DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 172-38
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-571
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S/M - L - XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600 g, colour no 46, medium grey
250-250-300-300 g colour no 26, hot pink
200-200-200-250 g colour no 53, light grey
100-150-150-150 g colour no 10, bordeaux
150-200-200-200 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 mm – or size needed to get 9 tr x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.11. In diagram A.1 to A.7 work pattern as follows: Work row 1, 2, 8, 9, 10, 13 and 14 in dc, work the remaining rows in tr. Work ch in each corner in the same colour as last st before ch.
Work diagram A.8 to A.11 in tr.

COLOUR PATTERN:
When changing colour work as follows: Work last tr with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next colour and work last pull through, then work next st. When working with two colours, place strand on the colour not used over sts from previous row, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows in the round (i.e. pattern on RS and WS will be the same, there will not be any long strand seen from WS). Make sure that the unworked strands do not tighten the piece.
Replace first tr/dc with ch - READ CROCHET INFO, if last tr/dc on previous row and first tr/dc on next row are different colour work last tr/dc as follows: Work last tr/dc with first colour but wait with last pull through, switch to next colour and work last pull through, 1 sl st in ch at beg of row, then work ch (= beg of row).

CROCHET INFO:
Work piece back and forth but work piece tog at the end of row as follows:
Beg every row with dc with 1 ch (= first dc) and finish with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of row, turn piece.
Beg every row with tr with 3 ch (= first tr) and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of row, turn piece.
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PONCHO:
SQUARE 1 (multi-coloured):
Work 6 ch on hook size 8 mm with bordeaux and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work 12 dc in ch-ring – READ CROCHET INFO! Then work as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 2 dc – READ PATTERN, work the 3 ch with same colour as last st in A.1, repeat A.2 3 times in total (work the 3 ch with same colour as last st in A.2), finish with A.3 over last dc – READ COLOUR PATTERN! REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 172 dc on row.

Fasten off when A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 48 x 48 cm. Work 1 square more the same way.

SQUARE 2 (uni coloured):
Work 6 ch on hook size 8 mm with medium grey and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work 12 dc in ch-ring. Work as follows from RS: Work A.4 over the first dc, A.5 over the next 3 dc, A.6 over the next 3 dc, A.5 over the next 3 dc, finish with A.7 over the last 2 dc. When A.4 to A.7 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 144 dc on row. Fasten off. Piece measures approx. 48 cm on the widest and 32 cm on the most narrow. Work 1 square more the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew long side of the squares with one colour tog with the multi-coloured squares. Sew tog squares in outer loops of edge sts with medium grey.

EDGE AT THE TOP:
Beg mid on top of shoulder (i.e. in the middle of 2nd square). Work back and forth but work every row tog.
ROW 1: Work with medium grey (beg from WS): Work * 1 dc in first/next st, 1 ch, skip 1 st *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck, mid front and mid back work 1 dc around each of the 3 ch-spaces and 1 ch between every dc.
ROW 2 (from RS): Work 60-64-68-72 dc evenly around ch.
Then work A.8 15-16-17-18 times in total.

On 3rd row in A.8 (row with hot pink) dec 4 tr evenly = 56-60-64-68 sts. Fasten off when A.8 has been worked 1 time vertically.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM:
Beg in the middle of 2nd square (i.e. the square in one colour). Work back and forth but work every row tog. Beg from RS.

Work A.9 (= 4 sts) until 2 dc remain before ch-space mid front/back, adjust to finish with 1 whole repetition of A.9, work A.10 over the next 2 sts, work the next 2 sts in A.10 around tip, work A.11 (= 2 sts) around tip, repeat A.9 until 2 sts remain before tip in the other side of piece, adjust to finish with 1 whole repetition of A.9, work A.10 over the next 2 sts, work the next 2 sts in A.10 around the tip, work A.11 around tip, repeat A.9 the rest of row, adjust to finish after 1 whole repetition of A.9.

Work and inc as shown in A.9 to A.11. Fasten off when edge measures approx. 10-12-14-16 cm (piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72 cm in total).

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.01.2017
New chart A.2 added (missing 3 ch in first row)
Updated online: 03.02.2017
Correction: Diagram A.1, A.2 and A.3 has been updated, wrong symbol on the 3rd round.
Updated online: 24.05.2017
Correction: SQUARE 2 (uni coloured):... When A.4 to A.7 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 144 dc on row...

Diagram

symbols = st around ch-space with bordeaux
symbols = st in st with bordeaux
symbols = st around ch-space with medium grey
symbols = st in st with medium grey
symbols = st around ch-space with hot pink
symbols = st in st with hot pink
symbols = st around ch-space with light grey
symbols = st in st with light grey
symbols = st in st with off white
symbols = 3 ch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Liebes Design Team es scheint einen Unterschied im Muster im vergleich zu eurem Beispielbild zu geben. Wenn man die Mustervorlagen A1-A3 genau nach Muster häkelt entsteht in den Ecken in den Reihen 11+12 reine Bordeaux Ecken. In eurem Bild sind es aber eher gemischte Bordeaux - Weiß Ecken?

11.09.2022 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerstin, folgen Sie die Diagrammen, so haben Sie Ecken mit reinen Bordeaux; Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

12.09.2022 - 10:57

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse mais je ne comprends toujours pas; chaque carré 2 n'a qu'1 seul côté de 48cm donc il ne peut s'assembler qu'à 1 seul carré 1. Comment l'assembler au 2ème carré 1?

17.01.2022 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, vous devez voir 43 mailles le long des 2 côtés du carré-2 crocheté en suivant A.5, et 43 mailles le long des côtés du carré-1 crochetés en suivant A.2 /A.1+A.3, donc vous devez avoir la même largeur. Bon crochet!

18.01.2022 - 08:37

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment assembler les carrés 2 aux carrés 1 car les carrés 2 sont en fait des trapèzes dont 1 seul côté a la même mesure que les cotés du carré 1 .

17.01.2022 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, les deux carrés-1 doivent faire 48 x 48 cm et les deux carrés-2 doivent faire 48 x 32 cm; vous pouvez ainsi assembler entre eux les côtés qui mesurent 48 cm pour former le poncho comme sur la photo/le schéma. Bon crochet!

17.01.2022 - 16:32

country flag Karen wrote:

Die Anleitung beschreibt ein Zusammennähen der Häkelquadrate, aber das Anleitungsvideo zeigt ein Zusammenhäkeln. Bitte das richtige Video verlinken. Danke

20.10.2018 - 02:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Karen, Danke für den Hinweis, das richtige Video ist jetzt online. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

22.10.2018 - 10:29

Theresa wrote:

Is it possible to make this in a DK weight yarn. Not sure how the size would be as I don't work much with bulky yarn. Much appreciated.

11.03.2018 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Theresa, you would have to recalculate entirely the pattern since your gauge will be completely different. Please contact the store where you bought your yarn for any further individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

12.03.2018 - 09:57

country flag Corine Timmermans wrote:

Heeft u een uitgebreidere beschrijving van deze poncho want ik begrijo echt niet hoe ik het moet lezen. Andere patronen worden vaak regel na regel (toer na toer) uitgelegd en dat mij meer helpen. Met vriendelijke groet, Corine Timmermans

22.06.2017 - 19:19

Mervi Järvensivu wrote:

Hello! I’m confused. In pattern info stays: A.1 to A.7 work pattern as follows: Work row 1, 2, 8, 9, 10, 13 and 14 in sc, work the remaining rows in dc. And in SQUARE 2 (uni colored): When A.4 to A.7 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 144 dc on row. So, is the last row 14 with sc or dc in SQUARE 2? Where is the mistake?

27.04.2017 - 08:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Järvensivu, thanks for your feedback, our Designteam will check. Thanks in advance for your patience.

27.04.2017 - 09:54

country flag Mervi Järvensivu wrote:

Minkä vuoksi 2.Ruutu (yksivärinen) on maininta että työssä on lopussa 144 PYLVÄSTÄ, vaikka mallivirkkausinfossa on: Piirrosten A.1-A.7 mallivirkkaus virkataan seuraavasti: 1., 2., 8., 9., 10., 13. ja 14. krs virkataan kiintein silmukoin, muut kerrokset virkataan pylväin. ELI viimeinen krs eli krs 14 on kiinteitä silmukoita.

19.04.2017 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Olet aivan oikeassa, viimeisen kerroksen jälkeen työssä on jäljellä 144 kiinteää silmukkaa. Teemme ohjeeseen korjauksen.

17.05.2017 - 16:38

country flag Gretchen Collin wrote:

I am finding your patterns most difficult to understand. Women who have been crocheting for over 50 years tell me they will not touch your Patterns because they are so HARD to understand. While I love your product and patterns you need to find a better way to translate/brake down the instructions. I need to know how to do the edge at the top and the edge at the bottom, the instructions are too confusing! Thank you for any advice you can send my way!

11.11.2016 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Collin, for the edge at the top, you will first crochet a round with sc and ch as explain (= starting in the middle of a square 2, with medium grey) then work diagram A.8. Work the edge at the bottom starting in the middle of a square 2 and working A.9 with A.10/A.11 around tip on mid front and mid back (1 square in A.8 - A.11 = 1 tr). Happy crocheting!

14.11.2016 - 09:02

country flag Sandra wrote:

Ich habe ein Verstaendnisproblem mit dem Diagramm: sind die 3 LM immer auf der gleichen Seite (A1) ? Wenn ich die Arbeit umdrehe, habe ich dann also abwechselnd die 3LM mal am Anfang, mal am Ende? Und muss ich am anderen Ende die jeweilige fM mit einer LM ersetzen? Ist also die A1 erste Reihe 3lM - fM, fM in Bordeaux und die 2. Reihe LM - fM - fM - 3LM ? Danke!

06.11.2016 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, bei der Hinreihe häkeln Sie: A.1, A.2 x 2 und A.3, dh die 3 lM sind zwischen A.1/A.2, A.2/A.2 und A.2/A.3. Bei der Rückreihe lesen Sie dann von li nach re, dh: A.3, A.2x2, A.1, die 3 lM sind jetzt zwischen A.3/A.2, A.2/A.2, A.2/A.1. Die erste fM ist mit 1 Lm ersetzt (siehe "HÂKELINFO").

07.11.2016 - 10:44