DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 174-4
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-364
Yarn group A
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Size: S /M – L/ XL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100 g colour no 200, grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rounds in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. To avoid holes K YO twisted on next round.
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LEFT GLOVE: 
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 58-66 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Fabel. K 1 round, then work rib (= K 1/P 1) for 7 cm. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! K 1 round while dec 4-6 sts evenly = 54-60 sts. Then work in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 1-2 cm, beg inc for thumb gusset. Inc 1 st on each side of the next to last st on round – SEE INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3rd round a total of 6-7 times (inc on each side of the inc sts) = 13-15 thumb sts and 66-74 sts in total. When piece measures 6-7 cm, slip thumb sts + 1 st on each side (= 15-17 sts) on 1 stitch holder. Cast on 3 new sts behind the thumb sts = 54-60 sts. Continue in stocking st in the round until piece measures 9-11 cm. Now slip the first 21-23 sts on round (= on top of hand) on a stitch holder, keep the next 12-13 sts on needle and slip the last 21-24 sts inside the hand on another stitch holder. 

PINKIE: 
= 12-13 sts, cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 13-14 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for approx. 5½ -6½ cm, then K all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. 

HAND: 
Slip sts from stitch holders back on the needles, pick in addition up 2 sts towards the little finger = 44-49 sts. Work 2 rounds in stocking st. Keep the 2 sts that were pick up towards the little finger + 6-6 sts on top of hand and 6-7 sts inside the hand on the needle. Slip the remaining sts back on 2 stitch holders (= 15-17 sts on top of hand and 15-17 sts inside the hand). 

RING FINGER: 
= 14-15 sts, cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 15-16 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for approx. 7-8 cm, then K all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. 

MIDDLE FINGER: 
Slip the next 7-8 sts from each stitch holder back on the needle, knit in addition up 2 sts towards the ring finger and cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 17-19 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for approx. 7½-8½ cm, then K all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. 

INDEX FINGER: 
Slip the remaining 16-18 sts from stitch holders back on the needles, pick in addition up 2 sts towards the middle finger = 18-20 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for approx. 6½-7½ cm, then K all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. 

THUMB: 
Slip the sts from thumb gusset on the needles and knit in addition up 3 sts along the edge behind the thumb sts = 18-20 sts. Work in stocking st in the round for approx. 5½-6 cm, then K all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. 

RIGHT GLOVE: 
Work as left but reversed, i.e. inc for thumb gusset on each side of second st on round (instead of each side of next to last st on round).
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Melanie wrote:

Hi! I'm not not sure which are the thumb stitches to put on a stitch holder. I assume that they are the last 15 stitches of the round that have been created by the increases - but could you clarify please. Thank you 😊

17.02.2024 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Melanie, the thumb stitches are marked when you start working the glove, as the next to last stitch and increases on each side of this stitch. When slipping them to the auxiliary needle, you would need to slip the last 15 stitches (the 13 thumb stitches, plus 1 on each side). Happy knitting!

18.02.2024 - 23:09

country flag Nadine wrote:

Hello! I am having trouble understanding the thumb gusset part on the left glove ( Inc 1 st on each side of the next to last st on round ) What does "on each side" mean here? And what does "next to last stitch" mean? Could you please help? Thanks a lot!

25.12.2023 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nadine, the next to last stitch is the stitch right before the last stitch on the round. For example, if you have 10 stitches on a round, the next to last stitch would be the 9th stitch. On each side means before and after the stitch. In the same example, you would increase before the 9th stitch and after the 9th stitch. The next time you increase 1 stitch before the increased stitches (9th-10th-11th) and 1 stitch after them (2 increases in total). Happy knitting!

28.12.2023 - 23:39

country flag Amanda wrote:

Vad är skillnad på att lägga upp eller sticka upp m? Och ”sticka upp 2 m mot lillfingret” 1 i handen och en uppepå då eller 2 direkt i handen?

29.11.2023 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Amanda, du stickar upp 2 maskor i maskorna till lillfingret, så du kan fortsätta runt på handen :)

30.11.2023 - 10:23

country flag Martin wrote:

Bonjour, comment savoir si il faut prendre du S/M ou L/XL ? Je ne vois pas les mesures, merci.

06.11.2021 - 13:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Martin, avec un échantillon de 26 m = 10 cm, en S/M vous aurez environ 21 cm de tour de main et en XL environ 23 cm de tour de main (après le pouce, avant la division des doigts). Bon tricot!

08.11.2021 - 07:31

country flag Olga Teresa Gagliardi wrote:

Uso agujas circulares puedo tejer guantes con ellas ? Gracias

02.02.2021 - 23:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Olga! No es possible. Tienes que usar AGUJAS DE DOBLE PUNTA. Buen trabajo!

03.02.2021 - 09:45

country flag Karolina wrote:

... (folytatás) ennél súlyosabb hibák is gyakran előfordulnak. Ebben a kötésleírásban például a kézfejnél azt írja, hogy folytassuk 3mm-es kötőtűn, holott se az angol leírásban nem ír ilyet, sem a szükséges eszközöknél.

21.04.2019 - 18:58

country flag Karolina wrote:

Kedves fordító(k)! Eddig ahány mintát csak elkezdtem kötni, mindegyikben találtam fordítási hibát. Gyakorlatilag képtelenség követni a mintákat helyesen anélkül, hogy az angol nyelvű verzióval összehasonlítsam a magyar nyelvű leírásokat. Javaslom, hogy nézzék át a fordításokat, mert nem hiszem, hogy minden magyar felhasználó tud angolul. A leggyakoribb hiba, hogy nem egyeznek a szem számok vagy az anyagszükségletnél megadott mennyiségek...

21.04.2019 - 18:54

country flag Ritadeweerd wrote:

Hoeveel steken voor welke maat?

26.10.2018 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ritadeweerd,

Als er staat 'Zet 58-66 st op...' dan betekent dat dat je 58 steken op moet zetten voor maat S/M en 66 steken voor maat L/XL.

28.10.2018 - 17:29

country flag Sara wrote:

Salve le misure di questo modello sono per un guanto da uomo? Grazie

08.08.2017 - 14:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Sara, si, il 174 è un catalogo di modelli da uomo! Buon lavoro!

08.08.2017 - 18:06