DROPS Cloud
DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Winter Cozy

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat in “Cloud” or "Air" and shawl worked from side to side in garter st with cable edge in “Cloud” or "Air".

DROPS 172-10
DROPS design: Pattern no co-040
Yarn group E or C + C
----------------------------------------------------------
HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
50-100 g colour no 03, pearl grey

Or use 2 threads:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
100-150 g colour no 03, pearl grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 7 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

SHAWL:
Measurements: approx. 45 cm in the middle and approx. 165 cm from tip to tip.
Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
250 g colour no 03, pearl grey

Or use 2 threads:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 03, pearl grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 22 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cable edge.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Cloud
DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

HAT:

DECREASE TIP:
Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Cast on 56-60 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with Cloud or 2 threads Air. Work 4 rounds in stocking st (= rolling edge). Work next round as follows: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Work 1 more round with K over K and P over P. Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 21-22 cm, insert 8-10 markers in the piece, 7-6 sts apart. On next round dec 1 st after every marker - SEE DECREASE TIP (= 8-10 sts dec). Dec like this every other round a total of 3 times, then every round a total of 2 times. On next round K all sts twisted tog two by two = 8-5 sts on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Piece measures approx. 26-27 cm from top and down (incl rolling edge).
----------------------------------------------------------

SHAWL:

KNITTING TIP:
Work shawl in garter st with a cable edge along bottom edge. Work this cable edge of the outermost 12 sts. Do not work any edge st on the cable (i.e. work outermost st in A.1 as a normal st in stocking st from both RS and WS), otherwise the cable will not roll and get the correct bounce.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

MEASURING TIP:
Measure shawl along the straight edge without inc/dec.
----------------------------------------------------------

SHAWL:
Worked from side to side. Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with Cloud or 2 threads Air and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): K 2, K 1 in front and behind in next st = 4 sts on row.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 3 = 5 sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): K 3, P YO twisted, P 1.
ROW 5 (= RS):K 2, 1 YO, K 3 = 6 sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K 3, P YO twisted, P 2.
ROW 7 (= RS):K 3, 1 YO, K 3 = 7 sts.
ROW 8 (= WS):K 3, P YO twisted, P 3.
ROW 9 (= RS): K 4, 1 YO, K 3 = 8 sts.
ROW 10 (= WS): K 3, P YO twisted, P 4.
ROW 11 (= RS): K 5, 1 YO, K 3 = 9 sts.
ROW 12 (= WS): K 3, P YO twisted, P 5.
ROW 13 (= RS): K 1 in front and behind in each of the first 6 sts, insert 1 marker, K 3 = 15 sts.
ROW 14 (= WS): K 3, marker, P 12.

Continue to work and inc as follows - READ KNITTING TIP AND REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION.
ROW 1 (= RS): Work pattern according to diagram A.1 over the first 12 sts, work 2 sts in first st after marker and K the rest of row (= 1 st inc).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until marker and A.1 over the last 12 sts.
ROW 3 (= RS): A.1 over the first 12 sts, marker, K the rest of row.
ROW 4 (= WS): K until marker and A.1 over the last 12 sts.
Repeat 1st-4th row (i.e. inc 1 st every 4th row) until there are 56 sts on row. Piece now measures approx. 81 cm - READ MEASURING TIP.

Now work short rows to avoid a tight cable over the tip as follows:
* Work 2 rows back and forth over the 12 sts in A.1, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts on row as before but do not inc *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, then work 2 rows back and forth over the 12 sts A.1 again.

Then work and dec as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work pattern according to diagram A.1 over the first 12 sts, K the 2 first sts after marker tog and K the rest of row (= 1 st dec).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until marker and A.1 over the last 12 sts.
ROW 3 (= RS): A.1 over the first 12 sts, marker, K the rest of row.
ROW 4 (= WS): K until marker and A.1 over the last 12 sts.
Repeat 1st-4th row (i.e. dec 1 st every 4th row) until 15 sts remain on row (piece now measures approx. 159 cm).

Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K all sts in A.1 tog tog 2 by 2, marker, K 3 = 9 sts remain on needle.
ROW 2 (= WS): K 3, P 6.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 4, K 2 tog, K 3 = 8 sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): K 3, P 5.
ROW 5 (= RS):K 3, K 2 tog, K 3 = 7 sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K 3, P 4.
ROW 7 (= RS):K 2, K 2 tog, K 3 = 6 sts.
ROW 8 (= WS):K 3, P 3.
ROW 9 (= RS): K 1, K 2 tog, K 3 = 5 sts.
ROW 10 (= WS): K 3, P 2.
ROW 11 (= RS): K 2 tog, K 3 = 4 sts.
ROW 12 (= WS): K 4.
ROW 13 (= RS): K 2 tog, K 2.
ROW 14 (= WS): Cast off with K.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS

symbols = slip 6 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 6, K 6 from cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 172-10

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Monique wrote:

Une fois le produit fini, avec la même laine et j'ai obtenu un châle beaucoup trop long par rapport à sa largeur. Il faut peut être faire des augmentations plus rapides pour avoir un châle plus large.

09.03.2023 - 09:08

country flag Alejandra Estela Sotelo Sotelo wrote:

A ver si entiendo bien, en el ancho maximo o pico del chal, para que la trenza no quede tirante, hay que hacer tres vueltas o hileras antes de empezar a disminuir? Desde ya muchas gracias y hermosos todos sus modelos. Una maravilla

21.07.2022 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Alejandra, * Trabajar 2 filas de ida y vta sobre los 12 pts de A.1, trabajar 2 filas de ida y vta sobre todos los pts de la fila como antes pero sin aumentos *, repetir de *a* un total de 3 vcs, ahora trabajar 2 filas de ida y vta sobre los 12 pts de A.1 otra vez. Ahora trabajar y dism ... Buen trabajo!

22.07.2022 - 21:52

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi,another question if you don’t mind.besides the wool air and wish,what other yarn do you recommend with 1 strand.thks carol.

03.06.2022 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Maitland, you can use any other yarn group E or 2 strands yarn group C - use our yarn converter to see some alternatives as well as the new amount of yarn. Happy knitting!

03.06.2022 - 16:07

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi,I have a question about this pattern,actually the chart.have never knitted from a chart before,any guidelines. Where the lines are in diagram a1 this is where you do the cables right.will hv more questions as I progress. Thks,hv a great day.carol

03.06.2022 - 15:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Maitland, you will read more about diagrams here - and maybe this video will help you to understand even better how to read diagrams and how to work the cable. Happy knitting!

03.06.2022 - 16:06

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi thks for answering my question on this pattern.you have suggested drops air for this,would it be ok to use 1 strand of drops wish instead.thks

17.03.2022 - 09:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Maitland, correct, you can use either 2 strands Air or then 1 strand Wish - use our yarn converter to let it calculate new amount of yarn. Happy knitting!

17.03.2022 - 11:18

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi I would like to knit this pattern Drops 172-10.It calls for Drops Clouds but that is discontinued.Could you give me an alternative for this pattern in 1 strand. Thks so much Carol Maitland.

16.03.2022 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Carol, The alternative yarn recommended here is Air which is in yarn group C. 2 strands of a yarn from group C is equivalent to 1 strand of any yarn in group E. So you can choose a yarn from group E and work with 1 strand. Happy knitting!

17.03.2022 - 06:53

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi I wouldlike to knit the above pattern,but the yarn cloud is now discontinued,which yarns could I use for this project,would I be able to use the yarn wish. thks Carol.

25.10.2021 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Carol, your question has been already answered. Please check the comment section in the pattern. Happy knitting!

25.10.2021 - 14:49

country flag Carol Maitland wrote:

Hi I would like to knit the above pattern but Cloud is now discontinued,could I use Wish as a replacement wool. and would that be 1 strand. Thks Carol.

24.10.2021 - 17:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Carol, yes you can replace DROPS Cloud with DROPS Wish. You will be using only 1 strand. You will need from 350 g (size S/M) - 500 g (size L/XL) of yarn for the whole set. Happy knitting!

24.10.2021 - 18:20

country flag Angela wrote:

Buongiorno, mi piace moltissimo questo bordo e vorrei chiedere se, secondo voi, è possibile utilizzare lo schema come bordo per un lavoro in piano [coi ferri dritti] ossia un rettangolo che cucirò come coprispalle senza maniche. Mi piacerebbe davvero molto. grazie mille per una gentile risposta. Angela

25.01.2021 - 14:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Angela, si può usarlo come bordo lavorato con i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

25.01.2021 - 18:25

country flag Kirsten wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, bei den verkürzten Reihen verstehe ich das richtig 1 hinreihe über die Maschen von A1 stricken und 1Rückreihe und das zwei mal. In der nächsten Reihe das alle Maschen stricken. Und das insgesamt 3×wiederholen. Ist das richtig? LG Kirsten

10.01.2021 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kirsten, für die verkürzten Reihen stricken Sie so: 1 Hinreihe über die Maschen von A.1, wenden und 1 Rückreihe über diese Maschen stricken, 1 Hinreihe über alle Maschen, wenden, die Rückreihe über alle Maschen stricken*, und von *-* wiederholen = 4 Reihen über die Maschen von A.1 und nur 2 Reihen über die anderen Maschen - 3 Mal = 12 Reihen über die Maschen von A.1 und 6 Reihen über die anderen und noch 2 Reihen wie zuvor nur über die Maschen von A.1 stricken (= 14 Reihen über A.1 insgesamt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.01.2021 - 09:43