DROPS Extra / 0-1325

Shades of Grey Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca with round yoke, stripes and lace pattern, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-745
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 100, off white
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 9020, light pearl grey
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no 501, light grey
150-200-200-200-250-250 g colour no 517, medium grey
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour no 506, dark grey
NOTE: Garment worked in one colour = 450-500-550-600-650-700 g with 2 strands Alpaca.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 strands Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for garter st - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st with 2 strands Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7 pieces in all sizes
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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (14)

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

ELEVATION AT THE BACK:
NOTE: On every turn in the middle of piece slip 1st st, tighten yarn and continue to work.
Work an elevation in stocking st at the back of neck as follows, beg from WS: K 4 (= band), P over the next 52-54-58-60-62-69 sts, insert a marker here (= mid back), continue over the next 8-9-10-11-11-12 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 16-18-20-22-22-24 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 29-31-33-35-35-37 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 42-44-46-48-48-50 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 50-52-54-56-56-58 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 58-60-62-64-64-66 sts. Turn and P until 4 sts remain on needle, K 4.

STRIPES:
Work all stripes with 2 strands Alpaca. When approx. 1 cm in 1st-5th stripe remain, work a EYELET ROW - see explanation below.
Stripe 1: 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm with 2 strands off white.
Stripe 2: 9-9-10-10-10-11 cm with 1 strand off white + 1 strand light pearl grey.
Stripe 3: 9-9-10-10-10-11 cm with 1 strand light pearl grey + 1 strand light grey.
Stripe 4: 9-10-10-10-11-11 cm with 1 strand light grey + 1 strand medium grey.
Stripe 5: 9-10-10-10-11-11 cm with 2 strands medium grey.
Stripe 6: 1 strand medium grey + 1 strand dark grey until finished measurements.

EYELET ROW:
When approx. 1 cm remains on stripe 1-5, work an eyelet row as follows, beg from RS: Work 4 band sts in garter st, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, 4 band sts in garter st. NOTE: If 1 st remains on row before the last 4 band sts this round, K this st. On next round P the YOs to make holes.
NOTE: When working eyelet row on sleeves, work in the round. K the YOs on next round to make holes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to inc evenly, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 96 sts), minus bands (e.g. 8 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 16) = 5.5. I.e. in this example inc 1 st after 5th and 6th st alternately and do not inc over bands.
INCREASE TIP-2 (yoke):
Inc as follows from RS: Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YOs twisted to avoid holes.
Inc as follows from WS: Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
Inc alternately on right and left side of each marker seen from RS. I.e. first time inc on the right side of all markers and second time inc on the left side of all markers, etc.

INCREASE TIP-3 (body):
All inc are done from RS.
Work until 2 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is between these sts), 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. NOTE: Adjust dec to avoid it on a round with eyelet row.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn). Dec from RS when 3 sts remain on row as follows: Make 1 YO, K the next 2 sts tog, K last st. On next round K the YO to make a hole.
Dec for 1st buttonhole when piece measures 2 cm (measured along band). Then dec the next 5 buttonholes on the same row while working eyelet row. Dec for 7th buttonhole (= last buttonhole) when piece measures 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth on circular needle. Worked in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 96-100-103-107-111-117 sts (incl 4 band sts in each side towards mid front) with 2 strands off white on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS while inc 16-16-21-21-21-23 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly), do not inc over bands = 112-116-124-128-132-140 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. For better shape work an ELEVATION AT THE BACK, see explanation above, in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Now work in stocking st with 4 band sts in garter st in each side and insert 6 markers as follows: Work 13-13-14-14-15-15 sts, insert a marker, work 17-18-19-20-20-22 sts, insert a marker, work 17-18-19-20-20-22 sts, insert a marker, work 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts, insert a marker, work 17-18-19-20-20-22 sts, insert a marker work 17-18-19-20-20-22 sts, insert a marker, work the remaining 13-13-14-14-15-15 sts. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! Continue back and forth with STRIPES and EYELET ROW - see explanation above. On next row from RS, inc 1 st at every marker – Read INCREASE TIP-2 (yoke). Inc like this every round 13-17-19-20-21-21 times, then every other round 8-8-8-10-12-14 times (= 21-25-27-30-33-35 times in total) = 238-266-286-308-330-350 sts. Work 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-4-2-2-4-2 sts evenly = 240-270-288-310-334-352 sts. Now work next row from WS as follows: Work the first 38-42-44-48-53-57 sts (= left front piece), slip the next 48-55-60-63-65-66 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the next 68-76-80-88-98-106 sts (= back piece), slip the next 48-55-60-63-65-66 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 38-42-44-48-53-57 sts (= right front piece).

BODY:
There are now 156-172-184-200-224-244 sts for body. Insert a marker in the middle of the new 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts cast on under each sleeve (= 3-3-4-4-5-6 new sts on each side). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue back and forth with 4 band sts in each side towards mid front, stripes, stocking st and eyelet row as before. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 2 cm a total of 4 times = 140-156-168-184-208-228 sts. When piece measures 15-15-16-16-16-16 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side – see INCREASE TIP-3 (body). Inc like this every 2 cm a total of 7 times = 168-184-196-212-236-256 sts. When piece measures 39-39-40-40-40-40 cm, switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges in garter st and cast off - READ CAST-OFF TIP. Piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm in total from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm (= 48-55-60-63-65-66 sts). Pick up 1 st in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts cast on under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these sts (= 3-3-4-4-5-6 new sts on each side of marker) = 54-61-68-71-75-78 sts. Continue with stocking st, stripes and eyelet holes as on body. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve. Dec like this approx. every 4-3-2-2-2-2 cm 9-12-15-15-16-17 times in total = 36-37-38-41-43-44 sts. AT THE SAME TIME in size S, M and L work 3rd, 4th and 5th stripe 2-2-1 cm longer than on body (this is done so that the last stripes will not be much more longer than the other). In size XL, XXL and XXXL work stripes as on body.
Work 6th stripe until piece measures 46-45-44-42-41-39 cm: Now work an eyelet row. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges and cast off.
Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.01.2017
BODY:
Continue back and forth with 4 band sts in each side towards mid front, stripes, stocking st and eyelet row as before.

Diagram


Donica 30.08.2018 - 06:02:

I previously posted as a comment. My question is: can this pattern be knit with a single strand of alpaka yarn to create a lighter weight sweater? My understanding is that this sweater is heavy and made to be worn outdoors.

DROPS Design 30.08.2018 kl. 08:18:

Hi Donica, If you wish to use a lighter garn you will have to work out the knitting tension and then adjust the number of rows and stitches on a row so that the piece has the right measurements. It takes some work, but can be done! Happy knitting!

Donica 30.08.2018 - 05:48:

I am told that alpak a yarn knit with double strands will make a very warm sweater. I have the yarn in this array of gray but wish the sweater to be a lighter weight to be worn indoors as part of an outfit. I love the pattern. Can I knit this sweater with a single strand of each color? How would I convert?

DROPS Design 06.09.2018 kl. 09:56:

Dear Donica, we use here 2 strands to get smoother stripes. You can use instead of 2 strands yarn group A 1 strand yarn group C - read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

A HERVE 23.07.2018 - 13:36:

Bonjour, Pour les augmentations 2 (empiècement), faut-il augmenter 1 maille sur les rangs endroits uniquement ou 1m sur l'endroit et 1m sur l'envers? Merci

DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 14:40:

Bonjour Mme Herve, on augmente pour l'empiècement d'abord tous les rangs (et non tours, correction faite), puis tous les 2 rangs, quand on augmente tous les rangs, on va augmenter alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers, quand on augmente tous les 2 rangs, on augmente seulement sur les rangs sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

A HERVE 16.04.2018 - 10:33:

Lorsque vous parlez de TOURS pour les augmentations , page 5,est_ce qu' un tour signifie un aller_retour,c'est à dire 2 rangs?1 jeté sur l'endroit tricoté en maille torse sur l'envers? Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 16.04.2018 kl. 12:18:

Bonjour Mme Hervé, l'empiècement se tricote en allers et retours, quand on augmente, on va tricoter en rangs et non en tours (seules les manches se tricotent en rond ensuite). La correction sera bientôt faite, merci. Bon tricot!

A HERVE 16.04.2018 - 10:28:

Lorsque pour les augmentations p5 vous parlrez de TOURS , est-ce que un tour =un aller retour? Jeté à l'endroit et maille torse tricotée sur l'envers Merci

Iwona 30.08.2017 - 16:55:

Dziękuję!

Iwona 28.08.2017 - 22:11:

Mam też problem z dołem swetra, francuski ściągacz wywija się do góry, co robię żle?

DROPS Design 29.08.2017 kl. 18:34:

Witaj, po zakończeniu pracy należy namoczyć lekko sweter i blokować (naciągnąć zwijający się brzeg i przypiąć szpilkami do materaca lub dywanu i suszyć rozłożony na płasko). To powinno pomóc. POWODZENIA!

Iwona 28.08.2017 - 22:08:

Problem mam w tym miejscu karczka ''Dodawać tak samo 13-17-19-20-21-21 razy w każdym okrążeniu, dalej 8-8-8-10-12-14 razy co 2 okr'', czyli jak dodawać?

DROPS Design 29.08.2017 kl. 18:32:

Witaj Iwono, na karczku dodajemy po 1 oczku w miejscu każdego markera – PATRZ DODAWANIE OCZEK-2 (karczek). Np. w rozmiarze S dodajemy oczka 13 razy w każdym rzędzie (tj. i na prawej i na lewej stronie robótki, w sumie będziemy dodawać oczka na 13 rzędach), dalej dodajemy oczka 8 razy co 2 rzędy (tylko na prawej stronie robótki, tj. 16 kolejnych rzędów) = w sumie dodajemy oczka 21 razy. POWODZENIA!

Iwona 28.08.2017 - 12:49:

Jak rozumieć ''okrążenie'' w swetrze rozpinanym? Proszę o dokładne wyjaśnienie dodawania oczek na karczku.

DROPS Design 28.08.2017 kl. 13:09:

Witaj Iwono, oczywiście chodzi o rzędy, na okrągło są wykonywane tylko rękawy. Co do dodawania oczek na karczku, proszę sprecyzować jaki dokładnie jest problem. Pozdrawiam

Maga 24.07.2017 - 22:02:

Ich habe Schwierigkeiten bei den Zunahmen in der Passe, sei es mit dem genauen Positionieren (vor bzw. nach dem Marker), als auch mit der Ausführung. Es sollen ja keine Löcher entstehen und das passt auch, allerdings wird meine Arbeit nicht sehr schön und ich frage mich, ob durch das einmal vor und einmal nach dem Markierer Zunehmen nicht so eine Art Muster entstehen soll?

DROPS Design 25.07.2017 kl. 09:39:

Liebe Maga, bei der 1. Zunahemenrunde werden Sie vor jedem Markierer zunehmen, bei der 2. Zunahmenrunde werden Sie nach jedem Markierer zunehmen, und so weiterstricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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