DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.85€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Irish Winter Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and shawl collar in "Alpaca" and "Kid-Silk". Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 171-9
DROPS design: Pattern no z-759
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
350-350-350-450-500-500 g colour no 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-150-175-200-200 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands) = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib – or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands) = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 3 pieces in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 55.85€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8 – see diagram for correct size. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP-1 (body):
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (sleeve):
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YOs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONS:
Measure from cast-on edge mid front and sew buttons on to left band as follows:
SIZE S: 30, 38 and 46 cm
SIZE M: 33, 41 and 49 cm
SIZE L: 35, 43 and 51 cm
SIZE XL: 37, 45 and 53 cm
SIZE XXL: 39, 47 and 55 cm
SIZE XXXL: 42, 50 and 58 cm

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger.
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JACKET:
Beg by working right front piece, then work left front piece before slipping the 2 parts tog and continue down the back piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE AND SHOULDER:
Cast on 68-71-76-81-86-93 sts on with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work pattern as follows from RS: Work A.1a (= 23 sts), A.2a (= 31 sts), A.3a (= 8 sts) 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, work A.4 (= 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts), 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Repeat the first 2 rows in diagram until 12-8-12-8-12-8 rows have been worked, work the 2 remaining rows in diagram = 59-62-65-70-75-80 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Now work pattern as follows: Work A.1b (= 21 sts), A.2b (= 26 sts), A.3b (= 6 m) 1-1-2-2-2-3 times, work 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts in stocking st, 2 edge sts in garter st. When piece measures 14 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of next row from RS (marks vent) = 60-63-66-71-76-81 sts. Work the new st in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 45-47-48-49-50-52 cm, cast off 2-2-3-4-4-5 sts for armhole at beg of next row from WS = 58-61-63-67-72-76 sts. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in the side until piece measures 65-68-70-72-74-77 cm - adjust so that 6½-7-7-7½-7½-8 repetitions have been worked of A.2b vertically. I.e. in size S, XL, XXL work 6-7-7 repetitions vertically + the first 10 rows in diagram A.2b. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now continue over the shoulder as follows from RS: K the first 19 sts on row before slipping them on a stitch holder for shawl collar, continue pattern over the remaining 39-42-44-48-53-57 sts for shoulder. When piece measures 2 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of next row from WS = 40-43-45-49-54-58 sts. Slip sts on a stitch holder and work left front piece and shoulder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE AND SHOULDER:
Cast on 68-71-76-81-86-93 sts on with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Now work pattern as follows from RS: Work 2 edge sts in garter st, A.5 (= 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts), A.6a (= 8 sts) 1-1-2-2-2-3 times in width, A.2a (= 31 sts), A.7a (= 23 sts). Repeat the first 2 rows in diagram until 12-8-12-8-12-8 rows have been worked, work the 2 remaining rows in diagram = 59-62-65-70-75-80 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Now work pattern as follows:
Work 2 edge sts in garter st, work 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts in stocking st, A.6a (= 6 sts) 1-1-2-2-2-3 times in width, A.2b (= 26 sts), A.7b (= 21 sts).
When piece measures 14 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of next row from WS (marks vent) = 60-63-66-71-76-81 sts. Work the new st in garter st. When piece measures 45-47-48-49-50-52 cm, cast off 2-2-3-4-4-5 sts for armhole at beg of next row from RS = 58-61-63-67-72-76 sts. Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st in the side until piece measures 65-68-70-72-74-77 cm - adjust so that 6½-7-7-7½-7½-8 repetitions have been worked of A.2b vertically. I.e. in size S, XL, XXL work 6-7-7 repetitions vertically + the first 10 rows in diagram A.2b. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now continue over the shoulder as follows from RS: Work pattern over the first 39-42-44-48-53-57 sts as before, K over the remaining 19 sts on row, turn and K over the first 19 sts before slipping them on a stitch holder for shawl collar = 39-42-44-48-53-57 sts for shoulder. When piece measures 2 cm, cast on 1 new st at the end of next row from RS = 40-43-45-49-54-58 sts. Turn and work back.

BACK PIECE:
Now continue with pattern from RS as follows: Work the first 40-43-45-49-54-58 sts as before, then cast on 20 new sts for neck, work the 40-43-45-49-54-58 sts from right shoulder on to the same needle = 100-106-110-118-128-136 sts. Turn and work pattern but K over the middle 20 sts (from WS) and inc 4 sts evenly over these sts (inc with K 2 sts in 1 st) = 104-110-114-122-132-140 sts. On next row from RS work A.8 over the middle 30 sts. When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm, cast on 2-2-3-4-4-5 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 108-114-120-130-140-150 sts. Now work pattern as follows: 3 sts in garter st, stocking st over the next 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts, pattern as before over the next 94-94-106-106-106-118 sts, work 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts in stocking st, 3 sts in garter st. When piece measures 51-54-56-58-60-63 cm, dec 1 st at beg of the next 2 rows (= marks vent) = 106-112-118-128-138-148 sts. When 6½-7-7-7½-7½-8 repetitions of A.2b have been worked vertically (= 13-14-14-15-15-16 repetitions in total) switch to circular needle size 4,5 and work as follows: Work 2 edge sts in garter st, A.5 over the next 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts, K over K and P over P over the next 94-94-106-106-106-118 sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 P st in every section with P over diagram, A.3b, A.2b and A.6b + 1 st over the 2 sts in garter st in diagram A.3b and A.6b (= 14-14-18-18-18-22 sts) – READ INCREASE TIP-1, work A.4 over the next 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts, 2 edge st in garter st = 120-126-136-146-156-170 sts.
Continue back and forth with rib like this until 12-8-12-8-12-8 rows rib have been worked. Cast off with K over K and P over P - READ CAST-OFF TIP.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Right shawl collar:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle size 5 mm = 19 sts. Beg from WS and work as follows: K 1 row over all sts, * turn and K 10, turn and work back, K 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures 9 cm on the shortest. Cast off.
Left shawl collar:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle size 5 mm = 19 sts. Beg from RS and work as follows: * K 1 row, turn and K 10, turn and work 10 sts, turn and K over all sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures 9 cm on the shortest. Cast off.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 44-44-49-49-54-54 sts (incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side) with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 4.5 mm . P 1 row from WS. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, (K 2, P 3) until 3 sts remain, K 2, 1 edge st in garter st. When rib measures 5 cm, dec 6-4-7-7-10-8 sts evenly = 38-40-42-42-44-46 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Now work in stocking st with 1 edge sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-2. Inc like this every 4th row 15-14-13-10-6-4 times and on every other row 1-3-4-9-14-17 times = 70-74-76-80-84-88 sts. When piece measures 40-40-39-38-36-35 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off all sts. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeves to body inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st in garter st down to vent (vent = 14 cm). Repeat in the other side.
Sew the 2 cast-off edges on collar mid back. Sew collar to neck edge at the back.
Sew BUTTONS – see explanation above, on left band. Button through holes in band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 31.08.2016
BACK PIECE:... When 6½-7-7-7½-7½-8 repetitions of A.2b have been worked vertically (= 13-14-14-15-15-16 repetitions in total) switch to circular needle size 4,5 and work as follows: Work 2 edge sts in garter st, A.5 over the next 4-7-4-9-14-13 sts..

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next row K the YOs to make holes.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Nisa Baker wrote:

How come the project needs 300 gram of yarn vs ONLY 150 g ? 2 strands needed together in making the whole piece !

15.12.2023 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Nisa, DROPS Kid-Silk is very soft and lightweight, the ball has a 210 m gauge but weighs only 25 g (1 ball DROPS Alpaca weighs 50 g). Happy knitting!

17.12.2023 - 07:48

country flag Diana wrote:

Hello again, I'm sorry, but I'm having difficulties in understanding the scarf knitting method. Can you please elaborate on it in more details? The English translation seems to be different from the Hungarian part again, but that is also not clear enough.

14.12.2023 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Diana, not sure what you mean with scarf knitting method for this jacket; but feel free to ask your question in Hungarian so that our expert can help you. Thanks for your comprehension.

15.12.2023 - 08:14

country flag Diana wrote:

There are multiple mistakes in the Hungarian translation which makes the work almost impossible. Don't you have anyone to check the translation before publishing?! What I noticed so far: you have two left front pieces and none right. And in the diagram explanation huge mistake in the forth one: it supposed to be two knits but you wrote 1 knit one purl. Mistake! Same with the 7th explanation: it supposed to be one purl 2 knits, you wrote them all knits. Please correct.

07.12.2023 - 09:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Diana, thank you for, notifying us about the errors, which were corrected. Happy Knitting!

10.12.2023 - 20:49

country flag Janne Buchan wrote:

Jeg har problemer med å forstå sjal kragen i oppskrift 171-9, der står det at man skal sette av 19 masker til sjal krage på HF og VF, det forklares hvordan man skal strikke disse, så sy sammen på midten? dette blir bare 38 masker, skal de resterende fordeles på arbeidedet så syes sammen ?? Setter pris på litt hjelp

17.10.2022 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janne. Slik står det i begynnelsen av oppskriften: Det startes med å strikke høyre forstk, videre strikkes venstre forstk før de 2 delene settes sammen og det fortsettes nedover på bakstk. Altså, når du er ferdig med sjalskragen både på HF og VF, skal det nå strikkes bakstykket og det strikkes som før over de maskene du har på pinnen (venstre forstykke), legg opp 20 masker til hals og strikke de 40-43-45-49-54-58 maskene du satte på 1 tråd fra høyre skulder inn på samme pinne = 100-106-110-118-128-136 m. Nå strikkes det fra skuldrene og nedover bakstykket. mvh DROPS Design

24.10.2022 - 13:58

country flag DOLFIN wrote:

Bonjour J'ai fini mon tricot et au moment de monter les manches je me rends compte que mon emmanchure côté tricot est plus large que mes manches ? Pouvez-vous m'aider ? J'ai pourtant bien respecté les indications et le nombre de mailles . Merci pour votre réponse

15.07.2019 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dolfin, avez-vous également les bonnes mesures? Si c'est le cas, la manche doit alors passer dans l'emmanchure, épinglez-la si besoin (cf vidéo assemblage d'une manche. Bon tricot!

16.07.2019 - 08:50

country flag Therese wrote:

Ik kom niet verder dan de 1e 12nld van mijn 1e werk.Er staat dat je een patroon moet breien.Welke is dit en dat zijn maar in de 50 st.en ik heb er 76 opstaan.Wat moet ik met de rest doen.Zelfs mijn zus en moeder komen hier niet aan uit

21.03.2019 - 14:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Therese

De telpatronen (A.1, A.2 etc) kun je onderaan de beschrijving van het patroon vinden. Kies het juiste telpatroon voor jouw maat. In de beschrijving staat uitgelegd welke patronen je moet breien en in welke volgorde en evt nog kantsteken e.d. je moet breien. Op die manier kom je wel op het aantal opgezette steken uit. In de FAQ kun je hierover ook informatie vinden.

21.03.2019 - 16:33

country flag Heloise wrote:

Pourquoi faire simple si on peut compliquer ?

28.12.2018 - 08:55

country flag H. Pols wrote:

Bij het linker voorpand na de boordnaalden staat o.a.dat A6a gebreid moet worden, maar volgens mij moet dat A6b zijn.

29.01.2018 - 17:17

country flag Karin Elend wrote:

Ich möchte mir die Jacke gern in Größe 54/56 stricken. Wie errechne ich mir die richtige Größe, Maschenzahl und Maße?

16.11.2017 - 10:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Elend, am Enden der Seite finden Sie eine Maßskizze mit aller Maßen für jede Größe. Vergleichen Sie sie mit der einer ähnlichen Jacke die Sie gerne haben um die richtige Größe zu finden. Mehr lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.11.2017 - 11:46

country flag Violeta wrote:

Preciosa labor, pero tengo una duda. En la explicación del delantero derecho dice que hay que continuar la labor hasta que mida 70 cm, y ajustar a 7 repeticiones de a2.b (talla L), pero a mí me salen 8 repeticiones para que mida 70 cm. No sé si estoy haciendo algo mal o no he entendido las explicaciones. Me da miedo de que quede demasiado largo. Muchas gracias

11.07.2017 - 11:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Violeta. El número de repeticiones son aproximadas (depende de la tensión del tejido). Tienes que guiarte por las medidas en cm.

14.07.2017 - 13:59