DROPS 167-27
DROPS design: Pattern no n-178
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Length on the middle: approx. 88 cm / 34½'' Width: approx. 176 cm / 70''
Materials:
DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
250 g color no 17, light beige
150 g color no 24, heather
150 g color no 28, light pink
100 g color no 02, off white

NOTE: Shawl worked with one color = 550 g of Cotton Viscose.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.19.

CROCHET INFO:
At beg of every row with dc work ch 5, ch do not replace first dc.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same st.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth from the top and down on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Cotton Viscose - READ CROCHET INFO.

Work diagram A.1 as follows:
ROW 1 (= from WS): Work with off white. Work ch 4, 4 dc in 4th ch from hook, 4 ch (= tip), finish with 4 dc in same ch = 8 dc with 4 ch between.
ROW 2: (= from RS): Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 3 dc in last dc = 16 dc and 4 ch (= tip).
ROW 3: Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 3 dc in last dc = 18 dc, 6 ch and 4 ch (= tip).
ROW 4: Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, * 1 dc around next ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, * 1 dc around next ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 3 dc in last dc = 34 dc and 4 ch (= tip). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Work diagram A.2, A.3 (= 4 times), A.4, A.3 (= 4 times), A.5 as follows:
ROW 5 (= from WS): Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in every dc until tip, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, 1 dc in every dc until 1 dc remains, work 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 6 (from RS): Work 3 dc in first dc, ch 1, skip 2 dc, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in next dc, * skip 2 dc, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in next dc *, repeat from *-* until 2 dc remain before tip, ch 1, skip 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, ch 1, skip 2 dc, * (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in next dc, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc remains, ch 1, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 7: (= from WS): Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 1 dc around next ch-space, 3 dc around every ch until (1 ch, 2 dc) remain before tip, 1 dc around ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 1 dc around next ch, 3 dc around every ch until (1 ch, 3 dc) remain, 1 dc around ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 3 dc in last dc = 29 dc on each side of tip (first time repetition is worked).

Work diagram A.6, A.7 (= 8 times), A.8, A.7 (= 8 times), A.9 as follows:
ROW 8 (from RS): Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, * 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc remain before tip, ch 2, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, ch 1, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc remains, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 9 (= from WS): Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 2 dc around next ch-space, 3 dc around every ch-space until 1 ch and 2 dc remain before tip, 2 dc around ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc around next ch, 2 dc around next ch-space, 3 dc around every ch-space until 4 dc remain, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 3 dc in last dc = 38 dc on each side of tip (first time repetition is worked).

Work diagram A.10, A.11 (= 11 times), A.12, A.13 (= 11 times), A.14 as follows:
ROW 10 (from RS): Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, skip 1 dc, * 3 dc in next dc, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc remains before tip, 1 dc in next dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, 1 dc in next dc, * skip 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until 4 dc remain, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 11 (= from WS): Work 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 4, 1 dc before first dc-group (i.e. between 2 sts), * ch 4, 1 dc before next dc-group *, repeat from *-* until 3 dc remain before tip, ch 4, 1 dc before next dc, ch 4, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, ch 4, skip 3 dc, * 1 dc before next dc-group, 4 ch *, repeat from *-* until (1 dc-group, 5 dc) remain, work 1 dc between dc-group and next dc, ch 4, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 12: Work 3 dc in first dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 2, 1 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 2 dc remain before tip, ch 2, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, * 1 dc around next ch-space, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until 4 dc remain, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 13: 3 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 3 dc around next ch, 3 dc around next ch-space, 4 dc around next ch-space, 3 dc around every ch-space until (1 ch-space, 1 dc, 1 ch-space, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) remain before tip, work 4 dc around each of the 2 ch-spaces, 3 dc around ch, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc around next ch, 4 dc around each of the next 2 ch-spaces, 3 dc around every ch-space until (2 ch-spaces, ch 1, 4 dc) remain, work 4 dc around next ch-space, 3 dc around next ch-space, 3 dc around next ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 3 dc in last dc = 61 dc on each side of tip (first time repetition is worked). Fasten off.

Work diagram A.15, A.16 (= 7 times), A.17, A.18 (= 7 times), A.19 as follows:
ROW 14 (from RS): Work with light beige. Work 3 dc in first dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, * ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until 2 dc remain before tip, ch 3, skip 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, ch 3, skip 2 dc, * 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip 3 dc *, repeat from *-* until 3 dc remain, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 15 (= from WS): Work 3 dc in first dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, * ch 2, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* until 2 dc remain before tip, ch 2, (2 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, ch 2, skip 1 dc, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next dc, ch 2, * 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next dc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until (1 sc, 1 ch-space, 3 dc) remain, 1 dc in next sc, ch 2, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 16: Work 3 dc in first dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, skip 1 ch-space, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) around next ch-space, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in next dc, * skip 1 ch-space, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) around next ch-space, skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc remains before tip, ch 3, skip 1 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, ch 3, skip 1 dc, * 1 sc in next dc, skip 1 ch-space, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) around next ch-space, skip 1 ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 3 dc remain, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 17: Work 3 dc in first dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next sc, ch 3, 1 dc around next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next sc, * ch 3, 1 dc around next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* until (1 ch-space, 2 dc) remain before tip, ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, skip 1 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) around tip, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, * 1 dc in next sc, ch 3, 1 dc around next ch-space, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* until (1 sc, 1 ch-space, 3 dc) remain, 1 dc in next sc, ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, skip 1 dc, 3 dc in last dc.
ROW 18: Work 3 dc in first dc, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, * 2 dc around next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, * 3 dc around next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc around next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until (3 ch-space, 5 dc) before tip, * 2 dc around next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, 3 dc around next ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc around tip), 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, 3 dc around next ch-space, * 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, * 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc around next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until (3 ch-spaces, 7 dc) remain, * 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, 1 dc in next dc, skip 2 dc, 3 dc in last dc = 83 dc on each side of tip (first time repetition is worked). Fasten off.
Piece measures approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' in crochet direction.

Continue to work as follows with heather:
Repeat 5th-7th row = 95 dc on each side of tip on last row.
Repeat 8th-9th row = 104 dc on each side of tip on last row.
Repeat 10th-13th row - AT THE SAME TIME on last row dec 2 dc evenly over repetitions with A.11 - READ DECREASE TIP - and dec 2 dc evenly over repetitions with A.13 = 125 dc on each side of tip on last row. Cut the yarn, fasten and change to light beige.
Repeat 14th-18th row AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 dc evenly before tip - READ INCREASE TIP - and inc 2 dc evenly after tip = 149 dc on each side of tip.
Piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11'' in crochet direction.

Continue to work as follows:
Repeat 14th-18th row (NOTE: First row beg from WS) - AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 dc evenly before tip and 2 dc evenly after tip = 173 dc on each side of tip. Cut the yarn, fasten and change to off white.
Repeat 14th-18th row AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 dc evenly before tip and inc 2 dc evenly after tip = 197 dc on each side of tip. Cut the yarn, fasten and change to light pink.

Continue to work as follows:
Repeat 5th-7th row = 209 dc on each side of tip on last row.
Repeat 8th-9th row = 218 dc on each side of tip on last row.
Repeat 10th-13th row - AT THE SAME TIME on last row dec 4 dc evenly over repetitions with A.11 and dec 4 dc evenly over repetitions with A.13 = 237 dc on each side of tip on last row. Cut the yarn, fasten and change to heather.
Repeat 14th-18th row AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 dc evenly before tip and inc 2 dc evenly after tip = 261 dc on each side of tip. Cut the yarn, fasten and change to light beige.
Piece measures approx. 48 cm / 19'' in crochet direction.

Continue to work as follows:
Repeat 14th-18th row AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 dc evenly before tip and inc 2 dc evenly after tip = 285 dc on each side of tip on last row.
Repeat 14th-18th row (NOTE: First row beg from WS) - AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 dc evenly before tip and 2 dc evenly after tip = 309 dc on each side of tip on last row. Cut the yarn and fasten. Piece measures approx. 56 cm / 22'' in crochet direction and approx. 88 cm / 34½'' along tip.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 23.06.2016
Shawl: ... Continue to work as follows:
Repeat 14th-18th row (NOTE: First row beg from WS) - AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 dc evenly before tip and 2 dc evenly after tip = 173 dc on each side of tip. Cut the yarn, fasten and change to off white.
Repeat 14th-18th row AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 2 dc evenly before tip and inc 2 dc evenly after tip = 197 dc on each side of tip. Cut the yarn, fasten and change to light pink.
Updated online: 07.07.2017
Continue to work as follows:
Repeat 5th-7th row = 209 dc on each side of tip on last row.
Repeat 8th-9th row = 218 dc on each side of tip on last row.
Shawl: Repeat 10th-13th row - AT THE SAME TIME on last row dec 4 dc evenly over repetitions with A.11 and dec 4 dc evenly over repetitions with A.13 = 237 dc on each side of tip on last row.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc in st
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around ch/ch-space
symbols = dc between 2 dc
symbols = last row on previous diagram, this row has already been worked
symbols = 4 ch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Sylvie Habran wrote:

Le modèle est truffé d'erreurs

22.12.2023 - 12:02

country flag Melcitron wrote:

Hi, I don’t understand when you say ’’repeat line 10-13 and in the same in the last do an increase/decrease tip’’. Does it mean we have to do the increase tip only only in line 13 or also for line s10,11,12 and 13?

03.10.2022 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Melcitron, This means that you decrease 4 stitches on the 13th row when you repeat rows 10 - 13, and only over the stitches in A.11 . Happy crafting!

04.10.2022 - 06:55

country flag Janni wrote:

Hej Skal man begynde med 5 luftmasker i hver række

13.09.2021 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

HeiJanni. På begynnelsen av hver rad med STAVER hekles det 5 luftmasker. Luftmaskene erstatter ikke første stav. mvh DROPS design

20.09.2021 - 12:47

country flag Alejandra wrote:

Buenas, Me gustaría saber si cuando pone A2,A3 (=4 veces)etc, significa que tengo que repetir las hileras 5-7 cuatro veces en ese momento o si se van a repetir 4 veces a lo largo del chal... y si se repiten seguidas sería 5-6-7-5-6-7-5-6-7-5-6-7. Gracias

14.05.2020 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Alejandra! Comienzas con A2 (vuelta 5), entonces A3 (=4 veces) significa que tienes que repetir vuelta 5 de esto diagrama 4 veces (uno después del otro), etc. Como leer los diagramas de ganchillo encontraras AQUI. Buen trabajo!

22.11.2020 - 20:30

country flag Stefaniae wrote:

Buongiorno, vorrei un chiarimento sulla RIGA 15, si dice fino a quando rimangono 2 m.a prima della punta, 2 cat, (2 m.b, 2 cat, 1 m.b) nella m.a successiva, 2 cat, saltare 1 m.a, punta, 2 cat, saltare 1 m.a, (1 m.b, 2 cat, 1 m.b) nella m.a successiva. Perchè il numero di maglie basse nella penultima maglia alta prima e dopo la punta non è lo stesso? grazie

11.04.2020 - 15:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Stefania. Segnaleremo l'errore. In entrambe le parentesi le maglie da lavorare sono (1 m.b, 2 cat, 1 m.b). La ringraziamo della segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

14.04.2020 - 09:53

country flag Pepa wrote:

Cuando dice repetir las hileras al mismo tiempo, ¿Qué quiere decir, que en la misma hilera se mezclan dos? Y cuando pone repetir las hileras 7-9. Son sólo la 7 y la 9 o 7, 8 y 9? Gracias por su atención.

07.01.2019 - 23:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Pepa. Si pone repetir las filas 7-9 = trabajar las filas 7,8,9. Cuando pone, por ejemplo, "Repetir las hileras 10-13 – AL MISMO TIEMPO, en la última hilera, disminuir 4 p.a. distribuidos...", quiere decir que, en la fila 13, aparte de trabajar el dibujo como antes, disminuir 4 p.a. trabajando 2 p.a. juntos.

03.02.2019 - 19:41

country flag Lilie wrote:

On row 7, you're supposed to wind up with 29 sts, including the first repeat pattern stitch (?), on one half of the pattern. Row 7 instructions: It says "3 dbl around every ch until 1 ch 2dc remain." Every ch sp? There are chs between sts, chs between spcs. The number doesn't work. Checked row 6, and it is correct. Thank you for your help. Lilie Allen

24.06.2018 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lilie, you work 3 dc around every chain in A.3 (= around the chain between 2 dc worked in the same st on previous row) until 1 ch and 2 dc remain before the middle ch-space. See also diagrams to line up all sts. Happy crocheting!

25.06.2018 - 09:09

country flag Fagel wrote:

I found the problem, I think. It is in your instructions for row 9: the beginning of the row has 2 dc in the first chain space but the end of the row tells us to do 3 dc until we get to the last shell. That is where my increase of one stitch took place on one side of row 9 and threw the next rows off. It would be helpful if you would give the dc count at the end of each row, instead of after every several. And it would help if I would actually force myself to stop and count! ;)

07.04.2018 - 13:51

country flag Fagel wrote:

Sorry. But I am having trouble. All went well until row 14 as I approached the tip: after the last ch 3, sc I have 5 dc before the tip, not two. Maybe my problem was earlier as I seem to have 64 not 61 dc in row 13. Ugh.

07.04.2018 - 02:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fagel, make sure the previous rows are correct, if your number of sts is not right at the end of row 13, row 14 and next ones will not be right. You can check the previous rows from diagram as well as from written pattern. Happy crocheting!

09.04.2018 - 09:28

country flag Anna wrote:

Oeps zie het nu eindelijk zelf. Heb ten onrechte aangenomen dat het nummer van het TELpatroon gelijk is aan het nummer van de toeren. Probleem opgelost 😃

15.03.2018 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Anna, Fijn dat je eruit gekomen bent en dankjewel voor de terugkoppeling.

19.03.2018 - 08:11