DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
4.60 £ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 4.60 £ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Radiant Darling |
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Knitted jumper in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk with raglan and rib, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS Extra 0-1323 |
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INCREASE TIP: Inc 2 sts before marker as follows: Work until 3 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 2, marker. Inc 2 sts after marker as follows: Work until marker, K 2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO. Inc 1 sts before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, 1 YO, K 2, marker. Inc 1 sts after marker as follows: Work until marker, K 2, 1 YO. K YO twisted on next round, it should not make holes. DECREASE TIP: Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 1, marker. Dec 1 st after marker as follows: Work until marker, K 1, K 2 tog. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Rounds beg = mid back. Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm. Switch to 1 strand of each quality and work 1 round rib. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work one round in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-16-16-20-20-24 sts evenly = 76-76-80-80-84-84 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Then work in stocking st - AT THE SAME TIME on next round inc 8-8-16-24-36-40 sts evenly = 84-84-96-104-120-124 sts. Then insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: 16-16-18-20-23-23 sts in stocking st, insert 1st marker (= half back piece), 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts in stocking st, insert 2nd marker (= sleeve), 32-32-36-40-46-46 sts in stocking st, insert 3rd marker (= front piece), 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts in stocking st, insert 4th marker (= sleeve), 16-16-18-20-23-23 sts in stocking st (= half back piece). Work in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME inc for raglan – READ INCREASE TIP - as follows: Inc differently on sleeves and body. RAGLAN BODY: Inc before 1st and 3rd marker and after 2nd and 4th marker as follows: Inc 2 sts every other round 2-4-5-7-8-10 times in total, then 1 st every other round 17-16-16-15-15-14 times in total = 74-80-88-98-108-114 sts on front piece and 37-40-44-49-54-57 sts on each half back piece. RAGLAN SLEEVE: Inc after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker (= 2 sts inc on each sleeve) as follows: Inc 1 st every other round 19-20-21-22-23-24 times in total = 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on sleeve. After all inc are done there are 244-260-284-308-336-356 sts on needle. Work next round as follows: 37-40-44-49-54-57 sts in stocking st, slip the next 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 sts under sleeve, 74-80-88-98-108-114 sts in stocking st, slip the next 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 sts under sleeve, 37-40-44-49-54-57 sts in stocking st = 164-176-192-212-232-244 sts. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. BODY: Work in stocking st. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, inc 8 sts evenly = 172-184-200-220-240-252 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 round rib = K 2/P 2. Switch to 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk and work rib until piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. SLEEVE: Slip the 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Cast on 8 sts at the end of round = 56-58-62-64-68-72 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of these new sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in the round in stocking st. When piece measures 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every 4½-4-3½-3-3-2½ cm 8-9-10-11-12-13 more times = 38-38-40-40-42-44 sts. When piece measures 41 cm, inc 2-2-4-4-6-4 sts evenly = 40-40-44-44-48-48 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 1 round rib = K 2/P 2. Switch to 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk and work rib until piece measures 46 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (25)
Mare wrote:
Tere! Kas raglaani kasvatamine varukal ja kehaosal toimub erinevatel ringidel? St ühel ringil kasvatan kehaosa ja teisel ringil varukaosa jne kordamööda? Sest kasvatamise kohad (enne ja pärast SM-i on varukal ja kehaosal samad)? Mare
11.10.2018 - 14:34DROPS Design answered:
Tere Mare! Ikka samal ringil , lihtsalt õhksilmuste arv on erinev. Head kudumist!
14.10.2018 - 00:10Federica wrote:
Scusate se disturbo ancora, ma credo di aver individuato un errore nella spiegazione "Raglan sul corpo" per quanto riguarda lo schema in italiano. Quando c'è scritto "aumentare 2 m a giri alterni 4-5-7-8-10 volte in totale", manca l'indicazione per la taglia S. Spero di non essermi sbagliata. Grazie per l'attenzione
27.03.2018 - 12:37DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Federica. Abbiamo corretto il testo e anche la risposta al suo quesito precedente. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!
27.03.2018 - 14:20Federica wrote:
Ciao, è possibile avere dei chiarimenti per quanto riguarda il raglan sul corpo e sulle maniche? Come devo distribuire gli aumenti? Grazie
27.03.2018 - 09:26DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Federica. P.es per la taglia S aumenta per il raglan così: deve aumentare prima dei segni 1 e 3 e dopo i segni 2 e 4 : 2 m (come spiegato all’inizio delle spiegazioni) un giro sì e uno no per 2 volte e poi 1 maglia (sempre un giro sì e uno no) per 17 volte. Per le maniche aumenta dopo i segni 1 e 3 e prima dei segni 2 e 4, un giro sì e uno no, per 19 volte. Buon lavoro!
27.03.2018 - 11:09Federica wrote:
Ciao, è possibile avere dei chiarimenti per quanto riguarda il raglan sul corpo e sulle maniche? Come devo distribuire gli aumenti? Grazie
23.03.2018 - 11:53Bodil wrote:
Arbejdet bliver alt for langt, inden man har lavet alle udtagninger til ærmer. D.v.s. at arbejdets armhule hænger meget lavere end min krops armhule. Helt forkert, også når jeg måler med andre lignende trøjer. Raglan på billedet er også en anden end den opskriften frembringer.(Man kan se det når man zoomer ind på billedet med sin telefon.
23.01.2018 - 18:36DROPS Design answered:
Hei Bodil. Husk å sjekke strikkefastheten din at den stemmer med det som er oppgitt i oppskriften og målene i målskissen. Målene på raglan er veldig lik andre modeller vi har. Å se nøyaktig hvordan raglan er på bildet er litt vanskelig da modellen står litt på skrå og den ene armen vender bakover og den andre armen har en del hår over raglan fellingen. mvh Drops design
26.01.2018 - 09:32Alexandra wrote:
Right after the rib on neckline, there is a decrease evenly and in the next row an increase evenly. Why?
01.09.2017 - 20:02DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alexandra, you decrease number of sts after rib to get the correct width/circumference (rib are tightening), then you inc on next row to the correct number of sts of body for yoke -this will give then the desired effect. Happy knitting!
04.09.2017 - 09:42Francine Belisle wrote:
Merci,je crois que j'ai de la difficulté avec le patron.Lorsque je mets les marqueurs,je commence avec 16 mailles en jersey.Est-ce que je les rajoutent à chaque rang d'augmentations? Merci
16.06.2017 - 13:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Belisle, vous commencez par 16 m pour le demi-dos, vous augmentez d'abord 2 m avant le marqueur pour le demi-dos = 18 m pour le demi-dos - les marqueurs restent en place, les augmentations du raglan se feront soit avant le marqueur soit après le marqueur, sur la partie à augmenter. En taille S par ex, vous augmentez sur le dos et le devant: 2x2 m tous les 2 tours puis 17 x 1 m tous les 2 tours = 74 m pour le devant et 37 m pour chaque demi-dos. Pour les manches, vous augmentez 19 x 1 m (au début + à la fin de chaque manche) = 48 m. Bon tricot!
16.06.2017 - 16:33Francine Belisle wrote:
Bonjour,je suis débutante.Est-ce que je peux tricher...je n'ai pas le mêne nombre de mailles après les augmentations.Mon décompte est d'environ 240 mailles.Pour les jetés,j'ai fait des gros trous pcq je ne sais pas comment les tricoter sur le rang suivant. Merci!
15.06.2017 - 23:12DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Belisle, si vous n'avez pas le bon nombre de mailles pour chaque partie (voir réponse précédente), votre pull risque de ne pas avoir les bonnes mesures, vérifiez bien si vous avez fait le bon nombre d'augmentations pour votre taille et au bon endroit. Bon tricot!
16.06.2017 - 09:02Francine Belisle wrote:
Bonjour,je suis débutante.Est-ce que je peux tricher...je n'ai pas le mêne nombre de mailles après les augmentations.Mon décompte est d'environ 240 mailles.Pour les jetés,j'ai fait des gros trous pcq je ne sais pas comment les tricoter sur le rang suivant. Merci!
15.06.2017 - 23:10DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Belisle, vérifiez bien le nombre de mailles & d'augmentations que vous avez fait pour chaque partie, vous devez avoir 74-114 m (cf taille) pour le devant, 37-57 m pour chaque demi-dos et 48-64 m pour chaque manche. La vidéo ci-dessous montre comment tricoter les jetés torse au rang suivant. Bon tricot!
16.06.2017 - 09:00Chiara wrote:
Salve, mi chiedevo se questo schema può essere utilizzato con le stesse misure con il filato Alpaca Boucle. Grazie!
17.01.2017 - 15:32DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Chiara. Sì può sostituire i due filati Kid Silk e Babyalpaca Silk (entrambi gruppo A) con l’alpaca Bouclé (gruppo C). 1 capo di un filato del gruppo C corrisponde a due capi di un filato del gruppo A. Alla seguente pagina trova le indicazioni corrette per sostituire i filati e calcolare le quantità occorrenti. Buon lavoro!
17.01.2017 - 15:48