DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Crystal Bright Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and textured pattern on yoke in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 171-52
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-104
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour no 1760, light grey purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 8 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIGHT BAND:
Work as follows from RS: K the first 2 sts on row (edge should roll a bit), P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 = 12 band sts.

LEFT BAND:
Work as follows from RS: P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 and K 2 at the edge towards mid front (edge should roll a bit) = 12 band sts.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5 – choose diagram for correct size. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 277 sts), minus bands (e.g. 24 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec to be done (e.g. 41) = 6.2. I.e. in this example K approx. every 5th and 6th st tog. Do not dec over bands.

DECREASE TIP-2:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker A and C: K 2 tog before marker (= 1 st dec).
Dec as follows after marker B and D: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes - work inc sts in stocking st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = Beg from RS, work 6 band sts as before, make 1 YO P 2 tog and work the remaining band sts as before. On next row (= WS) K the YO to make a hole.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 3, 10, 17, 24, 31, 38, 45 and 50 cm
SIZE M: 3, 10, 17, 24, 31, 38, 45 and 52 cm
Size L: 4, 11, 18, 25, 32, 39, 46 and 54 cm.
SIZE XL: 4, 11, 19, 26, 34, 41, 49 and 56 cm
Size XXL: 3, 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 58 cm
SIZE XXXL: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52 and 60 cm

KNITTING TIP-1:
Work 12 band sts in each side as explained above until finished measurements. When the pattern says e.g. K 1 row from RS or P 1 row from WS this applies to the other sts on row (continue band as before).

KNITTING TIP-2:
If you want the jacket more narrow in the neck, continue rib in A.5 to desired measurements, but to avoid a wide neck dec evenly in P sections.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 277-301-325-355-391-421 sts (incl 12 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 12 sts RIGHT BAND - see explanation above - * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 13 sts remain on needle, finish with K 1 and 12 sts LEFT BAND - see explanation above. Continue rib like this for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm – adjust so that next row is worked from RS and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern according to diagram A.1 with 12 band sts in each side as before - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row (= RS) dec 41-45-53-59-63-65 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 236-256-272-296-328-356 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
When A.1 has been worked, continue in stocking st and 12 band sts in each side as before. When piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm, insert 4 markers in piece as follows: Insert first marker after the first 34-35-36-36-38-39 sts (= marker A), second marker after the next 62-70-76-88-100-112 sts (= marker B), third marker after the next 44-46-48-48-52-54 sts (= marker C) and fourth marker after the next 62-70-76-88-100-112 sts (= marker D), = 34-35-36-36-38-39 sts remain on needle after last marker. Move the markers upwards when working.
On next row from RS, dec before marker A and C and after marker B and D – Read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts dec). Dec like this every 8th row 5-5-5-4-4-4 times in total = 216-236-252-280-312-340 sts. When piece measures 22-22-23-23-23-23 cm, inc before marker A and C and after marker B and D - READ INCREASE TIP - (= 4 sts inc). Inc like this every 6th-6th-6th-8th-8th-8th row 5-5-5-4-4-4 times in total = 236-256-272-296-328-356 sts. When piece measures 32-34-35-35-35-35 cm, work next row from WS as follows: Work the first 60-65-68-74-81-87 sts as before (= left front piece), cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts for armhole, work the next 96-106-112-124-138-150 sts as before (= back piece), cast off 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts for armhole, work the remaining 60-65-68-74-81-87 sts as before. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles bottom up, switch to a short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 46-48-50-52-56-58 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked, switch back to double pointed needles size 3 mm. K 1 round. Work next round as follows: K 1, P 2, work in stocking st until 3 sts remain on round, P 2 and K 1. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 6 cm, inc 1 st on each side of the middle 8 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc a total of 15-19-23-24-25-26 times in Size S: On every 8th round, in size M: On every 6th round, in size L: On every 5th round, in size XL: Alternately on every 4th and 5th round, in size XXL: On every 4th round and in size XXXL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round = 76-86-96-100-106-110 sts. When piece measures 43-43-42-41-39-37 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because longer yoke) cast off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts under sleeve = 66-76-84-88-92-94 sts on needle. Knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 3 mm as body where armholes were cast off (without working them first) = 348-388-416-448-484-512 sts. K 1 row from RS - READ KNITTING TIP-1 and dec AT THE SAME TIME 1-13-13-3-11-11 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP-1 = 347-375-403-445-473-501 sts. P 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows from RS: 12 band sts, work pattern according to diagram A.2 until 13 sts remain on row (choose diagram for correct size), work first st in A.2 (this st follows pattern so that pattern beg and ends the same in each side towards mid front, but do not dec in this st) and finish with 12 band sts. When A.2 has been worked, there are 301-325-349-385-409-433 sts on needle. K 1 row from RS and dec AT THE SAME TIME 24-20-16-24-20-16 sts evenly = 277-305-333-361-389-417 sts. P 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows from RS: 12 band sts, work pattern according to diagram A.3A 1 time (= 14 sts), repeat A.3B over the next 224-252-280-308-336-364 sts (= 8-9-10-11-12-13 repetitions of 28 sts), work A.3C 1 time (= 15 sts) and finish with 12 band sts. Continue pattern like this and dec as shown in diagram. When A.3 is done (follow diagram for correct size), there are 240-264-288-312-336-360 sts on needle.
Work next row as follows from RS: 12 band sts, A.4A 1 time (= 13 sts), repeat A.4B over the next 192-216-240-264-288-312 sts (= 8-9-10-11-12-13 repetitions of 24 sts), work A.4C 1 time (= 11 sts) and finish with 12 band sts. When A.4 has been worked, there are 205-225-245-265-285-305 sts on needle. K 1 row from RS and dec AT THE SAME TIME 0-8-4-12-8-16 sts evenly = 205-217-241-253-277-289 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: 12 band sts, work pattern according to diagram A.5 until 13 sts remain on row (choose diagram for correct size 15-16-18-19-21-22 repetitions of 12 sts), work first st in A.5 (this st follows pattern but do not dec in this st) and finish with 12 band sts. Continue pattern like this but on round marked with arrow in diagram switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm before continuing pattern. When A.5 has been worked, there are 115-121-133-139-151-157 sts on needle – READ KNITTING TIP-2 and cast off with K from RS. Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 10.01.2017
YOKE:...
= 205-217-241-253-277-289 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: 12 band sts, work pattern according to diagram A.5...

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = P 1 st in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc)
symbols = 1 BOBBLE: K 1 alternately in front and back of same st until there are 5 sts, turn and work 4 rows in stocking st back and forth over these 5 sts, then: * pass second st on right needle over last st worked *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 1 st remains
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 st dec)
symbols = slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog from cable needle, P 2 tog from cable needle (= 3 sts dec)
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 2 tog, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog from cable needle (= 3 sts dec)
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other two so that st is around the last two sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Anne BERNARD wrote:

Bonjour Je vois dans ce modèle qu'il y une rectification au niveau de l'empiecement .Est ce que les explications ont été rectifiées ou il faut en tenir compte? Merci d'avance

25.03.2024 - 13:07

country flag ANA ABAD wrote:

Al inicio de las mangas, cuando dice que hay que aumentar un punto a cada lado de los 8 puntos centrales BAJO LA MANGA ¿a qué se refiere? No sé si es a los 8 puntos centrales de los 46 que hay montados, o que tengo que aumentar antes y después de los 4 puntos de los bordes de la manga, ya que no estoy tejiendo en circular. Gracias

01.03.2023 - 14:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana, si no estás trabajando en circular, son los 4 pts a cada lado de los bordes de la manga (donde estaría la costura). Ten en cuenta que, si estás trabajando de ida y vuelta, tienes que trabajar 1 pt orillo a cada lado de la manga (los 4 pts a cada lado no incluyen este pt orillo).

05.03.2023 - 19:04

country flag Hillary wrote:

Have successfully knitted a few of your designs before but can\'t remember, do the measurements refer to the garment or the person? Also, how well does the alpaca yarn hold its shape? Thank you!

03.06.2022 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Hillary, measurements in the chart refer to the finished garment - read more here; read more about the yarn and its characteristics here - feel free to use our yarn converter if desired, your DROPS Store can also help you finding the best matching yarn - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

03.06.2022 - 16:04

country flag Jean wrote:

On row 12 of A3C I find that I have one stitch too many. I re-did row 11 to make sure that I had not made a mistake there. Please help. Thank you for your wonderful patterns.

01.03.2022 - 17:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jean, in row 11: P2, slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle, P2, K3, pass first st worked over the other two so that st is around the last two sts on right needle (= 1 st dec), P2, slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle, P2. Row 12: K3, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2. Happy knitting!

01.03.2022 - 18:19

country flag Fabienne Rodrigo wrote:

Bonjour! Je n'arrive pas à tomber juste au 15 è rang de À 2 en taille XXL. J'ai bien 445 mailles. Je commence par une maille seule en Jersey puis 12 mailles Jersey, 2 mailles ensemble, 12 mailles Jersey, 2 mailles ensemble mais à la fin il me reste 14 mailles au lieu de 13😭.J'ai essayé différentes combinaisons mais ça ne tombe jamais juste. Qu'est-ce que je ne fais pas bien? Merci d'avance

09.12.2021 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rodrigo, tricotez ces 445 m (en taille XL - 473 en XXL) tout du long ainsi: 12 m de bordure devant, répétez 30 fois les 14 mailles de A.2, tricotez la 1ère maille de A.2 et terminez par 12 m de bordure devant (= 12+ 30x14 + 1+12=445). Au 7ème rang, terminez par 1 m end avant la bordure devant; lorsque vous avez 1 diminution au début de A.2. Au 15ème rang, répétez 30 x (2 m ens à l'end, 12 m end) et terminez par 1 m end = 12+30x13+1+12=415 m (vous avez diminué 30 m). Est-ce que cela peut vous aider?

10.12.2021 - 08:23

country flag Agáta Manasková wrote:

Píšete že lem je z lícové strany 1 hladce a 2 krát obratce, přitom na obrázku vidím že je to opačně?

21.02.2021 - 19:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Agáto, ano, je to přesně tak - lem tvoří 1 oko hladce, 2 obrace (z lícové strany). Podíváte-li se na fotku pozorně, odpovídá úplet právě tomuto rozvržení. Hodně zdaru! Hana

21.02.2021 - 21:20

country flag Helle Kjær Høybye wrote:

I afsnittet Bærestykket står der: Næste p strikkes således fra retsiden: 12 kantm, strik mønster efter diag A.2 til der er 13 m tilbage på p (vælg diag for rigtig str), strik første m i A.2 (denne m følger mønsteret så mønsteret starter og slutter ens i hver side, men der tages ikke ind i denne m) og afslut med 12 kantm. Når A.2 er strikket færdig er der 301-325-349-385-409-433 m på p.” Skal der tages ind og hvor meget pr. omgang- og hvor på omgangen?

24.11.2020 - 12:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helle. Se på diagrammet i din størrelse. Der ser du at hver rapport av diagram A.2 starter med 14 masker og slutter med 12 masker. Uavhengig av hvilken størrelse du strikker så felles det 2 masker pr rapport av A.2. Strikker du f.eks str. S, strikkes diagram A.2 23 ganger, da er det felt 46 masker når A.2 er strikket ferdig i høyden. God Fornøyelse!

24.11.2020 - 13:44

country flag Gunilla wrote:

Hej! Jag är lite synsvag och hittar inte förklaring till zigzagmönstret i mitten av A1. Jag ser ju att det är ett hålmönster i koftan, men hur gör jag?

01.07.2019 - 10:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Just det mönstret hittar du i A.3A, A.3B och A.3C. Om du bara följer mönstret och diagrammen så kommer du att få samma mönster som på bilden. Lycka till!

01.07.2019 - 11:43

country flag Maria wrote:

En el gráfico que tiene siete cuadritos horizontales y una línea diagonal que lo atraviesa, en las explicaciones que empieza por " deslizar 2 puntos...", me gustaría saber qué significa la "x" en 2pjdX. Sé que es 2 puntos juntos derecho. ¿Qué significa la X final?

08.04.2019 - 00:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maria. Ha sido una errata. Ya esta corregido.

13.04.2019 - 20:26

Marlen wrote:

Hello, I am planning on knitting this cardigan and have one question: Given that it is knit out of alpaca and that alpaca will stretch, will this cardigan hold its shape over a long period of time? And are the measures given before or after blocking? Thank you very much and happy new year

31.12.2017 - 01:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marlen, you can first make a swatch, then wash and block your swatch and check your tension as well as the measurment in chart. For any further individual assistance you are welcome to contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

02.01.2018 - 11:03