DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Jacinta

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat and scarf with rib and lace pattern in ”Kid-Silk”.

DROPS 172-30
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-118
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
HAT:
Size: S /M – M/L
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
25-25 g colour no 05, heather

SCARF:
Measurements: approx. 33 x 155 cm
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 05, heather

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles from bottom up. Cast on 136-144 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with 2 strands Kid-Silk. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 4 cm, switch to circular needle size 3 mm, remove one strand, K 1 round while dec 22-24 sts evenly = 114-120 sts. Continue with 1 strand and A.1 over all sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 18-20 cm, K 1 round while dec 14-10 sts evenly = 100-110 sts. Insert 10 markers in the piece, 10-11 sts apart. then work in GARTER ST – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st before every marker on every other round, dec 8 times in total = 20-30 sts remain on round. Work all sts tog 2 by 2 = 10-15 sts. Pull yarn through the last sts and tighten tog. Fasten yarn tightly.



SCARF:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 92 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with 2 strands Kid-Silk. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above, remove one strand, then work as follows - with 1 strand Kid-Silk: 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 3 sts in garter st. When rib measures 4 cm, P 1 row from WS, continue the 3 sts i n garter st in each side, while AT THE SAME TIME dec 14 sts evenly = 78 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, A.1 over the next 72 sts, 3 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Continue like this until piece measures 150 cm, P 1 row from WS while inc 14 sts evenly = 92 sts. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 3 sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 3 sts in garter st. Work rib for 4 cm, then work 1 ridge with 2 strands. Cast off (with 2 strands).

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 172-30

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Maryse Rheaume wrote:

Est ce que je peut faire echarpe tout le long en fil double si oui quelle grosseur aiguille et combien de maille pour il y a plus de maille en partant et après on diminue

24.03.2023 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rheaume, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande/échantillon, vous pouvez ainsi tricoter cette écharpe avec 2 fils Kid-Silk mais il vous faudra adapter les explications en fonction de votre échantillon et des dimensions souhaitées - votre magasin DROPS pourra vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

27.03.2023 - 08:59

country flag Graça Vieira wrote:

Bom dia, Estou a tentar fazer o cachecol, mas não entendo o grafico. Pode explicar como fazer para ficar igual dos 2 lados como na imagem. obrigada Cumprimentos Graça Vieira

29.01.2021 - 12:19

country flag Graça Vieira wrote:

Bom dia, Estou a tentar fazer o cachecol, mas não entendo o grafico. Pode explicar como fazer para ficar igual dos 2 lados como na imagem.

29.01.2021 - 12:16

country flag Barbara wrote:

Wie stricke ich die Rückreihen von M1?

29.12.2020 - 23:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara. Das Diagramm zeigt alle Hin- und Rück-R.<> Viele Spass zum Stricken!

03.01.2021 - 16:45

country flag Csajbók Márta wrote:

Kedves Drops csapat! Nagyon megtetszett ez a sapka-sál szett, gyönyörű színe van! Ez a selyem tartalmú mohair fonal pedig biztosan nagyon finom. Szívesen megkötném, de eddig még nem találtam pontosan ezt a színt itt Debrecenben.

29.10.2018 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Márta! Köszönjük levelét. Ez a szín Magyarországon pillanatnyilag nem elérhető, de kísérje figyelemmel a Babaerka és a Kacskaringó fonaboltok választékát, a téli rendelések között bizonyára ez a szín is elérhető lesz. Az ITT található üzletek pedig ugyan külföldiek, de Magyarországra is szállítanak. Sikeres Kézimunkázást!

30.10.2018 - 03:47

country flag Christine wrote:

Pearl all? stitches in first row after ribbing or keep 3 at each edge in garter st?

08.06.2018 - 16:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, you work the WS row purling all sts but with the 3 sts in garter st at the beg and at the end of row. Happy knitting!

11.06.2018 - 08:02

country flag Roberta Ferrari wrote:

Che vuol dire distribuire le diminuzioni in modo uniforme? Le diminuzioni devono essere invisibili oppure no? grazie

24.01.2018 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Roberta. Significa che tra una diminuzione e l'altra ci deve essere sempre lo stesso numero di maglie. Per calcolare ogni quante maglie diminuire, divide il numero delle maglie p.es per il cappello, nella taglia più piccola 136, per il numero di diminuzioni da fare, in questo caso 22 = 6,2. Diminuisce ogni 6 maglie circa. Diminuisce lavorando 2 maglie insieme. Buon lavoro!

24.01.2018 - 17:07

country flag Larissa wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, wäre es möglich, dass Ihr zu den Konfektionsgrößen der Mütze bitte noch den jeweiligen Kopfumfang angebt? Vielen Dank :-)

15.01.2018 - 12:17

Susan wrote:

Thank you for the quick reply. The pattern tells me to cast on 136-144 sts with 2 strands of Kid silk and then revert to 1 strand for the main of the hat. If I follow your reply I should only use 1 strand for the whole hat? Also thank you for explaining the chart to me.

03.07.2017 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, tension is worked with only 1 strand, but beg of hat is worked with 2 strands Kid-Silk as in the written pattern, when piece measures 4 cm work only with 1 strand Kid-Silk. Happy knitting!

04.07.2017 - 09:05

Susan wrote:

I am knitting the hat and have two questions. Was I supposed to knit the tension square with one or two strands of yarn. I have never used a chart before. Please could you explain it to me in the old written form. Thank you

03.07.2017 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, hat and scarf are both worked with only 1 strand of yarn, your tension should be 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Each square/symbol represents 1 st/group of st, see diagram text. Start reading diagram from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS and every round (= hat). Happy knitting!

03.07.2017 - 10:14