DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Shades of Eire

Knitted DROPS shawl with short rows, lace pattern and stripes, worked top down in 2 strands "Alpaca".

DROPS 171-8
DROPS design: Pattern no z-752
Yarn group A + A = C
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Measurements: approx. 60-65 cm / 23½"-25½" mid back and approx. 210 cm / 83'' along upper edge.
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100 g color no 7233, olive
150 g color no 7238, dark olive
250 g color no 7815 green/turquoise

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
STRIPES:
Work stripes as follows:
Cast on with 2 strands olive and work 1st-12th row, then repeat 5th-12th ROW 7 more times = 105 sts.
Switch to 1 strand olive and 1 strand dark olive, repeat 5th-12th ROW 9 times in total = 213 sts.
Switch to 1 strand dark olive and 1 strand green/turquoise, repeat 5th-12th ROW 8 times in total = 309 sts.
Then work pattern A.1-A.5 with 2 strands green/turquoise.

GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

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SHAWL:
Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 strands olive. Work STRIPES - see explanation above and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): K 1, 1 YO, P 1, 1 YO, K 1 = 5 sts.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 = 9 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle st (= mid st).
ROW 4 (= WS): 1 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work P until 1 st remains and finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue to work and inc as follows with 1 edge st in garter st in each side:
ROW 5 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K until mid st, 1 YO, K 1 (mid st), 1 YO, K until 2 sts remain on row, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO and 1 edge st in garter st.
ROW 6 (= WS): 1 edge st in garter st, P 2, P next YO twisted to avoid hole, P until 4 sts remain on row, P first YO twisted, P 2 and finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
ROW 7 (= RS): 1 edge st in garter st, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K until mid st, 1 YO, K 1 (= mid st), 1 YO, K until 2 sts remain on row, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO and 1 edge st in garter st.
ROW 8 (= short row from WS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 2, K 1 twisted (to avoid hole), K 4, turn piece. NOTE: K this row from WS to make a ridge seen from RS.
ROW 9 (= RS): Slip 1st st as if to K, tighten yarn and K 7.
ROW 10 (= WS): 1 edge st in garter st, P until 4 sts remain on row, P first YO twisted (to avoid hole), P 2 and finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
ROW 11 (= short row from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 7, turn piece.
ROW 12 (= WS): Slip 1st st as if to K, tighten yarn and K 7. NOTE: K this row from WS to make a ridge seen from RS. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Repeat 5th-12th ROW back and forth BUT on every repetition work 2 sts more on short rows until short rows have been worked over 26 sts in total in each side. Then work short rows over only over 26 sts until finished measurements (work the other sts in stockinette st as before). After every repetition 12 new sts inc (inc 5th and 7th ROW).

After last stripe and repetition of 5th-12th ROW there are 309 sts on needle. Switch to 2 strands green/turquoise. K 1 row from RS while inc 10 sts as follows: Inc as before in each side and at mid st (= 6 sts) and inc in addition 4 sts evenly (i.e. 2 sts on each side of middle st, inc these sts with YOs that are worked twisted on next row) = 319 sts on needle. K 1 row from WS (work edge sts in garter st as before).

Then work according to diagram as follows: A.1 over 2 sts, repeat A.2 until 1 st before mid st, work A.3 over the next 3 sts (mid st is in the middle of A.3), repeat A.4 until 2 sts remain and work A.5 over these sts. Then work diagram 1 time in total vertically. Do not cut the yarn but bind off with picot - see explanation below.

BIND-OFF EDGE WITH PICOT:
Loosely bind off with K from RS as follows: K 1, ((** insert right needle in between the first 2 sts on left needle (i.e. between sts on needle, not through sts), make 1 YO on right needle, pull YO forwards between sts and slip YO on left needle **, repeat from **-** 2 more times (= 3 new sts on left needle). * K first st on left needle, pass first st on right needle over last st worked *)), repeat from *-* 6 times in total and repeat from ((-)) along the entire shawl until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through last st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row work YO twisted to avoid hole
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1 and psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Malene wrote:

Hei, etter pinne 12.. Det står gjenta 5.-12.P fram og tilbake. Skal jeg da strikke fra 5-12 og så fra 12 til 5 igjen? Og skal jeg legge til 2 masker hver gang jeg strikker forkortet pinne?

19.11.2016 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Malene. Du strikker pinde 5 til 12 igen og ja du skal laegge 2 m til for hver forkortede p til du har strikket over totalt 26 m i hver side.

21.11.2016 - 14:40

country flag Mirjam wrote:

Lovely scarf, I 'm knitting it in aqua grey mix, light petroleum and petroleum mix

01.11.2016 - 10:05

country flag Christiane wrote:

Hei, jeg lurte på pinne 9 på sjalet ja.

26.10.2016 - 11:49

country flag Tora wrote:

Hei, på pinne 6. Et kast og en vridd maske vrang for å unngå hull. Er det et vanlig kast på pinnen òg så en vridd maske? El hente opp en maske mellom pinnene og gjøre den vridd vrang?

25.10.2016 - 10:54

country flag Christiane wrote:

Hei Er det mulig å få en ekstra forklaring på 9.P? Ev henvisning til video.

22.10.2016 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Christiane. Er det 9. p til sjalet eller diagrammet du spörger til?

25.10.2016 - 12:43

country flag Marjo wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas bien où se font les augmentations : 12m au rang 5 ET 12 m au rang 7, ou 6 à chaque fois? Et faut il répartir les augmentations dans le rang ou bien les ajouter en début ou en fin de rang? Merci

16.10.2016 - 17:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marjo, on augmente 6 m à chaque fois que l'on tricote le rang 5 et 6 m à chaque fois que l'on tricote le rang 7, ainsi, en répétant les rangs 5 à 12, on augmente 12 m. Bon tricot!

17.10.2016 - 10:15

country flag Hana wrote:

Není mi jasný návod na Pikotkové zakončení. Po nahození 3 nových ok na levé jehlici, pletu "první oko hladce" to poslední nahozené nebo původně první, čili nyní čtvrté? Díky za odpověď, Hanka

13.10.2016 - 11:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Hanko, jde o 1. oko po směru pletení, tj. od špičky jehlice (tedy poslední z nahozených 3 ok). Hodně zdaru! Hana

18.10.2016 - 06:55

country flag Malene wrote:

Takk for svar, men er fortsatt litt usikker.. Er 1 rille 2 pinner med rettstrikk på alle maskene? (P betyr vel omgang?) Eller er det slik: På 4.P står det jo 1 kant-m RILLE, betyr det på første masken bare? Så blir det vrangstrikk fram til siste maske som skal strikkes rett? Så blir det en rett maske på hver side av maskene jeg strikker vrange? Er en kant-m RILLE rett og slett bare én maske som strikkes rett? :-)

12.10.2016 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. 1 kant-m i RILLE er bare 1 maske

13.10.2016 - 12:16

country flag Malene Christiane Lydersen wrote:

Beklager for trippelmelding :-)

12.10.2016 - 11:40

country flag Malene Christiane Lydersen wrote:

Hei På drops 171 - 8. Det står tidlig i oppskriften 4.P(=vrangen): 1 kant-m RILLE - Se forkl over,... Hvor er denne forklaringen i oppskriften? Finner den ikke og aner ikke hva jeg skal gjøre.. Trenger og få det inn med skje :-) Mvh Malene

12.10.2016 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Malene. RILLE er retstrik paa alle pinde (baade r og vr siden). Vi skal faa det tilföjet i mönstret, saa det er tydeligt.

12.10.2016 - 12:11