DROPS / 171 / 24

Misty Harbor by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper, worked top down with raglan and textured pattern in “Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ks-116
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-200-200 g colour no 10, grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of A.2 in every transition between sleeve and body. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in stocking st until the fit A.1 on body and work them in A.3 on sleeves NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves as explained in pattern and on some rounds there will only be inc on front and back piece and not on sleeves.


DISPLACEMENT IN A.2 (applies to front and back piece after armhole):
A.2 should be displaced from the side under sleeve to mid front/mid back.

On right front/back piece this is done as follows: Work as before until A.2, make 1 YO, work A.2 as before but when last st in A.2 remains slip this st as if to K, K 1 and psso. Continue pattern as before. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes - work new sts in A.3.

On left front/back piece this is done as follows: Work as before until 1 st remains before A.2, K next st tog with first st in A.2, work A.2 as before, make 1 YO and work the remaining sts as before. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes - work new sts in A.3.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in A.3.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Dec 2 sts mid under sleeve as follows: Beg 2 sts before A.2, K 2 tog, work A.2 (= 8 sts), slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 100-100-100-100-124-124 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with Kid-Silk. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 round while inc 20 sts evenly in all sizes = 120-120-120 -120-144-144 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3,5 mm. Work next round as follows: A.2 (= 8 sts in raglan line), A.3 over the next 8 sts (= right sleeve), A.2 (= 8 sts in raglan line), A.1 over the next 36-36-36-36-48-48 sts (= 6-6-6-6-8-8 repetitions of 6 sts on front piece), A.2 (= 8 sts in raglan line), A.3 over the next 8 sts (= left sleeve), A.2 (= 8 sts in raglan line), A.1 over the last 36-36-36-36-48-48 sts (= 6-6-6-6-8-8 repetitions of 6 sts on back piece). Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
AT THE SAME TIME on next round beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves:
BODY: Inc on every round 0-6-5-12-10-16 times in total, then on every other round 18 times in total in all sizes and finally every 4th round 6-6-7-6-8-8 times in total.
SLEEVES: Inc every other round a total of 14-19-27-30-33-32 times, and on every 4th round a total of 8-7-4-3-3-5 time.

After all inc are done there are 304-344-364-396-432-460 sts on needle. Work next round as follows: Work 4 sts (= ½ repetition of A.2), slip the next 60-68-78-82-88-90 sts on 1 stitch holder (= right sleeve), cast on 12-12-14-14-16 sts under sleeve, work the next 92-104-104-116-128-140 sts (= front piece), slip the next 60-68-78-82-88-90 sts on 1 stitch holder (= left sleeve), cast on 12-12-14-14-16 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 88-100-100-112-124-136 sts (= back piece). Cut the yarn.

BODY:
= 208-232-236-260-284-312 sts on needle (beg of round = in the middle of the 12-12-14-14-16 new sts under sleeve in the right side of piece). Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work next round as follows: 2 sts in garter st, 0-0-1-1-1-2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3, continue A.2 over the next 8 sts, continue A.1 over the next 84-96-96-108-120-132 sts at the front of jumper, continue A.2 over the next 8 sts, work 0-0-1-1-1-2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3, 4 sts in garter st (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 4 sts = in the middle of left side), 0-0-1-1-1-2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3, continue A.2 over the next 8 sts, continue A.1 over the next 84-96-96-108-120-132 sts at the back of jumper, continue A.2 over the next 8 sts, work 0-0-1-1-1-2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3 and finish with 2 sts in garter st.
Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on next round beg DISPLACEMENT IN A.2 – see explanation above. Repeat displacement every other round 24-24-24-24-30-30 times in total - NOTE: When displacing A.2, the total no of sts will be the same but there will be fewer sts in A.1 towards mid front and mid back and more sts in A.3 towards the sides. Sts in A.1 that do not fit in pattern when displacing, is worked in stocking st until they fit pattern again.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm from marker, inc 1 st on each side of the 4 sts in garter st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Inc like this every 6 cm a total of 3 times = 220-244-248-272-296-324 sts.
After last displacement there will be 6-8-8-10-10-12 repetitions of A.1 mid front/mid back (i.e. 36-48-48-60-60-72 sts with A.1). Now continue pattern without displacements.
When piece measures 22-22-23-24-24-24 cm from marker (jumper measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm from shoulder) divide the piece in the middle of the 4 sts in garter st in each side and finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 110-122-124-136-148-162 sts. Continue pattern as before with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side until piece measures 30-30-31-30-30-30 cm from marker (jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-56-58-60 cm from shoulder). P 1 row from WS while inc 8-8-6-6-6-8 sts evenly = 118-130-130-142-154-170 sts - NOTE: Continue the 2 edge sts in each side in garter st and continue A.2 with K over K and P over P (i.e. do not inc over A.2 or sts in garter st). Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st (adjust so that rib fits rib in A.2). Continue rib like this but on next row from RS inc all 2 P sts to 3 P sts (inc 1 st by making 1 YO in transition between K and P, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes) = 146-161-161-176-191-211 sts. When rib measures 4-4-4-6-6-6 cm, loosely cast of with garter st over garter st, K over K and P over P (to avoid a tight cast-off edge cast off with 2 strands Kid-Silk). Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

FRONT PIECE:
= 110-122-124-136-148-162 sts. Work as on back piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. Slip the 60-68-78-82-88-90 sts from stitch holder in one side of piece back on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm and cast in addition on 12-12-14-14-14-16 new sts mid under sleeve = 72-80-92-96-102-106 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue A.3 in the round but now work A.2 only over the middle 8 sts under sleeve.
When sleeve measures 1½ cm, dec 1 st on each side of A.2 - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Dec a total of 13-16-21-22-23-24 times in Size S: On every 7th round, in size M: Alternately on every 5th and 6th round, in size L + XL: On every 4th round, in size XXL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round and in size XXXL. On every 3rd round = 46-48-50-52-56-58 sts. When sleeve measures 32-31-31-31-28-27 cm, K 1 round while inc 14-16-18-16-16-14 sts evenly = 60-64-68-68-72-72 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib in the round over all sts (= K 2/P 2 but adjust to continue rib over A.2 mid under sleeve). When rib measures 8 cm, inc all P 2 to P 3 = 75-80-85-85-90-90 sts. When rib measures 12 cm (or desired length, sleeve measures now approx. 44-43-43-43-40-39 cm), cast off with K over K and P over P - NOTE: To avoid a tight cast-off edge cast off with 2 strands Kid-Silk.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.03.2017
BODY:
= 208-232-236-260-284-312 sts on needle (beg of round = in the middle of the 12-12-14-14-16 new sts under sleeve in the right side of piece)...
Updated online: 24.04.2018
Correction: The 8 sts for the sleeves in the yoke are knitted in A.3

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 1 from cable needle
= knitting direction


Lisa 10.04.2019 - 10:44:

Hej, jag ställde en fråga angående ökningen på F&B respektive ärmar men förstod tyvärr inte svaret. Ställer därför frågan igen och hoppas på ett förtydligande: FRAM- OCH BAKST: Öka på varje v totalt 0-6-5-12-10-16 ggr, sedan på vartannat v totalt 18 ggr i alla stl och till slut på vart 4:e v totalt 6-6-7-6-8-8 ggr. ÄRMARNA: Öka på vartannat v totalt 14-19-27-30-33-32 ggr och sedan på vart 4:e v totalt 8-7-4-3-3-5 ggr.

DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 14:43:

Hei Lisa. Det økes på begge sider av de 4 merkene, men ikke alltid på de samme omgangene. Hver gang du øker på for/bakdel økes 2 masker på fordel og 2 masker på bakdel. Hver gang du øker på ermene økes 2 masker på hvert erme. På for/ bakdel øker du hver 2. omg totalt 18 ganger. Samtidig øker du hver 2. omg på ermene totalt 14 ganger. Dvs: de første 14 gangene du øker, økes det på både ermene og for/ bakdel. Videre økes det hver 4. omg på ermene (dette skal gjøres 8 ganger), mens du fortsetter å øke hver 2. omg på for/bakdel. Når du har økt 18 ganger på for/bakdel går du over til å også øke hver 4. omg her (dette skal gjøres 6 ganger). God fornøyelse

Lisa 09.04.2019 - 23:06:

Hej, jag undrar över beskrivningen: FRAM- OCH BAKST: Öka på varje v totalt 0-6-5-12-10-16 ggr, sedan på vartannat v totalt 18 ggr i alla stl och till slut på vart 4:e v totalt 6-6-7-6-8-8 ggr. ÄRMARNA: Öka på vartannat v totalt 14-19-27-30-33-32 ggr och sedan på vart 4:e v totalt 8-7-4-3-3-5 ggr. Första ökningen på F&B i S ökas noll och sedan 18 maskor fördelat på fram- och bakdel? Alltså tex 9 maskor för framdel och 9 maskor för bakdel?

DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 07:37:

Hei Lisa. Du øker ved hver raglan på for- og bakstykket hver 2. omgang totalt 18 ganger. Dvs, 18 omganger der du øker 2 masker på forstykket og 2 masker på bakstykket (1 maske i hver side). Etter de 18 økingene er det altså 36 masker økt på forstykket og 36 masker økt på bakstykket. Videre øker du hver 4. omgang 6 ganger (12 masker økt på forstykket og 12 masker økt på bakstykket). Det samme gjelder på ermet: du øker ved hvert merke (i hver side av ermet) på hver 2. omgang 14 ganger. Altså 2 masker økt på hvert erme hver økning. God fornøyelse

Amelia 14.07.2018 - 01:09:

When it says divide the piece in the middle and finish back and front separately, does it mean that from that point it is knitted back and forth and then front and back are joined together in the round for the rib? I am confused because I don’t see front and back assembly instructions. Thank you!

DROPS Design 14.07.2018 kl. 11:28:

Hi Amelia, The piece is divided into front and back pieces so that you end up with a split in both sides. If you do not wish to have this split, you can continue in the round. Happy knitting!

Scoobie 16.03.2018 - 12:08:

Ich kenne die Methode des Abkettens mit zwei Fäden nicht und bin leider weder bei Ihren Anleitungen noch bei der Internetsuche fündig geworden. Gibt es ein Synonym dazu, oder könnten Sie es noch einmal erklären? Liebe Grüße aus Norddeutschland

DROPS Design 16.03.2018 kl. 14:15:

Liebe Scoobie, einfach der Faden von innen der Knäuel und der Faden von aussen der Knäuel zusammen nehmen und die Maschen wie normaleweise aber mit diesen beiden Fäden abketten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Steffi 04.03.2018 - 19:09:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu den Zunahmen im Passe. Ich stricke Größe M. Wenn ich nach dem Nadelwechsel 120 Maschen auf der Nadel habe und die im Wechsel 6 - 37 (18 für Rumpf+19 für Ärmel) - 6 - 13 (6 für Rumpf und 7 für Ärmel) Maschen zunehme, dann komme ich nach 14 Runden auf 349 Maschen statt 344. Was ist hier mein Fehler? Danke schonmal.

DROPS Design 05.03.2018 kl. 09:22:

Liebe Steffi, es werden 30 x für Rumpfteil zugenommen (= 6 + 18 + 6 = 30 x 4 Maschen = 120 M) und 26 x für die Ärmel (= 19+7= 26 x 4 Maschen = 104 M), so bekommen Sie 120 + 120 + 104 = 344 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Emiliemilie 27.12.2017 - 19:47:

Bonjour, Dans le paragraphe "décalage de A2", Est-ce que ce n'est pas plutôt : "Sur le devant droit/ dos gauche" (....) au lieu de "sur le devant/dos droit". "Sur le devant gauche/dos droit" (....) au lieu de "sur le devant/dos gauche"

Linda Wessel 13.12.2017 - 09:16:

I oppskriften start på bærestykke står det ermene strikkes i glattstrikk - mens på bildet er det tydelig at de er strikket i mønster A3 fra start? Lenger ned - når man skal strikke ermene står det at man fortsetter å strikke de i A3?

DROPS Design 13.12.2017 kl. 10:41:

Hej Linda, ja det stemmer, du strikker første p glat og fortsætter ærmerne og økningerne til raglan efter M.3. God fornøjelse!

Merle 23.11.2017 - 10:35:

LIebes Drops-Team, ich versuche vor Beginn der Arbeit die Anleitung zu durchdenken. Wenn ich es richtig verstehe, benötige ich für die Zunahmen in der Passe (Gr. L) 70 Runden und komme dann auf die erforderlichen 364 Maschen. Allerdings fehlen nach 70Runden ja die letzten beiden Reihen von A.1 und A.2. Ist das richtig und ich lasse diese dann weg und gehe direkt in die Runde zum stilllegen der Ärmelmaschen? VIelen Dank und Beste Grüße

DROPS Design 23.11.2017 kl. 13:38:

Liebe Frau Merle, wenn alle Zunahmen gemacht sind, haben Sie 364 M, dann einfach das nächste Runde mit Verteilung so stricken (die eventuellen restilichen Reihen von den Diagramme einfach nicht stricken). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Priska 14.11.2017 - 15:07:

Liebes Drops-Team. Was ist der Grund dass die Raglanzunahmen am Rumpfteil und am Ärmel in einem unterschiedlichen Rhythmus stattfinden? Was passiert, wenn beim Ärmel auch in jeder Runde aufgenommen wird?

DROPS Design 14.11.2017 kl. 16:36:

Liebe Priska, so bekommt man die gewünschte Maßen/ die genaue Maschenanzahl für jeden Teil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Emilie 05.10.2017 - 09:54:

Bonjour, Je souhaitais savoir si le motif A3, pour les manches, commence des l'empiècement, ou seulement après la séparation des manches du corps? Ce n'est pas précisé dans les explications, mais sur la photo, il me semble voir les "rayures" de A3 sur toute la manche. Le modèle est très joli!! je vais me régaler à le tricoter pour cet hiver!

DROPS Design 05.10.2017 kl. 13:17:

Bonjour Emilie, effectivement, les mailles des manches vont se tricoter en suivant A.3 (les augmentations du raglan se tricotent elles aussi en A.3 sur les manches). Bon tricot!

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