DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Magic Web

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern on yoke worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 171-10
DROPS design: Pattern no u-788
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
500-550-600-700-750-800 g color no 64, gray purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16"+24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16"+24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - for edge in garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size).

INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 74 sts) and divide by no of inc to be done (e.g. 14) = 5.3. I.e. in this example inc after approx. every 5th st. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on a circular needle from top down. Sleeves are worked in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 74-76-80-80-86-86 sts on a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round while inc 14-23-30-30-35-35 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 88-99-110-110-121-121 sts.
For better shape work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Insert 1 marker mid back. K 11-12-13-13-15-15 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 22-24-26-26-30-30 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 33-36-39-39-45-45 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 44-48-52-52-60-60 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and K 55-60-65-65-75-75 sts, turn, tighten yarn and P 66-72-78-78-90-90 sts back. Turn and K until mid back.
Work next round as follows: * Work A.1 (= 2 sts), work A.2 (= 9 sts – choose diagram for correct size) *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 8-9-10-10-11-11 times in total). Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in A.2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.2 has been worked, there are 272-306-340-360-385-407 sts on needle. Work 1 round with K over K and P over P and inc AT THE SAME TIME 8-6-2-8-7-9 sts evenly = 280-312-342-368-392-416 sts (inc in P sections). Piece measures now approx. 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4" measured mid front (includes neck edge). Work next round as follows: Work 40-44-48-53-58-63 sts in stockinette st (= ½ back piece), slip the next 60-68-75-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts (= in the side under sleeve), work 80-88-96-106-116-126 sts in stockinette st (= front piece), slip the next 60-68-75-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 40-44-48-53-58-63 sts in stockinette st (= ½ back piece).
Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 176-192-212-232-256-280 sts. Insert 1 marker in each side = 88-96-106-116-128-140 sts between markers on front and back piece - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stockinette st in the round. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Dec like this every 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1"-1" a total of 4-4-4-4-3-3 times in each side = 160-176-196-216-244-268 sts. When piece measures 15 cm / 6'' (jumper measures approx. 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm / 15 1/4"-16"-17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4" from shoulder), inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts inc). Inc like this every 3½ cm / 1 1/4'' 4-4-4-4-3-3 times in total in each side = 176-192-212-232-256-280 sts. When piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' (jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from shoulder), switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 3 ridges, switch back to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and bind off with K (this is done to avoid a tight bind-off edge). Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle top down, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Slip the 60-68-75-78-80-82 sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and pick in addition 1 st in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts cast on under sleeve on body = 68-76-85-88-92-96 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve (= beg of round) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stockinette st in the round. When piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm / 1"-1"-1"-1"-3/4"-3/4", dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm / 7/8"-3/4"-½"-½"-½"-½" 14-17-20-21-22-23 times in total = 40-42-45-46-48-50 sts. When sleeve measures 42-41-39-38-37-36 cm / 16½"-16"-15 1/4"-15"-14½"-14 1/4" (or desired length), switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. Switch back to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and bind off with K. Sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-40-39-38 cm / 17 1/4"-17"-16"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15" from marker. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO on next round (= hole)
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO twisted on next round (= not hole)
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Sara wrote:

Buongiorno vorrei far presente allo staff di drops design che lo sprone delle maniche di quasi tutti i maglioni invernali è enorme e le maniche nella parte superiore cioè la parte dello sprone fanno difetto dovreste diminuire i punti perché risultano eccessivi anche nella taglia S, in quanto le misure riportate sui modelli non corrispondono utilizzando filati simili. Grazie

31.12.2021 - 19:40

country flag Sara wrote:

Buongiorno sto lavorando questo modello nella taglia M, però mi sono accorta che nello schema A2 , precisamente al ferro n 47 , c è un solo aumento sul lato sinistro ma non c'è simmetricamente sul lato destro , è un errore? Bisogna fare solo un aumento sul lato sinistro e sul destro no? Non capisco...potreste spiegarmi . Grazie

23.12.2021 - 12:45

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sara, abbiamo inoltrato la sua richiesta al settore design: se ci dovessero essere delle correzioni le troverà direttamente online. Buon lavoro!

27.12.2021 - 17:55

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Dzień dobry, w opisie karczku pojawia się odniesienie do schematu A1 (=2oczka): * A.1 (= 2 o.). Mam pytanie , jakie to oczka, bo nie ma schematu do tego fragmentu?

25.07.2021 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko, schemat A.1 znajduje się po prawej stronie schematycznego rysunku swetra (z wymiarami), pod opisem. Pozdrawiamy!

27.07.2021 - 15:58

country flag Debora wrote:

Buonasera, nella spiegazione dell'alzata mi pare ci sia un errore perché se il primo ferro accorciato è a diritto, girando il lavoro si lavora a rovescio e non a diritto come c'è scritto, quindi tutta la sequenza viene sballata...e siccome a campione uguale a me viene uno scollo molto stretto per cui non mi passa la testa, come posso fare per ovviare al problema? Grazie mille e buon lavoro

23.03.2020 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Debora, grazie per la segnalazione, abbiamo corretto il testo. Buon lavoro!

23.03.2020 - 21:15

country flag Sandra wrote:

Hallo mir kommt die Anzahl der Maschen bei Aufnahme am Hals sehr wenig vor, wird das nicht viel zu eng???

19.01.2020 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandra, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann bekommen Sie die gleichen Maßen wie in der Maßskizze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.01.2020 - 09:45

country flag Irina wrote:

Sehr schöner Pullover, super Anleitung. Habe viel Freude beim Tragen, vielen herzlichen Dank!

25.01.2019 - 22:06

country flag Gro wrote:

Hei! Jeg strikker i XL. Men jeg får ikke A2 til å stemme. 110 masker er på pinnen. Diagrammet/mønsteret er 9 masker. Antall ganger det skal strikkes er totalt 10. Hva gjør jeg med maskene som er til overs?

26.07.2017 - 11:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gro. Du skal også strikke A.1 (=2 masker) før A.2 (=9 masker). A. 1 og A.2 = 11 masker, som strikkes 10 ganger = 110 masker, som du har på pinnen. God Fornøyelse!

07.08.2017 - 12:31

Amanda wrote:

Hi - do you have a video for "P YO twisted on next round (= not hole)" as I cannot figure out how to do this! Thanks so much. Amanda

20.12.2016 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amanda, the video below shows how to increase with a YO and on time code 00:50 how to P the YO twisted on next row (= into back loop of YO instead of front loop). Happy knitting!

21.12.2016 - 09:19

country flag Ellinor wrote:

Kan det stämma att ärmen ska vara kortare ju större storlek man stickar? Storlek XXXL ska ha 36 cm lång ärm och storlek S ska ha 42 cm lång ärm?

23.11.2016 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ellinor. Ja, det er helt korrekt, da baerestykket er breddere i de store str.

24.11.2016 - 11:54

Irena P wrote:

Hi, I have several questions : 1. I did not fully get the elevation part. Do u have a video or may be an illustration? 2. When do I join the stitches? Thank u

15.10.2016 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Irina, when working the elevation, you will work short rows over sts on back of neck so that neckline on back piece will be higher than neckline on front piece. See technique in video below. Happy knitting!

17.10.2016 - 11:31