DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Angelica

Knitted DROPS poncho with lace pattern and vent at the front in ”Belle”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 170-25
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-018
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
600-700-800 g color no 01, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
ACCESSORIES: Wooden beads - 10 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. The diagrams show all rounds/rows in pattern seen from RS.
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PONCHO:
Worked top down, first back and forth on circular needle, then in the round on circular needle. This is done to get a vent mid front.
Cast on 119 sts on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Belle. Work A.1 over all sts, on round where K 2 tog and YOs are worked, finish with K 1. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: A.2 (= 8 sts), * A.4 (= 2 sts), A.5 (= 8 sts), A.6 (= 3 sts), A.3 (= 17 sts) *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, A.4, A.5, A.6, A.7 (= 8 sts). Every time A.4 to A.6 have been worked 1 time vertically, work 2 repetitions more of A.5 between A.4 and A.6. Continue this pattern back and forth until 2 repetitions of A.2/A.7 have been worked vertically. Cut the yarn. Now work in the round over all sts but beg round before the 8 sts in A.7. Work A.3 over A.2/A.7, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 st between A.2 and A.7 (= middle st in A.3). Continue this pattern upwards, switch to a longer circular needle when needed. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.4 to A.6 have been worked 6-7-8 times vertically (there are now 504-568-632 sts on round), continue as follows: * Work A.9 (= 17 sts) over A.3, work A.8 (= 16 sts) over the next 109-125-141 sts, AT THE SAME TIME on first round in A.8 inc 3 sts evenly over the 109-125-141 sts (= 7-8-9 repetitions of A.8) *, repeat from *-* 3 more times = 516-580-644 sts. When A.8/A.9 have been worked one time vertically, P 1 round over all sts. Bind off. Piece now measures approx. 52-57-63 cm / 20½"-22½"-24 3/4" mid front.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 lengths of 3 metres/3 1/4 yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down around the neck. Thread 5 beads in each end of the tie. Cut 8 lengths of yarn of 20 cm / 8''. Thread the ends through the end of the tie and fold them double. Twine one of the strand around the top of tassel. Make a tassel the same way in the other end of tie.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS, P from RS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (94)

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

Holaaaa!!!! Este patrón es talla única? Porque sólo sale montar 192 pts.

17.08.2023 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Jacqueline, puedes ver en el esquema de medidas debajo que hay 3 tallas para este patrón, pero la abertura del cuello es igual en todas. Por eso, comienzas montando el mismo número de puntos en todas las tallas, pero después se trabaja diferentes largos y anchos dependiendo de la talla deseada (en concreto, el número de veces que trabajas A.4, A.5 y A.6 en vertical).

20.08.2023 - 18:03

country flag Andrea wrote:

Danke fuer die Antwort. Leider komme ich, wenn ich A2 u A7 zweimal sowie A6, A5 und A4 einmal in der Höhe gestrickt hab nur auf 182 Maschen. Irgendwas mach ich falsch 😔

20.03.2023 - 16:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, so stimmt es auch mit der neue Maschen zwischen A.2 und A.7 = mitte A.3 haben Sie jetzt 183 Maschen auf der Nadel. Diagramme stricken Sie noch weiter bis A.3-A.6 ingesamt 6-7-8 Mal in der Höhe gestrickt waren (= 504-568-632 Maschen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.03.2023 - 16:26

country flag Andrea wrote:

Ich kapiers nicht 😢 ich komm nicht auf die Maschenzahl am Beginn des Rundstrickens. Auch nach all den Tips in den Kommentaren und einigen Anläufen.... Ich versteh die Anleitung nicht.

18.03.2023 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, wenn man in Runde strickt, muss man zuerst Faden abschneiden, dann über die 8 Maschen A.7 + die 8 Maschen A.2 stricken Sie jetzt A.3 (8 M A.7 + 1 neue M anschlagen + 8 M A.2), dann stricken Sie die nächsten Diagramme genauso wie zuvor, jetzt lesen Sie alle Diagramme rechts nach links (alle sind Hinreihen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.03.2023 - 09:42

country flag Katharina wrote:

Wieviel Maschen müssen auf der Nadel sein wenn ich A2 und A7 zweimal gestrickt habe und nun zur Runde schließen möchte. Stricke seit fast 40 Jahren. Aber dieses Teil bekomme ich einfach nicht hin. Danke.

11.05.2022 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Katharina, nach 2 Rapporte von A.2 bis A.7 in der Höhe haben Sie 247 Maschen auf der Nadel: A.2=8 M, (A.4=10M, A.5=24 M, A.6=11 M), A.3(=17 m), (A.4=10M, A.5=24 M, A.6=11 M), A.3(=17 m), (A.4=10M, A.5=24 M, A.6=11 M), A.3(=17 m), A.4 (= 10 M), A.5 (=24 M), A.5 (= 11 M), A.7 (= 8 M) = 8+10+24+11+17+10+24+11+17+10+24+11+10+17+24+11+8=247 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.05.2022 - 13:38

country flag Silke Sakic wrote:

Hallo Gerne würde ich diesen Poncho stricken, aber leider lässt sich die Anleitung nicht ausdrucken. Was kann ich tun damit ich die Anleitung bekomme?

07.10.2021 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Sakic, Wahrscheinlich gab es ein Problem mit den Bildern, als Sie mit dem Drucken begannen. Aktualisieren Sie die Seite und prüfen Sie, ob alle Diagramme sichtbar sind, dann versuchen Sie die Anleitung nochmal auszudrucken. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

07.10.2021 - 15:47

country flag Françoise wrote:

Comment dois-je tricoter les mailles envers en rong dans votre modèle 170-25 ? Si je suis le diagramme c'est à l'envers, est-ce exact?

19.04.2021 - 13:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, tout dépend des diagrammes et du moment où vous les tricotez, lorsque vous tricotez en rangs, les cases blanches sont du jersey endroit = à l'envers sur l'envers mais quand vous les tricoterez en rangs = à l'endroit sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

19.04.2021 - 15:12

country flag Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Merci pour votre message, mais ma question était comment tricoter les rangs envers quand on tricote en rond ? Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement

19.04.2021 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, quand vous tricotez en rond, vous êtes toujours sur l'endroit, ainsi vous allez tricoter les mailles jersey à l'endroit - cette vidéo montre comment tricoter du jersey en rond; autrement dit, les rangs pairs des diagrammes A.3, A.4, A.5 et A.6 vont se tricoter à l'endroit (= en rond uniquement). Si vous voulez tricoter du point mousse en rond, vous devez alterner 1 tour endroit, 1 tour envers (cf vidéo). Bon tricot!

19.04.2021 - 13:11

country flag Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Comment dois-je tricoter les rangs envers de A3 A4 A5 et A6 ? Le diagramme indique 1m env sur l'envers, ce serait donc du point mousse. Sommes nous d'accord ? Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement

18.04.2021 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, en tricotant 1 m envers sur l'envers vous obtiendrez du jersey; les rangs envers de A.3, A.4, A.5 et A.6 se tricotent en jersey = tout à l'envers. Les 3 premières mailles de A.3 et les 3 dernières mailles de A.7 se tricotent au point mousse (= à l'endroit sur l'endroit et à l'endroit sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

19.04.2021 - 08:35

country flag Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Dans A9 et A8 comment dois-je tricoter les rangs 34 et 35 ? Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement

04.03.2021 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francoise, 1 m end sur l'endroit, env sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

04.03.2021 - 16:34

country flag Françoise wrote:

Bonjour Dans A8 comment faire une augmentation dans le 6 ème rang puisqu'il n'y a pas de jeté dans le rg précédent. Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement

17.02.2021 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, l'augmentation se fait au 5ème tour de A.8: on fait 1 jeté au début de chaque A.8, on a ainsi 17 mailles endroit dans chaque A.8 au tour suivant (tricotez ce jeté torse pour éviter un trou - les autres jetés de A.8 se tricoteront normalement). Bon tricot!

18.02.2021 - 08:58