DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Gemstone

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke, Nordic pattern, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 171-31
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-219
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour no 0501, grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 0500, light grey
50-50-50-50-100-100 colour no 7238, olive
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 8038, light olive
50-50-50-50-50-50 colour no 8906, forest
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 0100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 0612, medium brown

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work entire pattern in stocking st. See diagram for correct size.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
Dec on each side of marker in each side as follows: Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP (applies to body):
Inc on each side of marker as follows:
Beg 2 sts before marker and make 1 YO, K 4 sts (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 108-112-116-120-124-128 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with grey. Work rib (= K 2/P 2). Work 2 rounds rib with grey, then work rib in light grey. When piece measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 5 mm, K 1 round while dec 18-16-17-12-10-5 sts evenly = 90-96-99-108-114-123 sts. Then work an elevation at the back of neck as follows: Insert 1 marker mid front (between the 2 middle sts in size S-M-XL-XXL, in the middle st in size L and XXXL). Beg mid back and work an elevation at the back on circular needle size 5 mm with light grey as follows: K until 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts remain before marker at the front, turn and P until 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until 20-20-22-22-24-26 sts remain before marker at the front, turn and P until 20-20-22-22-24-26 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until 30-30-32-32-34-36 sts remain before marker, turn and P until 30-30-32-32-34-36 sts remain before marker in the other side. Turn and K until mid back. Then work according to A.1 (= 30-32-33-36-38-41= repetitions). REMEMBER KNITTING TENSION AND READ KNITTING TIP. Work and inc according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240-256-264-288-304-328 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 23-23-23-28-28-28 cm from cast on edge mid front. Continue with grey. Work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-0-4-4-0-4 sts evenly = 240-256-268-292-304-332 sts. Continue in stocking st with grey for 0-2-3-0-1-3 cm, piece now measures approx. 23-25-26-28-29-31 cm from mid front. Work next round as follows: Work the first 33-36-39-43-46-51 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 54-56-56-60-60-64 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts, work the next 66-72-78-86-92-102 sts (= front piece), slip the next 54-56-56-60-60-64 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts, work the last 33-36-39-43-46-51 sts (= half back piece).

BODY: = 144-156-172-188-204-224 sts. Insert 1 marker in each side, in the middle of the new sts that were cast on. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Then work in stocking st with grey. When piece measures 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of each marker – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec), dec every 3½ cm 3 times in total = 132-144-160-176-192-212 sts. When piece measures 17 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker - READ INCREASE TIP, inc every 5-5-5-4-4-4 cm 4-4-4-5-5-5 times in total = 148-160-176-196-212-232 sts. Continue with stocking st until piece measures 35-35-36-36-37-37 cm, K 1 round while inc 36-40-44-48-52-60 sts evenly = 184-200-220-244-264-292 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib = K 2/P 2 for 8 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVES:
Work sleeves in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles. Slip the 54-56-56-60-60-64 sts from stitch holder back on a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick up 1 st in every st cast on under sleeve = 60-62-64-68-70-74 sts. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve. Work in stocking st with grey. When piece measures 3 cm dec 1 st on each side of marker, dec every 3-2½-2½-2-2-1½ cm 10-11-12-12-13-15 times in total = 40-40-40-44-44-44 sts. Continue with stocking st until piece measures 33-32-32-31-31-30 cm, K 1 round while inc 12 sts evenly = 52-52-52-56-56-56 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Continue with rib = K 2/P 2 for 8 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

symbols = light grey
symbols = forest
symbols = medium brown
symbols = olive
symbols = off white
symbols = light olive
symbols = grey
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next round K YO twisted
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Sarah wrote:

I like the look of this particular pattern but am allergic to yarns with wool content, do you do any non-wool content yarn which I could use instead?

07.01.2023 - 17:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, you could use 2 threads of Safran or 1 thread of Paris, both 100% cotton yarns. Happy knitting!

07.01.2023 - 18:27

country flag Ans Van Dijck wrote:

Ik heb net een vraag gesteld over de omslag. Ik heb het exact hetzelfde gedaan maar dan klopt heel de stekenverhoudig niet. Ik moet dat in het patroon 5x herhalen maar dan kom ik op bijna 800 steken uit waar ik 288 steken moet hebben.

07.12.2021 - 19:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ans,

Daar waar een staand ovaaltje tussen de steken in het telpatroon staat maak je een omslag. De eerste keer dat je een omslag maakt in de telpatronen is dus op de derde naald, aan het begin van het telpatroon. Het telpatroon herhaalt zich steeds in de breedte, dus 1 omslag 3 steken, en dat steeds herhalen.

Kijk anders ook even bij vaak gestelde vragen over hoe je een telpatroon leest. Misschien helpt dat je verder.

09.12.2021 - 15:01

country flag Ans Van Dijck wrote:

Wat betekend bij het patroon 1 omslag tussen 2 steken?

07.12.2021 - 16:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ans,

Je breit dan 1 steek, maakt een omslag (dus de draad om de naald heen slaan), dan nog 1 steek breien. Er zit dan dus 1 omslag tussen 2 steken.

07.12.2021 - 16:47

country flag Sonya Noble wrote:

On the left hand side of my computer on your website only there is an icon with a shield and a check mark inside. when i go to print a pattern this icon is on the bottom of every page and obscures the print underneath. is there some way of getting ride of this icon when i am printing.

21.07.2021 - 02:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Noble, we tried to reproduce what you say but we didn't get any shield, so we are not sure to understand what you mean here; maybe try another browser/support - you are welcome to ask your DROPS store to print the pattern for you if you cannot. Happy knitting!

21.07.2021 - 08:24

country flag FRANCA NONNIS wrote:

Buongiorno,la spiegazione dice: "Proseguire seguendo il diagramma A.1 (= 30-32-33-36-38-41= ripetizioni)" Ma come è possibile ripetere il diagramma per 32 volte su 96 maglie, se non vi sono indicati aumenti? dove sbaglio?. Al termine del diagramma dovrei avere 216 maglie ma come? Grazie se vorrete rispondere.

09.12.2020 - 23:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Franca, i diagrammi si leggono dal basso verso l'alto, da destra a sinistra, per cui il diagramma A.3 inizia con 3 maglie e su 96 maglie si lavorano quindi 32 ripetizioni. Durante la lavorazione si aumentano 5 maglie per ogni ripetizione per un totale di 160 maglie: per cui 96+160=256 maglie. Buon lavoro!

10.12.2020 - 17:37

country flag Jo wrote:

The 2nd picture shows that the bottom hems are not joined, it is split like a tunic. The instructions say to increase a large number of stitches just before the rib, but do not say to split the work and work the bottom of the back and front separately. Can you confirm how the bottom should be finished please.

28.05.2020 - 00:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jo, if you like to get a split, you can divide the body and finish front and back piece separately approx. 7 cm before total length - the number of increases will have to be divided into both pieces. Happy knitting!

28.05.2020 - 09:14

Kallia wrote:

I made it in blue. It's fantastic!

03.01.2019 - 08:45

country flag Shannon wrote:

Love it! Definately on my list.

05.07.2016 - 07:50

country flag Douwelina wrote:

Ook wel leuk

27.06.2016 - 16:45

country flag Marieke wrote:

Heel mooi, ik wacht op het patroon!

27.06.2016 - 12:52