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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Winter is Coming |
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Knitted DROPS vest with vents in the side and round neck in 1 thread Cloud, 1 thread Wish or 2 threads Air. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 173-47 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. DECREASE TIP: To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 75 sts), minus edge sts (e.g. 12 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec to be done (e.g. 13) = 4.8. I.e. in this example work approx. every 4th and 5th st tog (and do not dec of edge sts). BUTTONHOLES: Cast off for 2 buttonholes in each side on front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off third and fourth st from edge and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts. Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures 16 and 26 cm in all sizes (or desired length). ---------------------------------------------------------- VEST: Worked back and forth on circular needle in 2 parts and sewn tog on the shoulder. BACK PIECE: Cast on 75-81-87-93-99-105 sts (incl 6 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with 1 thread Cloud, 1 thread Wish or 2 threads Air. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 6 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from *-* until 9 sts remain on needle and finish with P 3 and 6 edge sts in garter st. Continue rib like this until piece measures 21 cm. On next row from WS, switch to circular needle size 8 mm, at the same time dec 13-15-17-17-17-15 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP = 62-66-70-76-82-90 sts. Work in stocking st with 6 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm, slip the outermost sts at beg of every row in each side on 1 stitch holder for diagonal shoulder as follows (NOTE: To avoid cutting the yarn being used, work the sts before slipping them on the stitch holder): Slip 7-8-8-9-10-11 sts 2-3-2-2-3-2 times in total and 8-0-9-10-0-12 sts 1-0-1-1-0-1 time on stitch holder in each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm, cast off the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on next row from neck. When all sts have been dec/put on a stitch holder, there are 22-24-25-28-30-34 sts on stitch holder for shoulder and back piece measures approx. 67-69-71-73-75-77 cm from the top of shoulder and down. Slip sts from stitch holder on circular needle size 7 mm. K 1 row from WS (to avoid holes in transitions where sts were slipped on stitch holder put loop between 2 sts on needle and K twisted tog with next st on needle). Then LOOSELY cast off with K from RS. Repeat on the other shoulder. FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work as back piece, but when rib measures 14 cm, dec evenly as on back piece (front piece is 7 cm shorter than back piece). Work as back piece but when piece measures 16 and 26 cm, dec for BUTTONHOLE in each side - see explanation above! Continue to work until piece measures 53-55-57-58-60-62 cm. Now slip the middle 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts on 1 stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, slip sts on a stitch holder for diagonal shoulder as on back piece. When all sts have been put on a stitch holder/cast off, there are 22-24-25-28-30-34 sts on stitch holder for shoulder and front piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the top of shoulder and down. Slip sts from stitch holder on circular needle size 7 mm and K 1 row from WS as on back piece before casting off with K from RS. Repeat on the other shoulder. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge - make sure the seam is not tight. Place edge in garter st with buttonholes (front piece) in one side of piece over edge in garter st on back piece and sew on buttons. Repeat in the other side. NECK EDGE: Pick up from RS approx. 46 to 58 around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder at the front) on a short circular needle size 7 mm with 1 thread Cloud, 1 thread Wish ig 2 threads Air. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round before LOOSELY casting off with K. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (55)
Angelika Lorenz wrote:
Ich bindurch Zufall hier angekommen.Willerst schnuppern,habe Schwierigkeiten mit der Technik.Aber danke .
29.08.2021 - 10:26Lene Maarth wrote:
Jeg vil gerne strikke denne model i et materiale, der ikke er “flyffy” . Den skal være marineblå. Har kigget lidt på Nepal - hvad anbefaler I og hvor meget skal jeg bruge?
15.03.2021 - 14:05DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lene, prøv vores garnomregner, vælg DROPS Air - antal gram i din størrelse - 2 tråde - så får du flere forslag op til hvad du kan bruge i stedet for :)
17.03.2021 - 15:10Helén Grahn wrote:
Hej! Behöver lite hjälp med att förstå hur man gör med axeln. Har inte satt på tråd som det står någon gång förut.
27.02.2021 - 21:33Berit Vibits wrote:
Kan jeg bruge Andes garn til denne opskrift? Mvh Berit
21.02.2021 - 18:02DROPS Design answered:
Hej Berit. Ja det kan du göra. Tänk som vanligt bara på att få den stickfasthet som uppges i opskriften och att beräkna riktig garnforbruk. Mvh DROPS Design
22.02.2021 - 10:44Pia Sørensen wrote:
Hej. Jeg strikker str xxl. Jeg er nået til slutning af rygstykket. Jeg har sat 10 m på tråd 3 gange i hver side. Og arb. måler 73 cm. Jeg har nu 22m til hals. Men der står at jeg skal lukke de 20 midterste af til halsen. Hvad med de sidste 2 masker, hvad skal de? Så står der “luk 1 m af på næste p fra halsen” hvad betyder det? Pia
21.01.2021 - 19:36DROPS Design answered:
Hej Pia, efter at du har lukket de 20 masker af til hals, lukker du 1 maske mere af på næste pind (i hver side) det er de sidste 2 masker. God fornøjelse!
27.01.2021 - 14:57Liesbeth wrote:
Ik ben nog niet zo goed in het breien. Is er misschien ergens een stap voor stap foto uitleg of video voor het breien van de kraag? Ik kom er niet uit hoe dit te doen. Vooral de schuining van de schouders wil niet lukken.
20.01.2021 - 14:29DROPS Design answered:
Dag Liesbeth,
Helaas is er niet specifiek voor dit patroon een instructie voor de hals. Wel kun je in de bijgevoegde video's instructies vinden over rondbreien, hoe je steken opneemt langs een rand en hoe steken af te kanten aan de verkeerde kant. Hopelijk helpt dit je verder.
22.01.2021 - 16:32Marigold wrote:
Hi Can you help please I do not understand the front neck part have worked out the shoulders but don’t see how I can work the centre stitches on needle holder ( from where it says. Noe slip 12 stitches from center the work shoulders at the same time work by decreasing from neck edge ) sorry but could you write a longer explanation in English please . Thank you
07.01.2021 - 13:00DROPS Design answered:
Dear Marigold, work 1 row from RS slipping the middle 12 sts on a thread, you will now work both shoulders separately starting from right shoulder (when garment is worn). Turn and work next row from WS, at the beg of next row from RS (= starting from neck towards shoulder) you will cast off 2 sts, then work 1 row from WS, at the beg of next 2 row from neck you will cast off 1 stitch (= on next both RS rows). Continue to finished length, cast off. Now work stitches of left shoulder the same way, casting off the sts this time at the beg of a WS row. Happy knitting!
07.01.2021 - 15:54Laura Dolce wrote:
Carino e di effetto
05.01.2021 - 19:09Gitte wrote:
Hvad menes med “at sætte på tråd”
05.01.2021 - 18:16DROPS Design answered:
Hej Gitte, du sætter de hvilende masker (som ikke skal strikkes just nu) på en tråd. Se her: Sæt masker på en tråd
08.01.2021 - 10:51Grethe wrote:
Hvordan bestiller jeg garn og opskrift.
28.12.2020 - 15:40DROPS Design answered:
Hej Grethe, Klik på den grønne knap som forestiller en handlekurv, den er til højre på siden efter billedet og garnforbruget. God fornøjelse!
07.01.2021 - 13:25