DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Mariela Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and vents in the side in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-1260
DROPS design: Pattern no me-090
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600 colour no 26, pistachio

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 24 rows lace pattern according to diagram A.1 = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for edges in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To calculate how often dec/inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 90 sts) minus the band sts (e.g 10 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of dec/inc to be done (e.g. 13) = 6.1. I.e. in this example work approx. every 5th and 6th st tog (when dec) or inc after approx. every 6th st.

BUTTONHOLES:
Cast off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = cast off third and fourth st from edge and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S/M: 8, 18, 28, 38 and 48 cm.
SIZE L: 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 cm.
SIZE XL: 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 cm.
SIZE XXL: 7, 16, 25, 34, 43 and 52 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 9, 18, 27, 36, 45 and 54 cm.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in sections.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 90-102-118-132-144 sts on circular needle 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS while dec 13-13-17-19-19 sts evenly - READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 77-89-101-113-125 sts. P 1 row from WS but K the 2 edge sts in each side of piece. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1A (= 3 sts), work pattern according to diagram A.1B until 6 sts remain (= 11-13-15-17-19 repetitions of 6 sts), work A.1C (= 4 sts) and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 37-38-40-41-42 cm, cast on new sts for sleeves at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 6 sts 4-4-3-3-2 times in total in each side and then 8 sts 1 time in each side = 141-153-153-165-165 sts - NOTE: Work the new sts in pattern, make sure that the pattern fits vertically onwards. Continue pattern as before with 4 edge st in garter st in each side (= sleeve edges). When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm, cast off the middle 31 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue pattern as before with 4 edge sts in garter st towards the side and 1 edge st in garter st towards the neck. AT THE SAME TIME cast off 1 st at beg of next row from neck = 54-60-60-66-66 sts remain on shoulder. Work pattern as before until piece measures 57-59-61-63-65 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, K 1 row from RS while inc 9-9-9-11-11 sts evenly - READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 63-69-69-77-77 sts. K 1 row from WS and loosely cast off with K from RS. Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 51-57-65-71-77 sts on circular needle size 4 and work 2 ridges. K 1 row from RS while dec 7-7-9-9-9 sts evenly (do not dec over the outermost 5 sts towards mid front or the outermost 2 sts towards the side) = 44-50-56-62-68 sts. P 1 row from WS but K the outermost 2 sts towards the side and the outermost 5 sts towards mid front. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, A.1A (= 3 sts),repeat diagram A.1B until 6 sts remain (= 5-6-7-8-9 repetitions of 6 sts), work A.1C (= 4 sts) and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. Remember BUTTONHOLES on band - see explanation above. When piece measures 37-38-40-41-42 cm, cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row towards the side as on back piece = 76-82-82-88-88 sts. Continue pattern with 5 band sts in garter st towards mid front and 4 edge sts in garter st towards the side (= sleeve edge). When piece measures 48-50-50-52-54 cm, slip the outermost 10 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to cast off for neck at the beg of every row from mid front as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 time and 1 st 3 times = 54-60-60-66-66 sts remain on needle. Work until piece measures 57-59-61-63-65 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm, K 1 row from RS while inc 9-9-9-11-11 sts evenly = 63-69-69-77-77 sts. K 1 row from WS and loosely cast off with K from RS.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. NOTE: Do not dec for buttonholes on left band.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge. Sew underarm seams inside cast-on edge and continue seam down along the side but along the side sew in outer loop of edges to avoid a chunky seam - NOTE: Leave approx. 10 cm at the bottom of body in each side for vents.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 106 to 112 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 4 mm. K 1 row from WS, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS. Then loosely cast off with K from RS.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS


symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Lis Mann wrote:

Undskyld, men det forstod jeg ikke et ord af. Vil du ikke venligst skrive til mig, hvordan jeg skal strikke den 3 . Række, så jeg kan komme videre. Venlig hilsen Lis Mann

30.06.2021 - 15:38

country flag Lis Mann wrote:

Mit problem med Mariela cardigan er: Når jeg strikker 1. Mønsterlinie er den ok og maskeantallet passer. Men 3. Mønsterlinie passer ikke over 1. Linke med de 13 tegn og passer slet ikke med de 125 masker som er på pinden . Kan slet ikke få det til at passe. Har set videoen flere gange, men bliver mere forvirret. Så jeg håber jeg kan få en forklaring på mit problem. Venlig hilsen Lis Mann

30.06.2021 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lis, Det lyder til at du ikke får alle masker med i A.1B. Prøv at sætte mærker efter hver A.1B, så du er sikker på at du strikker hver maske i hver rapport. God fornøjelse!

30.06.2021 - 15:01

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno, una mia cliente ha realizzato questo modello ma riferisce che pur avendolo lavato a 30°, a mano, con sapone per lana, senza strizzare e asciugato in orizzontale, la lana si è allargata e deformato il giacchino. Potrei sapere se ha sbagliato qualcosa nel lavaggio o se è normale che la merino cede?

22.01.2018 - 12:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia. Ci dispiace per quanto accaduto alla sua cliente. La merino tende a cedere con il lavaggio. Per il futuro, consigliamo di lavare il campione prima di prendere le misure. Buon lavoro!

22.01.2018 - 14:23

country flag Caroline wrote:

How do you determine what size to make? I can't find definitions of S/M, L etc.

29.06.2017 - 15:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Caroline, you will find at the bottom of the page a measurement chart with all measurments for each size, taken flat from side to side in cm - compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

29.06.2017 - 15:31