DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.70 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 27-11
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-009-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 - 24 months
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 - 92
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150-200 g, colour no 18, medium grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm for rib - or size needed to get 23 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Merino
DROPS Cotton Merino
50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 3.70 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

DECREASE TIP-1:
Work until 3 sts remain before marker and dec as follows: K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP-2:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 3 edge sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 3 edge sts in garter st: Beg 2 sts before 3 edge sts and K 2 tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
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PLAY SUIT:
Piece is worked back and forth in 2 parts, bottom up, up to after leg opening. Then work piece in the round before dividing at the waist and finishing front piece back and forth on needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 14-16-18-20 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Cotton Merino and working stocking st back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts at the end of every row 9-9-9-10 times in total in each side = 50-52-54-60 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 6-6-6-7 cm. Put piece aside and work front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 14-16-18-20 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Cotton Merino and working stocking st back and forth for 5-5-5-6 cm.
SIZE 1/3 months - 6/9 months - 12/18 months: Now cast on 6 new sts at the end of every row a total of 3 times in each side.
SIZE 24 months: Cast on 6 new sts in each side at the end of every row 2 times, then 8 new sts in each side 1 time = 50-52-54-60 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 7-7-7-8 cm.

BODY:
Slip sts from front and back piece on to same circular needle = 100-104-108-120 sts. Insert 1 marker in each side (= 50-52-54-60 sts between markers) - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking st in the round - beg of round = the side. When piece measures 2-3-5-7 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 2 cm 4 times in total = 84-88-92-104 sts. When piece measures 10-11-14-16 cm from markers (piece measures approx. 17-18-21-24 cm from cast-on edge), work an elevation at the back as follows: K as before over the first 42-44-46-52 sts, i.e. until 2nd marker (= front piece – NOTE: Do not work elevation over these sts), K until 5 sts remain before marker at beg of round, turn and P until 5 sts remain before marker in the other side, turn piece. K until 10 sts remain before marker, turn piece and P until 10 sts remain before marker in the other side, turn piece. K until 15 sts remain before marker, turn piece and P until 15 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn piece and K back to beg of round (= the side).
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and K 1 round over all sts AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 80-88-96-104 - NOTE: To avoid holes at every turn pick up loop between 2 sts and K twisted tog with next st on needle. Then work rib as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain on round and finish with P 2 and K 1. When rib measures 1½ cm, work an eyelet row as follows: K 1, * P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain on round, finish with P 2 tog, 1 YO and K 1. Work until 1 round remain before rib measures 3 cm. Work next round as follows: Work rib over the first 40-44-48-52 sts (= front piece), LOOSELY cast off the next 40-44-48-52 sts with K over K and P over P (= back piece).

FRONT PIECE:
Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work first row from RS as follows: 3 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, 34-38-42-46 sts in stocking st, 3 edge sts in GARTER ST. Continue like this back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 1-0-0-1 cm, dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every 2nd-4th-6th-6th row 7-7-6-6 times in total = 26-30-36-40 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 7-9-11-12 cm from marker (adjust so that next row is from RS), work 3 ridges back and forth over all sts. Work next row as follows from RS: K 8 and slip these sts on 1 stitch holder for shoulder strap, cast off the next 10-14-20-24 sts and K the last 8 sts (= shoulder strap).

SHOULDER STRAP:
Continue in garter st back and forth until shoulder strap measures approx. 18-24 cm (or desired length). Cast off and repeat in the other side.

ASSEMBLY:

RIB EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 50 to 58 sts along one opening for leg on circular needle size 3 mm with Cotton Merino. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 58-62-66-70 sts. Then work rib K 2/P 2 back and forth with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When edge measures 2-4 cm, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P.
Repeat along the other leg.

Sew opening between legs inside 1 edge st - -i.e. sew tog one rib edge, then sew seam between leg openings and then the other rib edge.

Fasten a button at the bottom on each shoulder strap. Use holes in eyelet row on rib to button.

TIES:
Cut 2 lengths Cotton Merino yarn of approx. 3 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Beg mid front and thread tie up and down through eyelet row on rib in waist.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 27-11

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Uschi wrote:

Hallo, warum passen das Titelbild und die technische Zeichnung nicht zusammen ? Ersteres zeigt deutlich Beine , letztere ist ein Body ohne Beine...? Danke für die Antworten Uschi

22.07.2019 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Uschi, die Zeichnung soll schematisch verdeutlichen, wie hoch die Beinöffnung ist, es ergibt sich aber dadurch kein hoch ausgeschnittener Body. Die Beine, die Sie auf dem Foto sehen, ergeben sich aus der Art, wie zugenommen wird. Zuletzt wird ja noch das Rippenmuster um die Beinöffnungen gestrickt, was in der Zeichnung nicht enthalten ist. Gutes Gelingen und viel Spaß beim Stricken!

22.07.2019 - 23:19

country flag Lisa wrote:

Fikk også som mange andre annerledes bein enn ønsket. Synes allikevel det ser bra ut! Laget ekstra lang vrangbord:) det er dessverre en veldig irriterende feil i oppskriften som jeg er veldig lei meg for at jeg ikke oppdaget før etterpå. Stusset på at det var litt liten rillekant øverst på sidene av forstykket men fulgte oppskriften. Det er jo nødt til å skulle være 8 kantmasker .. så forstykket krøller seg og ser ikke riktig ut. Men alt i alt fin bukse!:)

28.04.2018 - 08:55

country flag Christiane wrote:

Hallo meine Lieben, Ich versteh leider nicht wie die Beine an den "Trägerbody" kommen, die Hosenbeine bestehen ja nicht nur aus dem Rippenmusterrand, oder? Danke für die schöne Anleitung

02.04.2018 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, am Anfang stricken Sie Rücken und Vorderteil (siehe Skizze), dann wird es Bündchen an der beiden Beinöffnungen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.04.2018 - 09:52

country flag Caty wrote:

Se corresponde la foto del peto con el patrón en si ? es que estoy empezando a tejerlo y me da la sensación que las piernas del peto no son para nada tan largas como en la foto. Gracias

26.02.2018 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Caty. La foto corresponde al patrón. La largura de las piernas de peto puede ser engañoso debido a cómo está puesto el peto, pero en realidad son bastante cortas.

04.03.2018 - 17:41

country flag Mariana wrote:

Wie kann ich dieses Strickmuster vergrößern? Ich hätte es gern für 98/104? Liebe Grüße Mariana

22.02.2018 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mariana, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuelle Anfrage anpassen. Gerne bekommen Sie Hilfe von Ihrem DROPS Laden oder Strickforum. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.02.2018 - 09:03

country flag Therese wrote:

Bildet i oppskriften samsvarer ikke med selve oppskriften. På bildet er det shorts-ben, mens i oppskrifta blir det mer som en romper. Dette er kjedelig for de som ønsker å strikke "snekkerbuksen" som er på bildet.

22.02.2017 - 08:16

country flag Silje Finsrud wrote:

Hei. Sitter å strikker denne nydelige lekedressen nå. Men lurer på en ting, på bilde Er det shortsben på dressen, men i oppskriften er det rett fra truse til vrangbord. Har jeg misforstått noe?

29.01.2017 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Silje. Du gaar direkte til vrangbord efter du har delt op.

30.01.2017 - 16:04

country flag ALLAIN Cindy wrote:

Hoooo troop mignon !!! j'adore ! une fois mon pull fini je me lance dans la réalisation de cette combinaison !

02.09.2016 - 14:55