DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 177-19
DROPS design: Pattern no w-624
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550 g color 100, light wash
350-400-450 g color 101, light blue

DROPS Hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 18 double crochet x 10.5 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically. Diagram A.1b measures approx. 24 x 24 cm / 9½" x 9½''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. NOTE: A.4 and A.5 are illustrations and show on which side the crochet squares are worked onwards.
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PONCHO:
First work 4 crochet squares, then sew crochet squares together before working an edge in the neck and an edge at the bottom of poncho.

CROCHET SQUARE 1 (= mid front and mid back):
Begin with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and light wash and work pattern according to diagram A.1b 4 times in total on round - diagram A.1a shows how rounds begin and end and worked in addition to A.1b. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
On 9th round work with light blue. From 10th round continue with light wash. When entire diagram A.1a and A.1b have been worked vertically, crochet square measures approx. 24 x 24 cm / 9½" x 9½''. Cut the yarn.
Now continue as follows:
Begin with light wash in 4th single crochet and work from 3rd round in diagrams as follows (1st and 2nd round are already worked): Work A.2a in single crochet (A.2a shows how rounds begin and end), work A.2b over the first 3 chain spaces, * work A.2c (= corner), work A.2b over the next 9 chain spaces (= 3 repetitions) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, work A.2c in the corner and finish with A.2b over the remaining 6 chain spaces (= 2 repetitions) on round. When 6th round in diagram A.2a to A.2c has been worked, fasten off. Crochet square measures approx. 37 x 37 cm / 14½" x 14½".

Switch to light blue and continue over 2 of the sides on crochet squares - see illustration A.4 and sides marked with A:
Fasten strand with 1 single crochet around chain space in a corner, work 3 chain stitches and 5 double crochet around chain space in the corner, then work last row in A.2b until 2 chain spaces remain before corner, work last round in A.2c, continue with last round in A.2b until next corner, work 5 double crochet around chain space in the corner. Size S/M is now done.
In size L/XL and XXL/XXXL continue as follows:

Size L/XL:
Turn piece and work 2nd row in diagrams as follows: Work A.3a, then work A.3b until next corner, work A.3c around chain space in corner. Turn and work last row in diagram A.3a to A.3c. Cut the yarn. Work the same way on the other side marked with A – see illustration A.4. Size L/XL is now done. (L/XL has 2 rows more than S/M).

Size XXL/XXXL
Turn piece and work from 2nd row in diagrams as follows: Work A.3a, then work A.3b until next corner, work A.3c around chain space in corner. Turn and work last row in diagram A.3a to A.3c. Work 2nd and 3rd row in diagram A.3a to A.3c 1 more time vertically. Cut the yarn. Work the same way on the other side marked with A – see illustration A.4. Size XXL/XXXL is now done. (XXL/XXXL has 4 rows more than S/M).

ALL SIZES: Work 1 more square the same way = 2 equal crochet squares, one for mid front and one for mid back on poncho.

CROCHET SQUARE 2 (= sides):
Begin with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and light wash and work a crochet square the same way as crochet square 1, but when 6th round (= next to last round) in diagram A.2a to A.2c is done, fasten off. Switch to light blue and continue over 3 of the sides on crochet squares - see illustration A.5 and sides marked with B and C as follows: Fasten strand with 1 single crochet around chain space in a corner, work 3 chain stitches and 5 double crochet around chain space in the corner, then work last row in A.2b until 2 chain spaces remain before next corner, * work last row in A.2c, continue with last row in A.2b until next corner *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, work 5 double crochet around chain space in the corner. Fasten off.

Work 1 more crochet square the same way = 2 equal crochet squares for sides on poncho.

ASSEMBLY:
Place crochet squares together so that sides A meet sides B and sides C are inwards towards neck on poncho – see measurements chart! Sew crochet squares together edge to edge, i.e. sew in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam. Fasten off.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
Work an edge at the bottom of poncho with light blue as follows:
Begin in the tip on crochet square mid back, i.e. in corner pointing down on poncho and fasten strand with 1 single crochet around chain space, work 3 chain stitches and 5 double crochet around the same chain space, * work 5 double crochet around each of the next 13 chain spaces, work 4 double crochet around next chain space (= corner on crochet square), work 2-9-17 double crochet around stitch along edge in section between crochet squares worked with light blue, work 4 double crochet around chain space (= corner on next crochet square), continue with 5 double crochet around next 13 chain spaces, work 4 double crochet around next chain space (= corner on crochet square), work 2-10-17 double crochet around stitch along edge in section between crochet squares work with light blue, work 4 double crochet around next chain space (= corner on crochet square), continue with 5 double crochet around each of the next chain spaces, work (5 double crochet , 3 chain stitches, 5 double crochet ) around corner (= tip mid front) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time but finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, after (5 double crochet and 3 chain stitches) in tip mid back = 225-240-255 double crochet on each side of chain spaces in tips mid front and mid back.
Now work pattern from 2nd round in diagrams as follows: Work 1 chain stitch (= replaces first single crochet in A.2a), * work A.2b 15-16-17 times in width, work A.2c around chain space in tip mid front *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Continue like this in the round until diagrams A.2a to A.2c have been worked vertically. Fasten off.

NECK EDGE:
Work edge with light blue.
ROUND 1: Begin somewhere along side C, fasten strand with a single crochet in space between 2 groups with double crochet (1 group = 5 double crochet worked around same chain space). Work * 5 chain stitches, skip approx. 2 cm / 3/4'', 1 single crochet around space between the next 2 double crochet *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck. NOTE: Adjust to work 1 single crochet in tip mid front and mid back. Finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.
ROUND 2:
Work 3 chain stitches, * work 5 double crochet around first/next chain space *, repeat from *-* the entire round but in chain space on each side of tip mid front and mid back work 3 double crochet around chain spaces. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round. Fasten off.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 4 lengths of 2.5 metres/2 3/4 yds each with light wash. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread string up and down in chain spaces, i.e. in 1st round in neck edge and tie a knot mid front on poncho.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = work 4 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet around chain space/between 2 double crochet
symbols = round begins with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until middle of first chain space
symbols = round begins with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches up to 2nd chain space
symbols = round begins with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 5 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 5th chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = work 2 double crochet together around chain ring/chain space Work 1 double crochet but wait with last pull through, work 1 more double crochet but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round begins with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches until first chain space
symbols = round begins with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 half double crochet around chain space/around space between 2 triple trebles
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain space
symbols = 1 double treble in stitch/around chain space
symbols = on this row work with light blue
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Ilse wrote:

For the 2x squares for sides, do you work the increase rows for L/XL the same as the front and back? If not, how do you attach the front/back to sides with the 5DC groups not the same count?

21.01.2023 - 10:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ilse, there are no further increase on side -squares, when you worked the sides A on first 2 squares, you didn't increase neither, just just make these 2 sides longer than the 2 other ones, so that the sides A all squares should be the same width. Happy crocheting!

23.01.2023 - 08:53

country flag Margaret wrote:

I made the first 2 (front and back) squares but I am having trouble understanding the 2 side squares. Mine comes out shorter than the first 2 squares. Does not look correct. I am new at reading diagrams but I really want to make this poncho for my daughter.

24.03.2020 - 20:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Margaret, the squares on the sides should be smaller than the first 2 but you should have same number of stitches on sides B than on sides A from these 2 first squares. Happy crocheting!

25.03.2020 - 09:46

country flag Lorry wrote:

Found it! Thank you for your patience with my questions and for your timely replies. I'm looking forward to more purchases with your company. This has been a very positive experience.

13.08.2018 - 13:17

country flag Lorry wrote:

I am trying to find A.1a which I believe does not appear on your patter. I’m writing again because I have looked again right below the symbols as you answered and all I see is A.1b and to the right of that is A.2c but not A.1a. I would be most appreciative if you would reply again after double checking this. Thank you.

11.08.2018 - 16:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lorry, diagram A.1a is next to the circle in which A.1b is written, and it shows only how to start and finish the rounds. Look in the top right next to A.1b and you'll find A.1a. Happy crafting!

12.08.2018 - 17:11

country flag Lorry Ciporkin wrote:

Pattern refers to diagram A.1.a but I’m unable to identify which that is on pattern. The other references are all there but not this one. \r\n\r\nThank you.

10.08.2018 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lorry, diagram A.1 is at the bottom of the pattern, just below the diagram symbols. Happy crafting!

11.08.2018 - 15:43

country flag Leah wrote:

Are you able to provide measurements to consider which size to make?

03.08.2018 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leah, you will find all finished measurements in the chart at the bottom of the pattern. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size - measurements are taken flat from side to side - and in cm. Happy crocheting!

03.08.2018 - 15:21

country flag Jannie Hansen wrote:

Synes det er træls at opskriften kun er i forvirret diagram. Så jeg må droppe den.....

09.01.2018 - 20:55

country flag LINDA HANSEN wrote:

GREAT PONCHO! PLEASE INCLUDE!

17.01.2017 - 19:12

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Smuk Poncho

14.12.2016 - 14:58

country flag Lauren McRoberts wrote:

What a beautiful poncho, and very much in style! I would love to have this one included!

14.12.2016 - 13:33