DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Dragon Fire

Knitted DROPS shawl with lace pattern, stripes and stockinette st, worked top down in ”Alpaca” and ”Fabel”.

DROPS 173-35
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-361
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. 62 cm / 24½'' mid back, and approx. 168 measured cm / 66'' along the edge at the top.
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100 g color no 2925, rust
150 g color no 5565, bourgogne
And use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 672, bourgogne

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
Measure all stripes in knitting direction.
20 cm / 8'' with rust Alpaca and work EYELET PATTERN - see explanation below.
6 cm / 2½'' with bourgogne Fabel.
12 cm / 4 3/4'' with bourgogne Alpaca and work EYELET PATTERN.
4 cm / 1½'' with rust Alpaca and work EYELET PATTERN.
6 cm / 2½" with bourgogne Fabel.
4 cm / 1½'' with bourgogne Alpaca.

EYELET PATTERN:
Work eyelet pattern, beg from WS as follows:
ROW 1: K from WS.
ROW 2: K from RS inc as before in the sides and at markers.
ROW 3: 2 edge sts in garter st in each side, P all other sts and YOs from WS.
ROW 4: Work 2 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO, K 1, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and stop repetition at least 1 st before st with marker and work in stockinette st as before and inc at marker, work in stockinette st at least 1 st past marker. Repeat from *-* and stop repetition at least 1 st before st with marker and work in stockinette st as before and inc at marker, work in stockinette st at least 1 st past marker. Repeat from *-* until at least 3 sts remain, K 1, 1 YO and 2 sts in garter st. NOTE: Make sure to make equal number of (K 2 tog, 1 YO) so that the number of sts only inc at the markers and in the sides.
ROW 5: 2 edge sts in garter st in each side, P all other sts and YOs from WS.
ROW 6: K from RS inc as before in the sides and at markers.
ROW 7: K from WS and switch color to next STRIPE - see explanation above.

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SHAWL:
The piece is worked top down. Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with rust Alpaca. Work in stockinette st and inc as follows:
ROW 1: (= RS) K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 = 5 sts.
ROW 2: (= WS) K all sts.
ROW 3: K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 1 = 4 sts inc and 9 sts on needle.
ROW 4 and all rows from WS: Work 2 edge sts in garter st each side and P all sts and YOs, YO should make holes.
ROW 5: K 2, * 1 YO, K 1 *, repeat from *-* 6 times and K 1 = 6 sts inc and 15 sts on needle.
ROW 7: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO and 2 edge sts in garter st = 4 sts inc and 19 sts on needle.
ROW 9: 2 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, K 1 and insert a marker in this st, 1 YO, K 3, 1 YO, K 1 and insert a marker in this st, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO and 2 edge sts in garter st = 6 sts inc and 25 sts on needle.
ROW 11: 2 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO and K until first marker, 1 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), K until st with marker, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO, K until 2 sts remain, 1 YO and 2 edge sts in garter st = 4 sts inc and 29 sts on needle.
ROW 13: 2 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO, K until first marker, 1 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO, K until second marker, 1 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 1 YO, K until 2 sts remain on needle, 1 YO and 2 edge sts in garter st = 6 sts inc and 35 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

Repeat 11th-14th ROW while working STRIPES AND EYELET ROWS - see explanation above. After last stripe bourgogne Alpaca do not cut the yarn but bind off a picot edge - see explanation below.

BIND-OFF WITH PICOT:
Loosely bind off with K from RS with rust Alpaca as follows: K 1, ((** insert right needle in between the first 2 sts on left needle (i.e. between sts on needle, not through sts), make 1 YO on right needle, pull YO forwards between sts and slip YO on left needle **, repeat from **-** 2 more times (= 3 new sts on left needle). * K first st on left needle, pass first st on right needle over last st worked *)), repeat from *-* 6 times in total and repeat from ((-)) along the entire shawl until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through last st.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Jenna wrote:

Hi, I have 2 questions: 1. Which row of the stockinette portion am I supposed to work last before moving on to row 1 (WS) of the eyelet portion, row 14 (WS) or row 13 (RS)? I think I'm supposed to end by working row 13, but I'm not sure. 2. The stockinette portion increases on the RS rows 4-6-4-6-4-6 by repeating rows 11-14, but if I work the 3 RS rows in the eyelet portion as 4-6-4 and move back to rows 11-14 it ends up as 4-6-4-4-6-4-6-4-6. Am I missing something here? Thanks!

09.02.2020 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jenna, the first row in the eyelet pattern is worked from WS, so that previous row should be a RS row. I'm sorry I don't understand your 2nd question, could you please tell more?

10.02.2020 - 09:53

country flag Elsje wrote:

Aan het eind van het breiwerk brei ik een picotrand. Wat er dan gebeurt is heel jammer: het breiwerk krult om! Ik heb het - met veel moeite! - weer uitgehaald en probeer het omkrullen nu te voorkomen door eerst maar een paar regels boordsteek te breien. Of hebben jullie een andere tip?

17.01.2020 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Elsje,

Het kan zijn dat je de picotrand iets te strak maakt, waardoor hij omkrult. Als dat niet het geval is en hij krult nog steeds om, dan zou je de rand op kunnen persen door het werk op de strijkplank te leggen, daarover heen een natte theedoek en dan heel, heel voorzichtig deppen met het strijkijzer. Je kan het werk ook blocken, zie deze video

18.01.2020 - 12:01

country flag DUCHENE wrote:

S'il vous plait : Pour le modèle 173-35 quelles couleurs commandées pour approcher le plus des couleurs de la photo ? (les n° que vous indiquez ne correspondent pas à la photo du châle) Je voudrais de l'orange. Merci bcp d'avoir rétabli la rubrique : "mes modèles préférés"

07.02.2019 - 16:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Duchene, les couleurs indiquées dans les explications sont bien celles du châle, toutefois, lors de la prise de photo, la luminosité peut donner un effet différent aux couleurs. Votre magasin DROPS pourra vous aider à choisir les couleurs, même par mail ou téléphone, n'hésitez pas à le contacter. Bon tricot!

08.02.2019 - 08:33

country flag Blume wrote:

Ist es richtig, dass abwechselnd einmal beidseitig der markierten Maschine und einmal nur einseitig zugenommen wird. Danke, Ute

23.12.2017 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Blume, wenn Sie Reihe 11 wiederholen, nehmen Sie 1 M vor der 1. + vor der 2. Markierung auf. Wenn Sie Reihe 13 wiederholen, nehmen Sie 1 M beidseitig jeder den 2 Markierungen auf. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2018 - 08:13

country flag Gina Von Staden wrote:

Hallo, ich freue mich an den Farben und dem Muster dieses Tuches, komme aber mit den Maßen nicht klar. Wenn ich die Streifen zusammenzähle komme ich auf 52cm (20+6+12+4+6+4=52) in der hinteren Mitte, bei der Beschreibung steht jedoch, dass das Tuch in der hinteren Mitte 62cm lang sein soll. Wie erklärt sich diese Diskrepanz? Mir ist es wichtig, dass das Tuch am Ende groß genug ist. Vielen Dank! Gina

21.12.2017 - 18:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Van Staden, die Streifen werden in Strickrichtung gemessen, dann bei den Zunahmen wird es etwas länger sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.12.2017 - 07:52

country flag Antonella wrote:

Guardando la foto sembrerebbe che il motivo con i buchini sia in fondo ad ogni striscia di colore e non solo in fondo ad alcune. È così? Anche se purtroppo ormai sono già andato dritto seguendo le istruzioni.

08.12.2017 - 17:22

country flag Erika Klarner wrote:

Guten Tag, seit langer Zeit verarbeite ich drops-Garne und die kostenlosen Anleitungen Momentan stricke ich das Tuch DRAGON FIRE. Mir scheint, dass die Streifenreihen auf der Abbildung nicht der Anleitung entsprechen. Stimmt das? Mit freundlichen Grüßen und herzlichen Dank im Vorraus Erika Klarner

28.05.2017 - 11:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Klarner, Anleitung stimmt, bitte nicht vergessen, die Streifen in Strickrichtung messen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.05.2017 - 09:48

country flag Bodil wrote:

Hej! De ränder man skall göra hålvarv i, stickar man det antal cm som står och sedan kommer hålvarvet, som t ex första randen, man stickar 20 cm och sedan kommer hålvarvet? Tänker jag rätt då? Tack på förhand./Bodil

09.11.2016 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Bodil, Ja du har helt rätt :)

16.03.2017 - 11:49

country flag Friederike wrote:

Ich habe zu diesem schicken Tuch ein paar Fragen: Man fängt mit 3 M an und dann wird zugenommen. Oder? Wird dann das Tuch von unten nach oben gestrickt? Ansonsten habe ich doch an der oberen langen Kante keine gerade Kante. Oder habe ich da in der Anleitung etwas falsch verstanden? Ansonsten stricke ich ab der 14. Reihe immer das Lochmuster und die ersten zwei und letzten zwei M einer Reihe kraus rechts. Oder? Danke für eine Rückmeldung. Viele Grüße, Friederike

07.08.2016 - 21:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Friederike, man beginnt mit 3 Maschen und strickt wie angegeben von oben nach unten. Die Form (auch die obere Kante) ergibt sich durch die Zunahmen.

08.08.2016 - 08:50

country flag Pashmina wrote:

En vacker sjal

21.07.2016 - 07:59