DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.15CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Knitted DROPS wrist warmers with double seed st and rib ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size S - L.

DROPS 173-10
DROPS design: Pattern no z-771
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S/M - L
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50-50 g color no 9020, light pearl gray
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
25-25 g color no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 19 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 – for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 9.40 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.15CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DOUBLE SEED ST:
ROUND 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 2: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 3: * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-*.
ROUND 4: * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat 1st-4th round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in double seed st.
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LEFT WRIST WARMER:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-44 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Continue as follows: P 1 , K 2, P 1, work DOUBLE SEED ST - see explanation above - over the remaining 36-40 sts, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec evenly 4 sts on round = 36-40 st, do not dec over the first 4 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st on each side of the first 4 sts (P 1 + K 2 + P 1) for thumb (= 2 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc on each side of these 4 sts on every other round a total of 5 times = 46-50 sts. Now slip the 14 thumb sts on 1 stitch holder. Work in double seed st over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 4 new st behind thumb on next round = 36-40 sts. When piece measures 16-17 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4'', switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and continue with rib K 2/P 2. When rib has been worked for 4 cm / 1½'' (piece measures 20-21 cm / 8"-8 1/4'' in total), bind off with K over K and P over P.

THUMB:
Slip the 14 thumb sts back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. In addition pick up 2-2 sts behind thumb = 16-16 sts. Work rib K 2/P 2, AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 4 sts evenly = 20-20 sts. Continue with rib for 4 cm / 1½'', then bind off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT WRIST WARMER:
Cast on and work as left wrist warmer.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.12.2023
The pattern has been reviewed and updated. Correction increases for thumb.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Sara wrote:

Hejsan! Jag är fundersam kring hur jag stickar höger pulsvärmare. Enligt mönstret ska den stickas på exakt samma sätt, men får jag inte två vänstervantar då? Kan inte se så tydligt på fotot i vilken utsträckning mönstret är anpassat efter höger och vänster hand. Tacksam för snart svar. :)

05.12.2023 - 09:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sara, det er samme mønster både udenpå og inde i hånden, prøv din venstre på højre hånd, så kan du se at det stemmer :)

06.12.2023 - 07:51

country flag Claessens wrote:

Bonjour, la mitaine droite se tricote t'elle exactement comme la gauche ou doit on inverser pour les 4 mailles du début, c'est à dire les mettre à la fin. merci

21.11.2023 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Classens, les 2 mitaines sont identiques. Bon tricot!

22.11.2023 - 08:48

country flag Laetitia wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment tricoter à partir des augmentations. Faut il tricoter au point de blé les jetés?

11.11.2023 - 10:32

country flag Kok wrote:

I don't understand the thumb part

09.11.2023 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kok, while working the wrist warmer, you should have slipped the 14 stitches onto a stitch holder. Then you cast on 4 new stitches behind the thumb and continue with the wrist warmer. Now you work over these 4 stitches and pick up 2 of the 4 stitches cast on behind the thumb (which will help attach the newly worked thumb to the rest of the piece). Work the rib (knit 2, purl 2) over all of these stitches while increasing 4 sts evenly on the round. Now continue with the rib over the 20 stitches for 4cm and cast off. Happy knitting!

12.11.2023 - 21:17

country flag Kok wrote:

I don\'t understand the thumb part please help

09.11.2023 - 12:26

country flag Gro Bottolfsen wrote:

Mener dere strømpepinner? Strikkes rundt på settepinner står det først men det er vel strømpepinner man strikker rundt på og ikke settepinner?

09.10.2023 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gro, settpinde og strømpepinde er det samme :)

13.10.2023 - 14:13

country flag Deni wrote:

Hello,I'm knitting in size L and reached to point where I should start increasing for thumb.(my last previous round was P1,K2,P1,P,K...).I can't figure out how to proceed with increasing without disrupting the pattern.Can you assist please.

03.02.2022 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deni, this video shows how to work these fingerless gloves, and from time code 07:23 how to increase for thumb (and how to work the increase in double moss stitch), this should help you. Happy knitting!

03.02.2022 - 14:09

country flag Barbara Couser wrote:

The pattern doesn't indicate the different between the S/M and the L sizes. Could you tell me the circumference of the hand portion so I can determine the size I need please? Thank you.

28.01.2022 - 17:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, the circumference of the hand is usually standard for most gloves. For size S/M, it's usually 18-20 cm, while for size L it's 21-22cm. Happy knitting!

31.01.2022 - 00:07

country flag Yvonne Vest wrote:

Der står 50 g alpaca og 25 g kid-silk, hver med en strikkefasthed på 23-26 m. I skriver at strikkefasthed skal være 19 m , hvordan hænger det sammen? Mvh Yvonne

01.01.2022 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Yvonne. Du stickar med 1 tråd Alpaca och 1 tråd Kid-silk sammen så du får då en annan stickfasthet än om du bara hade stickat med 1 tråd. Mvh DROPS Design

03.01.2022 - 10:18

country flag Valerie wrote:

When I printed the pattern it said there were corrections. When I went to the pattern on my computer it doesn't show any corrections.. Do I assume the pattern is correct when printed??? Thanks in advance. Love the way these are looking so far!

24.01.2021 - 02:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Valerie, if you printed the pattern after the date of the correction, then the printed pattern is already updated. Happy knitting!

25.01.2021 - 09:22