DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 3.60 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Arrowhead

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and shawl collar in ”Alaska”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 173-22
DROPS design: Pattern no x-418
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g color no 04, gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 for rib - or size needed to get 18 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS BUTTON: ROUND (steel), NO 542: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 3.60 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

SHORT ROWS BAND:
For every 20 rows worked, work as follows: Work over the first 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts from RS, turn and work back over these sts, work 1 row from RS (with pattern and garter st as before) over all sts. Work over the first 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts from WS, turn and work back over these sts, work 1 row from WS (with pattern and garter st as before) over all sts.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st in each side of section in stockinette st as follows:
K 1, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, work until 3 sts remain, K 2 tog, K 1.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc with 1 YO inside first and last st in stockinette st, P the inc sts twisted on next row to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for 4 buttonholes on right front piece (from RS): Work 3 sts, K 2 tog, 1 YO, work 6-7-8-9-10-11 sts, K 2 tog, 1 YO = 2 buttonholes on same row (3 sts remain on band).
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 28 and 36 cm/ 11" and 14 1/4"
SIZE M: 29 and 37 cm/ 11½" and 14½"
Size L: 30 and 38 cm/ 11 3/4" and 15"
SIZE XL: 31 and 39 cm/ 12 1/4" and 15 1/4"
Size XXL: 32 and 40 cm/ 12½" and 15 3/4"
SIZE XXXL: 33 and 41 cm/ 13" and 16"
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.

BODY:
Cast on 215-233-243-269-295-313 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Alaska. P 1 row from WS, then work as follows - from RS: 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts in garter st (= band), P 2, A.1 (= 13 sts), A.2 (= 10 sts), rib K 2/P 2 over the next 24-32-36-48-60-68 sts, K 2, A.2, A.3 (= 15 sts), P 2, A.4 (= 27 sts), P 2, A.3, A.2, rib K 2/P 2 over the next 24-32-36-48-60-68 sts, K 2, A.2, A.1, P 2, 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts in garter st (= band). Work SHORT ROWS over sts in band – see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Repeat the first 2 row in A.1 - A.4 until piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', AT THE SAME TIME adjust so that next row is worked from RS, then work the last 2 row in A.1 - A.4, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-5-6-9-12-11 sts evenly over the 26-34-38-50-62-70 sts rib in each side = 182-198-206-226-246-266 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8.

Then work as follows from RS: 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts in garter st, P 2, A.5 (= 10 sts), P 8, K 22-29-32-41-50-59, P 8, A.6 (= 12 sts), P 2, A.7 (= 22 sts), P 2, A.8 (= 12 sts), P 8, K 22-29-32-41-50-59, P 8, A.9 (= 10 sts), P 2, 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts in garter st.

When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', dec 1 st in every P section with P 8 and dec 1 st in each side of section in stockinette st - READ DECREASE TIP (= 8 sts dec), dec the same way every 4 cm / 1½'', 6 times in total, dec alternately on right and left side of P sections = 134-150-158-178-198-218 sts. Dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. When piece measures 34 cm / 13½'', inc 1 st in every P section with a dec, and 1 st in each side of every section in stockinette st (= 8 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm / 18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20'' = 150-166-174-194-214-234 sts. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm / 19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8'', work as follows from RS: Work the first 38-41-43-48-53-58 sts as before, bind off the next 4-6-6-6-6-6 sts, work the next 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts as before, bind off the next 4-6-6-6-6-6 sts and work the last 38-41-43-48-53-58 sts as before. Now finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE: = 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts. Continue pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME continue bind off in each side for armholes on every other row: Dec 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 0-0-1-3-5-7 times = 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts. Continue the pattern as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'', bind off the middle 20-22-24-26-28-30 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row bind off 1 st towards the neck = 22 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-41-43-48-53-58 sts. Continue pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME continue bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 38-39-40-41-42-43 sts. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'', bind off the first 22 sts from WS = 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts remain on needle (= band). Work the rest of row. Then work short rows over the 16-17-18-19-20-21 sts as follows - beg from RS: * Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 8-8-9-9-10-10 sts, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until neck edge measures 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4½"-4½" at the shortest. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed. Bind off for shoulder from RS and beg short rows from WS.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 45-45-50-50-50-50 sts on double pointed needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Alaska. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 3. When rib measures 10 cm / 4'', K 1 round while dec 11-9-12-10-10-8 sts evenly = 34-36-38-40-40-42 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and continue in stockinette st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. When piece measures 11 cm / 4½'', inc 1 st on each side of marker, inc every 4-3½-3-2½-2-1½ cm / 1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-½" a total of 9-10-11-13-15-17 times = 52-56-60-66-70-76 sts. When piece measures 47-47-47-46-45-44 cm / 18½"-18½"-18½"-18"-17 3/4"-17 1/4" (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulders), bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker), now finish piece back and forth on needle. Bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 0-1-1-2-3-5 times, bind off 2 sts in each side of piece until piece measures 53-53-54-54-54-55 cm / 21"-21"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21½", bind off 3 sts in each side and bind off the remaining sts. Piece measures 54-54-55-55-55-56 cm / 21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21½"-21½"-21½"-22" in total.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to neck line. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 30.05.2017
BODY: .. When piece measures 34 cm / 13½'', inc 1 st in every P section with a dec, and 1 st in each side of every section in stockinette st (= 8 sts inc)

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (70)

country flag Jean Thurlow wrote:

Thank you for your quick respond your answer helps my fault I don’t always read the pattern correctly As I tend to get carried away Have knitted several items without a problem Great site and thanks again

28.03.2024 - 11:15

country flag Jean Thurlow wrote:

I’m not at the armholes I am at the beginning of the body and 8 stitches decrease from 215 does not make 182 stitches so therefore the pattern does not work out

28.03.2024 - 08:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jean, Looking at the smallest sizes: in the first row, you knit the A.1 pattern 2 times, A.2 pattern 4 times, , A 3 pattern 2 times, and A4 patterns 1 time. In the 3d row of these patterns you decrese A.1 = -3 stitch, A2=+2 stitch, A.3=-3 stitch, A.4-5 stitch. So if you look at the row, you decrease alltogether 25 stitches (215-3-2-2-3-5-3-2-2-3= 190 stitches) Then the pattern tells you to decrese evenly 4 stitches on the ribbing at both side, that is another 8 stitches minus, and there you have the 182 stitches. I hope that helps. Happy Knitting!

28.03.2024 - 09:27

country flag Jean Thurlow wrote:

On the cardigan I cast on 215 stitches then it says to cast off 4 stitches on each side before changing needles making a total of 207 stitches but pattern says 182 stitches left Is there a fault or am I not reading it correctly Help

27.03.2024 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jane, there are decreases in the pattern to ive tha cardigan a strong A shape, that is whiy you have less stitches at the armholes, than you started with. Happy Knitting!

27.03.2024 - 22:26

country flag Veerle Van Coillie wrote:

Waarom krijg ik geen antwoord op mijn opmerking over het foute patroon ? Het zou jammer zijn voor alle anderen na mij !

11.02.2024 - 09:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Je vraag was als opmerking geplaatst, vandaar dat hij niet in beeld kwam bij mij in eerste instantie. Nu het antwoord op je vraag: Het klopt dat de bovenwijdtes verschillend zijn, dit is ook aangegeven in de maattekening onderaan het patroon. Het ene vest is dus wijder dan het andere vest en heeft dus een andere pasvorm.

14.02.2024 - 20:16

country flag Veerle Van Coillie wrote:

Dat is dan ook nog inclusief de boord aan weerszijde van 10 cm voor de sluiting die over elkaar moet met de knoopsluiting.

22.01.2024 - 20:38

country flag Veerle Van Coillie wrote:

Nog niet lang geleden patroon 172-39 gebreid in maat L prima ! Ik maak altijd een proeflapje en gebruik de aangegeven wol. Nu vest 173-22 af en de maat L is veel kleiner ! Dus te klein ! Van het eerst genoemde vest is de bovenwijdte 58 cm maat L van het laatst gebreide maat L 48 cm ? Ik ben heel erg teleurgesteld, het is dus veel te klein !!!!!!

22.01.2024 - 16:30

country flag Li wrote:

Hej! Har stickat denna modell nu och blir besviken över att den sitter så tätt på kroppen och går inte helt omlott i framkanten. Vågar jag blocka den och i så fall hela eller bara delar av den, t ex bara i sidan eller framstycket?? Är rädd att hålmönstret ska töjas ut för mycket bl a. Förklara gärna hur det är tänkt vad gäller bl a blockning eller hur ni tycker man ska göra. Mvh Li

21.10.2022 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, ja du kan prøve forsigtigt på den nederste ribkant. Mål før og efter så du ser hvor meget det påvirker :)

25.10.2022 - 13:15

country flag Margret Scipio wrote:

Lijf na de boord: je volgt patroon 5 t/m 9 met daar tussen rechte en av steken aan de goede kant. Brei je dezelfde steken ook aan de verkeerde kant? Dus ook bijv. 8 AV en 22 R (in maat S)? Of juist andersom?

24.09.2022 - 18:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Margret,

De steken die je recht breit aan de goede kant, brei je averecht aan de verkeerde kant en vice versa. Dus zoals ook aangegeven staat bij de symboolverklaring boven de telpatronen.

27.09.2022 - 18:16

country flag Claudine wrote:

Ne peut-on pas tricoter la bordure avec 2 fils afin que celle ci soit plus solide comme pour le modèle bluebird n° U-619 ? afin que le col et la bordure soient plus fermes et jolis ? Merci de votre retour

10.09.2022 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claudine, c'est un choix qui n'a pas été fait pour ce modèle, peut-être en raison de la laine, dans ce cas, je ne pense pas que ce soit nécessaire, mais vous pouvez essayer si vous le souhaitez (notez que la quantité de laine en sera affectée aussi). Bon tricot!

12.09.2022 - 09:59

country flag Thera Klerk De Van Der Heijden wrote:

Ik brei patroon 173-22\r\nIk kom niet uit met de telling in het patroon.\r\nGraag met mij meekijken:\r\nMaat L LIJF 243 stkn. (in de boordsteek 38 stkn.) moet ik 2x 6 stk gelijkmatig minderen. Dan moet ik 206 stkn. overhouden maar 243 -12 =231 Van de 36 2r/2av houd ik dan geen 32 maar 29 over. In het patroon is die 36 ineens 38????? RaRA\r\nThera

07.01.2022 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Thera,

Naast de 2x6 steken minderen in de boordsteek aan elke kant, zijn er ook minderingen opgenomen in de telpatronen (2 av samen). Als je in de boordsteek 38 steken hebt en je mindert daar 6 steken, dan heb je 32 steken over. In de volgende paragraaf brei je weer 32 recht over die steken.

12.01.2022 - 09:56