DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Helsinki

Crochet DROPS jumper with multi-colored pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 172-35
DROPS design: Pattern no u-797
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800-900 g color no 21, medium gray
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color no 65, denim blue
50-50-100-100-100-100 g color no 44, light gray
100 g for all sizes in color no 39, dark old rose
50 g for all sizes of the following colors:
color no 73, petrol
color no 13, cerise

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.11. Diagrams show color pattern on jumper. See diagram for correct size. Work diagrams A.1, A.4, A.5 and A.8 only in size M-XL-XXXL.

CROCHET INFO:
Work piece in the round back and forth, i.e. work every row tog at the end of row.
Beg every row with dc with 3 ch (= first dc) and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of row, turn piece.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Work 2 dc with same color in 1 dc on previous round.

COLOR PATTERN:
When changing color work as follows: Replace first dc with ch 3, if last dc on previous row/round and first dc on next row/round are different color work last dc as follows: Work last dc with first color but wait with last pull through, switch to next color and work last pull through, 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of row/round, then work 3 ch (= beg of row/round). When working with two color place strand for the color not worked over sts from previous row/round, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows when working. Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row/round.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 4 dc remain before marker, work 2 dc tog, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, (marker is in the middle of these sts), work the next 2 dc tog (= 2 dc dec). Repeat at both markers.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work until 3 dc remain before marker, work 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc (marker is in the middle of these sts) and 2 dc in next dc (= 2 dc inc). Repeat at both markers.
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JUMPER:
Work piece back and forth but work piece tog at the end of row, top down.

YOKE:
Work 106-110-115-120-124-129 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with denim blue and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, work 1 dc in each of the next 1-5-3-1-5-3 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 92-96-100-104-108-112 dc. Work from mid back as follows:

Work 1st row in A.1 to A.4 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS): Work A.1 (= 2 dc) over the first 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.2 (= 4 dc) over the next 14-13-16-15-18-17 dc and inc 2-3-4-5-6-7 dc (= half back piece) – READ INCREASE TIP-1, A.3 (= 4 dc) – see in in diagram, repeat A.2 over the next 10 dc and inc 2-2-2-2-6-6 dc, A.3 over the next 4 dc (= right sleeve), repeat A.2 over the next 28-30-32-34-36-38 dc and inc 4-6-8-10-12-14 dc (= front piece), A.3 over the next 4 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 10 dc and inc 2-2-2-2-6-6 dc, A.3 over the next 4 dc (= left sleeve), repeat A.2 (= 4 dc) over the next 14-13-16-15-18-17 dc and inc 2-3-4-5-6-7 dc, finish with A.4 over the next 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc = 112-120-128-136-152-160 dc (includes inc in A.3) – READ COLOR PATTERN.

Work 2nd row in A.1 to A.4 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.4 over the first 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 32-36-40-44-48-52 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 dc, finish with A.1 over the last 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc = 120-128-136-144-160-168 sts (includes inc in A.3). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Work 5th row in A.1 to A.4 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over the first 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 dc and inc 0-2-4-4-4-4 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 dc and inc 4-4-4-4-8-8 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 32-36-40-44-48-52 dc and inc 0-4-4-4-8-8 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 12-12-12-12-16-16 dc and inc 4-4-4-4-8-8 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 16-16-20-20-24-24 dc and inc 0-2-4-4-4-4 dc, finish with A.4 over the last 0-2-0-2-0-2 dc = 152-168-180-188-216-224 dc (includes inc in A.3).

Work 6th row in A.1 to A.4 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.4 over the first 0-0-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 16-20-24-24-28-28 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 16-16-16-16-24-24 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 32-40-44-48-56-60 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 16-16-16-16-24-24 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 16-20-24-24-28-28 dc, A.1 over the last 0-0-0-2-0-2 dc = 160-176-188-196-224-232 sts (includes inc in A.3). Then work as follows in each size:

SIZE S:
The even inc is now done, continue and work A.1 to A.4 and inc as in A.3. When A.1 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 180 dc.

SIZE M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work 7th row in A.1 to A.4 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over the next 0-0-2-0-2 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 20-24-24-28-28 dc and inc 0-0-2-4-4 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 16-16-16-24-24 dc and inc 4 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 40-44-48-56-60 dc and inc 0-4-4-4-8 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 16-16-16-24-24 dc and inc 4 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 20-24-24-28-28 dc and inc 0-0-2-4-4 dc, finish with A.4 over the last 0-0-2-0-2 dc = 184-200-212-244-256 dc.

Work 8th row in A.1 to A.4 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.4 over the first 0-0-0-0-2 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 40-48-52-60-68 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 dc, A.1 over the last 0-0-0-0-2 dc = 192-208-220-252-264 sts (includes inc in A.3).

Work 9th row in A.1 to A.4 and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.1 over the next 0-0-0-0-2 dc, repeat A.2 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 dc and inc 0-0-0-0-2 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 dc and inc 4 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 40-48-52-60-68 dc and inc 0-0-4-4-4 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 20-20-20-28-28 dc and inc 4 dc, A.3, repeat A.2 over the next 20-24-28-32-32 dc and inc 0-0-0-0-2 dc, A.4 over the last 0-0-0-0-2 dc = 212-228-244-276-292 dc (includes inc in A.3).

ALL SIZES:
Piece now measures approx. 11 cm / 4½''.

Work 1st row in A.5 to A.8 as follows (= from WS):
Work A.8 (= 4 dc) over the first 0-4-0-4-0-4 dc, repeat A.6 (= 8 dc) over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 dc, repeat A.7 (= 7 dc) over the next 21 dc, A.6 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 dc, repeat A.7 over the next 21 dc, repeat A.6 over the next 32-40-48-56-64-72 dc, repeat A.7 over the next 21 dc, A.6 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 dc, repeat A.7 over the next 21 dc, repeat A.6 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 dc, A.5 (= 4 dc) over the next 0-4-0-4-0-4 dc. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in A.7. Work 5-5-7-7-9-9 rows of A.5 to A.8.

On 6th-6th-8th-8th-10th-10th row – see arrow in diagram in A.5 to A.8 work and inc evenly as follows (= from RS):
Work A.5 over the next 0-4-0-4-0-4 dc, A.6 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 dc and inc 2-2-2-2-2-4 dc, repeat A.7 over the next 30 dc, A.6 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 dc and inc 4-0-2-6-0-4 dc, A.7 over the next 30 dc, A.6 over the next 32-40-48-56-64-72 dc and inc 4-4-4-4-4-8 dc, repeat A.7 over the next 30 dc, A.6 over the next 16-24-24-24-32-32 dc and inc 4-0-2-6-0-4 dc, repeat A.7 over the next 30 dc, repeat A.6 over the next 16-16-24-24-32-32 dc and inc 2-2-2-2-2-4 dc, A.8 over the last 0-4-0-4-0-4 dc = 232-256-276-300-320-352 dc.

Work 1-2-1-2-1-2 rows more of A.5-A.8 AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 0-4-16-16-16-12 dc evenly (i.e. 7-8-9-10-11-12 rows of A.5 to A.8 have been worked in total) = 232-260-292-316-336-364 dc. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''. Then work as follows in each size:

SIZE M-XL-XXXL:
Work next row as follows - from WS:
Work A.6 over the first 37-45-55 dc (= half back piece), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, skip the next 56-68-72 dc (= left sleeve), A.6 over the next 74-90-110 dc (= front piece), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, skip the next 56-68-72 dc (= right sleeve), A.6 over the last 37-45-55 dc (= half back piece) = 164-196-240 dc.

SIZE S-L-XXL:
Work next row as follows from RS:
Work A.6 over the first 33-41-49 dc (= half back piece), skip the next 50-64-70 dc (= right sleeve), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, A.6 over the next 66-82-98 dc (= front piece), skip the next 50-64-70 dc (= left sleeve), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts, A.6 over the last 33-41-49 dc (= half back piece) = 148-180-216 dc.

ALL SIZES:
= 148-164-180-196-216-240 dc. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Repeat A.9 the entire round. Then continue with medium gray. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from marker, dec 2 dc at each marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 9-5-5-10-6-6 cm / 3½"-2"-2"-4"-2½"-2½" 2-3-3-2-3-3 times in total = 140-152-168-188-204-228 dc. When piece measures 15-17-17-19-19-21 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½"-8 1/4'', inc 2 dc at each marker – see INCREASE TIP-2. Inc like this every 3 cm / 1'' a total of 4 times = 156-168-184-204-220-244 dc. When piece measures 31-33-33-35-35-37 cm / 12¼''-13''-13''-13¾''-13¾''-14½'', inc 0-0-2-0-2-2 dc evenly = 156-168-186-204-222-246 dc. Adjust so that next row is from RS. Work A.10 (= 6 sts) in the round. When A.10 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from neck edge. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 50-56-64-68-70-72 dc. Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 8th-9th-10th-11th-12th-13th round in diagram A.8 over all sts like this (i.e. work stripes, diagram will not fit no of sts). Work 1 sc in 5th ch of the 8-8-8-8-10-10 ch work in armhole on body, 3 ch (= 1 dc), work 1 dc in each of the next 3-3-3-3-5-5 ch, work 1 dc in every dc over sleeve, work 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 58-64-72-76-80-82 dc. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Leave marker in piece, move marker thread when working. Work like this on next round: Work 1-0-0-0-0-1 dc, repeat A.9 over the next 56-64-72-76-80-80 dc (= 14-16-18-19-20-20 times in width), finish with 1-0-0-0-0-1 dc. When A.9 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with medium gray. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', dec 1 dc on each side of marker thread (= 2 dc dec). Dec like this every 3- 2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm / 1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-½"-½"-½" 9-12-14-16-16-17 times in total = 40-40-44-44-48-48 dc. When piece measures 40-40-39-39-38-38 cm / 15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work A.11 (= 2 dc) on round. Fasten off when A.11 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 70-71-72-73-74-75 cm / 27½"-28"-28½"-28 3/4"-29"-29½" from neck edge. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Worked in the round from mid back. Work ch where dc were worked (i.e. do not work over the ch skipped = 92-96-100-104-108-112 dc). Work with denim blue as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 sc in each of the first 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts, * 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 18 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts *, 1 sc in each of the next 16-18-20-22-24-26 sts, repeat from *-* 1 time, 1 sc in each of the last 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts.
ROUND 2: Work 1 sc in each of the first 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts, ** 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, * work the next 2 tr tog *, repeat from *-* 4 more times, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts **, 1 sc in each of the next 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts, repeat from **-** 1 more time, finish with 1 sc in each of the last 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts = 82-86-90-94-98-102 sts. Work 1 round with 1 sc in every st. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.02.2017
JUMPER:
....When piece measures 31-33-33-35-35-37 cm / 12¼''-13''-13''-13¾''-13¾''-14½'', inc 0-0-2-0-2-2 dc evenly = 156-168-186-204-222-246 dc.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 dc with denim blue
symbols = 2 dc in dc with denim blue
symbols = 1 dc with medium gray
symbols = 2 dc in dc with medium gray
symbols = 1 dc with dark old pink
symbols = 2 dc in dc with dark old rose
symbols = 1 dc with petrol
symbols = 2 dc in dc with petrol
symbols = 1 dc with light gray
symbols = 2 dc in dc with light gray
symbols = 1 dc with cerise
symbols = inc row - see pattern
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (100)

country flag Anna Showers wrote:

Hi I'm trying to work on the top of the sweater but as I'm working on the first 2 rows of colorwork the rows don't line up like in the picture I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

29.12.2023 - 20:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Showers, in this lesson, we explain how to read crochet diagrams, it might help you to follow the diagrams in this pattern. Happy crocheting!

02.01.2024 - 10:30

country flag Trijs Schotema wrote:

Sorry, snap het nog niet: Toer 3 en toer 4: u schrijft haak zoals hiervoor. Hiervoor was dus toer 2 met een combi van A2 en A3. Hoe haak ik dan toer 3. ( in A3 wel meerderingen dus). ( A2 en dan A3 en dit herhalen ) En dan toer 4: Daarna dus toer 4: haak ik dan toer 4 van het patroon A2 en A3

22.11.2023 - 08:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Trijs,

Toer 3 en 4 haak je dus ook in een combi van A.2 en A.3, net als toer 2. Alleen bij toer 2 maakte je extra meerderingen (dus bovenop de meerderingen die in de telpatronen zijn aangegeven), dat doe je bij toer 3 en 4 niet.

06.12.2023 - 20:09

country flag Trijs Schotema wrote:

Volg ik voor toer 3 en 4 wel het schema A2 en A3 ( toer 3 en 4).? In toer 3 van het patroon A3 staat echter wel een meerderen.

21.11.2023 - 22:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Trijs,

Ja, je haakt toer 3 en 4 gewoon zoals hiervoor, waarbij je alleen de patronen volgt en verder geen extra meerderingen maakt. In patroon A.3 haak je een aantal keren 2 stokjes in 1 steek, waardoor je inderdaad merdert.

21.11.2023 - 22:35

country flag Nelly wrote:

Hoe haak ik de 3e en 4e toer in A1 t/m A4?

05.10.2023 - 21:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nelly,

Staat inderdaad niet duidelijk aangegeven. Deze kun je gewoon zoals de voorgaande toeren breien, zonder meerderingen. Dus het aantal steken blijven dan hetzelfde.

08.10.2023 - 16:36

country flag Kate wrote:

Hi, I am making this pattern in size L. I think I’m right that I only use A2, A3, A6, A7, A9, A10, and A11? The first row of A2 is an increase down but the diagram explanation saying all 4 stitches are 1dc. When do I make the increase? Thanks!

13.09.2023 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kate, you are right for the diagrams (all diagrams are not worked in all sizes); in this lesson we explain how to increase evenly - take the number of stitches you have to work over (ex 16) and divide it by the number of sts to increase (ex 4) = 4 - you will increase by working 2 dc (US-English) in every 4th dc. Happy crocheting!

14.09.2023 - 09:49

country flag Annie wrote:

Klopt de toer 5 bij meerderingen? want aantal meerderingen kom ik niet uit met totaal aantaal steken want kwa meerderingen heb ik 24 steken voor maat m en totaal 168 steken moeten zijn maar ik komt uit met 152 steken hoe kan ik verder ?

29.06.2023 - 09:10

country flag M De Vries wrote:

Is dit patroon ook beschikbaar als breipatroon? Alvast bedankt.

16.05.2023 - 20:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dag M De Vries,

Nee, helaas is deze allen beschikbaar als haakpatronen. Maar we hebben wel veel patronen voor truien met Scandinavische patronen erin. Deze kun je via de zoekfilters vinden of via het menu. Hopelijk zit er iets bij naar je smaak.

17.05.2023 - 17:39

country flag Raeph wrote:

And then the next section says "ALL SIZES:= 148-164-180-196-216-240 dc. Insert 1 marker in the piece." Where does this marker go? at the beginning of the round marking the centre of the back? Hope you can help with both my questions. :) Raeph

02.03.2023 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Raeph, this marker will be used to measure piece from on body, this means you start decreasing when piece measures 4 cm from marker, and start increasing when piece measures 15-21 cm (see size) from this marker. Happy crocheting!

03.03.2023 - 09:07

country flag Raeph wrote:

Hi, This is my first go at this sort of pattern and I've found the instructions really clear and simple to follow right up to the split for the sleeve where it says "skip the next 50-64-70 dc (= right sleeve), work 8-8-10 ch, insert 1 marker between these sts," Which stitches? Does it mean where the chain rejoins the yoke or in the middle of the chain or somewhere in the middle of the skipped stitches to mark the middle of the sleeve?

02.03.2023 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Raeph, the markers should be inserted in the middle of the chains (ie 4-4-5 of the new stitches on each side of each marker), they will be used for the decreases then for the increases on the sides. Happy crocheting!

03.03.2023 - 09:05

country flag Elizabeth Graham wrote:

Hi, I understand rows 3 and 4 to be worked from the charts A1-A4, but to me it's not clear in what order I do these? Do I work one pattern of A1 followed by A2, then A3 and A4 and keep repeating these four charts in that order for the row? Then reverse for Row 4 (as this is the wrong side)? Thanks for help

07.02.2023 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Elizabeth, You work 1 x A.1, then (depending on the size you are working) A.2 several times, increasing stitches over this section, A.3 x 1, several repeats of A.2 while increasing, A.3 x 1, several repeats of A.2 while increasing, A.3 x 1, several repeats of A.2 while increasing, A.3 x 1, several repeats of A.2 while increasing and finally A.4 x 1. This is reversed from the wrong side. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

08.02.2023 - 06:57