DROPS / 170 / 31

Daniella by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with pockets and skirt with lace and fan pattern, worked top down in ”Alpaca”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-729
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
JACKET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour no 2110, wheat

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 6-6-7-7-8-8 pieces

SKIRT:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour no 2110, wheat

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 4 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.15.

CROCHET INFO:
On every tr row replace first tr with 3 ch.
On every dc row replace first dc with 1 ch.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 5 tr remain before markers in the side, work the next 2 tr tog, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work the next 2 tr tog, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work the next 2 tog (= 3 tr dec at each marker = 6 tr dec in total).

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 4 tr remain before markers in the side, work 2 tr in next tr, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work 2 tr in next tr, work 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, work 2 tr in next tr (= 3 tr in at each marker = 6 tr inc in total).
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth.

BACK PIECE:
RIGHT SHOULDER:
Work 27-31-35-35-39-42 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca. Work next row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 tr in each of the next 3-2-1-1-0-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 21-24-27-27-30-33 tr. Then work next row from RS as follows: Work A.4a over the first 4 tr, repeat A.5a over the next 15-18-21-21-24-27 tr (= 5-6-7-7-8-9 times in total in width), A.6a over the last 2 tr. When A.4a and A.6a have been worked 1 time vertically (= last row is from WS). Put piece aside and work left shoulder. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work 27-31-35-35-39-42 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca. Work next row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 3-2-1-1-0-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 21-24-27-27-30-33 tr. Then work next row from RS as follows: Work A.1a over the first 2 tr, repeat A.2a over the next 15-18-21-21-24-27 tr (= 5-6-7-7-8-9 times in total in width), A.3a over the last 4 tr. When A.1a to A.3a have been worked 1 time vertically, work left shoulder tog with right shoulder from RS as follows:

BACK PIECE:
SIZE S-M:
Work A.1b over the first 2 tr on left shoulder, repeat A.2b over the next 18-21 tr, 1 tr in last tr on left shoulder, work 39-39 ch for neck, work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr on right shoulder, repeat A.2b over the next 18-21 tr and 1 tr in last tr over right shoulder as before = 42-48 tr and 39-39 ch on row. On next row work pattern as before but work 1 tr in every ch = 81-87 tr.

SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work A.1a over the first 2 tr on left shoulder, repeat A.2a over the next 24-24-27-30 tr, 1 tr in last tr on left shoulder, work 39-45-45-45 ch for neck, work 1 tr in first tr on right shoulder, repeat A.5a over the next 24-24-27-30 tr and A.6a over the last 2 tr on right shoulder as before = 54-54-60-66 tr and 39-45-45-45 ch on row. On next row work pattern as before but work 1 tr in every ch = 93-99-105-111 tr. When A.1a and A.6a have been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from RS: Work 1 tr in each of the first 2 tr, repeat A.2b until 1 tr remains, finish with 1 tr in last tr. Repeat A.2b 1-1-2-2 times in total.

ALL SIZES:
= 81-87-93-99-105-111 tr. Work as follows from RS: A.7b over the first 2 tr, repeat A.8b over the next 72-78-84-90-96-102 tr (= 12-13-14-15-16-17 times in total in width), finish with A.9b over the last 7 tr. When A.7b to A.9b have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.7 over A.7b, A.8 over A.8b and A.9 over A.9b vertically.

SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
When piece measures 17-18-16-16 cm, inc 1 tr in each side of piece by working 2 tr in first and last tr (= 2 tr inc). Repeat inc on every row 1-1-5-6 more times (= 4-4-12-14 tr inc in total). Work the inc tr into pattern. Work sts that do not fit pattern as A.7. After inc piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22 cm.

ALL SIZES:
When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm – adjust so that next row is from RS and is a row with tr (in diagram A.8), fasten off. Put piece aside and work front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 27-31-35-35-39-42 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca. Work next row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 3-2-1-1-0-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 21-24-27-27-30-33 tr. Then work next row from RS as follows: Work A.1a over the first 2 tr, repeat A.2a over the next 15-18-21-21-24-27 tr (= 5-6-7-7-8-9 times in total in width), A.3a over the last 4 tr. Repeat A.1a to A.3a vertically 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in total. Then work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a. Repeat A.1b to A.3b vertically 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total. Work A.1c over A.1b, A.2c over A.2b and A.3c over A.3b. Cut and fasten the yarn when 1 row remains in diagram. Work 14-17-14-20-17-20 loose ch in hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca, work last row of diagram A.3c to A.1c from WS = 29-32-35-35-38-41 tr and 14-17-14-20-17-20 ch.

On next row work as follows from RS: Work A.7 over the first 2 tr, repeat A.8 over the next 30-36-36-42-42-48 tr/ch (= 5-6-6-7-7-8 times in total in width), A.9 over the next 7 ch, finish with 1 tr in each of the last 4 ch (= band). NOTE: Work band as A.7, i.e. on rows with dc work band in dc and on rows with tr work band in tr.

SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
When piece measures 17-18-16-16 cm, inc 1 tr in the side of piece by working 2 tr in first tr from RS and last tr from WS (= 1 tr inc per row). Repeat inc on every row 1-1-5-6 more times (= 2-2-6-7 tr inc in total). Work the inc tr into pattern. Work sts that do not fit pattern as A.7. After inc piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22 cm.

ALL SIZES:
Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm, adjust pattern according to back piece, fasten off. Put piece aside and work left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work 27-31-35-35-39-42 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca. Work next row as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 3-2-1-1-0-3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 21-24-27-27-30-33 tr. Then work next row from RS as follows: Work A.4a over the first 4 tr, repeat A.5a over the next 15-18-21-21-24-27 tr (= 5-6-7-7-8-9 times in total in width), A.6a over the last 2 tr. Repeat A.4a to A.6a vertically 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in total. Then work A.4b over A.4a, A.5b over A.5a and A.6b over A.6a. Repeat A.4b to A.6b vertically 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in total. Work A.4c over A.4b, A.5c over A.5b and A.6c over A.6b.

On last row in diagram A.4c to A.6c work 17-20-17-23-20-23 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) at the end of row from WS = 29-32-35-35-38-41 tr and 17-20-17-23-20-23 ch.

On next row work as follows from RS: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch (= band), A.7 over the next 2 ch, repeat A.8 over the next 30-36-36-42-42-48 ch/tr (= 5-6-6-7-7-8 times in total in width), finish with A.9 over the last 7 tr. Continue pattern like this. NOTE: Work band as A.7, i.e. on rows with dc work band in dc and on rows with tr work band in tr.

SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
When piece measures 17-18-16-16 cm (adjust according to back piece), inc 1 tr in the side of piece by working 2 tr in first tr from WS and last tr from RS (= 1 tr inc per row). Repeat inc on every row 1-1-5-6 more times (= 2-2-6-7 tr inc in total). Work the inc tr into pattern. Work sts that do not fit pattern as A.7. After inc piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22 cm.

ALL SIZES:
When piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm, adjust pattern according to back piece, fasten off.

BODY:
Now work the parts tog as follows from RS: Work from left front piece, over back piece and then over right front piece. Work 1 tr in each of the first 4 tr (= left band), work A.7-A.9 over left front piece as before, work 9-9-11-11-15-16 loose ch for armhole (insert a marker thread in the middle of these new sts = under sleeve), work A.7-A.9 over back piece as before, work 9-9-11-11-15-16 loose ch for armhole (insert a marker thread in the middle of these new sts = under sleeve), work A.7-A.9 over right front piece as before, work 1 tr in each of the last 4 tr (= right band) = 167-185-199-217-239-261 tr and 9-9-11-11-15-16 ch in each side of piece (= 185-203-221-239-269-293 sts in total).

Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Leave marker in piece, move marker threads when working.
Work next row as follows from WS: Work 1 tr/dc in each of the first 4 tr/dc (= right band), A.9 over the next 7 tr, repeat A.8 over the next 168-186-204-222-252-276 tr/ch (= 28-31-34-37-42-46 times in total in width), A.7 over the next 2 ch, 1 tr/dc in each of the 4 tr/dc (= left band). NOTE: Work bands as A.7 until finished measurements, i.e. on rows with dc work band in dc and on rows with tr work band in tr. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 4 cm, adjust so that next row is with tr, dec 3 tr at each marker thread in the side – READ DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every 6 cm 2 more times = 167-185-203-221-251-275 tr on row. NOTE: Every time you dec, repeat A.8 1 time less in width. When piece measures 18 cm from marker, adjust so that next row is a row with tr, inc 3 tr at each marker thread – READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc every 3 cm 3 more times = 191-209-227-245-275-299 tr. NOTE: Every time you inc, repeat A.8 1 more time in width. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm from marker, adjust so that last row is a row with tr from WS, work as follows on next row from RS: Work band as before over the first 4 band sts, A.7a over the next 2 tr, repeat A.8a over the next 174-192-210-228-258-282 tr (= 29-32-35-38-43-47 times in total in width), A.9a over the next 7 tr, work over the 4 band sts as before. Fasten off when A.7a to A.9a have been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm in total.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked top down. Work 21-28-31-38-42-45 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca. Work 2 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 1-1-2-2-1-2 tr, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* 1-2-2-3-4-4 more times, 1 tr in each of the next 1-1-3-3-1-3 tr, 2 tr in last tr = 18-24-27-33-36-39 tr. Then work as follows from RS: Work A.10 over the first 3 tr, repeat A.11 over the next 12-18-21-27-30-33 tr (= 4-6-7-9-10-11 times in total in width), finish with A.12 over the last 3 tr. When A.10 to A.12 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 30-36-39-45-48-51 tr on last row. Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.10 over the first 3 tr, repeat A.11 over the next 24-30-33-39-42-45 tr (= 8-10-11-13-14-15 times in total in width), finish with A.11 over the last 3 tr. When A.10 to A.12 have been worked 1 more time vertically, there are 42-48-51-57-60-63 tr on last row.

Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.13 over the first 3 tr, repeat A.14 over the next 36-42-45-51-54-57 tr (= 12-14-15-17-18-19 times in total in width), finish with A.15 over the last 3 tr. When A.13 to A.15 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 54-60-63-69-72-75 tr on last row. Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.12 over the first 3 tr, repeat A.14 over the next 48-54-57-63-66-69 tr (= 16-18-19-21-22-23 times in total in width), finish with A.15 over the last 3 tr. When last row of A.13 to A.15 remain, cut the yarn. Work 5-5-6-6-8-8 loose ch. Work from RS last row of A.15, repeat last row of A.14 16-18-19-21-22-23 times in total in width AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-0-1-1-0-2 tr evenly, work last row of A.13, finish by working 4-4-5-5-7-8 ch at the end of row = 66-72-76-82-84-89 tr and 9-9-11-11-15-16 ch (= 75-81-87-93-99-105 sts in total).

Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.7 over the first 2 ch, repeat A.8 over the next 66-72-78-84-90-96 ch/tr (= 11-12-13-14-15-16 times in total in width), finish with A.9 over the last 7 tr/ch. Insert 1 marker in the piece. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve. Then work piece back and forth but work every row tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch on row. Turn piece. When piece measures 4 cm, adjust so that next row is with tr, dec 6 tr evenly. Repeat dec every 9-7-5-5-4½-4 cm 3-4-5-5-6-7 more times = 51-51-51-57-57-57 tr. NOTE: Every time you dec, repeat A.8 1 time less in width. When piece measures 34 cm, adjust so that next row is with tr, dec 3 tr evenly = 48-48-48-54-54-54 tr. Then repeat A.8a 8-8-8-9-9-9 times in total in width. Work A.8a 3 times in total vertically. Fasten off when piece measures 56 cm in total, finish neatly according to pattern. Work another sleeve the same way.

POCKETS:
Cast on 30 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca. Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* = 24 tr. Work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures approx. 9 cm. Work 1 row with * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip 1 cm *, repeat from *-*, adjust to finish with 1 dc in last tr.
Fasten off. Work another pocket the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves in outer loops of edge sts. Sew pockets in the middle of front piece approx. 8 cm up from edge. Fasten buttons on left front piece, fasten the top button approx. 2 cm from neck edge, then fasten them approx. 9-9-8-8-8-8 cm apart. Button between 2nd and 3rd tr on band.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck as follows (beg mid front): Work 1 dc in first tr, * 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck, make sure to avoid a tight edge, adjust to finish with 1 dc in last tr. Fasten off.
----------------------------------------------------------

SKIRT:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.16 and A.17. Diagram A.17 shows how every round beg and ends when working A.16 in the round.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 1 ch.
Beg every round with tr with 3 ch (= first tr) and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.
Beg every round with dc with 1 ch (replace first dc) and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 tr by working 2 tr in/around same st.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how often inc should be done on row, use the total no of sts (e.g. 228 tr) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 12) = 18.33. I.e. in this example work 2 tr in approx. 18th tr.
----------------------------------------------------------

SKIRT:
Work back and forth, top down to after vent in the side, then work in the round.

Work 176-190-204-232-267-302 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm with Alpaca. Work first row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* = 150-162-174-198-228-258 tr. Then work back and forth with 1 tr in every tr - READ CROCHET INFO. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When 6-6-4-4-6-6 rows have been worked vertically, insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: First marker after 13-14-15-17-19-21 tr, then there should be 25-27-29-33-38-43 tr between every marker, there will be 12-13-14-16-19-22 tr after last marker at the end of row. Let markers follow in piece. On next row inc 1 tr before all markers (= 6 tr inc) – READ INCREASE TIP-1! Repeat inc every other row/round 12-12-14-14-14-14 more times.
- NOTE: Inc alternately before and after markers = 228-240-264-288-318-348 tr. AT THE SAME TIME when 12 rows in total have been worked vertically, end the vent in the side and continue piece in the round, beg round in the side. When piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, work A.16 (= 6 tr) 38-40-44-48-53-58 times in total on round. On 5th, 10th and 14th round in A.16 (= tr round) inc 12 tr evenly on each round – READ INCREASE TIP-2 = 264-276-300-324-354-384 tr. For every inc, work A.16 2 times more in width. When A.16 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm. Repeat A.16 and inc 1 more time = 300-312-336-360-390-420 tr. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm in total, adjust so that last round is a round with tr, work A.16a 50-52-56-60-65-70 times in total in width. Fasten off when A.16a has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Along one side of the opening on front piece work buttonhole loops as follows (beg at the bottom): 2 dc in first tr, 3 ch, skip 1 tr, * work 2 dc in each of the next 2 tr, 3 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total and finish with 2 dc in last tr at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 dc in every dc and 3 dc in every ch-space.

BUTTON BAND:
Along the other side of the opening work 5 rows with dc back and forth (on first row work 2 dc in every tr = 24 dc), cut the yarn. Sew the buttons on to the button band.

Diagram

= ch
= dc in st
= dc between 2 tr
= dc around ch
= tr in st
= tr around ch
= first row is not worked, it has already been worked, it only shows how next row should be worked in st
= crochet direction
= increase round
= sl st





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Anna 28.11.2019 - 21:28:

Beste, ik heb geen idee wat ik met de lossen in het armsgat moet doen. Sla ik deze gewoon over als ik het patroon haak? Veel dank vast.

Germana 27.09.2017 - 12:08:

Grazie per la risposta ma ho ancora un problema ...quando finisco la spalla sx e faccio le catenella e poi mi aggancio alla spalla dx mi dice che dovrei avere in tutto 54 ma e 39 catenella ma io in realtà ne ho 38 di ma...

DROPS Design 27.09.2017 kl. 12:21:

Buongiorno Germana, lei deve avere 27 maglie su ciascuna spalla prima dell'unione. Deve lavorare la spalla sinistra come indicato sotto "Dietro", avviare 39 catenelle e lavorare la spalla destra come indicato: otterrà quindi 54 m.a e 39 catenelle. Buon lavoro!

Germana 26.09.2017 - 18:09:

Buongiorno e aiutoooo...non riesco a capire nel cardigan come si uniscono i due pezzi delle spalle sigh...seguendo le istruzioni mi trovo che sulla spalla sinistra ho 2 giri in più.....quando devo fare le 39 catenella....aiutoooo

DROPS Design 27.09.2017 kl. 09:15:

Buongiorno Germana. Il numero di righe sulle spalle dovrebbe essere lo stesso: catenella di base; prima riga di maglie alte come indicato, poi le due righe dei diagrammi. Su entrambe le spalle l’ultima riga è sul rovescio del lavoro. Unisce adesso le due spalle: lavora la spalla sinistra (seguendo i diagrammi indicati), avvia le 39 cat e poi prosegue con la spalla destra. Ci riscriva se ancora in difficoltà. Buon lavoro!

Doris 28.07.2017 - 03:30:

I'm crocheting the jacket, but I'm having a lot of trouble doing the back. I can't get the number of stitches right, no matter how many times I try. Doing large size, I can't get 105 stitches. I get 93 every time. Please help. Love the pattern, but I'm real frustrated

DROPS Design 28.07.2017 kl. 08:41:

Dear Doris, under Back piece, the number of sts under "SIZE L-XL-XXL-XXXL:" is 93 sts in size L, so that you are doing right - 105 sts applies to size XXL. Happy crocheting!

Tracey Down 16.05.2017 - 18:00:

I am working on the 170-31 pattern. I do not understand two of the symbols. The symbol that looks like a V with a dash in between - please explain what it means - i.e. is it an increase? What does the dash mean? Also the symbol that is a vertical line with a dot near the top - what does this mean? I have searched the internet for these symbols and they are not referenced as standard crochet symbols anywhere. Thank you for your help.

DROPS Design 17.05.2017 kl. 08:31:

Dear Mrs Down, do you mean the symbole used on 2nd row in A.2 (= the one with an arrow)? then it is 1 dc, 1 ch (= dash), 1 dc worked in the same dc. Happy crocheting!

DEB 11.04.2016 - 07:18:

I am crocheting the skirt and the instructions say to use A.16 but there is no A.16 on the pattern charts. Help, please!

DROPS Design 11.04.2016 kl. 08:42:

Dear DEB, A.16, A.17 are to the right of A.7 above instead of next to A.15

Luis Berrios 06.02.2016 - 20:23:

Set blusa y Falda lindisimo

Maria Luiza Costa Nery 31.01.2016 - 19:51:

Lovely pattern. I wish I could print/download it even though it hasn't been named yet.

Eugenia Bordignon 30.01.2016 - 16:16:

Molto, molto raffinato!

Eugenia Bordignon 30.01.2016 - 16:13:

Desidero avere un completo di tale raffinatezza. Farlo sarà un obbligo per me stessa!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 170-31

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.