The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle | |
= slip 1 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, P 1 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 3 from cable needle | |
= knitting direction |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Comfort Chronicles |
|||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||
Knitted DROPS poncho with sleeves, vents, squares in cables and textured pattern in ”Nepal”. One-size
DROPS 172-22 |
|||||||||||||||||||
GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows. GARTER ST (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. STRIPS: Strip 1: Square 1, 2, and 3. Strip 2: Square 3, 1, and 4 (= neck dec). Strip 3: Square 2, 3, and 1. SQUARES: First square on a strip: Cast on 38 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Work square as explained. Finish with 1 row K from WS. Second square on a strip: K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Work square as explained. Finish with 1 row K from WS. Last square on a strip: K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Work square as explained. Finish with K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Bind off from WS with K over all sts. ---------------------------------------------------------- PONCHO: Work front and back piece as 2 equal parts, except square 4 which has dec for neck. For each part work 3 strips with 3 different squares. There are 4 different squares in total. Sew strips tog across. READ STRIPS and SQUARES, see chart. Work strips back and forth on circular needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE SQUARE 1: K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 12 sts evenly (do not inc the 2 outermost sts in each side) = 50 sts. P 1 row from WS. Work A.1a. Then work A.1b 2 times in total vertically, finish with A.1c. Then K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12 sts evenly (do not dec the 2 outermost sts in each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. SQUARE 2: K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 7 sts evenly (do not inc the 2 outermost sts in each side) = 45 sts. P 1 row from WS. Then work A.2a, A.2b 9 times in total in width, finish with A.2c. Repeat A.2 upwards until square measures approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' less than the finished SQUARE 1 (adjust after row from WS). Now K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 7 sts evenly (do not dec the 2 outermost sts in each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. SQUARE 3: K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 18 sts evenly (do not inc the 2 outermost sts in each side) = 56 sts. P 1 row from WS. Then work A.3a, A.3b 3 times in total in width, finish with A.3c. Continue like this and repeat A.3 upwards until square measures approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' less than the finished SQUARE 1 (adjust so that 3 rows have been worked after last cable). Now K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 18 sts evenly (do not dec the 2 outermost sts in each side) = 38 sts. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. SQUARE 4 - BACK PIECE: K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts evenly (do not inc the 2 outermost sts in each side) = 40 sts. P 1 row from WS. Then work A.4 with 2 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - in each side. Repeat A.4 in width and vertically - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm / 8'', bind off for neck as follows, beg from RS: Work the first 7 sts, bind off the next 26 sts, work the remaining 7 sts as before. NOTE: 1 edge st towards the neck in garter st. Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: On next row from neck bind off 1 st = 6 sts remain for shoulder. Continue like this until square measures approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' less than the finished SQUARE 1 (adjust so that one half or whole repetition vertically). Now K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. When bind off is done, work the other shoulder the same way. SQUARE 4 - FRONT PIECE: K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts evenly (do not inc the 2 outermost sts in each side) = 40 sts. P 1 row from WS. Then work A.4 with 2 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - in each side. Repeat A.4 in width and vertically - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18 cm / 7'' (adjust after one whole or half repetition vertically), bind off for neck as follows, beg from RS: Work the first 12 sts in pattern as before, slip the next 16 sts on a stitch holder for neck, and work the remaining 12 sts as before. Then to bind off for neck on every row from neck as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time = 6 sts remain for shoulder. Continue like this until square measures approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' less than the finished SQUARE 1 (and adjust after SQUARE 4 on back piece). Now K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. When bind off is done, work the other shoulder the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew strips tog across as shown on chart - sew in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam. Then sew the shoulder seams. NECK: Worked in the round on a short circular needle. Beg from RS with Nepal and circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 mid on top of one shoulder and pick up 96 sts (includes the 16 sts from stitch holder on front piece). P 1 round. Now work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Continue like this until neck measures 13 cm / 5''. Bind off with * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* until all sts are bind off (this is done to avoid a tight bind-off edge). Fold the neck outwards. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on a short circular needle. Cast on 106 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Nepal. Work 4 ridges. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 6 sts evenly = 112 sts. Then work A.5a over all sts (= 14 repetitions on round). When A.5a has been worked vertically, work A.5b. Then repeat A.5b vertically until piece measures 19 cm / 7½''. Bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fasten sleeve approx. 33 cm / 13'' down from shoulder, the remaining 39 cm / 15 1/4'' (= vent). Fasten the other sleeve the same way. |
|||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (21)
Nicole wrote:
Ist doch sehr anspruchsvoll. Ich entschuldige mich schon vorab fürs nerven 😬
16.03.2017 - 22:37Nicole wrote:
Außerdem hab ich das Q. 1 angefangen und was überlesen. Ich habe die Rückreihen gestrickt wie sie erscheinen. Also wäre das doppelt so lang. Ist ist mir aufgefallen das ganz oben steht dir Rückreihen werden im Diagramm auch angezeigt. Dann wären die RM aber nicht kraus sondern glatt???
16.03.2017 - 22:36DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Nicole, die Rückreihe lesen Sie von links nach rechts im Diagram, jede ungerade Reihe ist eine Hin-R (= 1., 3., 5. usw R, diese werden rechts nach links gelesen) und jede gerade Reihe ist eine Rück-R (= 2., 4., 6. usw R, die werden links nach rechts gelesen) . Viel Spaß beim stricken!
17.03.2017 - 08:44Nicole wrote:
Hallo nochmal. Das Quadrat 1 endet mit nur der Hinreihe aber sowohl oben bei "Quadrat eines Streifens" als auch "Quadrat 2" beginnen beide jeweils mit dem Hinweis "Hinreihe". Da passt doch was nicht, oder seh ich das falsch. Wo ist die Rückreihen abgeblieben. So ist es übrigens bei allen Q. Am oberen Ende zum abketten verstehe ich es ja aber mittendrin?
16.03.2017 - 22:29DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Nicole, wenn Sie das erste Quadrat eines Streifens stricken, sollen Sie mit 1 Hin-R re und 1 Rück-R re stricken, dann mit 1 Rück-R re enden, siehe "QUADRATE". Dazwischen sollen Sie das Quadrat wie beschrieben stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
17.03.2017 - 08:42Nicole wrote:
Hallo, wie werden die Randmaschen hier gestrickt? Lt. dem Video müsste ich es Kraus rechts Stricken. Also genau so wie im Diagramm angezeigt? Da zählen somit die Randmaschen wie ganz normale Maschen?
15.03.2017 - 20:42DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Nicole, die Randmaschen werden gestrickt, wie im Diagram gezeigt, dh es gibt 2 M Krausrechts auf beiden Seiten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
16.03.2017 - 08:50Christelle wrote:
Bonjour, J'aime beaucoup cette tunique mais je préférerais la réaliser avec la laine Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk, pour un rendu plus moelleux. Est ce possible ? Merci à vous,cordialement. Christelle
24.01.2017 - 09:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Christelle, Nepal et Brushed Alpaca Silk ont des propriétés différentes et le rendu sera différent - lisez en plus ici et demandez conseil à votre magasin DROPS. Bon tricot!
24.01.2017 - 10:00Cindy Brashear wrote:
I am having trouble with square 3 it says to increase the number of stitches to 56. And follow the diagram. However in A3a. There's only 12 stitches and if you repeat those stitches 3 times like it says, there are quite a few stitches leftover. Am I missing something?
26.11.2016 - 05:41DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Brashear, work these 56 sts as follows: 12 sts in A.3a, then work a total of 3 times the 11 sts in A.3b (= over the next 33 sts), and finish with the 11 sts in A.1c = 12 + 33 + 11 = 56 sts. Happy knitting!
28.11.2016 - 09:09Anita wrote:
Ang Rute 3 i denne oppskriften. Det står at vi skal øke med 18 masker slik at vi skal jobbe med totalt 56 masker. Uansett hvordan jeg vrir og vender på det får jeg ikke mønster A.3a, A.3b og A3.c til å gå opp med 56 masker?? Mvh Anita
30.10.2016 - 12:44DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anita. A.3a = 12 m, A.3b 3 gange = 11x3 = 33 og A.3c = 11 m = totalt 56 m
31.10.2016 - 15:25ROSINA wrote:
No tengo claro las instrucciones, se teje de una sola pieza o cuadro por cuadro y despues se unen?
27.10.2016 - 20:10DROPS Design answered:
Hola ROSINA, se hace una tira de varios cuadrados. Fíjate en el diagrama debajo del patrón. Luego se unen las tiras.
30.10.2016 - 11:50ROYER Sylvie wrote:
Je relève une petite erreur sur le diagramme du carré 1 de 50 m. en comptant à partir du haut à gauche, la case située à l'intersection de la 19ème colonne avec la 7ème ligne devrait contenir une croix (soit une maille endroit sur l'envers) pour une bonne symétrie.
27.09.2016 - 20:32DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Royer et merci pour votre retour, notre équipe va ré-étudier le diagramme. Bon tricot!
28.09.2016 - 09:41Veronica wrote:
Los graficos de este poncho estan solo en vuelta de ida o es ida y vuelta?
12.09.2016 - 21:42DROPS Design answered:
Hola Veronica, es de todas las filas, es decir, de ida y vuelta. Ten en cuenta para l avuelta que está vista por el lado derecho y tienes que trabajarlo por el lado contrario.
17.09.2016 - 16:01