DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Magic Web Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern on yoke worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 171-11
DROPS design: Pattern no u-787
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
500-550-600-700-750-800 g colour no 64, grey purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edge in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 7 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size). The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 84 sts), minus bands (e.g. 10 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 16) = 4.6. I.e. in this example inc after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th st (and do not inc over bands). Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All inc are done from RS.
Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn). Dec for buttonholes at the end of row from RS as follows: Work until 3 sts remain on row, make 1 YO, K 2 tog and K last st. On next row K the YO to make a hole. Dec for buttonhole on first row from RS after edge in garter st in neck. Then dec the next 6 buttonholes approx. 7-7-7½-7½-8-8 cm between each.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Worked in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 84-86-90-90-96-96 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and K 1 row from RS while inc 16-25-32-32-37-37 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = 100-111-122-122-133-133 sts.
For better shape work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Insert 1 marker mid back. Beg from WS and P until 11-12-13-13-15-15 sts have been worked past marker (K band), turn, tighten yarn and K 22-24-26-26-30-30. Turn, tighten yarn and P 33-36-39-39-45-45 sts, turn, tighten yarn and K 44-48-52-52-60-60 sts back. Turn, tighten yarn and P 55-60-65-65-75-75 sts, turn, tighten yarn and K 66-72-78-78-90-90 sts back. turn and P the rest of row (K band).
Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, * work A.1 (= 2 sts), work A.2 (= 9 sts – choose diagram for correct size) *, repeat from *-* 8-9-10-10-11-11 times in total, work A.1 and finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in A.2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.2 has been worked, there are 284-318-352-372-397-419 sts on needle. Work back from WS with garter st over garter st, K over K and P over P and inc AT THE SAME TIME 6-4-0-6-5-7 sts evenly = 290-322-352-378-402-426 sts (inc in K sections, i.e. P sections seen from RS). Piece measures now approx. 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm measured mid front (incl neck edge). Work next row as follows from RS: Work 5 band sts in garter st, K 40-44-48-53-58-63 (= right front piece), slip the next 60-68-75-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts on needle (= in the side under sleeve), K the next 80-88-96-106-116-126 (= back piece), slip the next 60-68-75-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts on row (= in the side under sleeve), K 40-44-48-53-58-63 and finish with 5 band sts as before.
Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 186-202-222-242-266-290 sts. Insert 1 marker 49-53-58-63-69-75 sts in from each side (= 88-96-106-116-128-140 sts between markers on back piece) - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking st back and forth with 5 band sts in garter st in each side as before. When piece measures 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Dec like this every 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm a total of 4-4-4-4-3-3 times in each side = 170-186-206-226-254-278 sts. When piece measures 15 cm (jacket measures approx. 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm from shoulder), inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts inc). Inc like this every 3½ cm 4-4-4-4-3-3 times in total in each side = 186-202-222-242-266-290 sts. When piece measures approx. 30 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from RS - jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder), switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work 3 ridges, switch back to circular needle size 4 mm and cast off with K from RS (this is done to avoid a tight cast-off edge). Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle top down, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Slip the 60-68-75-78-80-82 sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle size 4 mm and pick in addition 1 st in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts cast on under sleeve on body = 68-76-85-88-92-96 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve (= beg of round) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking st in the round. When piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 2½.-2.-1½.-1½.-1½.-1½.cm 14-17-20-21-22-23 times in total = 40-42-45-46-48-50 sts. When sleeve measures 42-41-39-38-37-36 cm (or desired length), switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above. Switch back to double pointed needles size 4 mm and cast off with K. Sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-40-39-38 cm from marker. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.10.2016
Correction: YOKE:...Piece measures now approx. 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm measured mid front (incl neck edge). Work next row as follows from RS: Work 5 band sts in garter st, K 40-44-48-53-58-63 (= right front piece), slip the next 60-68-75-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts on needle (= in the side under sleeve), K the next 80-88-96-106-116-126 (= back piece), slip the next 60-68-75-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts on row (= in the side under sleeve), K 40-44-48-53-58-63 and finish with 5 band sts as before.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO on next row (= hole)
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO twisted on next row (= not hole)
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Helen East wrote:

I am knitting Magic Web Cardigan in large. I cannot find on the pattern how many balls I will need. Can you confirm please

14.03.2020 - 22:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Heken, the sweater is knitted from Karisma yarn (100m / 50 gramm skeins), and depending on the size you are knitting you will need 10 - 11 - 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 skeins. Happy Knitting!

15.03.2020 - 10:10

country flag Helen East wrote:

I am knitting Magic Web Cardigan in large. I cannot find on the pattern how many balls I will need. Can you confirm please

14.03.2020 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Helen, see our answer to the other question. Happy Knitting!

15.03.2020 - 10:13

country flag Rojas Anita wrote:

Das ist ein sehr schönes Muster und lässt sich super einfach stricken. Den Pullover mache ich mir auch noch.

11.07.2019 - 15:09

country flag Sofie Laursen wrote:

Er det rigtigt forstået, at alle masker på vrangsiden skal strikkes vrang (bortset fra de få omslag, der skal strikkes drejet ret), når der står at diagrammet viser alle pinde i mønsteret set fra retsiden? Eller hvordan skal det forståes?

11.10.2018 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sofie. Ikke alle masker skal strikkes vrang fra vrangsiden: De hvite rutene strikkes vrang fra vrangen, og de rutene med sort strek skal strikkes rett fra vrangen (se symbolforklaringen). De kastene med sort symbol strikkes vridd rett slik at de ikke blir hull (som du sier), mens de grå kastene skal strikkes vrang slik at det blir hullmønster. God fornøyelse

16.10.2018 - 09:07

country flag Margaretha Jonsson wrote:

Mönstret börjar med nio maskor och ska upprepas nio ggr enl stl M. Min kalkyl. 111-14=97 /9 =10,8 Jag får helt enkelt inte ihop detta.

17.09.2017 - 12:01

Margaret Wright wrote:

If my chest is 107 cms and my hips are 130 cms what size would you recommend I knit. Thank you

02.07.2017 - 05:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Margaret, since your chest size would be of the XL size and your hips size would be of the XXL size, I recommend you start knitting the XL size and to finish the piece, in the area around the hips, you do some additional increases to end with the XXL size.

02.07.2017 - 11:53

country flag Anna wrote:

U schématu v popisu značek nahozených ok je v následující kruhové řadě ,ale v kruhu se neplete. Aby dírka nevznikla pletu hladce za zadní nit a aby vznikla pletu obrace?

21.03.2017 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, děkuji za upozornění - u vysvětlivek byla skutečně chyba, nyní jsou už vysvětlivy popsány správně. Ano, pletete tak, jak píšete - dírka = obrace, bez dírky = hladce za zadní nit. Hodně zdaru! Hana

05.05.2017 - 08:14

country flag Monika wrote:

Olen tekemässä kaarroketta koko L. A2 kaavio loppuu oikeaan kerrokseen. Ohjeen mukaan pitäisi tulla 2 nurjaa kerrosta peräkkäin? Miten on mahdollista?

12.10.2016 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Uskon, että kainaloiden silmukat päätetään työn oikealta puolelta. Ohjeeseen tehdään tarvittaessa pian korjaus!

19.10.2016 - 16:31

country flag Cheryl Stern wrote:

Waiting patiently for this pattern....interesting design at the shoulder area.

27.06.2016 - 16:55

country flag Karin wrote:

Hoppas denna går att sticka i lite större storlek, snygg!

26.06.2016 - 21:11