DROPS / 172 / 10

Winter Cozy by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat in “Cloud” or "Air" and shawl worked from side to side in garter st with cable edge in “Cloud” or "Air".

DROPS design: Pattern no co-040
Yarn group E or C + C
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HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21''/22'' - 22½''/23½''
Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
50-100 g color no 03, pearl gray
Or use 2 threads:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
100-150 g colour no 03, pearl grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 7 mm / US 10.75 - or size needed to get 12 sts x 16 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

SHAWL:
Measurements: approx. 45 cm / 17 3/4'' in the middle and approx. 165 cm / 65'' from tip to tip.
Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
250 g color no 03, pearl gray
Or use 2 threads:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 03, pearl grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 22 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cable edge.

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (25)
DROPS Cloud DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
HAT:

DECREASE TIP:
Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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HAT:
Cast on 56-60 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with with Cloud or 2 threads Air. Work 4 rounds in stockinette st (= rolling edge). Work next round as follows: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Work 1 more round with K over K and P over P. Then continue in stockinette st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 21-22 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4", insert 8-10 markers in the piece, 7-6 sts apart. On next round dec 1 st after every marker - SEE DECREASE TIP (= 8-10 sts dec). Dec like this every other round a total of 3 times, then every round a total of 2 times. On next round K all sts twisted tog two by two = 8-5 sts on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Piece measures approx. 26-27 cm / 10 1/4"-10½" from top and down (includes rolling edge).
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SHAWL:

KNITTING TIP:
Work shawl in garter st with a cable edge along bottom edge. Work this cable edge of the outermost 12 sts. Do not work any edge st on the cable (i.e. work outermost st in A.1 as a normal st in stockinette st from both RS and WS), otherwise the cable will not roll and get the correct bounce.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

MEASURING TIP:
Measure shawl along the straight edge without inc/dec.
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SHAWL:
Worked from side to side. Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with with Cloud or 2 threads Air and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): K 2, K 1 in front and behind in next st = 4 sts on row.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 1, 1 YO, K 3 = 5 sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): K 3, P YO twisted, P 1.
ROW 5 (= RS):K 2, 1 YO, K 3 = 6 sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K 3, P YO twisted, P 2.
ROW 7 (= RS):K 3, 1 YO, K 3 = 7 sts.
ROW 8 (= WS):K 3, P YO twisted, P 3.
ROW 9 (= RS): K 4, 1 YO, K 3 = 8 sts.
ROW 10 (= WS): K 3, P YO twisted, P 4.
ROW 11 (= RS): K 5, 1 YO, K 3 = 9 sts.
ROW 12 (= WS): K 3, P YO twisted, P 5.
ROW 13 (= RS): K 1 in front and behind in each of the first 6 sts, insert 1 marker, K 3 = 15 sts.
ROW 14 (= WS): K 3, marker, P 12.

Continue to work and inc as follows - READ KNITTING TIP AND REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
ROW 1 (= RS): Work pattern according to diagram A.1 over the first 12 sts, work 2 sts in first st after marker and K the rest of row (= 1 st inc).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until marker and A.1 over the last 12 sts.
ROW 3 (= RS): A.1 over the first 12 sts, marker, K the rest of row.
ROW 4 (= WS): K until marker and A.1 over the last 12 sts.
Repeat 1st-4th row (i.e. inc 1 st every 4th row) until there are 56 sts on row. Piece now measures approx. 81 cm / 32'' - READ MEASURING TIP.

Now work short rows to avoid a tight cable over the tip as follows:
* Work 2 rows back and forth over the 12 sts in A.1, work 2 rows back and forth over all sts on row as before but do not inc *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, then work 2 rows back and forth over the 12 sts A.1 again.

Then work and dec as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work pattern according to diagram A.1 over the first 12 sts, K the 2 first sts after marker tog and K the rest of row (= 1 st dec).
ROW 2 (= WS): K until marker and A.1 over the last 12 sts.
ROW 3 (= RS): A.1 over the first 12 sts, marker, K the rest of row.
ROW 4 (= WS): K until marker and A.1 over the last 12 sts.
Repeat 1st-4th row (i.e. dec 1 st every 4th row) until 15 sts remain on row (piece now measures approx. 159 cm / 62½'').

Then work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K all sts in A.1 tog tog 2 by 2, marker, K 3 = 9 sts remain on needle.
ROW 2 (= WS): K 3, P 6.
ROW 3 (= RS): K 4, K 2 tog, K 3 = 8 sts.
ROW 4 (= WS): K 3, P 5.
ROW 5 (= RS):K 3, K 2 tog, K 3 = 7 sts.
ROW 6 (= WS): K 3, P 4.
ROW 7 (= RS):K 2, K 2 tog, K 3 = 6 sts.
ROW 8 (= WS):K 3, P 3.
ROW 9 (= RS): K 1, K 2 tog, K 3 = 5 sts.
ROW 10 (= WS): K 3, P 2.
ROW 11 (= RS): K 2 tog, K 3 = 4 sts.
ROW 12 (= WS): K 4.
ROW 13 (= RS): K 2 tog, K 2.
ROW 14 (= WS): bind off with K.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= slip 6 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 6, K 6 from cable needle

Bibou 12.01.2019 - 14:06:

Quand vous dites de tricoter 2 rangs etc Je fais les 2 premieres ligne du diagramme sans augmentation? 3 fois les deux premieres lignes ou bien je passe au ligne au dessus? 3, 4.. etc puis tricoter 2 rangs etc je n'ai pas compris non plus

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 10:04:

Bonjour Bibou, pour le châle, vous augmentez au 1er rang de A.1 (= RANG 1 (= sur l'endroit): Tricoter le diagramme A.1 sur les 12 premières m, tricoter 2 fois la 1ère m après le marqueur et tricoter les mailles restantes à l'end (= 1 augmentation)., puis tricotez les 3 rangs suivant sans augmentez, en même temps tricotez les 3 rangs suivants de A.1 et continuez ainsi en augmentant 1 m tous les 4 rangs. Bon tricot!

Bibou 12.01.2019 - 14:00:

Je ne comprends pas le même passage que pâquerettes vous lui avez répondu mais je comprends pas Pour éviter que la torsade ne soit trop serrée au niveau de la pointe, tricoter maintenant des rangs raccourcis ainsi: * Tricoter 2 rangs sur les 12 premières m de A.1, 2 rangs sur toutes les mailles comme avant mais ne pas augmenter*, répéter de *-* 3 fois au total, puis tricoter de nouveau 2 rangs sur les 12 m de A.1.

Bibou 09.01.2019 - 23:20:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas arrivée rang 6 pour tricoter le jeté torse à l'envers , dois je continuer de le prendre dans le brin arrière ?

DROPS Design 10.01.2019 kl. 09:51:

Bonjour Bibou, tout à fait, pour tricoter un jeté torse à l'envers, on le tricote dans le brin arrière au lieu du brin avant - Cette vidéo montre comment procéder (les 2 façons, non torse et torse). Bon tricot!

Alves 28.11.2018 - 17:58:

Si je veux faire avec une laine épaisseur 5 comment procéder s'il vous plaît pour avoir la bonne taille ?

DROPS Design 29.11.2018 kl. 08:44:

Bonjour Mme Alves, cet ensemble se tricote avec soit une laine du groupe E comme DROPS Cloud soit avec 2 fils d'une laine du groupe E comme DROPS Air sur la base de 12 m x 16 rangs jersey = 10 x10 cm pour le bonnet et 11 m x 22 rangs point mousse = 10 x 10 cm pour le châle. Si vous n'avez pas cet échantillon, il vous faudra recalculer chaque pièce pour l'adapter à votre tension. Vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Bon tricot!

Jessica 16.09.2018 - 22:49:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, Als Strick Anfängerin muss ich hier Mal nachfragen wie genau ihr das meint mit den verkürzten reihen zur Mitte des Tuches, weil ich das noch nie gemacht habe: 2 R hin und zurück über die 12 M von A.1,..... Wird hier je eine Reihe hin und eine zurück gestrickt? Oder müssen je 2 reihen hin und zurück gestrickt werden, also insgesamt 4 reihen? Danke für eure Hilfe. :)

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 09:46:

Liebe Jessica, ja genau, Sie stricken zuerst 1 Hinreihe über die Maschen von A.1, dann wenden und die Rückreihe über diese Maschen stricken (A.1 wie zuvor weiterstricken), dann 1 Hinreihe über alle Maschen (mit A.1 wie zuvor, aber keine Zunahmen mehr), wenden und die Rückreihe stricken = es sind 4 Reihen insgesamt, diese 4 Reihen stricken Sie noch 2 Mal mehr = 3 Mal insgesamt, dann 2 Reihen (= 1 Hin + 1 Rückreihe) über die Maschen von A.1 stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mari Carmen 11.01.2018 - 06:52:

Buenos días. En el patrón en español creo que hay un error. Cuando llegas al centro, al empezar las vueltas acortadas, pone trabajar 2 vueltas de ida y vuelta sobre los 1 puntos del gráfico, y creo que en vez de 1 deben ser 12. Gracias y saludos.

Anja 05.12.2017 - 10:37:

Das Tuch soll "dünner" werden - das Wort fehlt in meiner Frage irgendwie...

Anja 05.12.2017 - 10:35:

Ich würde dieses Tuch gern mit einem Faden Drops Nepal stricken, sodass es wird, aber an sich dieselben Maße hat. Mein Plan ist, die Maschenzunahmen so lange zu wiederholen, bis, wie in der Anleitung geschrieben, das Tuch 81 cm lang ist und dann ebenso viele Abnahmen zu machen, um wieder auf die angegebenen 15 Maschen zu kommen. Müsste ich dann im Mittelteil mehr verkürzte Reihen stricken, damit sich der Zopf nicht spannt?

DROPS Design 05.12.2017 kl. 11:22:

Liebe Anja, leider können wir nicht jeder unserer Anleitung nach jeder persönnlichen Anfrage anpassen. Gerne kann Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden damit helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

IOLANDA 22.11.2017 - 11:56:

Continuare a lavorare e ad aumentare in questo modo FERRO 1 (= diritto del lavoro): Lavorare il diagramma A.1 sulle prime 12 m, lavorare 2 volte la prima m dopo il segno e lavorare le restanti m a dir (= 1 m aumentata). mi sono persa....scusate potete aiutarmi? esempio il ferro 15/16/17,...ecc grazie

DROPS Design 22.11.2017 kl. 14:41:

Buongiorno Iolanda. Ferro 15: Ci sono 15 maglie. Sulle prime 12 maglie lavora il diag. A1, passa il segno, lavora poi la maglia successiva sia nel filo davanti che in quello dietro (1 maglia aumentata) e poi lavora le altre maglie a diritto = 16 maglie. Ferro 16: lavora 4 m a diritto, passa il segno, A.1 sulle ultime 12 m (lavora queste 12 m a rovescio). Ferro 17: A1 sulle prime 12 m, passa il segno, a diritto le altre 4 m. Ferro 18: come il 16. E così via. Buon lavoro!

IOLANDA 20.11.2017 - 18:53:

Buongiorno, scusate la domanda non dsono molto brava con gli schemi. quando nella spiegazione dite lavorate il diagramma A1 si intende il motivo treccia giusto?in brave scusate ancor aogni quanti ferri bisogna lavorare il diagramma ?grazie

DROPS Design 21.11.2017 kl. 09:41:

Buongiorno Iolanda, il diagramma A.1 è lavorato sulle prime 12 maglie sul diritto del lavoro e sulle ultime 12 maglie dal rovescio del lavoro. I diagrammi si leggono da destra verso sinistra e dal basso verso l'alto. Gli intrecci sono sul 3° e 11° ferro del diagramma. Buon lavoro!

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