DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Venezia Top

Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern in the sides and A-shape, worked top down in ”Belle”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 168-33
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-014
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour no 06, silver

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making a YO.
On next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of YO instead of front) to avoid holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

TOP:
The piece is worked top down. Work first front and back piece separately, back and forth down to armhole, then work in the round.

BACK PIECE:
Work right shoulder as follows:
Cast on 16-17-17-18-20-20 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Belle. Work as follows (1st row = from RS): 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above (= towards the neck), work 10-11-11-12-14-14 sts in stocking st, 3 sts in garter st (= towards armhole). Continue like this until 4 rows in stocking st have been work inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side. On next row inc 1 st inside the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck - READ INCREASE TIP = 17-18-18-19-21-21 sts. Work 1 row from WS and put piece aside.
Work left shoulder as follows:
Cast on and work as right shoulder but reversed. I.e. inc 1 st before the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck on 5th row in stocking st. Work 1 row from WS. Turn and work as before over all sts. At the end of row cast on 35-35-37-37-39-39 new sts for neck and then work the 17-18-18-19-21-21 sts from right shoulder on to needle = 69-71-73-75-81-81 sts. Work the new sts cast on for neck in garter st. When 2 ridges have been worked over these sts, continue in stocking st inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 13-12-12-10-10-7 cm from cast-on edge, inc 1 st inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side for armhole. Repeat inc on every row from RS 2-4-6-9-11-16 more times = 75-81-87-95-105-115 sts. Work 1 row from WS after last inc and put piece aside.

FRONT PIECE:
Work left shoulder as follows:
Cast on 16-17-17-18-20-20 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Belle. Work as follows (1st row = from RS): 3 sts in garter st (= towards neck), work 10-11-11-12-14-14 sts in stocking st, 3 sts in garter st (= towards the left).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue like this, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7-8-7-8-8-9 cm, inc for neck (- see explanation below) and when piece measures 13-12-12-10-10-7 cm inc for armholes the same way as on back piece. NOTE: In size XXXL beg inc for armholes before inc for neck.
INCREASE NECK:
Inc 1 st inside the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck. Repeat inc on every row from RS 4-4-5-5-6-6 more times = 5-5-6-6-7-7 sts inc for neck. When all inc are done, work 1 row from WS. Put piece aside.

Work right shoulder as follows:
Cast on and work as left shoulder but reversed. I.e. inc 1 st before the 3 sts in garter st towards the neck.
When all inc for neck are done, work 1 row from WS. Turn and work as before over all sts. At the end of row cast on 27 new sts in all sizes for neck, then work all sts from left shoulder on to needle. Continue back and forth like this (continue inc for armholes) until 2 ridges have been worked over the new sts for neck.
Continue in stocking st inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side. When all inc for armholes are done, there are 75-81-87-95-105-115 sts on needle. After last inc work 1 row from WS. Turn and work over all sts on front piece, cast on 3-5-7-9-11-13 new sts for armhole, work 75-81-87-95-105-115 sts from back piece on to same circular needle and cast on 3-5-7-9-11-13 new sts for armhole = 156-172-188-208-232-256 sts on round. Beg of round is after the last 3-5-7-9-11-13 new sts cast on.

BODY:
Then work in the round on circular needle. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now continue with pattern as follows: Work 3 sts in garter st, continue in stocking st as before over the next 69-75-81-89-99-109 sts, 9-11-13-15-17-19 sts in garter st, stocking st over the next 69-75-81-89-99-109 sts, 6-8-10-12-14-16 sts in garter st. Continue like this until 2 ridges have been worked over the new sts cast on under armhole. Then work in stocking st until 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts remain before beg of round. This is now beg of round. Now work as follows: Insert a marker, work A.1 (= 10 sts on first round), A.2 (= 11 sts on first round), insert a marker, work in stocking st over the next 57-65-73-83-95-107 sts, insert a marker, A.1, A.2, insert a marker, work in stocking st over the remaining 57-65-73-83-95-107 sts. NOTE: Move markers upwards when working to make it easier to tell the section with lace pattern and stocking st apart. The section in stocking st is constant and inc sts in the section with lace pattern in the sides. Continue pattern like this until entire A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically. There are now 200-216-232-252-276-300 sts on round and piece measures approx. 19 cm in all sizes.
Then repeat A.X vertically AT THE SAME TIME continue inc in diagram as before: I.e. lace pattern in each side inc with 12 sts and there are 2 eyelet rows (1 eyelet row = 1 dec + 1 YO) more in A.1 and A.2 in each side every time A.X is worked 1 time vertically. When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm, there are approx. 320-336-352-376-404-432 sts on round. Work 1 round in stocking st. Then work 2 ridges. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Make sure that to avoid a tight seam.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.09.2016
BODY:...Continue like this until 2 ridges have been worked over the new sts cast on under armhole. Then work in stocking st until 12-13-14-15-16-17 sts remain before beg of round...

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next round K the YO to make hole.


symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 168-33

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Lise-Lotte wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få maskeantallet til at passe når jeg skal gentage ax. På 1. pind er der 17m og på sidste er der 22m i ax Med venlig hilsen Lise-Lotte

18.06.2023 - 14:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lise-Lotte. Ikke tenkt på maskeantallet (maskeantallet stemmer kun første gang når A.X strikkes). Når du skal gjenta A.X i høyden fortsetter du bare mønstret med økningene. mvh DROPS Design

19.06.2023 - 11:05

country flag Agata wrote:

Dzień dobry, Skończyłam tył i przód i jestem w momencie, kiedy mam przerobić przód, dodać oczka na podkrój rękawy, przerobić tył i znów dodać oczka na podkrój rękawu. Problem w tym, że długość całkowita przodu mojej robótki jest o jakieś 4cm krótsza niż długość tyłu. Czy tak ma być, czy to mój błąd? Będę bardzo wdzięczna za pomoc.

15.01.2023 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agato, top jest przerabiany z góry na dół. Przerabiasz najpierw przód i tył oddzielnie, w tę i z powrotem do pokrojów rękawów, a dalej na okrągło. We wzorze jest napisane, że zaczynasz dodawać oczka na podkroje rękawów na tyle i na przodzie na tej samej wysokości, czyli gdy dł. robótki od rzędu nabierania oczek (przodu lub tyłu) wynosi 13-12-12-10-10-7 cm. Oczka na podkroje rękawów na przodzie i na tyle są dodawane tak samo, tak więc obie części robótki powinny mieć taką samą długość jak zostaną dodane. Pozdrawiamy!

16.01.2023 - 18:57

country flag Lisa wrote:

Hej! Förstår inte riktigt hur framstycket ska stickas när vänster axeln ska stickas på. På vänster Axel är ju ökningarna för ärmhålen redan stickade så det stycket är ju några cm längre än höger stycket. Men trots olika längd ska det läggas upp nya maskor och vänster och höger stickas ihop? För det står ju att ökningarna ska fortsätta efter styckena har stickats ihop och de 27 maskor till halsen har lagts upp. Kan ni tydliggöra detta? Tack!

29.04.2022 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisa. Venstre og høyre forstykket strikkes likt (like økninger), men høyre del strikkes speilvendt fra venstre del. Når alle hals økningene er ferdig strikket på venstre forstykke, strikkes det 1 pinne tilbake fra vrangen. Når alle økningene til hals er ferdig strikket på høyre fortykke strikkes det 1 pinne tilbake fra vrangen. Snu høyre forstykke og strikk som før over alle maskene. På slutten av pinnen legges det opp 27 nye masker til hals, deretter strikkes alle maskene fra venstre skulder inn på pinnen. Du vil nå ha venstre forstykke, 27 nye masker og så høyre forstykket på samme pinne. Økningen til ermhull fortsetter. mvh DROPS Design

02.05.2022 - 13:07

country flag Lovisa wrote:

Hej! När man ska öka för ärmhålen på bakstycket, Vart ska ökningen ske? Ska ökningen vara innan de 3 rätmaskorna eller efter mot mitten?

26.04.2022 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lovisa. Ökningen är mot mitten, så du har de rätstickade maskorna längst ut. Mvh DROPS Design

27.04.2022 - 09:42

country flag CORINNE wrote:

Bonjour j'ai tricoté A1 et A2 + 1 fois AX, d'après ce que je comprends il faut continuer en tricotant plusieurs fois AX pour arriver à la bonne dimension est ce bien ça ? excusez moi mais je un peu perdue avec ce modèle merci de votre réponse

01.04.2021 - 08:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Corinne, c'est exact; après avoir tricoté 1 fois A.1 et A.2 en hauteur, vous répétez juste les A.X en hauteur, le nombre de mailles du point ajouré augmente progressivement. Bon tricot!

06.04.2021 - 11:27

country flag Ingrid østerlev wrote:

Jeg har en drops model 45-14 kan ikke få maske og opskrift til at gå op. Starter jeg forkert. Håber at i kan hjælpe. På forhånd tak Ingrid østerlev

25.02.2021 - 09:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingrid, Hvilken størrelse strikker du, hvor mange masker har du, hvor langt er du kommet i opskriften.-....

25.02.2021 - 14:11

country flag Bonnie Cary wrote:

Just getting started on this pattern. Back piece done through ridges for neck. Now continue til piece measures x amount of inches from cast on edge. Which edge? Shoulder or neckline?

01.08.2020 - 23:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Bonnie, The measurements are from the neckline. Happy knitting!

03.08.2020 - 07:18

country flag Sara wrote:

Hello, Could you please clarify how to repeat A.X?

22.04.2020 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sara, continue lace pattern as before repeating the A.X part of the diagrams, you will just have more stitches from 2nd time because of the increases on the middle of each side. the lace patterns should always be worked so that the lace are worked diagonally as before, increasing at the same time as shown in the diagram. Happy knitting!

22.04.2020 - 16:35

country flag Lorena wrote:

Buongiorno. Per favore, avrei bisogno di una conferma. Le misure riportate sotto al disegno del modello si intendono riferite solo ad un pannello (e sono quindi da raddoppiare) ? Grazie e saluti. Lò

14.06.2019 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lorena. Sì le misure sono riferite ad un solo pannello. Buon lavoro!

14.06.2019 - 20:46

country flag Monica wrote:

Buongiorno, sto cercando di realizzare il modello e mi trovo sul davanti, non ho capito quando fare gli aumenti per gli scalfi, è corretto farli dopo l avvio delle 27 m per il collo e quindi l unione delle due parti? Grazie, saluti.

17.02.2019 - 09:06

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica, per il davanti deve lavorare gli aumenti per lo scalfo quando il lavoro misura 13-12-12-10-10-7 cm a seconda della taglia che sta lavorando, tranne per la taglia XXXL, per cui gli aumenti iniziano prima degli aumenti per il collo. Per gli aumenti seguire le istruzioni del dietro. Buon lavoro!

17.02.2019 - 09:33