has been updated.


= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next round knit the yarn overs (there will be holes)
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted (to prevent holes)
= slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 176-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Elli 16.10.2020 - 09:34:

Hei. Mitä tarkoittaa hihassa tuo ”säädä ensimmäisellä kerroksella silmukkaluku 45-49-55 silmukkaan. ”?? Kavennetaanko silmukoita? Vähän on vaikeasti ymmärrettävä..

Daniela 28.06.2020 - 16:53:

Hej! Jag är stl XS och har tittat på koftans mått. S/M kommer vara för stor för mig. Finns det något sätt att göra den mindre? Tack! Daniela

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 13:18:

Hei Daniela. Nei, dessverre. Design avd har ikke mulighet til å omregne/tegne nye diagrammer til en mindre størrelse. mvh DROPS design

Luison Delphine 29.02.2020 - 08:26:

Bonjour, pour le devant droit, quand on tricote A.9 A-C cela veux bien dire que nous tricotons sur un rang: A.9A ,1fois puis A.9B, 11fois puis.A.9C, 1 fois?

DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Luison Delphine, la ponctuation me gêne un peu, mais je suppose que c'est cela, reformulé vous tricotez: 1 fois A.9A (au-dessus de A.8A), 11 fois A.9B (au-dessus des 11 fois A.8B) et 1 fois A.9C (au-dessus de A.8C). Bon tricot!

Luison 31.01.2020 - 18:18:

Bonjour, j'aimerais réaliser ce model pour ma fille mais elle à déjà acheté de la laine qui se tricote avec des aiguilles n°3,5 . j'ai réalisé un échantillon: les 28 rgs en gersey donne ne hauteur de 9cm au lieu de 10cm et 10 cm en largeur que dois-je faire ?

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 09:07:

Bonjour Luison, dans ce modèle, le nombre de rangs en hauteur est important pour coller aux explications - plus d'infos ici. Essayez de bloquer votre échantillon pour voir, ou sinon, il vous faudra fort probablement procéder à quelques ajustements. Bon tricot!

Mette Eriksen-Vik 18.12.2019 - 12:14:

Hei! Jeg finner ikke A8, A9 og A10

DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 11:46:

Hej Mette, det ligger i nederste højre hjørne, lige over måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

Birgit 09.06.2019 - 06:59:

Hallo, gibt es eine Möglichkeit einen Verschluss (Bindeband?) an der Jacke zu befestigen?

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 10:56:

Liebe Birgit, die Jacke können Sie am besten mit einer Nadel oder Brosche zusammenhalten. Viel spaß beim stricken!

Aurelie PRUDENT 09.04.2019 - 12:46:

Bonjour, Qu'est ce que des aiguilles doubles? Combien de pelotes pour la taille S/M svp? Merci pour votre retour et bonne journée !

DROPS Design 09.04.2019 kl. 13:22:

Bonjour Mme Aurelie PRUDENT! Les aiguilles doubles pointes (5 aiguilles au total) sont les aiguilles pour tricoter en rond, mais surtout des petits ouvrages (ex. chausettes). Pour la taille S/M il vous faut 15 pelotes de DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE. Bon tricot!

Elodie 22.03.2019 - 05:56:

Bonjour, Faut-il bien tricoter 4 fois les diagrammes A2 à A4 (après A1), car cela n'est pas flagrant sur les photos du modèle. Merci!

DROPS Design 22.03.2019 kl. 07:38:

Bonjour Elodie! Continuer ainsi: *A.2 (= 7 mailles), A.3 au-dessus des 48 mailles suivantes (= 8 fois en largeur), A.4 au-dessus des 4 mailles suivantes*, tricoter de *-* 4 fois au total > cela veut dire que vous tricotez les diagrammes A2 à A4 quatre fois en largueur (parce que vous travaillez le carre). Bon tricot!

Karin 23.01.2019 - 19:26:

Meiner Meinung nach ist das Diagramm A8, A9 und A10 für Stricken in Runden gezeichnet. Für Stricken in Hin und Rückreihen muss man die Rückreihe dementsprechend anders stricken. Laut Foto sehe ich es als glatt rechts gestrickt.

DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 10:44:

Liebe Karin, alle Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen (= Hin- sowie Rückreihen) in A.9 werden die leere Kästchen glatt rechts gestrickt. Die 2 ersten und 2 letzten Maschen sind kraus rechts gestrickt: rechts bei den HInreihen sowie bei den Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Karin 21.01.2019 - 17:52:

Bei den Vorderteil Muster A8 A9 und A10 sind das Hin u. Rückreihen im Musterdiagramm? Laut Foto der Jacke sieht es aus wie nur Hinreihen. Kann mir da jemand was dazu sagen?

DROPS Design 22.01.2019 kl. 07:56:

Liebe Karin, alle Reihen sind im Diagram gezeigt, dh die Hin sowie die Rückreihen. Diagramme lesen Sie von der unteren rechten Ecke rechts nach links bei den Hinreihen und links nach rechts bei den Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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