DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Riley

Knitted men’s jumper with textured pattern and V-neck in DROPS Cotton Merino or DROPS Daisy. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 174-22
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-055
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belong to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour no 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-950 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - for rib.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.55 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. 

DECREASE TIP ARMHOLE:
Dec inside 7 sts in each side. Dec at beg of row as follows: Work 7 sts as before, slip 1 st as if to K, K next st, psso.
Dec at end of row as follows: Work until 9 sts remain, K the next 2 tog, work the last 7 sts as before.

DECREASE TIP NECK:
All dec are done from RS. Dec inside 11 sts in each side. Dec as follows before band (left front piece). Work until 13 sts remain, K the next 2 tog, work the last 11 sts as before.
Dec as follows after band (right front piece). Work 11 sts as before (= band st + 6 sts pattern), slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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JUMPER: 
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 198-222-234-258-282-306 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Cotton Merino or DROPS Daisy. K 1 round, on next round work rib over all sts as follows: P 1, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with K 1 and P 1. Work rib for 4 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work A.1 over all sts. When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm, cast off for armholes in each side as follows: Cast off the first 3-3-3-6-6-6 sts, work 93-105-111-117-129-141 sts, cast off the next 6-6-6-12-12-12 sts, work 93-105-111-117-129-141 sts, cast off the last 3-3-3-6-6-6 sts. Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 93-105-111-117-129-141 sts. Continue with A.1 as before. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS continue dec for armholes in each side - dec 1 st in each side every other row 6-12-12-15-18-24 times in total – READ DECREASE TIP ARMHOLE! = 81-81-87-87-93-93 sts. When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm, work in garter st over the middle 35-35-41-41-47-47 sts, continue the remaining sts in pattern. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, cast off the middle 25-25-31-31-37-37 sts for neck = 28 sts remain on each shoulder in all sizes. Cast off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
= 93-105-111-117-129-141 sts. Insert a marker in the middle st. Continue to dec for armholes as on back piece. When piece measures 54-56-55-55-57-59 cm, keep sts until marker, st with marker and 2 sts after marker on needle, slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder. Now work in GARTER ST – see explanation above, over 5 sts towards mid front (= band), continue with A.1 over the remaining sts as before. Continue with dec for armhole, AT THE SAME TIME dec for neck as follows - READ DECREASE TIP NECK: Dec on every other row 15-15-18-18-21-21 times in total. After all dec for armhole and neck, 28 sts remain on shoulder in all sizes. Cast off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 5 sts in garter st at the back of band on left front piece. Work as left front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 54-57-60-60-63-66 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Cotton Merino or DROPS Daisy. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. K 1 round, then work rib = K 1/P 2. When piece measures 4 cm, switch to double pointed needle size 4 mm, continue with stocking st, on 1st round with stocking st dec 4-5-6-4-5-6 sts evenly = 50-52-54-56-58-60 sts on round. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc every 4½-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm 8-11-12-18-20-22 times in total, then inc every 2 cm 5-5-5-0-0-0 times = 76-84-88-92-98-104 sts. When piece measures 54-53-53-51-51-50 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker) and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: Cast off 2 sts 5 times and 1 st 2-3-5-6-9-10 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 63-63-64-64-65-65 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 64-64-65-65-66-66 cm. Knit another sleeve.



ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.02.2017
Correction: FRONT PIECE:... When piece measures 54-56-55-55-57-59 cm, keep sts until marker, st with marker and 2 sts after marker on needle, slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder. Now work in GARTER ST – see explanation above, over 5 sts towards mid front (= band), continue with A.1 over the remaining sts as before. Continue with dec for armhole, AT THE SAME TIME dec for neck as follows - READ DECREASE TIP NECK: Dec on every other row 15-15-18-18-21-21 times in total. After all dec for armhole and neck, 28 sts remain on shoulder in all sizes...

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Vivian Jakobsen wrote:

Jeg er interesserer i at vide om det vil kunne lade sige gøre at strikke trøje i en tråd alpaca sammen med en tråd kidsilk?\r\nMvh Vivian

14.03.2024 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vivian, ja det kan lade sig gøre, men den vil blive lidt mere kompakt, strik en lille prøve og se om du kan holde strikkefastheden som står i opskriften :)

15.03.2024 - 09:31

country flag Claire wrote:

Bonjour, pour le dos, quand il est dit : au rang suivant sur l'endroit, diminuer pour les emmanchures: 12 fois 1 m de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs", il faut bien diminuer au début de chaque rang (donc une maille par rang sur 24 rangs) ? Ou alors il faut diminuer une maille après les 7 premières mailles et une autre avant les 9 dernières sur l'endroit ? Désolée, la taille n'allait pas alors j'ai du tout recommencer et j'ai oublié les explications précédentes...

27.03.2023 - 20:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire, vous diminuez comme indiqué sous DIMINUTIONS EMMANCHURES:, autrement dit à 7 m du bord = après les 7 premières mailles et avant les 7 dernières mailles, autrement dit, 2 mailles tous les rangs sur l'endroit: 1 maille au début + 1 maille en fin de rang sur l'endroit; et on répète 12 fois au total tous les 2 rangs. Bon tricot!

28.03.2023 - 10:01

country flag Micheline Lebeau wrote:

Pour une taille 52 quel modèle dois-je prendre XXL ou XXXL Merci

16.02.2023 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lebeau, mesurez un vêtement qui va au destinataire et qui lui plaît, et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma, c'est la technique la plus simple pour trouver la bonne taille - retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

17.02.2023 - 11:31

country flag Claire wrote:

Bonjour, quand il est dit ", puis rabattre 2 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 63-63-64-64-65-65 cm, " pour les manches, cela signifie t-il qu'il faut rabattre 2 fois deux mailles en début et fin de tour sur l'envers et sur l'endroit ou alors 2 mailles en début ou fin de tour sur l'envers et sur l'endroit ? Merci pour vos précisions

15.01.2023 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire, lorsque vous avez rabattu 6 mailles sous la manche, vous continuez à tricoter le haut de la manche en allers et retours en rabattant d'abord 5 x 2 mailles (= 2 mailles au début des 10 rangs suivant)s, puis 2 à 10 fois 1 m de chaque côté (1 m au début des 4 à 20 rangs suivants), puis 2 m au début des chacun des 2 rangs suivants jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 63 à 65 cm (cf taille) - ajustez bien pour que vous ayez rabattu le même nombre de fois 2 m de chaque côté, puis 3 m au début des 2 rangs suivants. Bon tricot!

16.01.2023 - 09:06

country flag Birgit wrote:

Sehr geehrter Drops Team, ich stricke das Modell 174-22. Leider verstehe ich die Anleitung (A1) nicht. Das Model wird bis zu den Ärmeln in Runden gestrickt. Wie muss ich die Runde mit den weißen Kästchen stricken? Wenn ich in Runden stricke gibt es ja keine Rückreihen. LG Birgit

09.10.2022 - 17:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Birgit, wenn Sie A.1 in Runden stricken, stricken Sie so: 1. R = alle Maschen rechts; 2. Reihe: *1 Masche links, 1 Masche rechts, 2 Maschen links, 1 Masche rechts, 2 Maschen links, 1 Masche rechts, 1 Masche links* ( = 9 M), von *-* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.10.2022 - 09:25

country flag Grecourt wrote:

Bonjour ,combien doit il rester de maille à arrêter à la fin des manches ? Merci

19.04.2022 - 12:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grecourt, cela va dépendre de votre taille mais aussi de votre tension en hauteur; ce qui est important ici est la longueur plus que le nombre de mailles restant. Rabattez bien le nombre de mailles indiqué, puis 2 mailles de chaque côté jusqu'à la hauteur indiquée en veillant bien à rabattre autant de fois 2 mailles en début de rang sur l'endroit qu'en début de rang sur l'envers, puis rabattez 3 mailles de chaque côté et rabattez les mailles restantes. Bon tricot!

19.04.2022 - 13:13

country flag Ivana wrote:

Buongiorno, non vedo le istruzioni per fare il bordo dello scollo. Le maglie vanno riprese? quante? diminuzioni x fare la punto dello scollo a V? Grazie mille

10.12.2021 - 11:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Ivana, i bordi del collo a V vengono lavorati contestualmente al davanti destro e sinistro. Buon lavoro!

10.12.2021 - 13:11

country flag Anne-Marie Bourgeois wrote:

Ouf ! Comment déterminer quel type de point utiliser pour les mailles qui ont été diminuées ? Est-ce que je tricote toujours les 7 premières et 7 dernières selon A1 ?

21.05.2021 - 01:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bourgeois, les mailles diminuées ne sont pas à tricoter car elles ont été diminuées, les autres se tricotent comme avant: en début de rang: 7 m comme avant, point fantaisie comme avant (le motif ne tombe pas forcément juste à la transition à cause de diminutions, tricotez-ces mailles comme vous le faisiez auparavant: endroit si point mousse ou envers si jersey), 7 m comme avant. Si vous ne savez plus si votre maille est à tricoter à l'endroit ou à l'envers sur l'envers, regardez-la sur l'endroit, si c'est une maille point mousse, tricotez-la à l 'endroit sur l'envers, si c'est une m jersey, tricotez-la à l'envers sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

21.05.2021 - 07:52

country flag Anne-Marie Bourgeois wrote:

Est-ce que je commence donc mon rang envers par un point endroit, ensuite un point envers, 2 points endroit, etc. ?

19.05.2021 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bourgeois, tout dépend de votre rang sur l'endroit, tricotez les mailles jersey à l'envers sur l'envers et les mailles point mousse à l'endroit sur l'endroit. Vous devez toujours avoir, vu sur l'endroit le même rythme des côtes fantaisie. Bon tricot!

19.05.2021 - 16:00

country flag Anne-Marie Bourgeois wrote:

SVP clarifier les diminutions des manches pour le dos. Je fais mes diminutions à l'endroit de mon tricot, soit en tricotant toutes mes mailles à l'endroit. Mais pour mon rang suivant, à l'envers de mon tricot, j'essaie de faire mes points tel que A1 mais ça ne fonctionne pas. Tout est décalé et je perds mon motif. Pourquoi ?

19.05.2021 - 03:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bourgeois, quand vous tricotez A.1 sur l'envers, lisez le diagramme de gauche à droite, ainsi, vous allez tricoter alternativement 2 m point mousse, 2 m jersey, autrement dit, les mailles que vous tricotiez à l'envers sur l'endroit vont maintenant se tricoter à l'endroit sur l'envers pour le point mousse. Tricotez les 7 mailles des bords comme avant et tricotez les mailles centrales aussi comme avant, le motif ne se suit pas à cause des diminutions, mais tricotez bien ces mailles en alternant point mousse et jersey, comme avant. Bon tricot!

19.05.2021 - 07:42