DROPS / 173 / 15

Tauriel Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with domino squares, stripes and shawl collar in ”Fabel”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-351
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 200, grey
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 651, sand

NOTE: Jacket worked in one colour = 350-400-450-500-550-600 g Fabel.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 45 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

STRIPES:
* Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above, with sand. Work 1 ridge with grey. *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements. First row with new colour is always from RS.

DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
ROW 1 (= RS): K until st with marker, 1 YO, K 1 (st with marker), 1 YO, K the rest of row (= 2 sts inc).
ROW 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. inc 2 sts in the middle of the square on every row from RS.

HALF A DOMINO SQUARE LEFT:
Insert 1 marker in the first st.
ROW 1 (= RS): K 1 (st with marker), 1 YO, K the rest of row.
ROW 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. inc 1 st inside 1 st of square at beg of every row from RS.

HALF A DOMINO SQUARE RIGHT:
Insert 1 marker in the last st.
ROW 1 (= RS): K until st with marker, 1 YO, K 1 (st with marker).
ROW 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. inc 1 st inside 1 st of square at end of every row from RS.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, 1 YO (= 1 st inc), K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO (= 1 sts inc). Work YO twisted on next round.

PATTERN (applies to sleeve):
Work * 3 ridges with sand, work 1 ridge with grey *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, then work stripes as follows: Work * 1 ridge with sand, work 1 ridge with grey *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total. Now work piece in grey until finished measurements. Turn piece inside out to that WS is outwards and continue in stocking st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K 2 tog and make 1 YO.
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JACKET:
Work first 3 domino squares – see square on chart, then work 1 edge to sts on domino squares (i.e. bottom edge of jacket) with short rows - see star on chart. Edge is worked from mid front to mid back and mid front again. Finally work a yoke on jacket over domino square - se cross on chart.

BACK PIECE:
DOMINO SQUARE:
Cast on 5 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with grey. K 1 row from WS. Switch colour to sand and work DOMINO SQUARE - see explanation above, back and forth and STRIPES – see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Work Domino square and stripes until piece measures 38-42-46-50-56-62 cm at the widest = approx. 62-68-74-82-90-100 ridges, adjust so that last ridge is with sand, and approx. 64-70-76-84-92-102 sts on each side of st with marker (= approx. 129-141-153-169-185-205 sts in total on needle). Work 1 ridge with grey and inc as before (i.e. 1 st on each side of st with marker) and inc 4 sts evenly on each side of mid st on row from RS (= 10 sts inc in total on row from RS) = approx. 69-75-81-89-97-107 sts on each side of st with marker (= approx. 139-151-163-179-195-215 sts in total on needle). Slip sts on a stitch holder and work left front piece domino square.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
DOMINO SQUARE:
Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with grey. K 1 row from WS.
Switch colour to sand and work HALF DOMINO SQUARE LEFT – see explanation above, back and forth and stripes, until piece measures 19-21-23-25-28-31 cm on the widest = approx. 62-68-74-82-90-100 ridges, adjust with back piece (= approx. 65-71-77-85-93-103 sts).

Work 1 ridge with grey and inc as before (i.e. 1 st after st with marker) and inc 4 sts evenly on row from RS (= 5 sts inc in total on row from RS) = approx. 70-76-82-90-98-108 sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder and work right front piece domino square.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
DOMINO SQUARE:
Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with grey. K 1 row from WS. Switch colour to sand and work HALF DOMINO SQUARE RIGHT – see explanation above, back and forth in stripes, until piece measures 19-21-23-25-28-31 cm on the widest = approx. 62-68-74-82-90-100 ridges, adjust with back piece (= approx. 65-71-77-85-93-103 sts).

Work 1 ridge with grey and inc as before (i.e. 1 st before st with marker) and inc 4 sts evenly on row from RS (= 5 sts inc in total on row from RS) = approx. 70-76-82-90-98-108 sts.

Slip all sts from domino back on needle in sequence without working them as follows: Sts from right front piece domino square are on needle, insert 1 marker, slip sts from back piece domino square back on needle, insert 1 marker, slip sts from left front piece domino square back on needle = approx. 279-303-327-359-391-431 sts in total. Then work bottom edge from right front piece, over back piece, to left front piece as follows:

BOTTOM EDGE:
Work piece tog with sts from mid front (i.e. tip of domino on right front piece) and to the side, down to tip mid back, up to the side and down to mid front (i.e. tip of domino on left front piece). Cast on 16-16-12-12-12-12 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with grey. Work short rows and stripes as follows:

RIGHT FRONT PIECE BOTTOM EDGE:
Work tog with sts from tip mid front and out to marker in the side as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO and K rest of row (= 1 st inc).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, work next st tog with the first 2 sts from domino (= K 3 tog = 2 sts dec from domino)
Switch to sand.
ROW 3 (= RS): As 1st row.
ROW 4 (= WS): K until 5 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 5 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K until 3 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 7 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, work next st tog with the first 2 sts from domino (= K 3 tog = 2 sts dec from domino).
Switch colour to grey.
Repeat 1st to 8th row until all sts from tip of domino out to the side until marker (i.e. right front piece domino square = approx. 70-76-82-90-98-108 sts) has been worked tog with the edge.

RIGHT BACK PIECE BOTTOM EDGE:
Worked tog with sts from the side and down to tip of domino square on back piece as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 2 twisted tog, K 2 twisted tog, K the rest of row (= 1 st dec).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, work next st tog with the first 2 sts from domino (= K 3 tog = 2 sts dec from domino).
Switch to sand.
ROW 3 (= RS): As 1st row.
ROW 4 (= WS): K until 5 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 5 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K until 3 sts remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 7 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): K until 1 st remains on row, work next st tog with the first 2 sts from domino (= K 3 tog = 2 sts dec from domino)
Switch colour to grey.
Repeat 1st to 8th row down to tip mid back (= approx. 69-75-81-89-97-107 sts). NOTE: On last repetition of 8th or 2nd row slip the first 3 sts from domino back on needle. ( = K 4 sts tog = 3 sts dec).

LEFT BACK PIECE BOTTOM EDGE:
Work tog with sts from tip of domino square on back piece and out to marker in the side as right front piece bottom edge.

LEFT FRONT PIECE BOTTOM EDGE:
Worked tog with sts from the side and down to tip of domino square on front piece as right back piece bottom edge.

BACK PIECE:
Now work yoke on back piece with grey as follows:

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Pick up 64-70-76-84-92-102 sts with grey from RS on needle size 3.5 mm on one side of domino, pick up 2 sts on tip of domino, pick up 64-70-76-84-92-102 sts down the other side of domino = 130-142-154-170-186-206 sts. K 1 row from WS and inc 15-13-13-11-13-9 sts evenly on each side of tip (= 30-26-26-22-26-18 sts inc in total) = 80-84-90-96-106-112 sts on each side (= 160-168-180-192-212-224 sts in total). Then work over the first 80-84-90-96-106-112 sts (i.e. in right side of piece seen from RS) as follows:

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! WORK SHORT ROWS, SHORT RIDGES AND INC IN THE SIDE AT THE SAME TIME AS FOLLOWS:
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1 (= RS): K the first 2 sts tog, turn piece (= 1 st).
Row 2 (= WS): K back.
Row 3 (= RS): K 1, insert 1 marker, K the next 2 sts from domino tog, turn piece (= 2 sts).
Move the marker upwards when working.
Row 4 (= WS): K back.
Row 5 (= RS): K 2, K the next 2 sts tog, turn piece (= 3 sts).
Row 6 (= WS): K back.
Row 7 (= RS): K 3, K the next 2 sts tog, turn piece (= 4 sts).
Row 8 (= WS): K back.
Continue the short rows like this, i.e. work over 2 sts more on every row from RS but work them 2 K tog, i.e. 2 sts become 1 st. Continue like this until all sts up to tip of domino have been worked.
SHORT RIDGES:
Applies only to size L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
When piece measures 0-0-2-2-2-2 cm, work 0-0-1-1-1-1 short ridge (i.e. work from RS until where the last turn was, turn piece and work back = 2 rows = 1 short ridge) over the sts already worked, work short ridge every 0-0-5-4-3-2 cm 0-0-4-6-8-11 times in total.
INC IN THE SIDE:
When yoke measures 1 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st at beg of next row from RS. Inc like this every 1½-1-1- ½-½-½
cm 9-12-14-17-19-22 times in total = 10-13-15-18-20-23 sts before marker. When yoke measures 15-14-15-14-15-14 cm (measured along the side), cast off for armhole at beg of every row from RS as follows:
Cast off 3 sts a total of 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, 2 sts a total of 1-2-2-3-4-4 times and 1 st a total of 4-5-4-5-5-5 times (i.e. 1 st remains before marker).

Piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-28-31 cm measured in the side from domino and up. When the short rows have been worked, there are 40-42-45-48-53-56 sts in total on needle. Slip sts on 1 stitch holder and work left back piece.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
= 80-84-90-96-106-112 sts.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! WORK SHORT ROWS, SHORT RIDGES AND INC IN THE SIDE AT THE SAME TIME AS FOLLOWS:
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1 (= WS): Work the first 2 sts from domino, turn piece.
Row 2 (= RS): Work the 2 sts K tog (= 1 st).
Row 3 (= WS): K 1, insert 1 marker, work the next 2 sts from domino, turn piece (= 3 sts).
Move the marker upwards when working.
Row 4 (= RS): K 2 tog, K 1 (= 2 sts).
Row 5 (= WS): K 2, work the next 2 sts from domino, turn piece (= 4 sts).
Row 6 (= RS): K 2 tog, K the rest of row.
Row 7 (= WS): K, work the next 2 sts from domino, turn piece (= 4 sts).
Row 8 (= RS): K 2 tog, K the rest of row.
Continue the short rows like this, i.e. work over 2 sts more from domino on every row from WS and dec 1 st at beg of the every row from RS, i.e. 2 sts become 1 st. Continue like this until all sts up to tip of domino have been worked.
SHORT RIDGES:
Applies only to size L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
When piece measures 0-0-2-2-2-2 cm, work 0-0-1-1-1-1 short ridge (i.e. work from WS until where the last turn was, turn piece and work back = 2 rows = 1 short ridge) over the sts already worked, work short ridge every 0-0-5-4-3-2 cm 0-0-4-6-8-11 times in total.
INC IN THE SIDE:
When yoke measures 1 cm, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st at end of next row from RS. Inc like this every 1½-1-1- ½-½-½
cm 9-12-14-17-19-22 times in total = 10-13-15-18-20-23 sts before marker. When yoke measures 15-14-15-14-15-14 cm (measured along the side), cast off for armhole at beg of every row from WS as follows: Cast off 3 sts a total of 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, 2 sts a total of 1-2-2-3-4-4 times and 1 st a total of 4-5-4-5-5-5 times (i.e. 1 st remains after marker).

Piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-28-31 cm measured in the side from domino and up. When the short rows have been worked, there are 40-42-45-48-53-56 sts in total on needle.

BACK PIECE:
Slip sts from right and left back piece on to same needle = 80-84-90-96-106-112 sts. Work in garter st. When piece measures 13-11-11-9-8-5 cm from tip of domino (approx. 2 cm remain), cast off the middle 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 28-30-32-35-39-42 sts remain on shoulder. On next row from the neck dec 1 st = 27-29-31-34-38-41 sts. Work in garter st until piece measures 15-13-13-11-10-7 cm from tip of domino. Cast off. The whole piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-71-74 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Pick up 66-72-78-86-94-104 sts with grey from RS on circular needle size 3.5 mm on the side of domino. K 1 row from WS and inc 14-12-12-10-12-8 sts evenly = 80-84-90-96-106-112 sts. Cut the yarn. Then work short rows and inc as on left back piece (beg from WS): When all sts from domino have been worked, cast on 8 sts at the end of next row from WS for band = 48-50-53-56-61-64 sts (incl 8 band sts). Continue in garter st.

When piece measures 60-62-64-66-71-74 cm in total (adjust with back piece), cast off the first 27-29-31-34-38-41 sts for shoulder on next row from WS = 21-21-22-22-23-23 sts remain on needle, work the rest of row. Then work shawl collar in garter st, beg from RS as follows:
* Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 15-15-16-16-17-17 sts, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until shawl collar measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm at the shortest. Cast off.

RIGHT BAND:
Pick up approx. 104-113-117-127-140-154 sts with grey in edge sts from RS from bottom edge of jacket up along domino mid front up to where the 8 band sts were cast on (adjust no of sts to avoid a wavy band or a tight band). Work band in garter st tog with the 8 band sts as follows: Pick up 1 st in each of the 8 band sts from RS on double pointed needle size 3.5 mm, leave sts on double pointed needle and work the tog with ridges as follows: On every row from RS work last st from band tog with 1 st from the 8 band sts. When 5 ridges have been worked, dec for 5-5-5-6-6-6 BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above, evenly on next row from RS (top button hole is in the transition between band and front piece). Cast off when the 8 band sts have been worked tog with band.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Pick up 66-72-78-86-94-104 sts with grey from RS on circular needle size 3.5 mm on the side of domino. K 1 row from WS and inc 14-12-12-10-12-8 sts evenly = 80-84-90-96-106-112 sts. Then work short rows and inc as on right back piece. When all sts from domino have been worked, cast on 8 sts at the end of next row from RS for band = 48-50-53-56-61-64 sts (incl 8 band sts). Work in garter st. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-71-74 cm in total (adjust with back piece), cast off the first 27-29-31-34-38-41 sts for shoulder on next row from RS = 21-21-22-22-23-23 sts remain on needle, work the rest of row.
Then work shawl collar in garter st, beg from WS as follows: * Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 15-15-16-16-17-17 sts, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until shawl collar measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm at the shortest. Cast off.

LEFT BAND:
Pick up approx. 104-113-117-127-140-154 sts with grey in edge sts from RS from where the 8 band sts were cast on, over domino and down along the entire jacket (adjust no of sts to avoid a wavy band or a tight band). Work band in garter st tog with the 8 band sts as follows: Pick up 1 st in each of the 8 band sts from RS on double pointed needle size 3.5 mm, leave sts on double pointed needle and work the tog with ridges as follows: On every row from WS work last st from band tog with 1 st from the 8 band sts. Cast off when the 8 band sts have been worked tog with band.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 46-48-50-54-56-58 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with sand. Work PATTERN - see explanation above. When piece measures 14-12-10-8-3 cm, insert 1 marker at beg of round, inc 1 st on each side of marker – see INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 1½ cm 21-22-23-24-25-26 times in total = 88-92-96-102-106-110 sts. When piece measures 48-47-46-45-43-42 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders). Continue to work back and forth and cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side of piece as follows: Cast off 4 sts 2 times, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 56-56-56-56-55-54 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side of piece. Cast off the remaining sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Assemble with grey. Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew in sleeves with WS outwards, i.e. stocking st is turned inwards. Sew side seams down to bottom edge in outer loop of edge sts. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

= domino square
= bottom edge
= yoke
= this is on an approx. measurement, measurement depend on how many sts there are on domino
= knitting direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 173-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (58)

Christel Peters 08.11.2018 - 18:53:

Ich stricke Ärmel am liebsten von oben, das müsste bei diesem Modell doch auch möglich sein ?

DROPS Design 09.11.2018 kl. 08:00:

Liebe Frau Peters, wahrscheinlich können Sie die Ärmel von oben stricken, anstatt abketten/zunehmen müssten Sie dann die Maschen anschlagen/abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Judith 11.08.2018 - 19:12:

I have got to where you put all your stitches on the needle from the dominos ( my size 279 stitches). Do I now do the bottom section of the domino by reducing stitches? Or does the pattern do the bottom edge of the garment?

DROPS Design 13.08.2018 kl. 09:57:

Dear Judith, you slip now these 279 sts on the circular needle. Now work 16 new sts with grey and work the bottom edge as explained, ie you will work the bottom edge and at the end of some rows WS you will knit the last st from the bottom edge with the first 2/3 sts from the domino together. So that you will knit together the bottom edge to the bottom of dominos (starting from the right piece and ending with the left front piece. Happy knitting!

Lori 22.07.2018 - 03:19:

Do you have a gauge for the area that’s considered stockinette stitch on the sleeve? I’d like to do that part time machine but I’m a little uncertain as to gauge.

DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 08:51:

Dear Lori, looking for patterns worked with Delight and 23 cm in width for 10 cm, it looks like you should have 23 sts x 30 rows stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. Happy knitting!

Chantal 12.06.2018 - 07:16:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé le domino du dos en suivant les explications des rayures soit 1 aller-retour gris puis 1 aller-retour désert poudré mais l\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'effet n\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'est pas le même que sur vos photos. Il semblerait que sur vos photos, les rayures soient plus larges (plusieurs allers-retours de chaque couleur)? et sur mon domino cela est moins joli.

DROPS Design 12.06.2018 kl. 08:21:

Bonjour Chantal, pensez à bien vérifier votre tension: vous devez avoir 23 m x 45 rangs point mousse = 10 x 10 cm, ajustez la taille des aiguilles si nécessaire. Vous devriez ainsi obtenir le même effet rayé que sur le modèle avec 1 côte mousse (= 2 rangs endroit) de chaque couleur. Bon tricot!

Lori 11.06.2018 - 01:19:

Your instructions for the back are completely confusing. Then it says something about short Ridges and side increases. This is where you lose me. Are they extra ridges that are inserted every inch and a half? At what point does this begin, before or after we’ve reached the tip of the domino? How are you measuring from the bottom up?

DROPS Design 11.06.2018 kl. 09:53:

Dear Lori, in size XL you will have to work extra short ridges towards the side (piece is measured from the beg of this section): after the first 3/4" work 1 short ridge (= K 2 rows) over the sts already worked and repeat these short ridges every 1½ a total of 6 times. At the same time, continue working the short rows as before and increase at the side as explained. Happy knitting!

Salyi Maria 01.02.2018 - 02:24:

Hibat talaltam a magyar forditasban. A jobb háta darab alsó szélének első sorában kétszer (!!!) 2 szemet kötünk ossze csavart simán.

DROPS Design 11.02.2018 kl. 10:29:

Kedves Mária! Köszönjük, hogy felhívta a figyelmet a hibára, a magyar fordítás javításra került! Sikeres kézimunkázást!

Tricia B 20.12.2017 - 17:36:

I don’t understand how to knit the back piece to yolk. I’ve done the bottom piece. Is there a video or a picture demonstration. It really is not clear.

DROPS Design 21.12.2017 kl. 07:43:

Dear Tricia, for top part of back piece you first worked a triangle from each side of the domino to the tip of domino (right half back piece first then left half back piece) working always more sts from domino with short rows in the 4 larger sizes and increases on the side, then when these both pieces have been worked, you knit all sts from back to shoulders. Happy knitting!

Franca Letizia Moro 23.10.2017 - 11:34:

Vorrei sapere se è possibile e come eseguire il modello nella maniera tradizionale, con ferri normali e non circolari.

DROPS Design 23.10.2017 kl. 12:03:

Buongiorno Franca Letizia. Il modello è lavorato avanti e indietro sui ferri. Si può lavorare con ferri dritti senza modificare le istruzioni. Vengono consigliati i ferri circolari per il numero elevato di maglie che la costruzione del modello porta richiede. Per le maniche, avvierà il numero di maglie indicate aggiungendo 1 maglia da ciascun lato per la cucitura. Buon lavoro!

Margie 23.03.2017 - 16:58:

Why do I see blue in the photo but only see sand and gray on the material list?

DROPS Design 23.03.2017 kl. 17:21:

Dear Margie, this may come from some shades included in DROPS Fabel Sand. Happy knitting!

Margie 20.03.2017 - 18:43:

I would love to read everyones comments. Is there any way to translate them all to English?

DROPS Design 21.03.2017 kl. 09:00:

Dear Margie, the best way would be to use an online translator. You are also welcome to ask your question here or to contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone for any further assistance. Happy knitting!

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