DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 177-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-256
Yarn group A + A or C
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Measurements:
Circumference: approx. 80 cm
Height: approx 34 cm

Materials: 
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g colour 17, white
150 g colour 06, denim blue
100 g colour 05, light blue purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM – or the hook size needed to get 18 treble crochet and 10.5 rows with 2 strands on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show the colours in the pattern. 1 square = 1 treble crochet.

DOUBLE STRAND TIP: 
Use the strand from the inside and outside of the ball. So that it is not thick where the strand ends are fastened, it is best not to change both strands at the same time. It is also advisable to fasten the strands by laying them along the stitches from the previous round and then working around them and fastening them as you go.

COLOUR PATTERN (worked in the round): 
When changing colours work as follows: Work the last treble crochet with the first colour, but wait with the last pull through, change to the next colour and work the last pull through, then work the next treble crochet. When working with two colours lay the strands of the colour not being worked across the stitches from the previous round and work around the strands so that they are hidden and always available for use.

CROCHET INFO:
The first treble crochet of the round is replaced by 3 chain stitches, finish the round with1 slip stitch in the third chain stitch.
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BAG:
The piece is worked in the round with 2 strands.

Work 5 chain stitches with 2 strands of denim blue and hook size 3.5 mm and form them to a ring with one slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue to work in the round according to diagram A.1 (work 12 repeats of A.1 in width) – READ COLOUR PATTERN!
ROUND 1: Work 12 treble crochet around the ring – READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 2: Work 2 treble crochet in each treble crochet = 24 treble crochet.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 treble crochet in the first treble crochet, 2 treble crochet in the next treble crochet *, repeat *-* the whole round = 36 treble crochet.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 treble crochet in each of the 2 first treble crochet, 2 treble crochet in the next treble crochet *, repeat *-* the whole round = 48 treble crochet. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUNDS 5-12: Continue with increases and work pattern according to A.1 as before, i.e. for each consecutive round work 1 more treble crochet between increases = 144 treble crochet. Increase 12 treble crochet each round.
ROUND 13: Continue to work in the round, but without increases and work pattern according to A.2 (= 8 repeats in width). Continue until A.2 is finished, cut and fasten the strands. 

STRAP:
Cut 12 strands of 10 metres of each of the colours light blue purple and denim blue (= 24 strands). Twist the strands tightly together until they resist, fold the strap double and it will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end.

Thread the strap into the bag between 2 treble crochet in the 3rd to last round of the bag as follows: Start after the 21st treble crochet on the round: Thread the strap from the inside of the bag outwards, skip 30 treble crochet and thread the strap from the outside inwards. Skip 12 treble crochet and thread the strap from the inside outwards, skip 18 treble crochet and thread the strap from the outside inwards. Skip 12 treble crochet and thread the strap from the inside outwards, skip 30 treble crochet and thread the strap from the outside inwards. Skip 12 treble crochet and thread the strap from the inside outwards, skip 18 treble crochet and thread the strap from the outside inwards. Adjust the length of the strap if necessary and tie the ends of the strap together on the inside of the bag.

Diagram

symbols = white
symbols = light blue purple
symbols = denim blue
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Brigitte Prange wrote:

Ich habe die Tasche noch mit Fleece abgefüttert und sie bekommt noch einen Magnetverschluss. Die Anleitung war einfach zu verstehen. Habe selbst ich als jemand, die selten häkelt, verstanden

29.10.2023 - 09:56

country flag Mouton wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaite réaliser ce sac avec du coton Drops Paris. Pouvez-vous m’indiquer les quantités requises? Merci

07.06.2022 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mouton, utilisez notre convertisseur en indiquant bien "2 fils" car Safran est crochetée en double, vous aurez ainsi la quantité équivalente en DROPS Paris. Bon crochet!

08.06.2022 - 08:02

country flag Susanne wrote:

Hallo Drops Team! Können Sie noch mal genauer beschreiben wie Die Kordel gefädelt wird. Werden das Henkel? Ich komme leider nicht mit der Beschreibung nicht zurecht. Danke!

11.07.2021 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, ja genau, die Kordel bildet die Träger und gleichzeitig den Verschluss (wenn Sie die Tasche an den Trägern tragen, zieht sich die Tasche oben zusammen). Die Kordel wird oben durch die drittletzte Runde einmal rundum durchgefädelt, im Abstand der jeweils genannten Stäbchen. Sie fädeln die Kordel also abwechselnd von innen nach außen und wieder von außen nach innen und lassen dazwischen den angegebenen Abstand. Zuletzt verknoten Sie die beiden Enden miteinander auf der Innenseite der Tasche (das Durchfädeln beginnt und endet ja innen, es sind 12 Stäbchen zwischen dem Anfang und dem Ende der Kordel). Gutes Gelingen!

12.07.2021 - 08:59

country flag Agáta Manasková wrote:

Dobrý den, prosím vás absolutně jsem nepochopila jak se dělá to ucho, mám šnůru dlouhou 10 metrů a je to hrozně dlouhé, už týden se s tím trápím:-( Děkuji za odpověď

28.06.2021 - 18:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Agáto! Nevzdávejte to! :-) Jak na kroucenou šňůru uvidíte např. v této naší video-ukázce Hodně zdaru a pěkné léto s novou taškou! Hana

30.06.2021 - 16:57

country flag Martha Kent wrote:

What is the final length of the straps?

04.05.2021 - 15:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Martha, the final length depends on how thightly you will twist the strands, but it is not so important to get the exact length, as you can adjust it to your own need. Happy Crafting!

04.05.2021 - 16:58

country flag Deanne Stoddart wrote:

Why does your site not have any images of the patterns anymore? Not one single pattern has an image today3/31/21.

01.04.2021 - 07:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deanne, the site is experiencing a tecnical problem, but the appropriate department is working hard to solve the issue as soon as possible. We need to ask a little patience from you. Thank you for understanding!

01.04.2021 - 09:41

country flag Annamaria Anzisi wrote:

Buongiorno ho terminato la borsa ed ora ,prima di fare la bretella ,volevo essere sicura che i capi di fili da tagliare debbano essere lunghi 10 metri . Grazie e complimenti per i modelli

27.05.2019 - 09:04

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Annamaria. Deve tagliare 24 capi (12 per ogni colore), ognuno lungo 10 metri. Buon lavoro!

27.05.2019 - 09:23

country flag Sofia Broborg wrote:

Hej! När jag klickar på länken för garnet till detta mönster, DROPS Safran, skickas jag till Garnaffären men DROPS PUNA, inte Safran?? Sökte efter Safran direkt på Garnaffärens sida och det finns där så det verkar bara ha kopplats fel länk till detta mönster.

16.04.2019 - 18:48

country flag Saskia wrote:

Hallo, ich verzweifle leider völlig an eurer Anleitung :( Das Farbmuster nach Diagramm A.1 irritiert mich, da es nicht mit den Fotografien zusammen passt :/ Z.B. die zweite Runde: lt. Diagramm 1 Stb weiß, 1 Stb jeansblau, 4 Stb weiß. Aber auf der Fotografie sind weiß und jeansblau im Wechsel.Eigentlich habe ich bisher all eure Anleitungen super verstanden - aber bei den Taschen bin ich raus. Kann mir jemand helfen? Danke!!

08.04.2019 - 13:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Saska, Diagram lesen Sie von unten nach oben, dh bei der 1. Reihe in A.1 häkeln Sie 12 x A.1 = 12 x 1 Stb mit jeansblau - bei der 2. Reihe in A.1 häkeln Sie (1 Stb mit Jeansblau, 2 Stb mit hell blaulila) x 12. und so weiter. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagram. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.04.2019 - 13:56

Anke Reefs wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage, kann man dieses Haekelmuster auch mit festen maschen haekeln oder nur mit Staebchen, vielen Dank fuer Ihre Antwort

27.09.2018 - 14:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Reefs, diese Tasche wird nur mit Stäbchen gehäkelt, sollten Sie sie mit festen Maschen häkeln, würde die Tasche viel kleiner (in der Höhe) sein. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

27.09.2018 - 15:45