DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.55€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Winter Skies

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern, stripes and shawl collar, worked top down in 2 strands "Alpaca". Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 173-36
DROPS design: Pattern no z-770
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 g colour no 100, off white
300-350-350-400 g colour no 9020, light pearl grey
200-200-200-250 g colour no 501, light grey
150-150-150-200 g, colour no 517, medium grey
NOTE: Garment worked in one colour = 700-750-850-900 g with 2 strands Alpaca.

DROPS HOOK SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 12 tr x 7 rows with 2 strands Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm, or 1 repetition of A.2 = width 8 cm and the last 4 rows in A.3 = approx. 4.5 cm vertically.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON Arched (white) NO 540 – 2 pieces in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.55€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 1 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5 – see diagram for correct size.

STRIPES:
Work all stripes with 2 strands. Work 3 repetitions (1 repetition vertically = the last 4 rows in diagram) vertically with 1st-5th stripe, then work 6th stripe until finished measurements.
Stripe 1: 1 strand off white + 1 strand light pearl grey.
Stripe 2: 2 strands light pearl grey.
Stripe 3: 1 strand light pearl grey + 1 strand light grey.
Stripe 4: 2 strands light grey.
Stripe 5: 1 strand light grey + 1 strand medium grey.
Stripe 6: 2 strands medium grey.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band on a row with tr. Beg from WS and work as follows: Work the first 5 tr on band, work 1 ch, skip 1 st and continue with tr the rest of band.
Work for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S/M: 23 and 30 cm.
SIZE L/XL: 24 and 31 cm.
SIZE XXL: 25 and 32 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 26 and 33 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked top down in parts and sewn tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Work 48-53-59-63 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl grey (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm. Cut the yarn and work left shoulder.
Work 50-55-61-65 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl grey (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm. Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 tr in each of the next 4-2-1-5 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-7-8-8 times in total = 42-46-51-55 tr. Continue with first row in A.5 (= 18 ch), work 1 tr 1st ch on ch-row (= right shoulder), work 1 tr in each of the next 5-3-2-6 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-7-8-8 times in total = 42-46-51-55 tr for each shoulder. Turn and work STRIPES - see explanation above, and PATTERN from RS as follows - beg on 2nd row in diagram: Work A.1a – see diagram for correct size (= 1 st), A.2 (= 5 tr) 1-0-1-0 times in width, A.3 (= 9 tr) over the next 36-45-45-54 tr, A.5 over the 18 ch for neck, A.3 over the next 36-45-45-54 tr, A.4 1-0-1-0 times, A.1a. Work 1 row in pattern (= 3rd row). Continue pattern like this but now work from 4th row in diagram A.3 over A.5 (i.e. work 10-12-12-14 repetitions of A.3 in total in width). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When diagram A.1 to A.4 have been worked, repeat the last 4 rows in diagram vertically. When 2nd stripe has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 28 cm. Cut the yarn.
Now continue from 3rd stripe and skip repetitions in each side for sleeves in the different sizes as explained below - beg from WS:

S/M - XXL:
NOTE: Start working from 3rd row in diagram.
Skip A.1a, A.4, 1 repetition A.3 and first ch-space in next repetition of A.3 for sleeve. Beg in next ch-space (= 3 ch) and work A.1a, work A.2, A.3 6-8 times in total in width, A.2, A.1a. NOTE: The same pattern now remain at the end of row that were skipped at beg of row.

L/XL - XXXL:
NOTE: Start working from 3rd row in diagram.
Skip A.1a, 1 repetition of A.3 and skip the next 2 ch-spaces in next repetition of A.3. Beg in next ch-space (= last ch-space in A.3) and work A.1a, work A.3 8-10 times in total in width, work A.1a in next ch-space. NOTE: The same pattern now remain at the end of row that were skipped at beg of row.



Continue like this until 5th stripe has been worked vertically. Work 6th stripe until piece measures 82-84-87-89 cm from shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE/SLEEVE:
Work collar as follows:
Work 21 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl grey on hook size 6 mm. Turn and work as follows: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook (= 2 dc), skip 1 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total = 18 dc. Turn piece and insert a marker at beg of row = RS. Now work short rows as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 1 tr in every dc.
ROW 2: Work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 htr the next 2 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 2 tr, 1 sl st in the next 2 tr, turn piece.
ROW 3: Work 1 sl st in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 htr in each of the next 2 sts, 1 tr in each of the last 2 sts. Turn piece
ROW 4: Work 1 tr in every st. Turn piece
ROW 5: Work 1 tr in every tr.
Continue like this and repeat 2nd-5th row until the shortest side on collar measures 8 cm, adjust so that last row is worked from WS. Cut the yarn.

Now work shoulder as follows: Work 50-55-61-65 loose ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl grey (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm. Turn and work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 4-2-1-5 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-7-8-8 times in total = 42-46-51-55 tr. Turn piece and work pattern from RS - beg on 2nd row in diagram: NOTE: Work stripes as on back piece. Work A.1a, A.2 1-0-1-0 times in total, A.3 over the next 36-45-45-54 tr. Continue pattern over the 18 sts from collar as follows from RS: A.4, A.1b over the remaining 13 tr (= band). When diagram A.1 to A.4 have been worked, repeat the last 4 rows vertically. When 2nd stripe has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 28 cm. Do not cut the yarn. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! Now continue from 3rd stripe and skip repetitions in the side for sleeve in the different sizes as explained below as follows - beg from WS:

S/M - XXL:
NOTE: Work from 3rd row in diagram.
Work A.1b over band as before (= 13 sts), work A.4, A.3 2-3 times in total in width, A.2 and finish with A.1a in next ch-space (= 3 ch). Turn piece and continue piece back and forth like this.

L/XL - XXXL:
NOTE: Work from 3rd row in diagram.
Work A.1b over band as before (= 13 sts), work A.4, A.3 3-4 times in total in width and finish with A.1a in next ch-space.

Continue like this until 5th stripe has been worked vertically. Now continue with 6th stripe until piece measures 82-84-87-89 cm from shoulder, adjust according to back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE/SLEEVE:
Work shoulder as follows:
Work 50-55-61-65 loose ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl grey (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm. Turn and work as follows:
Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 4-2-1-5 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-7-8-8 times in total = 42-46-51-55 tr. Cut the yarn and work collar as follows:

Work 21 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl grey on hook size 6 mm. Turn and work as follows: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook (= 2 dc), skip 1 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total = 18 dc. Insert a marker on last st worked = RS. Turn piece. Work short rows, beg from WS as follows:
ROW 1 (= WS): Work 1 tr in every dc, turn piece.
ROW 2: Work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, 1 htr in next tr, 1 dc in each of the next 2 tr, 1 sl st in next tr, turn piece.
ROW 3: Work 1 sl st in first st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 htr in next st, 1 tr in each of the last 2 sts, turn piece.
ROW 4: Work 1 tr in every st, turn piece.
ROW 5: Work 1 tr in every tr, turn piece.
Continue like this and repeat 2nd-5th row until the shortest side on collar measures 8 cm, adjust so that last row is worked from WS. Do not cut the yarn.

Turn piece and work pattern from RS - beg on 2nd row in diagram:
Work A.1b over the first 13 sts, A.2, work A.3 over the first 36-45-45-54 tr on left shoulder, A.4 1-0-1-0 times in total, A.1a.
Continue like this back and forth. When diagram A.1 to A.4 have been worked, repeat the last 4 rows vertically. When 2nd stripe has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 28 cm. Cut the yarn. Now continue from 3rd stripe and skip repetitions in the side for sleeve in the different sizes as explained below as follows - beg from WS:

S/M - XXL:
NOTE: Work from 3rd row in diagram.
Skip A.1a, A.4, 1 repetition A.3 and first ch-space in next repetition of A.3 for sleeve. Beg in next ch-space (= 3 ch) and work A.1a, A.2, A.3 2-3 times in total in width, A.2, work A.1a in the remaining 13 sts.

L/XL - XXXL:
NOTE: Work from 3rd row in diagram.
Skip A.1a, 1 repetition of A.3 and skip the next 2 ch-spaces in next repetition of A.3. Beg in next ch-space (= last ch-space in next repetition A.3) and work A.1a, continue with A.3 3-4 times in total in width, A.2, A.1b the remaining 13 sts.

Continue like this until 5th stripe has been worked vertically. Now continue with 6th stripe until piece measures 82-84-87-89 cm from shoulder, adjust according to back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Place shoulder on back piece and front piece towards each other and sew shoulder seams with 1 strand off white by sewing one and one st tog.
Sew underarm seams and side seams in one with 1 strand light grey, sew outer loops of edge sts in one and one st until 26 cm remain for vents at the bottom in each side.
Crochet an edge around the sleeves as follows: Beg mid under sleeve and work with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl grey (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm as follows: * Work 1 dc, 3 ch, skip 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire sleeve and finish with 1 sl st in first dc on round. Work the same way around the other sleeve.
Sew collar tog mid back with off white, then sew collar to neck edge. Sew the buttons on to left band.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc in st
symbols = 1 dc around ch-space
symbols = 1 tr in st
symbols = Work 2 tr tog as follows: Work 1 tr in next tr but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more in same tr, but on last pull through, pull through all YOs on hook.
symbols = Work 2 tr tog as follows: Work 1 tr around the middle ch in tr-group but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr more around same ch, but on last pull through, pull through all YOs on hook.
symbols = 1 tr around ch-space
symbols = Work a tr-group around ch-space as follows: Work * 1 tr, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 2 more times around same ch-space, 1 tr around same ch-space.
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Annette wrote:

Non riesco a capire l'inizio: "Spalla destra: Con l’uncinetto n° 6 e 1 capo del colore panna/ecrù + 1 capo del colore grigio chiaro perla (= 2 capi) avviare 48-53-59-63 cat. Tagliare il filo e lavorare la spalla sinistra." perchè devo avviare le catenella per la spalla destra e spezzare il filo, e poi mentre si lavora la spalla sinistra che centra la destra?

05.10.2022 - 19:05

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Annette, questo modello ha una costruzione particolare, si avviano le maglie della spalla destra e poi si continua sulla sinistra. Buon lavoro!

05.10.2022 - 23:19

country flag Andrea wrote:

Gracias por contestar voy a intentar

19.02.2022 - 23:26

country flag Andrea wrote:

HOLA!!! Ahora me quedé en esta parte después de la espalda talle M. Agradecería que me expliques un poco más esta parte. Saltar para la manga A.1a, A.4, 1 repetición de A.3 y el primer arco de la sig repetición de A.3. Comenzar en el sig arco (= 3 p.de cad) y trabajar A.1a, A.2, A.3 un total de 6-8 vcs en el ancho, A.2, A.1a. ATENCIÓN: Al final de la fila queda sin trabajar el mismo patrón que hemos saltado al inicio de la fila. GRACIAS

16.02.2022 - 13:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Andrea, para la sisa, a ganchillo, en lugar de cerrar puntos como al trabajar con dos agujas, se dejan puntos o p.de cad sin trabajar; se saltan. De este modo, dejamos un espacio para la sisas. Se salta o no trabaja las instrucciones de la primera frase y se comienza en el 2º arco de la 2ª repetición de A.3. Después se trabaja como se explica. No se trabaja hasta el final de la fila, solo hasta el final de la explicación. Por lo tanto, al final de la fila va a quedar unos puntos sin trabajar. Estos puntos deberían coincidir con los saltados al inicio de la fila y forman la segunda sisa.

19.02.2022 - 18:49

country flag Andrea wrote:

Gracias por responder ahora me queda más claro. Saludos Andrea

15.02.2022 - 03:06

country flag Andrea wrote:

Olvide decir que estoy usando un hilo multicolor. es decir un solo hilo por eso no sigo lo de las franjas. Andrea

08.02.2022 - 01:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Andrea, puedes ver la respuesta debajo.

13.02.2022 - 19:32

country flag Andrea wrote:

Gracias por contestar anteriormente a mi duda. Ahora surgió otra sigo en la espalda talla M y es la de las 12 repeticiones que no comprendo (Continuar con el patrón de la misma manera pero ahora trabajar desde la 4ª fila desl diagrama A.3 sobre A.5 (es decir, trabajar 10-12-12-14 repeticiones de A.3 en total en el ancho). Además después de las 18 cadenas del cuello, éstas se unen con las cadenas del hombro derecho? Perdón pero está medio complicado. Saludos Andrea

08.02.2022 - 00:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Andrea, como en esta fila solo se trabaja A.3, se trabajan los primeros A.3 como antes (5 repeticiones sobre 45 puntos), 2 repeticiones de A.3 sobre los puntos de A.5 de la fila anterior (18 puntos centrales) y trabajar otras 5 repeticiones de A.3 sobre los siguientes 45 puntos. Por lo tanto, trabajar 12 repeticiones de A.3 en la vuelta. Sobre las cadenas del cuello, sí, se unen a los puntos del hombro derecho.

13.02.2022 - 19:32

country flag Andrea Wetney wrote:

Hola me encantan sus diseños pero en este en particular tuve dificultades en la explicación y por lo que veo no soy la única. Quedé en la parte de la espalda para talla M donde dice = 9 puntos altos sobre los 45 p. a. qué se supone que haga??\r\nAndrea

31.01.2022 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Andrea, tienes que trabajar una repetición de 9 puntos altos, que se repite a lo largo de los 45 p.a (es decir, 5 veces).

31.01.2022 - 23:42

country flag Alice wrote:

Non riesco a capire le spiegazioni. Cosa vuol dire "saltare per la manica"? Non dovrebbe esserci un aumento o diminuzione per le maniche? Perché nel dietro non mette dietro/maniche se sono lavorate insieme? Grazie

29.12.2021 - 00:32

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Alice, dove indica "saltare", semplicemente non deve lavorare su quelle maglie. Buon lavoro!

29.12.2021 - 22:18

country flag Inga wrote:

Hei Skal venstre og høyre krage hekles forskjellig? Det er forskjell i oppskriften med tanke på halvstaver og kjedemasker i de forkortede rundene.

11.08.2020 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inga, kraverne er ens men spejlvendte og det skal der være taget højde for i opskriften. God fornøjelse!

20.08.2020 - 13:46

country flag Sandra wrote:

I must be missing something as I can’t find how many chain to start with, I have gone through a few times with no success, hope you can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance

11.08.2020 - 12:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sandra, you will find the number of chains in each size to cast on under: BACK PIECE: Right shoulder: Work 48-53-59-63 ch with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light pearl grey (= 2 strands) on hook size 6 mm. Cut the yarn and work left shoulder... Happy crocheting!

11.08.2020 - 13:38