DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% vlna
od 98.00 Kč /50g
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 784.00Kč.

Cenu za klubka počítáme podle spotřeby při výrobě modelu v nejmenší velikosti a nejlevnější variantě příze. Rádi byste ještě lepší cenu? Třeba ji najdete mezi DROPS Deals!

DROPS Extra 0-1309
DROPS design: model č. mb-027
Skupina přízí: C nebo A + A
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Velikost: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

Materiál:
DROPS BIG MERINO firmy Garnstudio
200-250-250 g, barva č. 01, smetanová
150-150-200 g, barva č. 19, béžová
150-150-200 g, barva č. 09, levandule

DROPS HÁČEK č. 5,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k uháčkování zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 13 DS x 8 řad = 10 x 10 cm.

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Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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DROPS Big Merino
DROPS Big Merino
100% vlna
od 98.00 Kč /50g
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 784.00Kč.

Cenu za klubka počítáme podle spotřeby při výrobě modelu v nejmenší velikosti a nejlevnější variantě příze. Rádi byste ještě lepší cenu? Třeba ji najdete mezi DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Platí do 12.04.2024

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schéma A.2. Začátek kruhové řady leží za vzorem A.1. Kruhovou řadu končíme 1 pevným okem do 1./3. řo v kruhové řadě.

SLED PRUHŮ:
Pončo háčkujeme v barevných pruzích, viz č. 1-3 ve schématu.
Barva č. 1 = smetanová.
Barva č. 2 = béžová.
Barva č. 3 = levandule.

TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
Přidáváme rozháčkováním 1 DS na dva (tj. do 1 DS uháčkujeme 2 DS).
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PONČO:
Háčkujeme v kruhových řadách shora dolů. Barvy střídáme dle SLEDU PRUHŮ – viz výše.

Háčkem č. 5,5 uháčkujeme smetanovou přízí 92-99-113 řo a spojíme je pevným okem do kroužku. Pak 1 DS do 1. řo, *1 řo vynecháme, po 1 DS do každého z dalších 6 řo*, *-* opakujeme = 79-85-97 DS. Pokračujeme takto: vzor A.1 (= 1 DS), vzor A.2 nad zbylými DS, začínáme 2. kruhovou řadou ze schématu (= v kruhové řadě máme 13-14-16 sekvencí vzoru). V řadách označených šipkou přidáme nad DS ve vzoru A.2 rovnoměrně 36-42-48 DS – viz TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ, po každém přidávání háčkujeme o 6-7-8 sekvencí vzoru A.2 více (tj. po prvním přidávání háčkujeme 19-21-24 sekvencí vzoru A.2, po dalším přidávání háčkujeme 25-28-32 sekvencí vzoru A.2). Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzoru A.2 (na výšku) máme v kruhové řadě 151-169-193 DS. Uháčkujeme ještě 1 celou sekvenci vzoru A.2 (na výšku) a přidáváme stejně jako před tím = v kruhové řadě máme 223-253-289 DS. Nyní uháčkujeme ještě 0-1-2x posledních 5 kruhových řad vzoru A.2 (bez přidávání). Nakonec uháčkujeme první 4 kruhové řady vzoru A.2 a poté práci ukončíme.

LEM PRŮKRČNÍKU:
Smetanovou přízí uháčkujeme po 1 KS do každého řo z počáteční řetízkové řady. Pak práci ukončíme.

Schéma

symbols = řo
symbols = KS do oka
symbols = KS mezi 2 DS
symbols = KS kolem řo
symbols = DS do oka
symbols = DS kolem řo
symbols = DS mezi skupinky DS
diagram
diagram
Chcete se na něco zeptat? Projděte si seznam nejčastějších otázek (FAQ).

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Komentáře / Otázky (21)

country flag Mieke Van Der Woude wrote:

In het patroon staat “ Meerder op de toer met een pijl 36-42-48 stk gelijkmatig over stk in A.2”. Helaas snap ik niet wat hier mee moet doen als ik het diagram bekijk. Kunt u mij verder helpen? Groeten, Mieke

01.04.2022 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Op die toeren meerder je het aantal aangegeven steken , gelijkmatig verspreid over de toer. Je meerdert door 2 stokjes in 1 steek te haken.

04.04.2022 - 11:46

country flag Lisen wrote:

Tusen takk for vennlig og lynraskt svar. Jeg har også et spørsmål til 3. siste og nestsiste rad i A2: I nestsiste rad sier diagrammet at det skal hekles staver i luftmasker. Men jeg ser ikke at det blir noen luftmasker å hekle dem i? Ifølge diagrammet skal det så vidt jeg forstår bare være staver i 3. siste rad i A. Så jeg valgte å sette stavene i nestsiste rad mellom stavgruppene (og det går jo bra). Men har jeg oversett / misforstått noe? Eller er symbolet feil?

18.01.2022 - 14:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisen. Du har valgt helt riktig (hekle stav mellom hver stavgruppe siden det ikke er en luftmaske å hekle om). mvh DROPS Design

25.01.2022 - 10:25

country flag Lisen wrote:

Hei Drops, tusen takk for alle deres fantastiske mønstre og ditto kundestøtte! Mitt spørsmål: Økning skal skje ved at det hekles to st i en. Men jeg skjønner ikke hvordan det skal la seg gjøre her? Bir det ikke bare å slå ekstra staver rundt lm-buene?

16.01.2022 - 10:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisen. Jo, her burde øketipset vært omformulert til at det økes ved å hekle 1 ekstra stav om luftmasken / luftmaskebuen. Eller bare å fjerne øketipset, som vi når har gjort. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh DROPS Design

18.01.2022 - 09:49

country flag Romane wrote:

Bonjour merci pour votre retour. Cependant, ce n'est toujours pas clair parce que vous dites qu'il faut crocheter soit 3 soit 4 brides dans chaque arceau. Or avec un départ de 79 brides, il n'y a que 26 arceaux. Donc si on augmente d'une bride dans chaque arceau, on n'augmente que de 26 brides au lieu de 36. Donc pour chaque arceau, il faut augmenter d'une ou de deux brides et on aura soit 4 ou 5 brides par arceau? Ca fait quand même une fameuse augmentation pour un rang.

10.06.2021 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Romane, tout à fait, dans ce cas, si vous comptez par arceau, vous aurez 1 bride de A1. + 10 fois 5 brides + 16 fois 4 brides dans chacun des arceaux de A.2 - crochetez ainsi alternativement 4 ou 5 brides autour de chacun des arceaux en les espaçant à intervalles réguliers. Bon crochet!

11.06.2021 - 07:52

country flag Romane wrote:

Bonjour, Y aurait-il moyen que vous fassiez un tutoriel vidéo pour les premiers rangs, et surtout pour le rang d'augmentation? Merci d'avance,

10.06.2021 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Romane, cette leçon explique comment répartir des augmentations, autrement dit, aux rangs indiqués par une flèche, vous crochèterez soit 3 brides dans chaque arceau (= comme dans le diagramme), soit 4 brides (= 1 augmentation). Est-ce plus facile à comprendre ainsi? Bonne continuation!

10.06.2021 - 13:24

country flag Oshrat wrote:

A1 means chain in each round? Why do we need it?

27.11.2020 - 13:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Oshrat, A.1 indicates the beginning of each round. It may start with 1 chain or 3 chains (= 1 treble stitch). Happy crocheting!

29.11.2020 - 18:46

country flag Claudia wrote:

I'm having trouble doing the first row. Am I supposed to make one chain between the six dc block ???

14.06.2020 - 01:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Claudia, to avoid a tight edge and since the foundation chain is often quite too tight, you crochet here more chains than you need sts on first round, and, on first dc round you will skip 1 chain after every 6 trebles so that you get the correct number of sts/width at the end, just skip every 7th chain as explained and check/keep your tension. Happy crocheting!

15.06.2020 - 09:24

country flag Amany wrote:

In the row of first increase, i am not getting 19 repetitions i did increase in each diuble croxhet of the row before (12 dc), i get 13 repetitions not 19 what am i doing wrong??

09.09.2019 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amany, before the first increase you should have 13 repeats in width, on first increase row you should have 6 dc in each A.2 but you have to increase evenly 36 dc (read how to increase evenly here ) = 115 dc in total, ie you have now enough stitches to work 19 repeats of A.2. Happy crocheting!

10.09.2019 - 08:47

country flag Monica wrote:

Buongiorno. Come si fa a lavorare 2 m.a. in 1 m.a. nei giri indicati dalla freccia se nel.giro prima non ci sono maglie alte? Grazie

26.06.2019 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica. Lavora a intervalli regolari 1 maglia alta in più negli archi di catenelle. Buon lavoro!

26.06.2019 - 15:14

country flag Potier wrote:

Bonjour pouvait vous me détailer le chema mieux merci

25.03.2019 - 12:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Potier, vous trouverez ici quelques indications complémentaires sur la lecture des diagrammes. Bon crochet!

25.03.2019 - 13:17