Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Twin River |
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Knitted DROPS men’s jumper with textured pattern and raglan in Nepal. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 174-14 |
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PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. RAGLAN: Dec as follows before A.2: Work until 2 sts remain before A.2, K the next 2 tog. Dec as follows after A.2: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso INCREASE TIP (BODY): Inc 4 sts on round as follows: Work until 1 st remains before marker in the side, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc in the other side of piece. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the new sts in garter st. INCREASE TIP (SLEEVE): Inc as follows mid under sleeve: Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, work 2 sts in garter st, 1 YO. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts gradually in the pattern. NOTE: Work sts on each side of marker in garter st. RAGLAN DEC (ELEVATION): All dec are done from RS! Dec as follows after A.2: K 3 twisted tog. Dec as follows before A.2: Work until 3 sts remain before A.2, K 3 tog. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked in the round. BODY: Cast on 150-162-168-192-210-234 sts with Nepal on circular needle size 5 mm. * P 1, (K 1, P 2), repeat from (-) 23-25-26-30-33-37 more times, K 1, P 1, insert a marker here (= side) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. NOTE: Move the markers upwards when working. Continue rib in the round like this until piece measures 4 cm. Now work pattern A.1 as follows: Work the last 2 sts in A.1, then repeat A.1 the entire round until 1 st remains on round, work the first st in A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 13-13-14-14-15-15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker – see INCREASE TIP (BODY). Repeat inc when piece measures 27-28-29-29-30-30 cm = 158-170-176-200-218-242 sts. When piece measures 41-41-42-42-42-42 cm (adjust so that next round worked is 2nd round in A.1), cast off sts for armholes as follows: Cast off the first 5 sts on round, work the next 69-75-78-90-99-111 sts, cast off the next 10 sts for armhole, work the next 69-75-78-90-99-111 sts, cast off the remaining 5 sts. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts with Nepal on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Work rib as follows: P 1, K 1, * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains on round, P 1. Continue like this in the round until rib measures 4 cm. Now work pattern as follows: Work the last 2 sts in A.1, A.1 until 1 st remains on round, work the first st in A.1. When piece measures 9-8-7-6-10-9 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker – see INCREASE TIP (SLEEVE). Inc like this approx. every 13th-9th-7th-7th-6th-5th round 8-11-14-14-14-17 times in total = 58-64-70-76-76-82 sts. When piece measures 51-50-49-48-47-46 cm - adjust so that next round worked is 2nd round in A.1, cast off the middle 10 sts under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 48-54-60-66-66-72 sts. Knit another sleeve the same way. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 5 mm as body where armholes were cast off = 234-258-276-312-330-366 sts. This is done without working the sts. Insert a marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Beg round on back piece, 4 sts after marker between sleeve and back piece. Now continue pattern as before and work in addition A.2 (= 8 sts) in every transition between body and sleeves (markers are in the middle of A.2). On next round start dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above! NOTE: Dec differently on body and sleeves as follows: RAGLAN BODY: Dec every other round 21-24-24-24-26-26 times and then every round 0-0-0-6-7-13 times (= 21-24-24-30-33-39 times in total). RAGLAN SLEEVES: Dec every 4th round 6-6-4-3-5-5 times and then every other round 9-12-17-21-19-22 times (= 15-18-21-24-24-27 times in total). When all dec are done, 90-90-96-96-102-102 sts remain on round (= 144-168-180-216-228-264 sts in total dec). Now work pattern as before over the first 72-72-78-78-84-84 sts. Insert marker here (= between A.2 and right sleeve). Then work an elevation back and forth in neck in pattern as before AT THE SAME TIME dec for raglan on every row from RS over the sts worked – READ RAGLAN DEC (ELEVATION) as follows: NOTE: Tighten yarn at every turn to avoid holes. ROW 1 (= RS): Work 55-55-58-58-61-61 sts (including the 8 dec sts), ROW 2 (= WS): Turn and work 45-45-48-48-51-51 sts, ROW 3: Turn and work 43-43-46-46-49-49 sts (including the 8 dec sts), ROW 4: Turn and work 33-33-36-36-39-39 sts. There are now 74-74-80-80-86-86 sts on round. Turn and continue in the round with rib as follows: Work K over K and P over sts in garter st until rib measures 4 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. Jumper measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm from cast-on edge and up to shoulder. Fasten off. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (198)
Bianka wrote:
Kedves Garnstudio! M-es méretet kötök. Vállrésznél a testrésznél 24x4szemet fogyasztok körönként, ujjakon összesen 18x8szemet=240 szemet fogyasztottam összesen. A minta viszont 168szemet fogyaszt összesen. Tudnának segíteni mi lehet a baj?
12.03.2021 - 15:02DROPS Design answered:
Kedves Bianka, csak 2 szemet kell fogyasztania az elején és a hátán és ujján, vagyis 12 szem X 24 alkalommal az eleje / háta darabon, = összesen 96 szem a testen és 2 szem x 18 alkalommal x 2 ujján= 72 szem. Eredetileg 258 szemmel indult - 96-72= 90 szem maradt. Sikeres kötést!
23.03.2021 - 00:23Liette Boucher wrote:
J'essai de suivre votre patron mais il n'est pas facile a suivre. Voci ma question quand on fait une jete de chaque cote des marqueurs ont les tricoter en point mousse part la suite au prochain tour, si oui nous n'avons plus le style du debut qui est une maille a l'end, 2 a l'env etc. alors comment faire pour continuer avec le meme style du debut?
11.03.2021 - 18:27DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Boucher, les augmentations sur les côtés se tricotent au point mousse (1 tour à l'endroit, 1 tour à l'envers), et les mailles du devant et du dos se tricotent comme avant dans le point fantaisie. On augmente que 2 mailles avant ou après chaque marqueur (4 mailles par tour au total x 2 ), autrement dit, on n'augmente pas assez pour tricoter un nouveau motif du point fantaisie, raison pour laquelle les augmentations se tricotent au point mousse. Bon tricot!
12.03.2021 - 08:23Jette Ottesen wrote:
Jeg skal nu strikke mønster over de første 84 masker i XXL og derefter sætte en markering. Herefter skal jeg strikke 61 masker og lave forhøjningen. Den forhøjning ender altså på et af ærmerne, når der tælles på denne måde. Det kan ikke være rigtigt. Samtidigt skriver I hele tiden 8 masker til raglanindtagninger. Hvordan kan det blive det, når der skal strikkes 3 masker sammen på raglan ved forhøjning? Kan I hjælpe?
23.02.2021 - 16:09Cynthell93 wrote:
Ik ben aangekomen in het patroon bij het afmaken van de trui. Ik moet alleen de hals nog. Ik heb 90 steken op de rondbreinaald. Ik heb 72 steken gebreit in de eerste naald van het telpatroon. Markeerder geplaatst en vanaf hier begrijp ik het patroon niet meer! Als ik 55 steken terug ga breien zit ik a. Aan de verkeerde kant en b. Ik kom maar langs 5 punten waarop ik moet minderen waarop de trui voor de rest van de steken ongebreit is een scheef zal worden. Hoe moet dit?
22.02.2021 - 21:59DROPS Design answered:
Dag Cynthell93,
Het is de bedoeling dat je vanaf dat punt verder breit, dus vanaf de rechter mouw brei je NLD 1 zoals beschreven, pas na deze eerste naald keer je het werk en brei je naald 2 enz.
23.02.2021 - 12:21Cynthell93 wrote:
Ik ben aangekomen in het patroon bij het afmaken van de trui. Ik moet alleen de hals nog. Ik heb 90 steken op de rondbreinaald. Ik heb 72 steken gebreit in de eerste naald van het telpatroon. Markeerder geplaatst en vanaf hier begrijp ik het patroon niet meer! Als ik 55 steken terug ga breien zit ik a. Aan de verkeerde kant en b. Ik kom maar langs 5 punten waarop ik moet minderen waarop de trui voor de rest van de steken ongebreit is een scheef zal worden. Hoe moet dit?
22.02.2021 - 21:59Jette Ottesen wrote:
Hvor ville det bare være rigtig rart, hvis der var et billede af udtagningerne på siderne af ryg og forstykke. I øjeblikket laver jeg udtagningerne i perlestrik, men der står i opskriften, at de skal strikkes i ret. Er det muligt at vise et billede? På forhånd tak.
08.02.2021 - 15:24DROPS Design answered:
Hei Jette. Vi har dessverre ikke flere bilder på denne modellen. Når du strikker dette strukturmønstret, så vil det nesten se ut som perlestrikk (dobbelt perlesrikk i bredden). Du strikker 1 omgang med strukturstrikk, neste omgang strikkes det bare rettmasker. mvh DROPS design
15.02.2021 - 11:46Cynthell93 wrote:
Ik start het breiwerk met 150 steken. Na het volgen van de eerste instructie, zou er een markeerder moeten komen in de 51ste steek. Die wordt herhaald, dan zit de tweede markeerder in de 102ste steek. Dan hou ik nog 48 steken over? Waar brei je deze dan in? En bij het verder breien, moeten de steken dan hetzelfde zijn als die eronder? (Staat erg onlogisch uitgelegd, ik krijg nu een vreemde onderste rand?)
29.01.2021 - 19:45DROPS Design answered:
Dag Cynthell93,
Je breit 1 averecht, 1 recht 2 averecht (= 4 steken). Dan brei je nog 23 keer 1 recht, 2 averecht (=23 x 3 = 69 steken). Tot slot 1 recht, 1 averecht = 2 steken. Je hebt dan 75 steken gebreid, waarna je de markeerdraad plaatst (tussen 2 steken).
31.01.2021 - 20:16Mariarosaria wrote:
Nell'alzata dietro nel secondo ferro cioè rovescio del lavoro devo lavorarlo tutto a rovescio? Come si fa a seguire il motivo come prima?
29.01.2021 - 12:19DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Mariarosaria, deve lavorare come prima. Buon lavoro!
30.01.2021 - 12:41Jan wrote:
Ich hätte eine Frage bezüglich der Erhöhung am Rückenteil. Mich irritiert, dass laut Angabe 8 Maschen pro Abnahmereihe abgenommen werden. Laut Anleitung müssen hierzu links und rechts vor dem Muster A2 3 Maschen rechts zusammengestrickt werden. Dadurch würden nur 4 Maschen pro Abnahmereihe abgenommen werden. Ich habe es mehrmals durchgelesen und kann meinen Denkfehler nicht finden. Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe!
25.01.2021 - 10:22DROPS Design answered:
Lieber Jan, bei der Erhöhung werden nur 8 Maschen zugenommen: 2 am Ende der rechten Ärmel + 4 beim Rückenteil (= 2 am Anfang + 2 am Ende) + 2 am Anfang von linken Ärmel. Und gleichzeitig stricken Sie die verkürzten Reihen (immer weniger Maschen von den Ärmeln werden gestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
25.01.2021 - 11:53Mariarosaria wrote:
Buongiorno è indifferente se quando devo fare le diminuzioni per lo sprone le faccio sul ferro tutto diritto oppure sul ferro con 2 rovesci e un diritto? Grazie
24.01.2021 - 22:22DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Mariarosa, si è indifferente. Buon lavoro!
24.01.2021 - 22:35